It All Started Here: The Gay Legacy of GQ | GQ

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IT ALL STARTED HERE: THE GAY LEGACY OF GQ

How an unknown former mol turned photographer, a gay art director, and a llegiate water polo player om California ed the pag of GQ to refe the Amerin man—and changed forever the look of magaz, photography, and advertisg. * magazine gq gay *

) It was also, not to put too fe a pot on , a much gayer era of GQ.

Jack Haber, the magaze’s edor--chief om 1969 to 1983, was a gay man, as were his two extraordary art directors, Harry Coulianos, who served om 1971 to 1980, and Donald Sterz, who started out as one of Coulianos’s puti and eventually succeed him, nng the partment until late was not explicly a gay magaze, and s mandate, fact, was to te men of all persuasns about fashn and style. But the gay sensibily was unmistakable: the recurrence of the word gged headl; the prcient tert mimalist home r; the “Every Night Fever” dis-stomp pictorial om 1978, wh mols Capezs dancg a parkg lot illumated by the headlights of Lln the magaze self was no joke; GQ took s mandate serly. In this regard, GQ was way out ont, an archetypal example of the gay mory blazg a trail for the schlumpy mastream.

STUDY: 'GQ' IS THE GAYT MAGAZE EVER

If you're anythg like , you often wonr what magaz have the gayt rearships. Thankfully, Fairchild's DNR got hold of the rearch this week, and told . (On Monday. None of you saw this and uld pass on before now? J, people.) * magazine gq gay *

“He had a theory that any hotel, there was a gay person [on staff], and that gay person was a nnectn to where to go the cy. So the first thg Harry did when he walked to a hotel was fd that gay person. In 1977, Michael Iv was a blond, tole-haired English major at Yale who rowed crew and stood six feet two, spendg the summer between his hman and sophomore years patg ho on Martha’s Veyard.

” Aquilon and Iv were soon gods the fashn firmament—hetero llege boys who’d stumbled to stardom as gay ins. In this perd, GQ took on a social signifince that s creators uld not have anticipated—as a “d lifele to so many of the hterlands, ” as the Mississippiborn gay memoirist Kev Ssums puts .

