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Travel</span></div></div></div><h1 data-ttid="ContentHearHed" class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ ContentHearHed-NCyCC iUEiRd lnnhgD gydgrM">How Movg to Zürich Opened My Ey to A World of Acceptance</h1></div><div class="ContentHearAccredatn-lfctVB etVsnJ ntent-hear__accredatn" data-ttid="ContentHearAccredatn"><div class="ContentHearDek-bIqFFZ eA-dOpL">As a New Yorker, I was seekg the eedom I was ed to. In my life Zürich, I found a different versn of .</div><div class="ContentHearByle-kmPyCa emiglw"><div class="ContentHearByleContent-dpPmNn DRFq"><div data-ttid="BylWrapper" class="BylWrapper-KIudk irTIfE byl ContentHearByl-cZqgyJ bHLeKI"><p class="ByleWrapper-jWHrLH cleXoH byle byl__byle" data-ttid="ByleWrapper" emProp="thor" emType="><span emProp="name" class="ByleNamWrapper-jbHncj fuDQVo"><span data-ttid="ByleName" class="ByleName-kwmrLn gsLuGA byle__name"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BylePreamble-iJolpQ iUEiRd jyeccG dttFsx byle__preamble">By </span><a class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BaseLk-eNWuiM ByleLk-gEnFiw iUEiRd dSSAlR dKMOIT bOwDHT byle__name-lk button" href="/ntributor/adam-h-graham">Adam H. 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SocialInExternalLk-huuzOU hrFswe social-ins__lk social-ins__lk--bookmark" data-event-click="{"element":"ExternalLk","outgogURL":"#"}" href="#" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank"><div class="SocialInContaer-huXzUC pMzVC social-ins__in-ntaer"><svg class="SocialInNetworkInComponent-cZaKGz dlOAhZ in in-bookmark" width="35" height="35" viewBox="-12.75 -10.5 35 35" fill="none" xmlns=" bookmarkSiBarLabel="New!"><tle>Save this</tle><path fill-le="evenodd" clip-le="evenodd" d="M0 0h9.588v14.345L4.794 11.46 0 14.345V0zm.673.673v12.482l4.12-2.48 4.122 2.48V.673H.673z" fill="#FFF"></path></svg></div></a></li></ul></div></div><div class="StickyBoxPlaceholr-grPmrg dxAvXx"></div></div></asi></hear></div><div data-attribute-verso-pattern="article-body" class="ArticlePageContentBackGround-cNiFNN kAwnHf article-body__ntent"><div class="ArticlePageChunksContent-etcMtP bwyLBj"><div data-ttid="ArticlePageChunks" class="ArticlePageChunks-fLyCVG eOdfIs"><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK kHBDeH grid grid-margs grid-ems-2 ArticlePageChunksGrid-hfxa bjczjj grid-layout--adrail narrow wi-adrail"><div class="GridItem-buujkM stRKV grid--em grid-layout__ntent"><div class="BodyWrapper-kufPGa bmbVTi body body__ntaer article__body" data-journey-hook="client-ntent" data-ttid="BodyWrapper"><div class="body__ner-ntaer"><p><em>This Pri month,</em> <a href=" target="_blank"><em>we are celebratg</em></a> <em>travel's pacy for disvery, renewal, and love through a lens of queerns—and s power to open up ourselv to seeg not jt the world, but also who we are, a new light.</em></p><p>In March 2010, I flew to <a href=" target="_blank">Swzerland</a> om my home of <a href=" target="_blank">New York Cy</a> to wre a story on <a href=" target="_blank">Zürich</a>’s art scene. I’d been to the cy once before and was sort of nonplsed by s squeaky-clean perfectns and one percent-er banker vib, so I wasn’t expectg much om the vis other than seeg some great art and eatg some <a href=" target="_blank">excellent chee</a>. But on that trip, I happened to meet Ralph, a Swiss archect—and slowly, my perceptns of the cy and the untry began to change. </p><div><div class="ConsumerMarketgUnThemedWrapper-iUTMTf jssHut nsumer-marketg-un nsumer-marketg-un--article-mid-ntent" role="prentatn" aria-hidn="te"><div class="nsumer-marketg-un__slot nsumer-marketg-un__slot--article-mid-ntent nsumer-marketg-un__slot---ntent"></div><div class="journey-un"></div></div></div><p>On our send meetg durg that vis, Ralph threw me on the back of his Vpa and we buzzed around town on a tour of Zürich’s stere, anti-Baroque archecture, which clud landmark works by <a data-offer-url=" class="external-lk" data-event-click="{"element":"ExternalLk","outgogURL":"" href=" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Le Corbier</a>, <a data-offer-url=" class="external-lk" data-event-click="{"element":"ExternalLk","outgogURL":"" href=" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Foster</a>, <a