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THE BOYS OF SHJU: IS TOKYO'S GAY DISTRICT DOOMED?

Tokyo's gay scene is 300 bars and clubs packed to two blocks, where, perhaps surprisgly an otherwise regimented society, has been anythg go for s. So why, asks our Tokyo rrponnt David McNeill, is the wilst party town g to an end? * japanese gay group *

In districts like Shju Nichōme, Tokyo’s gay neighborhood, Japane and foreign talk, drk, and mgle, long-standg private bars, clubs, drag shows, and on the streets outsi nvenience stor.

Their relatnships most likely varied greatly by suatn and across time perds, but a typil nanshoku pairg rporated many dimensns: mentorship and stewardship, platonic iendship, as well as physil acts of homosexual sex.

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The practice only began to fa wh the Meiji Rtoratn the late 1800s, when scty om the Wt led to a refg of homosexualy and heterosexualy Japane society. While historil pictns of Nobunaga and Ranma sometim fully portray them as gay lovers, we mt be reful to separate historic nanshoku and the figur there om LGBTQ issu today, and to avoid mornizg norms of that era to f our ncept of sexualy and romance. We n fer queer people have always existed, and that some practners of nanshoku—perhaps cludg Nobunaga and Ranma—might have self-intified as queer or gay if displaced to our morn time wh our morn fns, although we nnot know for sure.

His 1959 film Sekishuncho, or Farewell to Sprg, picts timate and emotnal relatnships between s male characters, and is often regnized as “Japan’s first gay film.

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In addn to his homoerotic wrg, Mishima was reported to have vised gay bars and to have had an affair wh wrer Jiro Fhima. On the si, he moonlighted as a bar owner, gay magaze edor, sger, actor, and pornographer.

He’s also openly gay, a drag queen, and a survivor of one of the atomic bombs. The above is far om a prehensive list of all the queer, gay, and transgenr people who have played a part shapg Japan’s LGBTQ legacy. Only the lobby, cheerily adorned wh scen om a sex movie that pict a portly pany print beg diligently serviced by a young apprentice, do bee clear that this is one of Asia's biggt gay the ticket mache – 2, 600 yen (about £18) for a 13-hour stay – and pretty much anythg go, say guts who e om across Japan, and even abroad, to sample s treats.

"This is a untry that happily liv wh ntradictns, " says Taq Otsa, thor of several books on Japan's gay scene.

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" Th, Tokyo, a cy wh a reputatn as one of the most uptight, buttoned-down pals, also boasts, s Shju district, one of the world's nst and most diverse ncentratn of gay bars and clubs: the Ni-chome (pronounced "nee-chomay") area. "But, roughly half a century sce emerged as a refuge for homosexuals what was formerly a red-light district, the block is cle.

The lol mercial anisatn that promot Ni-chome timat that the number of gay bars the area has fallen by at least a third the past . The once exclively male gay clientele is filled out at the weekends wh the straight, the female and the simply cur.

"Are gays vanishg om Shju Ni-chome!?, " wonred one of the untry's most popular magaz recently.

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He c the 2004 closure of the famo gay magaze Barazoku after 33 years as a key moment. "Ftgly, perhaps, as he shouts over the noise of the dis, Gloria Gaynor's great gay anthem "I Will Survive" poundg out of the partly mirrors the chang Japan's gay culture. "Though blighted by the typil agoni of personal inty and need for secrecy, gays and lbians Japan neverthels did not suffer the same outright reprsn as those other parts of the world.

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Discrimatn Bra and the US, at least until the 1960s, was "horrendo", pots out Mark McLelland, a UK-born amic and thor of Homosexualy Morn Japan: Cultural Myths and Social Reali. "While Brish ps were still btg men public parks, Japan didn't even have an anti-sodomy law, nor what McLelland lls the "anti-homosexual rage" of many Christian cultur, the lethal fuel for homophobia and the "hyper-vlence" of gay-bashg cints.

"But if Japan was more laid-back about s sexual preferenc, also lacked the polil and social isson that helped transform the liv of homosexuals elsewhere. Gayns was, and is still, largely seen as a personal liftyle choice, not somethg to be flnted or argued over on the streets and parliament. Otsa says he sometim looked wh envy at the battl for gay equaly other parts of the world.

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"It seemed very extreme and ighteng, but I admired how you uld shout your inty om the rooftops, and tell everyone that you were a gay relatnship. But progrs has been tortuoly slow, and many gays and lbians are still livg a lie, says David Wagner, a bs nsultant and 24-year veteran of the Ni-chome district.

The Sydney gay para has maybe 500, 000 people marchg every year – Tokyo has maybe 3, 000, when happens.

'"Homosexuals are still not legally regnised Japane civil law, civil unns are prohibed and there is, as yet, not a sgle openly gay law-maker or proment bs person, adms Kanako Otsuji. A lbian activist, 2007 she ran as the untry's first openly gay ndidate a natnal electn, after publishg her bgraphy Comg Out. "Ined, young gays hoppg om club to bar around Ni-chome fd bewilrg Otsuji's stggl to change society, or force to acknowledge their sexualy; one reason, perhaps, why she me near the bottom of the 2007 poll.

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