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bro-untry sound.</div><div class="ContentHearByle-kmPyCa gvUmxJ"><div class="ContentHearByleContent-dpPmNn DRFq"><div data-ttid="BylWrapper" class="BylWrapper-KIudk irTIfE byl ContentHearByl-cZqgyJ bHLeKI"><p class="ByleWrapper-jWHrLH ivtvgj byle byl__byle" data-ttid="ByleWrapper" emProp="thor" emType="><span emProp="name" class="ByleNamWrapper-jbHncj fuDQVo"><span data-ttid="ByleName" class="ByleName-kwmrLn cYaBaU byle__name"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BylePreamble-iJolpQ iUEiRd jslZfG gnILss byle__preamble">By </span><a class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BaseLk-eNWuiM ByleLk-gEnFiw iUEiRd ggMZaT cXqSTL eErqIx byle__name-lk button" href="/ntributors/ey-nsbm">Ey Nsbm</a></span></span></p></div><time data-ttid="ContentHearPublishDate" dateTime="2023-07-17T06:00:00-04:00" class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ ContentHearPublishDate-eIBicG iUEiRd kYZrFA iINaCX">July 17, 2023</time></div></div></div></div><div class="ContentHearLeadAsset-hGbumP fEknXh lead-asset ContentHearLeadAssetWrapper-hfXHEc Grck lead-asset--width-fullbleed" data-ttid="ContentHearLeadAsset"><figure class="ContentHearLeadAssetContent-kOfYSG dRGWbI"><div class="ContentHearLeadAssetContentMedia-bLEIpi jjhWdS lead-asset__ntent__photo"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW jvZaPI rponsive-asset ContentHearRponsiveAsset-bREgIb hONbnm"><div data-tt="aspect-rat-ntaer" class="AspectRatContaer-bJHpJz eIhPZj"><div class="aspect-rat--overlay-ntaer"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa ContentHearRponsiveAsset-bREgIb hONbnm rponsive-image"><source media="(max-width: 767px)" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w, 960w" siz="100vw"/><source media="(m-width: 768px)" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w, 960w, 1280w, 1600w, 1920w, 2240w" siz="100vw"/><img alt="A man a wboy had stands amid a group of women wgirl hats at NashVegas." class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src="></picture></div></div></span></div></figure></div><div class="ContentHearLeadContentFullWidth-cvJzX hHaBOT"><figure class="ContentHearLeadContentCaptnCred-hSIIqJ kQVfzg"><div class="CaptnWrapper-jSZdqE iTuhkZ ptn ContentHearLeadAssetCaptn-hPWmSN kuCzGS"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ CaptnText-bHjzlu iUEiRd hWyo iXWezO ptn__text">Broadway, formerly a rough neighborhood wh a handful of honky-tonks equented by lols, has bee NashVegas, a strip led wh night clubs named for untry stars.</span><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ CaptnCred-ejegDm iUEiRd iicloT jbIJNS ptn__cred">Photographs by Ashley Gilbertson / VII for The New Yorker</span></div></figure></div></div></hear></div><div data-attribute-verso-pattern="article-body" class="ArticlePageContentBackGround-cNiFNN kbAoLA article-body__ntent"><div class="ActnBarWrapperContent-lasBkU cAHp"><div class="ActnBarWrapperComponent-cjwxLS bEeSLb"><div data-attr-viewport-monor="" class="ActnBarWrapper-dhxmQh kNjTbQ viewport-monor-anchor"><button id="bookmark" 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fill="none" xmlns="><tle>Save this story</tle><path class="in-bookmark-fill" d="M20 23.9508L12.5 19.7312L5 23.9508V2.95081H14V3.93211H6V22.1845L12.5 18.5536L19 22.1845V8.83866H20V23.9508Z"></path><path class="in-bookmark-fill" d="M23 3H20V0H19V3H16V4H19V7H20V4H23V3Z"></path></svg></span><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ ActnBarButtonText-bYXYuh iUEiRd bkefvo gkccfO">Save this story</span></button></div></div></div><div class="LightboxWrapper-dxsWBV hhylRt"><div class="ArticlePageChunksContent-etcMtP imbgVA"><div data-ttid="ArticlePageChunks" class="ArticlePageChunks-fLyCVG lmuXQm"><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK eRggVV grid grid-margs grid-ems-0 ArticlePageChunksGrid-hfxa bDFJoo"><div class="GridItem-buujkM kHPPIF grid--em"><div class="BodyWrapper-kufPGa bDyAMU body body__ntaer article__body" data-journey-hook="client-ntent" data-ttid="BodyWrapper"><div class="body__ner-ntaer"><p class="has-dropp has-dropp__lead-standard-headg">On March 20th, at Nashville’s Bridgtone Arena, a block om the honky-tonks of Lower Broadway, <a href=">Hayley Williams</a>, the lead sger of the pop-punk band Paramore, stmmed a untry-mic rhythm on her guar. A drag queen a ketchup-red wig and gold lamé boots bound onstage. The two began sgg harmony, rehearsg a twangy, r ver of Deana Carter’s playful 1995 femist anthem “<a href=">Did I Shave My Legs for This?</a>”—a twist on a Nashville classic, rema for the moment.</p><p class="paywall">The sger-songwrer Allison Rsell watched them, sg. In jt three weeks, she and a group of like-md untry progrsiv had pulled together “Love Risg,” a benef ncert meant to show ristance to Tennsee’s legislatn targetg L.G.B.T.Q. rints—cludg a law, recently signed by the state’s Republin ernor, Bill Lee, barrg drag acts anywhere that kids uld see them. Stars had texted famo iends; producers had worked for ee. The anizers had even booked Nashville’s largt venue, the Bridgtone—only to have s board, spooked by the risk of breakg the law, nearly ncel the agreement. In the end, they had softened their promotnal language, releasg a poster that said simply, lavenr letters, “<em class="small">a celebratn of life, liberty and the pursu of happs</em>”—no “drag,” no “trans,” no mentn of policy. It was a small promise, Rsell told me, sce their goal was broar and eper than party polics: they need their listeners to know that they weren’t alone dangero tim. There was a Nashville that many people didn’t realize existed, and uld fill the biggt venue town.