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After beg oted om the U.S. ary for beg gay, she beme an early fighter for gay rights and a proment figure the nascent L.G.B.T.Q. rights movement. * gay and lesbian apparel *
By the eighteenth century, many ci Europe had veloped small but secret homosexual subcultur.
London's homosexual subculture was based around ns and public ho where "molli" ngregated. Male homosexuals ntued to cross-drs both public and private spac throughout the neteenth century.
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In the 1920s, the Harlem drag balls offered a safe space for gay men (and lbians) to cross-drs. Cross-drsg performers, monly known as drag queens, ed women's cloth to parody straight society and create a gay humor. The tradn has been rried on by gay drag performers such as Amerin performers Dive and RuPl and Brish televisn star Lily Savage.
Overt gay men, who did not want to go so far as to cross-drs, sometim adopted the most obv signifiers of female mannerisms and drs: plucked eyebrows, rouge, eye makp, peroxi blond hair, high-heeled Women's Sho blo. Adoptg such an appearance was dangero, for was risky to be overtly homosexual. Drsg as a "flamg queen" was a means of enterg to the subculture of gay society.
The adoptn of effemate drs s began to wane wh the rise of gay liberatn, but has ntued to play a role gay life.
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The illegaly of homosexualy and the moral disapproval that attracted forced gay men and lbians to live virtually visible liv the first part of the twentieth century.
Up until the gay liberatn movement of the late 1960s, the most important crern of drsg public, for the mass of gay men and lbians, was to be able to "pass" as heterosexual.
Ined, the lor green had been associated wh the effemate and sometim sodomil maronis of the 1770s and ntued to have gay associatns clothg through the first part of the twentieth century. " Other signifiers for gay men clud a red necktie (worn New York Cy before World War II) and sue sho (one of the most ternatnal and endurg gay signifiers). Durg the "menswear revolutn" of the 1960s, the associatn of fashn and homosexualy began to dimish.
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Carnaby Street fashns were ially sold to a gay "theatril and artistic" clientele by a former physique photographer by the name of Vce om a shop near Carnaby Street. " worn primarily by gay men, was sold om "boutiqu" Greenwich Village, New York, and Wt Hollywood Los Angel. Gay Men and Masculy.
By the late 1960s, lbians and gay men throughout the Wtern world had begun to qutn their posn as send-class cizens and their stereotype as effemate "queens" or "butch dyk. " Along wh the mands for equaly and regnn, lbians and gay men began to addrs their appearance.
There had always been gay men who drsed a nventnally mascule style, but the early 1970s, gay men New York and San Francis looked to the epom of Amerin masculy-the wboy, the lumberjack, the nstctn worker-for spiratn for a new drs style.