data-offer-url=" class="external-lk" data-event-click="{"element":"ExternalLk","outgogURL":"" href=" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Calatrava</a>, and <a data-offer-url=" class="external-lk" data-event-click="{"element":"ExternalLk","outgogURL":"" href=" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Shige Ban</a>. On other dat, he showed me his favore Cordon Bl rtrant, took me to his lol Zürich badi—lidos that le Zurich’s lake, nal, and rivers—and brought me to some off-the-radar neighborhoods largely ignored by travel guis. By the end of the vis, I had two brand new lov—Ralph and Zürich. </p><div class="Contaer-bkChBi byNLHx"></div><p>For the next three years, Ralph and I were a long-distance relatnship—him jog me <a href=" target="_blank">Boem Hill</a>, my Brooklyn neighborhood, every few months, and me flyg to <a href=" target="_blank">Europe</a> on work assignments, always slippg Zürich to the erary. Up until then, I’d loved where I lived and uldn’t see myself livg anywhere else, but wh each vis, the untry tugged at my heart and softened my gff New York edg. </p><div class="AdWrapper-dQtivb fZrssQ ad ad---ntent"><div class="ad__slot ad__slot---ntent" data-no-id="j1jicg"></div></div><p>Every long-distance relatnship reach that evable crossroads where one person has to move or the relatnship ends. We cid was time for me to get Swissed, though I would ntue to vote and pay tax the U.S. and mata dual cizenship. So, whout lookg back, and wh ten years of New York me, I said “goodbye to all that” as Joan Didn famoly said. For me “that” meant my closet-sized room <a href=" target="_blank">Brooklyn</a>, the perpetually tardy F Tra, which I’d grown creasgly bter about, and a ton of irreplaceable iends who, all honty, were the only thg keepg me gog. I would soon parachute to high-functng Heidiland wh s dreamy <a href=" target="_blank">snow-pped peaks</a>, thermal baths, and hyper-punctual tras and trams. M the iends, was hard to feel sad about .</p><div data-attr-viewport-monor="le-recirc" class="le-recirc-wrapper le-recirc-observer-target-1 viewport-monor-anchor"></div><p>This was back 2013, before same-sex marriage laws passed eher of our untri. Fortunately, registered partnerships were available Swzerland. It was the only untry where same-sex unns passed by a voter referendum stead of beg forced by the ernment or high urt, so I was able to move there wh a “fay rnn visa.” </p></div></div></div><div class="GridItem-buujkM fVLMby grid--em grid-layout__asi"><div class="StickyBoxWrapper-jfYB kNleGZ sticky-box"><div class="StickyBoxPrimary-dzWDWL cdhYoN sticky-box__primary"><div class="Contaer-bkChBi byNLHx"></div><div class="AdWrapper-dQtivb fZrssQ ad ad--rail"><div class="ad__slot ad__slot--rail" data-no-id="bjmmee"></div></div><div class="ConsumerMarketgUnThemedWrapper-iUTMTf jssHut nsumer-marketg-un nsumer-marketg-un--display-rail" role="prentatn" aria-hidn="te"><div class="nsumer-marketg-un__slot nsumer-marketg-un__slot--display-rail"></div><div class="journey-un"></div></div></div><div class="StickyBoxPlaceholr-grPmrg dxAvXx"></div></div></div></div><div class="RowWrapper-UmqTg HEhan full-bleed-ad row-mid-ntent-ad"><div class="StickyMidContentAdWrapper-fSBzwl drzyIa ad-stickymidntent"><div class="AdWrapper-dQtivb fZrssQ ad ad--mid-ntent should-hold-space"><div class="ad__slot ad__slot--mid-ntent" data-no-id="vmad99"></div></div></div></div><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK kHBDeH grid grid-margs grid-ems-2 ArticlePageChunksGrid-hfxa bjczjj grid-layout--adrail narrow wi-adrail"><div class="GridItem-buujkM stRKV grid--em grid-layout__ntent"><div class="BodyWrapper-kufPGa bmbVTi body body__ntaer article__body" data-journey-hook="client-ntent" data-ttid="BodyWrapper"><div class="body__ner-ntaer"><p>I soon realized that perceptns of my birth untry and my new adopted untry were nflict wh one another. Before leavg, my gay Amerin iends exprsed ncern that I was movg om <a href=" target="_blank">queer-iendly</a> New York to what they lled racist and tolerant Swzerland. And after arrivg, my new gay Swiss iends asked me what was like to grow up and live a racist, tolerant untry like the Uned Stat. Inhabg two untri, I learned, was like havg two children. You would always love and fend both, even if you didn’t agree wh everythg they did.  </p><p>The tth was, there was still room for improvement wh many LGBTQ+ issu Swzerland, but seemed like a fair and reasonable alpe sensibily dictated thgs Swzerland. And I weled that. Soon, I started learng Swiss German, and began my new life this small, quadrilgual European untry that li at the heart of the EU, but is not officially a part of . </p><p>“What is this weird exclave shire I moved to?” I often wonred my first few weeks. Public cy fountas flowed wh drkable alpe water. Trams and tras were extremely punctual, as were people. Ridg my bike wasn’t a near-ath experience. Everyone, everywhere offered you a ffee wh a cholate or biscu. And tst levels were unbelievably high. A visg iend left his laptop on the tra, which was promptly returned to lost and found. Back New York, I was so ured to the MTA, I had felt lucky when the F tra showed up. </p><p>Like many visors who fixate on Zürich’s wealth and cleanls, I had grossly unrtimated this surprisgly diverse cy. I had also been nervo about movg om such a major cy where beg a gay man was tolerated unequivolly to a smaller one where I wasn’t sure what to expect. So, I was pecially pleased to disver that Zürich’s gay scene was not only pecially vibrant and varied, but I felt even safer here than I did New York Cy. Here, gay men gather at <a data-offer-url=" class="external-lk" data-event-click="{"element":"ExternalLk","outgogURL":"" href=" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Seebad Utoquai,</a> <a data-offer-url=" class="external-lk" data-event-click="{"element":"ExternalLk","outgogURL":"" href=" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Strandbad Tiefenbnnen</a>, or the scffy, clothg-optnal Werdsel, pecially popular wh a pierced, tattooed, nudist queer crowd siar to Germany’s FKK scen. There is a RuPl Drag Race gatherg every Friday at <a data-offer-url=" class="external-lk" data-event-click="{"element":"ExternalLk","outgogURL":"" href=" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Cranberry Bar,</a> a vibrant gay pri para, and subversive leather bars, <a data-offer-url=" class="external-lk" data-event-click="{"element":"ExternalLk","outgogURL":"" href=" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Kweer Ball events,</a> <a data-offer-url=" class="external-lk" data-event-click="{"element":"ExternalLk","outgogURL":"" href=" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">gay hikg clubs,</a> <a data-offer-url=" class="external-lk" data-event-click="{"element":"ExternalLk","outgogURL":"" href=" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">sports teams</a>, and <a data-offer-url=" class="external-lk" data-event-click="{"element":"ExternalLk","outgogURL":"" href=" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">choral groups</a>.  Zürich, turned out, was no ls gay—or gay-iendly—than New York. </p><p>Sce my move here, we have seen full gay marriage pass both of our untri. I feel grateful that we e om two untri where we’ve seen many LGBTQ+ victori. But like many gays my age, I now fear I will live to see a reversal of those rights. I pecially worry about this the Uned Stat. </p><p>In the <a data-offer-url=" class="external-lk" data-event-click="{"element":"ExternalLk","outgogURL":"" href=" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">2023 LGBTQ+ Travel Safety Inx by Asher & Lyric</a> many untri actually beme safer for gay travelers. Swzerland stayed the same, but the US dropped five plac the last two years and is no longer the top 20 saft statns for gay travelers.  “The rights of LGBTQ the Uned Stat seem to be a nstant, ntroversial polil talkg pot wh a particular emphasis on the transgenr muny right now,” says Asher Fergson, publisher of the list. Discrimatn protectns are not guaranteed natnwi, and bate about LGBTQ+ schools has tensified. “It's hard for our LGBTQ+ iends to feel safe when their inty and rights are often a nversatn that sparks a lot of anger,” he ntu.