</p><p class="paywall">The doors were about to open. Backstage, global stars like Sheryl Crow, Alabama Shak’ <a href=">Brtany Howard</a>, and Julien Baker, the Tennsee-born member of the die supergroup <a href=">boygeni</a>, led around alongsi the nonbary untry sger Aem the Artist, who wore a slash of plum-lored lipstick and a beat-up nim jacket. The sger-songwrers Jason Isbell and Amanda Shir walked by, swgg their seven-year-old dghter, Mercy, between them. There were more than thirty performers, many of whom, like Rsell, qualified as Amerina, an umbrella term for untry mic outsi the mastream. In the Amerina universe, Isbell and Shir were big stars—but not on Nashville’s Mic Row, the rporate enge behd the mic on untry rad. It was a divi wi enough that, when Isbell’s biggt solo h, the timate post-sobriety love song “<a href=">Cover Me Up</a>,” was vered by the untry star Man Wallen, many of Wallen’s fans assumed that he’d wrten .</p><p class="paywall">Shir, overwhelmed by the csh backstage, ved me to s wh her her drsg room, where she poured each of a goblet of red we. A Texas-born fiddle player who is a member of the femist supergroup the Highwomen, she had fort-green feathers clumped around her eyelids, as if she were a bird—her own form of drag, Shir joked. Surround by palett of makp, she talked about her ti to the e: her nt is trans, somethg that her grandmother had refed to acknowledge, even on her athbed. Shir’s adopted cy was peril, she told me, and she’d started to thk that more fiant methods might be required the wake of the Tennsee legislature’s recent redistrictg, which amounted to voter supprsn. “Jason, n I borrow you for a mute?” she lled to the anteroom, where Isbell was hangg out wh Mercy. “The gerrymanrg—how do we get past that?”</p><div><div class="ConsumerMarketgUnThemedWrapper-iUTMTf jssHut nsumer-marketg-un nsumer-marketg-un--article-mid-ntent" role="prentatn" aria-hidn="te"><div class="nsumer-marketg-un__slot nsumer-marketg-un__slot--article-mid-ntent nsumer-marketg-un__slot---ntent"></div><div class="journey-un"></div></div></div><p class="paywall">“Lol electns,” Isbell said.</p><figure class="AssetEmbedWrapper-eVDQiB byBkf asset-embed"><div class="AssetEmbedAssetContaer-eJxoAx dBHGoQ asset-embed__asset-ntaer"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW kKwZhx rponsive-asset AssetEmbedRponsiveAsset-cXBNxi eCxVQK asset-embed__rponsive-asset"><div data-attr-viewport-monor="" class="RponsiveCartoonWrapper-iTMMjI eXTYsS rponsive-rtoon AssetEmbedRponsiveAsset-cXBNxi eCxVQK asset-embed__rponsive-asset viewport-monor-anchor"><a class="external-lk rponsive-rtoon__image-lk" data-event-click="{"element":"ExternalLk","outgogURL":"" href=" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa RponsiveCartoonImage-hzNqyc ikeCcH rponsive-rtoon__image rponsive-image"><noscript><img alt="Proud parents sg and takg photo of their child who is drsed like a superhero." class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src=" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w, 960w, 1280w, 1600w" siz="100vw"/></noscript></picture></a><div class="CaptnWrapper-jSZdqE gdZTpI ptn RponsiveCartoonCaptn-dokfdF hJgaLQ rponsive-rtoon__ptn"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ CaptnText-bHjzlu iUEiRd hWyo bsWloa ptn__text">“You guys are g my orig story.”</span></div><div class="CaptnWrapper-jSZdqE iTuhkZ ptn RponsiveCartoonCred-bKlQqO faLAFb rponsive-rtoon__cred"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ CaptnCred-ejegDm iUEiRd iicloT bmQtfn ptn__cred">Cartoon by Dahlia Gall Ramirez</span></div><div class="RponsiveCartoonCTA-eiqqMB iDCQRs"><div class="RponsiveCartoonCTAWrapper-CYIqa iTbFtf"><div class="RponsiveCartoonLkButtonWrapper-hqDAJK eSEhbj"><button aria-label="Copy lk to rtoon" class="BaseButton-bLlsy ButtonWrapper-xCepQ bqVKKv YsOBB button button--primary-pair RponsiveCartoonInButton-hBCBMq lpsjql" data-event-click="{"element":"Button"}" data-ttid="Button" type="button"><span class="ButtonLabel-cjAuJN bBWXSg button__label">Copy lk to rtoon</span><div class="ButtonInWrapper-gFdzAL bPDyTT button__in-ntaer"><svg class="in in-pylk" width="24" height="24" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" xmlns="><tle>Copy lk to rtoon</tle><g clip-path="url(#clip0_3732_178637)"><path fill-le="evenodd" clip-le="evenodd" d="M16.3488 10.5017C16.2107 10.7357 16.2926 11.035 16.5318 11.17C16.7709 11.3052 17.0767 11.225 17.2148 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class="ButtonLabel-cjAuJN bBWXSg button__label">Shop</span><div class="ButtonInWrapper-gFdzAL bPDyTT button__in-ntaer"><svg class="in in-rt" width="24" height="24" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" xmlns="><tle>Shop</tle><g clip-path="url(#clip0_3732_178638)"><path fill-le="evenodd" clip-le="evenodd" d="M4 