MASCULY ISN'T JT FOR CIS, STRAIGHT GUYS—AND MEN'S MAGS ARE FALLY CATCHG ONPUBLITNS LIKE "GQ" AND "MEL" ARE EXPANDG THEIR FN OF "MEN'S NTENT."{FONT:NORMAL 800 1.2REM/1.2 "D BOLD",SANS-SERIF;TEXT-TRANSFORM:NORMAL;LOR:HER;DISPLAY:LE-BLOCK;PADDG-BOTTOM:6PX;POSN:RELATIVE;TEXT-TRANSFORM:UPPERSE;}{BACKGROUND:#89308A;BOTTOM:0;NTENT:'';DISPLAY:BLOCK;HEIGHT:2PX;LEFT:0;POSN:ABSOLUTE;RIGHT:0;-WEBK-TRANSN:ALL 0.2S EASE;TRANSN:ALL 0.2S EASE;WIDTH:100%;}{LEFT:51%;RIGHT:51%;WIDTH:0;}{FONT:NORMAL 800 1.2REM/1.2 "D BOLD",SANS-SERIF;TEXT-TRANSFORM:NORMAL;LOR:HER;DISPLAY:LE-BLOCK;PADDG-BOTTOM:6PX;POSN:RELATIVE;TEXT-TRANSFORM:UPPERSE;}{BACKGROUND:#89308A;BOTTOM:0;NTENT:'';DISPLAY:BLOCK;HEIGHT:2PX;LEFT:0;POSN:ABSOLUTE;RIGHT:0;-WEBK-TRANSN:ALL 0.2S EASE;TRANSN:ALL 0.2S EASE;WIDTH:100%;}{LEFT:51%;RIGHT:51%;WIDTH:0;}CULTUREBY SAM MANZELLAOCTOBER 23, 2019/8:06 {HEIGHT:HER;DISPLAY:-WEBK-BOX;DISPLAY:-WEBK-FLEX;DISPLAY:-MS-FLEXBOX;DISPLAY:FLEX;POSN:RELATIVE;-WEBK-FLEX-WRAP:WRAP;-MS-FLEX-WRAP:WRAP;FLEX-WRAP:WRAP;-WEBK-ALIGN-EMS:CENTER;-WEBK-BOX-ALIGN:CENTER;-MS-FLEX-ALIGN:CENTER;ALIGN-EMS:CENTER;-WEBK-BOX-PACK:CENTER;-WEBK-JTIFY-NTENT:CENTER;-MS-FLEX-PACK:CENTER;JTIFY-NTENT:CENTER;-WEBK-TRANSFORM-ORIG:CENTER;-MS-TRANSFORM-ORIG:CENTER;TRANSFORM-ORIG:CENTER;} IMG{HEIGHT:100%;WIDTH:100%;OBJECT-F:VER;}{HEIGHT:1080PX;WIDTH:1920PX;}GQ/MEL MAGAZE/COMPOSE BY SAM MANZELLABY SAM MANZELLAOCTOBER 23, 2019 / 8:06 AM{"@NTEXT":","@TYPE":"NEWSARTICLE","HEADLE":"MASCULY ISN'T JT FOR CIS, STRAIGHT GUYS—AND MEN'S MAGS ARE FALLY CATCHG ON","THUMBNAILURL":","DATEPUBLISHED":"2019-10-23T12:06:09.000+0000","DATEMODIFIED":"2019-10-23T12:06:09.000+0000","IMAGE":{"@NTEXT":","@TYPE":"IMAGEOBJECT","URL":","WIDTH":1920,"HEIGHT":1080},"URL":","THOR":{"@TYPE":"ORGANIZATN","NAME":"LOGO TV"},"MAENTYOFPAGE":{"@TYPE":"WEBPAGE","@ID":"},"PUBLISHER":{"@TYPE":"ORGANIZATN","@ID":","NAME":"LOGO TV","URL":","LOGO":{"@TYPE":"IMAGEOBJECT"}},"CREATOR":"SAM MANZELLA","KEYWORDS":"OPN","ARTICLESECTN":"CULTURE"}{BOX-SIZG:BORR-BOX;PADDG:24PX 0;} A{LOR:#354A4E;-WEBK-TEXT-RATN:UNRLE;TEXT-RATN:UNRLE;} A:HOVER, A:FOC{-WEBK-TEXT-RATN:NONE;TEXT-RATN:NONE;} B, STRONG{FONT-WEIGHT:700;}IT'S NOT EVERY DAY THAT A PROMENT MEN'S MAGAZE CLUS A NONBARY, TRANS MASCULE ACTOR S CENTERFOLD, SO WHEN BILLNS STAR ASIA KATE DILLON POPPED UP ONT AND CENTER GQ'S RECENTLY UNVEILED "NEW MASCULY" ISSUE, MY QUEER HEART STARTED RACG WH GLEE. QUEER WOMEN AND GENR-NONNFORMG PEOPLE HAVE TOYED WH MASCULE PRENTATN—SPORTG SHORT HAIRCUTS, WEARG "MEN'S" CLOTHG, ADOPTG "BUTCH" MANNERISMS—FOR CENTURI. SEEG THAT LEGACY REFLECTED BY NTEMPORARY LGBTQ CELEBRI A MASTREAM MAG THAT'S PROMENTLY ON DISPLAY SHOPS, AIRPORTS, AND ON LTLE SCREENS NATNWI WAS {BOX-SIZG:BORR-BOX;PADDG:24PX 0;} A{LOR:#354A4E;-WEBK-TEXT-RATN:UNRLE;TEXT-RATN:UNRLE;} A:HOVER, A:FOC{-WEBK-TEXT-RATN:NONE;TEXT-RATN:NONE;} B, STRONG{FONT-WEIGHT:700;}GQ'S NOVEMBER ISSUE IS THE FIRST OF S KD FOR THE PUBLITN, WHICH DAT ALL THE WAY BACK TO THE 1930S, WHEN WAS STILL WILY KNOWN AS GENTLEMAN'S QUARTERLY. IN HIS LETTER THAT OPENS , EDOR CHIEF WILL WELCH WR ABOUT WHY HE FELT THE NEED TO PUT TOGETHER AN ENTIRE ISSUE DITED TO THE IA OF A "NEW MASCULY." HE RELLS A FEMALE IEND RPONDG TO THE NEWS THAT HE'D BE HELMG THE MAG WH TREPIDATN, PECIALLY THE WAKE OF THE #METOO MOVEMENT, WHICH WENT VIRAL 2017:{BOX-SIZG:BORR-BOX;PADDG:24PX 0;} A{LOR:#354A4E;-WEBK-TEXT-RATN:UNRLE;TEXT-RATN:UNRLE;} A:HOVER, A:FOC{-WEBK-TEXT-RATN:NONE;TEXT-RATN:NONE;} B, STRONG{FONT-WEIGHT:700;}SHE WAS RIGHT, OF URSE. IT WAS AND IS A PRER MOMENT. …SO THE SENTIAL QUTN THAT THE TEAM AND I HAVE BEEN NONTG DURG OUR FIRST YEAR THIS NEW ERA AT GQ IS: HOW DO YOU MAKE A SO-LLED MEN'S MAGAZE THE THICK OF WHAT HAS JTIFIABLY BEE THE SHUT UP AND LISTEN MOMENT?{BOX-SIZG:BORR-BOX;PADDG:24PX 0;} A{LOR:#354A4E;-WEBK-TEXT-RATN:UNRLE;TEXT-RATN:UNRLE;} A:HOVER, A:FOC{-WEBK-TEXT-RATN:NONE;TEXT-RATN:NONE;} B, STRONG{FONT-WEIGHT:700;}PHARRELL ON THE VER OF GQ'S "NEW MASCULY" {BOX-SIZG:BORR-BOX;PADDG:24PX 0;} A{LOR:#354A4E;-WEBK-TEXT-RATN:UNRLE;TEXT-RATN:UNRLE;} A:HOVER, A:FOC{-WEBK-TEXT-RATN:NONE;TEXT-RATN:NONE;} B, STRONG{FONT-WEIGHT:700;}GQ'S GURAL "NEW MASCULY" ISSUE CLUS TERVIEWS WH LGBTQ CELEBRI LIKE DILLON, BIG MOUTH'S JABOIE YOUNG-WHE, STAND-UP IC HANNAH GADSBY OF NATE FAME, EJ JOHNSON, AND FILTHY LIVG LEGEND JOHN WATERS. WRER SAMUEL HE PENNED A PACKAGE ABOUT THE "GLOR NOW" OF MEN WEARG MAKP, PLETE WH TERVIEWS AND TIPS OM THE LIK OF BILLY IDOL, K-POP STAR JACKSON WANG, AND {BOX-SIZG:BORR-BOX;PADDG:24PX 0;} A{LOR:#354A4E;-WEBK-TEXT-RATN:UNRLE;TEXT-RATN:UNRLE;} A:HOVER, A:FOC{-WEBK-TEXT-RATN:NONE;TEXT-RATN:NONE;} B, STRONG{FONT-WEIGHT:700;}ON THE VER IS PHARRELL, STYLED A SWEEPG, BRIGHTLY LORED PE-SLASH-PUFFER AT. IT'S REMISCENT OF BILLY PORTER'S MANY RED-RPET PE LEWKS, THOUGH A B MORE "MASC" (WE ARE TALKG ABOUT A PUFFER AT, AFTER ALL). STILL, MA ONE CNN BS REPORTER WONR IF GQ IS "STILL A MEN'S MAGAZE," AND POSE THAT EXACT QUTN TO WELCH. HIS RPONSE: ITS REARS ARE ANYONE WH "AN TERT SEEG THE WORLD THROUGH A FILTER OF STYLISHNS."