</p><p>As a <a href=" target="_blank">gay traveler</a>, ed to be very temptg for me to pare one place’s eedom to another, but seldom giv an accurate picture of eher place and s idsyncrasi. Movg somewhere for love may not, eher, but has allowed me to unrstand how two radilly different plac n each offer their own versns of eedom. And that sometim tak a journey to unrstand that. </p><div data-attr-viewport-monor="le-recirc" class="le-recirc-wrapper le-recirc-observer-target-2 viewport-monor-anchor"></div><p><em>For more queer love stori, head</em> <a href=" target="_blank"><em>here</em></a><em>.</em></p></div></div></div><div class="GridItem-buujkM fVLMby grid--em grid-layout__asi"><div class="StickyBoxWrapper-jfYB jxBcTH sticky-box"><div class="StickyBoxPrimary-dzWDWL cdhYoN sticky-box__primary"><div class="AdWrapper-dQtivb fZrssQ ad ad--rail"><div class="ad__slot ad__slot--rail" data-no-id="aeoea"></div></div><div class="ConsumerMarketgUnThemedWrapper-iUTMTf jssHut nsumer-marketg-un nsumer-marketg-un--display-rail" role="prentatn" aria-hidn="te"><div class="nsumer-marketg-un__slot nsumer-marketg-un__slot--display-rail"></div><div class="journey-un"></div></div></div><div class="StickyBoxPlaceholr-grPmrg dxAvXx"></div></div></div></div></div><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK kHBDeH grid grid-margs grid-ems-2 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class="ntaer--body-ner"></div></div></div></div></div></div></article><div class="ContentFooterWrapper-jVNdRG dTJkpP ArticlePageContentFooterGrid-ccsXYy eMZRHU article-body__footer"><div class="RowWrapper-UmqTg HEhan"><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK kHBDeH grid grid-margs grid-ems-2 grid-layout--adrail narrow wi-adrail"><div class="GridItem-buujkM stRKV grid--em grid-layout__ntent"></div></div></div><div class="RowWrapper-UmqTg HEhan"><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK kHBDeH grid grid-margs grid-ems-2 grid-layout--adrail narrow wi-adrail"><div class="GridItem-buujkM stRKV grid--em grid-layout__ntent"><div data-ttid="TagCloudWrapper" class="TagCloudWrapper-gGgndx hFhOV ContentFooterTagCloud-krQmRG ZLGh"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ TagCloudSectnHear-cOforY iUEiRd fCShZo kQQRmu">Topics</span><a href="/tag/lgbtq" class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BaseLk-eNWuiM TagCloudLk-kvjZFu iUEiRd dSSAlR jDVxPo hIhJOI"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ TagCloudName-eAUnLd iUEiRd gkRRez bUkXwu">LGBTQ+</span></a><a href="/tag/personal-says" class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BaseLk-eNWuiM TagCloudLk-kvjZFu iUEiRd dSSAlR jDVxPo hIhJOI"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ TagCloudName-eAUnLd iUEiRd gkRRez bUkXwu">Personal Essays</span></a></div></div></div></div><div class="SummaryCollectnSplColumnsWrapper-brYHwL jErenc" data-ttid="SummaryCollectnSplColumnsWrapper"><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK eRggVV grid grid-margs grid-ems-3 SummaryCollectnSplColumnsItems-fCxpTe XVuIS"><div class="GridItem-buujkM kCoLmU grid--em"><div class="SummaryCollectnSplColumnsRecsWrapper-beiXmQ hkCXjM"><p>Remend </p><div class="SummaryItemWrapper-iwvBff iFzeAq summary-em summary-em--has-borr summary-em--no-in summary-em--text-align-left summary-em--layout-placement-text-below summary-em--layout-posn-image-left summary-em--layout-proportns-50-50 summary-em--si-by-si-align-center summary-em--si-by-si-image-right-mobile-false summary-em--standard SummaryCollectnSplColumnsItem-gsxSgt hVKZas" role="button" tabx="0"><div class="SummaryItemAssetContaer-gwhFFH VOyg summary-em__asset-ntaer"><a class="SummaryItemImageLk-dshqxb cPpCwE summary-em__image-lk summary-em-trackg__image-lk" href="/hotels/swzerland/zurich/br--lac-zurich" aria-hidn="te" tabx="-1" data-ponent-type="recirc-river" data-recirc-pattern="summary-em" target="_self"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW kGxnNB rponsive-asset SummaryItemRponsiveAsset-hjGIGg egpoQR summary-em__image"><div data-tt="aspect-rat-ntaer" class="AspectRatContaer-bJHpJz gKnDpj"><div class="aspect-rat--overlay-ntaer"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa SummaryItemRponsiveAsset-hjGIGg egpoQR summary-em__image rponsive-image"><noscript><source media="(max-width: 767px)" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w" siz="100vw"/><source media="(m-width: 768px)" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w" siz="100vw"/><img alt="Br Lac" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY 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SummaryItemDekReadMore-dYSxLZ iUEiRd jTGlfO gFHNmg bLgqyX summary-em__k--readmore-lk">Read full review</a></div></div><div class="SummaryItemWrapper-iwvBff iFzeAq summary-em summary-em--has-borr summary-em--no-in summary-em--text-align-left summary-em--layout-placement-text-below summary-em--layout-posn-image-left summary-em--layout-proportns-50-50 summary-em--si-by-si-align-center summary-em--si-by-si-image-right-mobile-false summary-em--standard SummaryCollectnSplColumnsItem-gsxSgt hVKZas" role="button" tabx="0"><div class="SummaryItemAssetContaer-gwhFFH VOyg summary-em__asset-ntaer"><a class="SummaryItemImageLk-dshqxb cPpCwE summary-em__image-lk summary-em-trackg__image-lk" href="/hotels/swzerland/zurich/dolr-grand-zurich" aria-hidn="te" tabx="-1" data-ponent-type="recirc-river" data-recirc-pattern="summary-em" target="_self"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW kGxnNB rponsive-asset SummaryItemRponsiveAsset-hjGIGg egpoQR summary-em__image"><div data-tt="aspect-rat-ntaer" 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class="OverlaySummaryItemContent-ddGOWz fHZSgO"><div data-ttid="ClampWrapper" class="ClampWrapper-kZxfkB hTTNGO clamp"><div class="ClampContent-hilPkr jVhSBH"><div class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ OverlaySummaryItemHed-cljMtD iUEiRd epTlSA cRpZRn">In Spanish Speakg Countri, I Always Challenge Myself to Date the Language</div></div></div><div data-ttid="BylWrapper" class="BylWrapper-KIudk irTIfE byl OverlaySummaryItemByl-bogcUE fjwtNK"><p class="ByleWrapper-jWHrLH eXckhO byle byl__byle" data-ttid="ByleWrapper" emProp="thor" emType="><span emProp="name" class="ByleNamWrapper-jbHncj fuDQVo"><span data-ttid="ByleName" class="ByleName-kwmrLn cYaBaU byle__name"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BylePreamble-iJolpQ iUEiRd jyeccG gnILss byle__preamble">By </span>Richard Man</span></span></p></div></div></a></li><li class="RecircListTextOverlayItem-dLTGJZ cZQSMJ"><a class="OverlaySummaryItemWrapper-jydJgB eETcvP summary-em-trackg__image-lk" data-ponent-type="recirc-river" 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class="ClampWrapper-kZxfkB hTTNGO clamp"><div class="ClampContent-hilPkr jVhSBH"><div class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ OverlaySummaryItemHed-cljMtD iUEiRd epTlSA cRpZRn">Sayg Goodbye to Travel as I Know It—From the Mountas of Bhutan</div></div></div><div data-ttid="BylWrapper" class="BylWrapper-KIudk irTIfE byl OverlaySummaryItemByl-bogcUE fjwtNK"><p class="ByleWrapper-jWHrLH eXckhO byle byl__byle" data-ttid="ByleWrapper" emProp="thor" emType="><span emProp="name" class="ByleNamWrapper-jbHncj fuDQVo"><span data-ttid="ByleName" class="ByleName-kwmrLn cYaBaU byle__name"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BylePreamble-iJolpQ iUEiRd jyeccG gnILss byle__preamble">By </span>Kal Menza</span></span></p></div></div></a></li><li class="RecircListTextOverlayItem-dLTGJZ cZQSMJ"><a class="OverlaySummaryItemWrapper-jydJgB eETcvP summary-em-trackg__image-lk" data-ponent-type="recirc-river" data-recirc-id="em-image-5" data-recirc-pattern="summary-em" href="><span 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class="AspectRatContaer-bJHpJz jgsWEn"><div class="aspect-rat--overlay-ntaer"><noscript><source media="(max-width: 767px)" srcSet="" siz="100vw"/><source media="(m-width: 768px)" srcSet="" siz="100vw"/><img alt="This Is the World's Most Powerful Passport 2023" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src="></noscript></div></div></picture></span><div class="OverlaySummaryItemContent-ddGOWz fHZSgO"><div data-ttid="ClampWrapper" class="ClampWrapper-kZxfkB hTTNGO clamp"><div class="ClampContent-hilPkr jVhSBH"><div class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ OverlaySummaryItemHed-cljMtD iUEiRd epTlSA cRpZRn">This Is the World's Most Powerful Passport 2023</div></div></div><div data-ttid="BylWrapper" class="BylWrapper-KIudk irTIfE byl OverlaySummaryItemByl-bogcUE fjwtNK"><p class="ByleWrapper-jWHrLH eXckhO byle byl__byle" data-ttid="ByleWrapper" emProp="thor" emType="><span emProp="name" class="ByleNamWrapper-jbHncj fuDQVo"><span data-ttid="ByleName" 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