3H2V4H4.23828L6.99617 15.2631C7.11483 15.6982 7.50998 16 7.96094 16H18.0365C18.4875 16 18.8826 15.6982 19.0013 15.2631L20.9648 7.26312C21.1383 6.62698 20.6594 6 20 6H10V7H20L18.0365 15H7.96094L5.03652 3H4.58055H4ZM10.0365 19C10.0365 19.5523 9.58881 20 9.03652 20C8.48424 20 8.03652 19.5523 8.03652 19C8.03652 18.4477 8.48424 18 9.03652 18C9.58881 18 10.0365 18.4477 10.0365 19ZM11.0365 19C11.0365 20.1046 10.1411 21 9.03652 21C7.93195 21 7.03652 20.1046 7.03652 19C7.03652 17.8954 7.93195 17 9.03652 17C10.1411 17 11.0365 17.8954 11.0365 19ZM18.0365 19C18.0365 19.5523 17.5888 20 17.0365 20C16.4842 20 16.0365 19.5523 16.0365 19C16.0365 18.4477 16.4842 18 17.0365 18C17.5888 18 18.0365 18.4477 18.0365 19ZM19.0365 19C19.0365 20.1046 18.1411 21 17.0365 21C15.932 21 15.0365 20.1046 15.0365 19C15.0365 17.8954 15.932 17 17.0365 17C18.1411 17 19.0365 17.8954 19.0365 19Z" fill="black"></path></g><fs><clipPath id="clip0_3732_178638"><rect width="24" height="24" fill="whe"></rect></clipPath><clipPath id="clip1_3732_178638"><rect width="24" height="24" fill="whe"></rect></clipPath></fs></svg></div></button></div></div></div></span></div></figure><p class="paywall">“You really don’t thk the answer is anarchy?” Shir remarked, bobbg one of her strappy heels like a lure.</p><div data-attr-viewport-monor="le-recirc" class="le-recirc-wrapper le-recirc-observer-target-1 viewport-monor-anchor"></div><p class="paywall">“Well, you know, if you’re the dirtit fighter a fight, you’re gonna w,” Isbell said, dly, slouchg agast the doorame. “You be somebody’s ear off, you’re probably gonna beat ’em. And if there are no l—or if the l keep changg acrdg to whoever won the last fight—you’re fucked. Bee all of a sudn they’re, like, ‘Hey, this guy’s a really good ear ber. <em>Let’s make where you n be ears!</em> ’ ”</p><p class="paywall">That night, the domant emotn at “Love Risg” wasn’t anarchy but reassurance—a theraptic vibe, broken up by pleas to register to vote. Nashville’s mayor, John Cooper, a Democrat, spoke; stars om “RuPl’s Drag Race” showed up via Zoom. The folky Amerina sger Joy Oladokun, who had a “<em class="small">keep hope alive</em>” sticker on their guar, spoke gently about growg up a small town while beg Black and “queer, sort of femme, but not totally the bary.” Jake Wley Rogers, whose sequned su and big yellow glass channelled Elton John, sang a spe-tglg versn of his queer-posive pop anthem “<a href=">Pluto</a>”: “Hate on me, hate on me, hate on me! / You might as well hate the sun / for shg jt a ltle too much.”</p><p class="paywall">Before Aem the Artist performed “<a href=">For Judas</a>,” a wry love song to a man, they summed up the mood nicely, scribg as “a weird juxtaposn of jubilance and fear.” Backstage, however, they stck a bleaker tone: Aem was planng to move to Ptsburgh—“the Paris of Appalachia”—wh their wife and young dghter. In Tennsee, the rent was too high, and the polics too cel. As much as Aem appreciated the solidary of “Love Risg,” they viewed s msage as existentially naïve: as Shir had suggted, the state was already so fully gerrymanred—“hard rved”—that, even if every ally they knew voted, the fix was .</p><p class="paywall">Only one mastream untry star played that night: Maren Morris, a Grammy-wng artist whose breakout 2016 h, “<a href=">My Church</a>,” was an irristible pro-rad anthem that celebrated sgg along your r as a form of “holy remptn.” Morris, who has had hs on terrtrial rad—the regular, non-streamg kd that you listen to on a road trip—was an exceptn to the l of Mic Row, where liberal sgers, even supernovas like <a href=">Dolly Parton</a>, kept their polics d, supportive but soft. Performers who were too mouthy, particularly women, tend to get phed off the Row—and often turned toward the more lenient world of pop, as had happened wh <a href=">Taylor Swift</a>, Kacey Mgrav, and Brandi Carlile (who, along wh Amanda Shir, Natalie Hemby, and Morris, is a member of the Highwomen). Des later, everyone Nashville still spoke whispers about what had happened to the <a href=">Dixie Chicks</a>, 2003, when they got blackballed after speakg out agast the Iraq War.</p><p class="paywall">Morris had recently had a few skirmish onle wh right-wg fluencers—notably, Brtany Alan, the <em class="small">maga</em> wife of the sger Jason Alan. Morris had lled her “Insurrectn Barbie”; rponse, Jason Alan had enuraged a ncert dience to boo Morris’s name. Both sis had sold merch off the clash. The Alans hawked Barbie shirts readg “<em class="small">don’t tread on our kids.</em>” Morris fans uld buy a shirt that read “<em class="small">lunatic untry mic person</em>”—<a href=">Tucker Carlson</a>’s nickname for her—and another bearg the slogan “<em class="small">you have a seat at this table</em>.” (She donated the proceeds to L.G.B.T.Q. chari.) A few months before “Love Risg,” Morris had done an terview wh one of the event’s anizers, Hunter Kelly—a host on Proud Rad, a queer-themed channel on Apple Mic—and had told him that she wanted to be known for her songs, not her Twter clapbacks. But, she add, she wouldn’t apologize for havg polil opns: “I n’t jt be this merch store on the Inter that sells you songs and T-shirts.” Wh the ntext of Nashville, she explaed, “I e across a lot lour than I actually am, bee everyone else is so quiet.”