{BOX-SIZG:BORR-BOX;PADDG:24PX 0;} A{LOR:#354A4E;-WEBK-TEXT-RATN:UNRLE;TEXT-RATN:UNRLE;} A:HOVER, A:FOC{-WEBK-TEXT-RATN:NONE;TEXT-RATN:NONE;} B, STRONG{FONT-WEIGHT:700;}TO WELCH'S CRED, THE CHOICE TO CLU A NONBARY PERSON, A BLACK GAY MAN, AND A MASCULE-OF-CENTER LBIAN A MEDATN ON MASCULY DON'T E OFF AS PERFORMATIVE OR OPPORTUNISTIC. IN A TIME WHEN OTHER MEN'S MAGS LIKE ESQUIRE HAVE E UNR FIRE FOR EXAMG WHAT MEANS TO BE A "MAN" AMERI THROUGH THE LENS OF A WHE, CISGENR, HETEROSEXUAL 17-YEAR-OLD (DURG BLACK HISTORY MONTH, NO LS), GQ'S EDORIAL CISN SEEMS LIKE AN APPROPRIATE RPONSE TO A SHIFTG CULTURE. A "SHUT UP AND LISTEN" MOMENT, {BOX-SIZG:BORR-BOX;PADDG:24PX 0;} A{LOR:#354A4E;-WEBK-TEXT-RATN:UNRLE;TEXT-RATN:UNRLE;} A:HOVER, A:FOC{-WEBK-TEXT-RATN:NONE;TEXT-RATN:NONE;} B, STRONG{FONT-WEIGHT:700;}GQ ISN'T THE FIRST MEN'S MAG TO REIMAGE MASCULY, A NCEPT THAT MANY WOMEN AND LGBTQ PEOPLE OFTEN ASSOCIATE WH EP-ROOTED, GENERATNS-SPANNG TOXICY. OTHER PROMENT PUBLITNS HAVE EXPAND THEIR FN OF "MEN'S NTENT" TO CLU LGBTQ MEN AND MASCULE-OF-CENTER {BOX-SIZG:BORR-BOX;PADDG:24PX 0;} A{LOR:#354A4E;-WEBK-TEXT-RATN:UNRLE;TEXT-RATN:UNRLE;} A:HOVER, A:FOC{-WEBK-TEXT-RATN:NONE;TEXT-RATN:NONE;} B, STRONG{FONT-WEIGHT:700;}IN 2015, MEN'S HEALTH PROFILED AYDIAN DOWLG—AN FLUENCER, FNS ENTHIAST, AND TRANSGENR MAN— S ANNUAL "REAL GUYS, REAL ISSUE." DOWLG HAD PETED WH OTHER HUNKY MEN TO BEE THE MAG'S 2015 ULTIMATE GUY. THOUGH HIS BID WAS ULTIMATELY UNSUCCSFUL, HIS APPEARANCE ON S VER—A YEAR AFTER LAVERNE COX BEME THE FIRST TRANSGENR PERSON HISTORY TO VER TIME MAGAZE—MARKED A TURNG POT FOR TRANS REPRENTATN MEN'S MEDIA.MEL {BOX-SIZG:BORR-BOX;PADDG:24PX 0;} A{LOR:#354A4E;-WEBK-TEXT-RATN:UNRLE;TEXT-RATN:UNRLE;} A:HOVER, A:FOC{-WEBK-TEXT-RATN:NONE;TEXT-RATN:NONE;} B, STRONG{FONT-WEIGHT:700;}AN ILLTRATN OM MEL'S "ABOUT" {BOX-SIZG:BORR-BOX;PADDG:24PX 0;} A{LOR:#354A4E;-WEBK-TEXT-RATN:UNRLE;TEXT-RATN:UNRLE;} A:HOVER, A:FOC{-WEBK-TEXT-RATN:NONE;TEXT-RATN:NONE;} B, STRONG{FONT-WEIGHT:700;}SMALLER OUTLETS LIKE MEL MAGAZE, DOLLAR SHAVE CLUB'S DIGAL EDORIAL PLATFORM, ARE ALSO SHAKG THGS UP. BACK 2017, THE NEW YORK TIM' AMANDA HS EMED "THE RARE MEN’S MAGAZE THAT HAS TAKEN UPON SELF TO VTIGATE MASCULY, NOT ENFORCE ." AT MEL, ARTICL LIKE "GETTG TO THE BOTTOM OF BOTTOM CULTURE" ARE RIGHT AT HOME ALONGSI EP DIV TO THE PREVALENCE OF "ASS-EATG" AMONG STRAIGHT MEN. PIEC ADDRSG LGBTQ ISSU OR CENTERG ON QUEER MEN AREN'T RELEGATED