</p><div class="Contaer-bkChBi byNLHx"></div><p class="paywall">Near the end of the ncert, Morris, a pete bte a floor-length tuxedo at wh a ty skirt, sang “<a href=">Better Than We Found It</a>,” a prott song, spired by her newborn son, that she’d wrten after the ath of <a href=">Gee Floyd</a>. Durg her openg banter, she had told a sweet, offhand story about watchg her now three-year-old boy standg awe as drag queens got ready backstage, amid clouds of glter and hair spray. “And, y, I troduced my son to some drag queens today,” Morris add, sassily. “So Tennsee, fuckg <em>arrt</em> me!” The next day, Fox News fixated on the moment.</p></div></div></div></div><div class="RowWrapper-UmqTg HEhan full-bleed-ad row-mid-ntent-ad"><div class="StickyMidContentAdWrapper-fSBzwl drzyIa ad-stickymidntent"><div class="AdWrapper-dQtivb fZrssQ ad ad--mid-ntent should-hold-space"><div class="ad__slot ad__slot--mid-ntent" data-no-id="i1pxp"></div></div></div></div><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK eRggVV grid grid-margs grid-ems-0 ArticlePageChunksGrid-hfxa bDFJoo"><div class="GridItem-buujkM kHPPIF grid--em"><div class="BodyWrapper-kufPGa bDyAMU body body__ntaer article__body" data-journey-hook="client-ntent" data-ttid="BodyWrapper"><div class="body__ner-ntaer"><p class="paywall">After the ncert, Aem’s Realpolik echoed my head. For all s warmth and energy, “Love Risg” hadn’t sold out the Bridgtone Arena. And Aem wasn’t the only one leavg Tennsee: Hunter Kelly was movg to Chigo wh his hband, trated that artists whose work he had celebrated for s, like Parton and Miranda Lambert, weren’t speakg out. That night, I ught a glimpse of the other si of Nashville, down the street, at the honky-tonk bar Legends Corner. A rowdy crowd was dancg and drkg, screamg the lyrics to Toby Keh’s old h “<a href=">Courty of the Red, Whe and Blue</a>”—an ass-kickg, jgoistic number that, twenty years ago, had helped knock the Chicks off the rad.</p><p class="has-dropp has-dropp__lead-standard-headg paywall">You notice certa thgs about a cy when you’re an outsir. There was the way everybody end their scriptn of Nashville the same way: “It’s a small town si a big cy. Everyone knows everyone.” There was the fact that every other Uber driver was a band. There were the pk stor, wh nam like Vow’d, sellg party suppli for bachelorett. Above a ffee shop wh a #BlackLivMatter sign was a tntg billboard flackg a proudly “problematic” weekly. I had origally e to the cy to meet a set of lol sger-songwrers whose prence challenged an dtry long domated by bro untry—slick, hollow songs about tcks and beer, sung by terchangeable whe hunks. This new guard, ma up of female songwrers, Black micians, and queer artists, suggted a new kd of outlawism, expandg a genre that many outsirs assumed was bland and blkered, nservative multiple sens. What I found Nashville was a msier story: a town midway through a bloody metamorphosis, one reflected a stggle over who owned Mic Cy.</p><p class="paywall">Every cy chang. But the transformatn of Nashville—which began a ago, and accelerated exponentially durg the panmic—has stunned the people who love the cy most. “None of this existed,” the mic cric Ann Powers told me, potg out swaths of new nstctn. There had been a btal flood 2010, and early the panmic a tornado had levelled many buildgs, cludg mic stutns like the Basement East. But the nstctn went far beyond rebuildg; was a radil resign, tend to attract a new mographic. In hip East Nashville, ltle ho had been bulldozed to build “tall and skni”—layer-ke buildgs ial for Airbnbs. The Gulch, a once dtrial area where bluegrass fiddlers still meet at the humble Statn Inn, was chockablock wh luxury hotels. Broadway, formerly a rough neighborhood wh a handful of honky-tonks, had bee NashVegas, a strip led wh night clubs named for untry stars. Only tourists went there now. Mayor Cooper, meanwhile, wanted to host the Super Bowl, which meant buildg a domed football stadium big enough for sixty thoand people, which meant that the cy need more parkg lots, more hotels—<em>more</em>.</p><div data-attr-viewport-monor="le-recirc" class="le-recirc-wrapper le-recirc-observer-target-2 viewport-monor-anchor"></div><p class="paywall">This physil renovatn paralleled a polil one. The cy, a blue bubble a red state, had long taken pri s reputatn for racial y, for beg a place where people wh disagreements uld exist: the so-lled Nashville Way. Then, September, 2020, the right-wg provotr Ben Shapiro and his media empire, the Daily Wire, moved om Los Angel, followed by a large posse that clud the onle fluencer <a href=">Candace Owens</a>, who left Washgton, D.C., for the wealthy Nashville suburb of Frankl. This crew, along wh other alt-right figur—the mentator Tomi Lahren, executiv at the social work Parler—joed forc wh <em class="small">maga</em>-iendly untry stars, such as Kid Rock and Jason Alan, who owned clubs on Broadway. Unr Governor Lee, who took office 2019, Tennsee polics were blkg bright red: abortn was sentially banned; gun laws were lax; Moms for Liberty was terraformg school boards. Now the state wanted to ban drag acts and medil re for trans youth. When Nashville’s cy uncil, which leans liberal, refed to host the 2024 Republin Natnal Conventn, Lee vowed payback—and tried to cut the size of the uncil half. A week after the “Love Risg” ncert, a shooter—whose genr inty was ambiguo—murred six people, cludg three children, at a lol Christian school. The gun-ntrol protts that flood the Capol felt like a thartic exprsn of a populatn that was already on edge. At one rally, the untry sger Margo Price played <a href=">Bob Dylan</a>’s “<a href=">Tears of Rage</a>.”</p></div></div></div></div><div class="RowWrapper-UmqTg HEhan"><div class="BodyWrapper-kufPGa RaHuL body ArticlePageBodyGridContaer-jrMoA-d xjuw body__grid-ntaer" data-ttid="BodyWrapper"><div class="GenericCalloutWrapper-tojWn ecxUUd llout--has-top-borr" data-ttid="GenericCallout"><figure class="AssetEmbedWrapper-eVDQiB byBkf asset-embed"><div class="AssetEmbedAssetContaer-eJxoAx dBHGoQ asset-embed__asset-ntaer"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW kGxnNB rponsive-asset AssetEmbedRponsiveAsset-cXBNxi eCxVQK asset-embed__rponsive-asset"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO KhjZz AssetEmbedRponsiveAsset-cXBNxi eCxVQK asset-embed__rponsive-asset rponsive-image rponsive-image--expandable"><noscript><img alt="Aem the Artist said that they were leavg Tennsee the rent was too high and the polics too cel." class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src=" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w, 960w, 1280w, 1600w" siz="100vw"/></noscript></picture></span></div><div class="CaptnWrapper-jSZdqE iTuhkZ ptn AssetEmbedCaptn-fNQBPI fmQnYP asset-embed__ptn"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ CaptnText-bHjzlu iUEiRd hWyo iXWezO ptn__text">Aem the Artist said that they were leavg Tennsee: the rent was too high, and the polics too cel.</span></div></figure></div></div></div><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK eRggVV grid grid-margs grid-ems-0 ArticlePageChunksGrid-hfxa bDFJoo"><div class="GridItem-buujkM kHPPIF grid--em"><div class="BodyWrapper-kufPGa bDyAMU body body__ntaer article__body" data-journey-hook="client-ntent" data-ttid="BodyWrapper"><div class="body__ner-ntaer"><p class="paywall">All through the panmic, newers kept pourg —a thoand a month, by some lculatns. Sometim felt as if California had tilted, sendg refuge rollg eastward like pballs, and although some of the new Nashvillians were wealthy Angelenos fed up wh livg a fire zone, there were more plex attractns. Tennsee had no state e tax, and Nashville had dropped s mask mandate. It was now possible to work om home, so why not try Mic Cy? When Shapiro announced his move, he lled himself “the tip of the spear”—and, if your polics leaned right, Nashville was a magic force, wh the whens of untry mic part of that allure.</p><p class="paywall">For Nashville micians, 2020 beme a dividg le. Big stars died, among them <a href=">John Pre</a>, the flty songwrer, and <a href=">Charley Pri</a>, the genre’s first Black star. Wh tours ncelled and rerdg stalled, artists had time to brood and rensir. Some got sober, others got high, and many people rolled out projects reflectg the volatile natnal mood. After Maren Morris wrote “Better Than We Found It”—which has charged lyrics such as “When the wolf’s at the door all vered blue / Shouldn’t we try somethg new?”—she released a vio featurg imag of Black Liv Matter posters and Nashville Dreamers. Tyler Chilrs, a raw, bluegrass-flected sger-songwrer om ral Kentucky, ma a vio for his song “<a href=">Long Vlent History</a>” which he enuraged poor whe Southerners to view their fat as tied to Breonna Taylor’s. <a href=">Mickey Guyton</a>, jt about the only Black woman on untry rad, released a song lled “<a href=">Black Like Me</a>.” The Dixie Chicks dropped the “Dixie”; Lady Antebellum changed s name to Lady A. Everywhere, cracks were appearg the Nashville Way.</p><p class="paywall">The same year, <a href=">Man Wallen</a>—a native of Sneedville, Tennsee, who had been signed by the bro-untry stutn Big Loud Rerds 2016, when he was twenty-three—got ncelled, briefly. In October, Wallen had been due to perform on “Saturday Night Live,” but after a vio showed him out partyg, vlatn of <em class="small">vid</em> rtrictns, the vatn was revoked. Then, after he apologized and appeared on the show, a send vio emerged, which he ed the N-word. Country rad dropped him; Big Loud spend his ntract; Jason Isbell donated profs om “Cover Me Up”—the song that Wallen had rerd—to the N.A.A.C.P. And then, a perfect verse of what had happened to the Chicks, Wallen’s album “Dangero” shot up the charts. When I asked an Uber driver, a woman her sixti wh a scraped-back ponytail, what mic she liked, she said, “Man Wallen, of urse.” Asked what she thought about the sndal, she said, a clipped voice, “He e back up real quick. They didn’t get him for too long. He’s No. 1 aga.” When she dropped me off, she add, sweetly, “You have a blsed day, Ey.”