TO A SEPARATE VERTIL—OR WORSE, HIDN ANOTHER SECTN OF A NEWSSTAND. THEY MH SEAMLSLY WH THE BULK OF MEL'S {BOX-SIZG:BORR-BOX;PADDG:24PX 0;} A{LOR:#354A4E;-WEBK-TEXT-RATN:UNRLE;TEXT-RATN:UNRLE;} A:HOVER, A:FOC{-WEBK-TEXT-RATN:NONE;TEXT-RATN:NONE;} B, STRONG{FONT-WEIGHT:700;}I BRG UP MEN'S HEALTH, MEL, AND OTHER MEN'S-TERT PUBLITNS NOT TO DIMISH THE VALIDY OF GQ'S "NEW MASCULY" ISSUE. ON THE NTRARY, GQ'S S-LONG HISTORY—AND S PARENT PANY, NEW YORK’S INIC CONDé NAST, WHICH OWNS OTHER PRTIG TL LIKE VOGUE, THE NEW YORKER, AND VANY FAIR—MAK A PIECE OF LEGACY MEDIA. THAT MEANS THE MAGAZE’S EDORIAL CHOIC AREN’T JT DITIVE OF SHIFTS POPULAR CULTURE; THEY’RE EMBLEMATIC OF CHANGG ATTUS PUBLISHG, AN DTRY THAT HAS LONG BEEN (AND ARGUABLY STILL IS) DOMATED BY WHE, CISGENR, HETEROSEXUAL {BOX-SIZG:BORR-BOX;PADDG:24PX 0;} A{LOR:#354A4E;-WEBK-TEXT-RATN:UNRLE;TEXT-RATN:UNRLE;} A:HOVER, A:FOC{-WEBK-TEXT-RATN:NONE;TEXT-RATN:NONE;} B, STRONG{FONT-WEIGHT:700;}PERHAPS GQ SAID BT WH ONE OF S NOVEMBER ISSUE'S HEADL: "MASCULY IS CHANGG—AND CHANGE IS GOOD."{BOX-SIZG:BORR-BOX;CLEAR:BOTH;}{BOX-SIZG:BORR-BOX;MARG:0 TO;WIDTH:90%;M-WIDTH:288PX;MAX-WIDTH:1440PX;M-HEIGHT:194PX;}LATT NEWS

“I’m almost posive the profsor was gay, ” Iv says. ”Yet for all the homoerotic quali of the Weber-Sterz llaboratns, for all the male sk they showed, they somehow had more crossover appeal than the shoots that Coulianos oversaw. as they splashed and guffawed—didn’t necsarily mean that was y time as soon as the shoot a sense, Coulianos’s and Sterz’s artistic outlooks reprented two different rpons to beg gay at a time when Ameri wasn’t very gay-iendly.

Sterz, though he was only five years younger than Coulianos, seemed to be of a later generatn, one that saw to a future when gay men and the gay sensibily didn’t need to be a revealg sectn that he put together for the September 1980 issue, Sterz had Weber shoot mols the cloth of Amerin signers, wh each signer gettg a two-page spread and each spread featurg a quote which the signer articulated his philosophy. I thought he had a wi appeal, beyond straight or gay. ”None of this prevented Sterz and Aquilon om beg fast iends, though—nor did the fact that the former was gay and the latter straight, the former a Democrat and the latter a Republin, the former a nonrelig person and the latter a practicg Christian.

*BEAR-MAGAZINE.COM* MAGAZINE GQ GAY

Study: 'GQ' Is the Gayt Magaze Ever .

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