</p><p class="paywall">Llie Fram, a senr vice-print at Country Mic Televisn and a former rock programmer who moved to Nashville 2011, put plaly to me: Wallen had spl the cy. To some, he was a symbol of Mic Row bigotry; to others, of ristance to a woke world. He’d apologized, sort of, but he hadn’t changed—not changg was a big part of his appeal. There was no nyg his succs, however, or the savvy of his handlers. His songs, startg wh the 2018 h “<a href=">Whiskey Glass</a>,” which opened wh the le “Poor me—pour me another drk!,” were all about the sire to drk the past away. His latt album, “One Thg at a Time,” thirty-six songs ep, wh lyrics by forty-ne wrers—which followed a stand-alone sgle lled “<a href=">Broadway Girls</a>,” a llaboratn wh the trap artist Lil Durk that ntas repeated mentns of Alan’s bar—led the charts. In March, a few weeks before the “Love Risg” ncert, Wallen announced a pop-up ncert at the Bridgtone; set an attendance rerd for the arena. In January, Wallen had headled Governor Lee’s gural banquet.</p><p class="has-dropp has-dropp__lead-standard-headg paywall">When Holly G., a flight attendant, was ground by the panmic, she sank to a prsn. For ne months, she holed up at her mother’s hoe Virgia, soakg bad news. In December, 2020, she found herself watchg a YouTube vio of a shaggy-haired, sweet-faced Man Wallen, seated on a ral porch and croong the song “<a href=">Talk’ Tennsee</a>” to an atic guar: “What you say we grab some tailgate unrneath the stars / Catch a few firefli a moonshe jar.” Holly played the vio on a loop, soothed by s gentlens. “It was what got me out of that funk, listeng to mic,” she told me. “And then, Febary, he was ught sayg the N-word.”</p><p class="paywall">Before 2020, Holly had never thought eply about what meant to be a Black fan of untry mic: was jt a quirky taste that she’d picked up as a kid, watchg vios on CMT. Now the natnal racial reckong had her qutng everythg. Wallen’s behavr felt like a personal betrayal; she’d started readg wily, learng more about the history of untry mic. The genre had started, the early twentieth century, as a multiethnic product of the ral South, mergg the sounds of the Irish fiddle, the Mexin guar, and the Ain banjo. Then, the early twenti, Nashville rad producers spl that mic to tw brands: race rerds, marketed to Black listeners (which beme rhythm and blu and, later, rock and roll), and “hillbilly mic,” which beme untry-and-Wtern. By the time Holly started listeng, the genre had long been d as the voice of the ral whe Southerner, wh a few Black stars, like Pri or Dari Rucker or Kane Brown, as exceptns to the le.</p><p class="paywall">In the sprg of 2021, Holly created a Web se for Black untry fans, Black Opry, hopg to fd like-md listeners. Unexpectedly, she disvered a different group: Black untry artists, a world she knew ls about. Among them was Jett Holn, whose song “<a href=">Taxirmy</a>” was a sthg rponse to hollow onle activism, sung the voice of a murred Black man: “I’ll believe that my life matters to you / When I’m more than taxirmy for your Facebook wall.” Holly beme an activist herself—and then, to her surprise, a promoter, pilg a list of hundreds of performers and bookg them across the untry, as a llective, unr the Black Opry brand. On Twter, she embraced her role as a mischief-maker—and when she moved to Nashville, 2022, she changed her Twter b to “Nash Villa.” By then, she was embedd the polics of Mic Cy, meetg wh executiv at labels and at the Country Mic Hall of Fame. Long-simmerg bat about racial diversy had tensified the Tmp era. At the 2016 C.M.A. Awards, a week before the electn, Beyoncé and the Chicks performed their red-hot untry llaboratn, “<a href=">Daddy Lsons</a>”; Alan Jackson, the tradnalist curmudgeon who popularized the neti anti-pop anthem “<a href=">Murr on Mic Row</a>,” walked out.</p><figure class="AssetEmbedWrapper-eVDQiB byBkf asset-embed"><div class="AssetEmbedAssetContaer-eJxoAx dBHGoQ asset-embed__asset-ntaer"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW kKwZhx rponsive-asset AssetEmbedRponsiveAsset-cXBNxi eCxVQK asset-embed__rponsive-asset"><div data-attr-viewport-monor="" class="RponsiveCartoonWrapper-iTMMjI eXTYsS rponsive-rtoon AssetEmbedRponsiveAsset-cXBNxi eCxVQK asset-embed__rponsive-asset viewport-monor-anchor"><a class="external-lk rponsive-rtoon__image-lk" data-event-click="{"element":"ExternalLk","outgogURL":"" href=" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa RponsiveCartoonImage-hzNqyc ikeCcH rponsive-rtoon__image rponsive-image"><noscript><img 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class="paywall">In January, I vised Holly’s home, East Nashville, where members of Black Opry were gatherg to pregame before headg to Dee’s, a lol mic venue. We sat on an overstuffed uch, and Holly showed me some vios on her TV. One was a song lled “<a href=">Ghetto Country Streets</a>,” by Roberta Lea, a warm, twangy portra of a Southern childhood. (“I n hear my momma say, get your butt outsi and play / And don’t e back until those lights are on.”) We all lghed and swayed to “<a href=">Whatever You’re Up For</a>,” an fect dance-party number by the Kentucky Gentlemen, stylish gay tws who shimmied around a stable wearg leather pants and leopard-prt shirts. The tws had the mercial bop of untry rad, Holly said, but they were a fnal bd. Whe stars often fold trap beats or rap to their songs, but, as the scholar Trsie McMillan Cottom has noted, the mic still unts as untry—’s “hick-hop.” When Black men sg that way, their mic is often characterized as R. & B. or pop. And gay stars—particularly Black gay stars—are a rary, even the wake of a trickster like <a href=">Lil Nas X</a>, who hacked the untry charts 2019, wh “<a href=">Old Town Road</a>.”</p></div></div></div></div><div class="RowWrapper-UmqTg HEhan full-bleed-ad row-mid-ntent-ad"><div class="StickyMidContentAdWrapper-fSBzwl drzyIa ad-stickymidntent"><div class="AdWrapper-dQtivb fZrssQ ad ad--mid-ntent should-hold-space"><div class="ad__slot ad__slot--mid-ntent" data-no-id="1uzqi6"></div></div></div></div><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK eRggVV grid grid-margs grid-ems-0 ArticlePageChunksGrid-hfxa bDFJoo"><div class="GridItem-buujkM kHPPIF grid--em"><div class="BodyWrapper-kufPGa bDyAMU body body__ntaer article__body" data-journey-hook="client-ntent" data-ttid="BodyWrapper"><div class="body__ner-ntaer"><p class="paywall">After we fished some vios, a sger named Leon Timbo picked up his guar. A big, beard man wh a warm se, he harmonized wh the Hoton-raised sger Denia on a slow versn of a classic R. & B. song by Luther Vandross, “Never Too Much.” The <a href=">ver</a>, which he performed at Black Opry events, had been Holly’s suggtn: an object lson mil alchemy. Timbo said, “It’s difficult to take the song om s former glory, bee my hoe we know by the begng of .” He imated Vandross’s origal, wh s rowdy dis bounce—<em>boom, boom, boom</em>.</p><div data-attr-viewport-monor="le-recirc" class="le-recirc-wrapper le-recirc-observer-target-3 viewport-monor-anchor"></div><p class="paywall">Holly said, “To me, a ver like this is bridgg the exact gap that we need. Bee Black people <em>love</em> some fuckg Luther, and to take and make Amerina— tak to a place they wouldn’t have thought of. And, then aga, is also an example to whe people, wonrg what our place is the genre.”</p><p class="paywall">If genre distctns weren’t so rigid, Timbo said, people might see Tracy Chapman—who was spired to play the guar by watchg “Hee Haw” as a child—and <a href=">Bill Whers</a> as untry legends. They would know about Lda Martell, the first Black woman to play at the Grand Ole Opry. A purist nostalgia about untry mic was ultimately distguishable om a racist one: both were focsed on policg a narrow fn of who qualified as the real thg.</p><p class="paywall">After the show at Dee’s, the group—several of whom were queer—hung out at the Lipstick Lounge, a queer bar wh karaoke and drag shows. The queens did a rowdy ll-and-rponse wh the crowd: “Lbians the room, raise your hands!” In the vtibule to an upstairs cigar bar, I spoke wh Aaron Vance, the son of a preacher wh a rad mistry. Vance, a lanky man his forti wh a low drawl, was one of Black Opry’s more old-school members. A <a href=">Merle Haggard</a>-fluenced sger, he’d wrten droll numbers such as “<a href=">Five Bucks Says</a>,” which he imaged drkg wh Abe Lln at a dive bar, talkg about the racial divi. When Vance moved to Nashville, 2014, he had been treated as an oddy, but the farm muny he me om, Amory, Mississippi, wasn’t unual to be a Black man who loved untry. His grandfather, a tck driver, had troduced him to Haggard. Vance nsired his mic his mistry, he said, and the Black Opry llective had eed him to pursue his missn on his own terms. “You n’t tell a wolf he’s too much of a wolf,” he said wh a lgh— other words, you uldn’t tell Vance that he was too untry. When I asked him what his karaoke song was, he sed: was “<a href=">If Heaven A’t a Lot Like Dixie</a>,” by Hank Williams, Jr.</p><p class="has-dropp has-dropp__lead-standard-headg paywall">On a bright sprg morng, Jay Knowl picked me up his red tck and drove to Fenwick’s 300, a der where Mic Row executiv take meetgs over pank. A Gen X dad wh msy hair, Knowl had grown up Nashville, wh untry his blood. His father, John Knowl, played guar wh the legendary Chet Atks, who helped pneer the Nashville Sound—the smooth, rad-iendly rival of Willie Nelson’s grty “outlaw” movement. In the early neti, when Jay went to Wleyan Universy, he felt spired by the rise of “alt-untry” stars, such as Steve Earle and Mary Chap Carpenter, who had clever lyrics and distctive voic full of feelg. It felt like a goln age for both mastream and die micians, as each si sparred over who was a rebel and who was a sellout—a lol tradn as old as the steel guar.</p><p class="paywall">Knowl returned home and went to work on Mic Row, beg a skilled craftsman who joked, his Twter b, that he was “the bt songwrer Nashville his price range.” He had sred some hs, cludg a 2012 Alan Jackson heartbreaker, “<a href=">So You Don’t Have to Love Me Anymore</a>,” which was nomated for a Grammy. But, lookg back, he was troubled by how the dtry had changed sce marketers rebrand alt-untry as Amerina, 1999, and bro untry took hold, a later. The genre’s epeng divisn had been damagg to both sis, his view: Amerina wasn’t phed by the market to speak more broadly, and Mic Row wasn’t prsured to get smarter. It was a spl that replited natnal polics ugly ways.</p><p class="paywall">Knowl’s job was, large part, still a sweet one: he met each day wh iends, scribblg a notebook as younger llaborators tapped lyrics to the Not app. His publisher paid him monthly for mos, and arranged pch to stars. But no wrers got rich off <a href=">Spotify</a> royalti. Knowl had watched, wh tratn, as the tonal range of untry lyrics had shnk, gettg more juvenile each year: for a while, every h was a party anthem, wh no darkns or story songs allowed. Recently, a small aperture had opened for songs about heartbreak, his favore subject. But after years the dtry he was wary of false hope: when his iend Chris Stapleton, a gravel-throated roots rocker, rose to fame, 2015, Knowl thought that the genre was enterg a ls ntrived phase. But on the rad samens got reward.</p><p class="paywall">One of the worst shifts had followed the 2003 Dixie Chicks sndal. At the time, the group was a top act, a beloved tr om Texas who merged fiddle-heavy bluegrass verve wh morn storytellg. Then, at a ncert London, jt as the Iraq War was gearg up, the lead sger, Natalie Ma, told the crowd that she was ashamed to e om the same state as Print Gee W. Bh. The backlash was stant: rad dropped the band, fans burned their albums, Toby Keh performed ont of a doctored image showg Ma alongsi Saddam Hse, and ath threats poured . Unnerved by the McCarthyist atmosphere, Knowl and other dtry profsnals gathered at an die movie hoe for a sub-rosa meetg of a group lled the Mic Row Democrats. Knowl told me, “It was kd of like an A.A. meetg—‘<em>Oh, y’all are dnks, too?</em> ’ ”</p><p class="paywall">But a meetg wasn’t a movement. For the next two s, the entire notn of a female untry star fad away. There would always be an exceptn or two—a Carrie Unrwood or a Miranda Lambert, or, lately, the spfire Laey Wilson, whose recent album “Bell Bottom Country” beme a h—jt as there would always be one or two Black stars, ually male. But Knowl, now fifty-three, knew lots of talented women his age who had found the gat of Nashville locked. “Some of them sell real tate, some of them wre songs,” he said. “Some sg backup. None beme stars.”</p><p class="paywall">Knowl felt enuraged by Nashville’s new wave, which had adopted a different strategy. Instead of petg, the artists llaborated. They phed one another up the ladr rather than sparrg to be “the one.” “This younger generatn, they all help each other out,” he said. “It feels unfaiar to me.”</p><p class="has-dropp has-dropp__lead-standard-headg paywall">Whenever I talked to people Nashville, I kept gettg hung up on the same qutns. How uld female sgers be “nonmercial” when Mgrav packed stadiums? Was easier to be openly gay now that big nam like Brandi Carlile were out? What ma a song wh fiddl “Amerina,” not “untry”? And why did so many of the bt tracks—lively character portras like Josh Rter’s “<a href=">Gettg Ready to Get Down</a>,” trippy experiments like Margo Price’s “<a href=">Been to the Mounta</a>,” razor-sharp mentari like <a href=">Brandy Clark</a>’s “<a href=">Pray to J</a>”—rarely make onto untry rad? I’d first fallen for the genre the neti, Atlanta, where I drove all the time, sgg along to rad hs by Garth Brooks and Reba McEntire, Randy Travis and Trisha Yearwood—the mic that my Gen X Southern iends found rny, associatg wh the worst people at their high schools. Des later, qualy and populary seemed out of synch; Mic Row and Amerina felt somehow distguishable, zily adjacent, and also at war.</p><p class="paywall">People I spoke to Nashville tend to fe Amerina as “roots” untry, as “progrsive-liberal” untry, or, more recently, as “diverse” untry. For some observers, the distctn was about fashn: vtage sus vers plaid shirts. For others, was about celebratg the sgular sger-songwrer. The label had always been a grab bag, rporatg everythg om honky-tonk to bluegrass, gospel to blu, Southern rock, Wtern swg, and folk. But the name self hted at a provotive notn: that <em>this</em> was the real Amerin mic, three chords and the historil tth.</p><div data-attr-viewport-monor="le-recirc" class="le-recirc-wrapper le-recirc-observer-target-4 viewport-monor-anchor"></div><p class="paywall">The blunter distctn was that, like pennt film, Amerina paid ls. (The sger-songwrer Todd Snir has joked that Amerina is “what they ed to ll ‘unsuccsful untry mic.’ ”) Not everyone embraced the label, even some of s biggt stars: five years ago, when Tyler Chilrs was named Emergg Artist of the Year at the Amerina Awards, he me onstage wearg a scraggly red beard, and growled, “As a man who intifi as a untry-mic sger, I feel Amerina a’t no part of noth’ ”—a reference to the bluegrass legend Bill Monroe’s gff dismissal of morn artists he disdaed.</p><p class="paywall">Maybe, as Chilrs later argued, Amerina functned as a ghetto for “good untry mic,” lettg “bad” untry off the hook. Or maybe was a relief valve, a platform for micians who otherwise had no astcture, given the bias of Mic Row. Marc K. Dowlg, a Black mic journalist who wr for the <em>Tennsean</em>, told me that, not long after the ath of Gee Floyd, he’d wrten a roundup of Black female untry artists, highlightg talents like Brtney Spencer, a former backup sger for Carrie Unrwood, the hope that at least one of them would break to mastream rad. “Almost all of them end up Amerina,” he said, wh a sigh.</p><p class="paywall">Gettg signed to Mic Row mand a different lculatn: you beme a brand, wh lns of dollars vted your reer. The top untry stars lived wealthy Frankl, alongsi the Daily Wire stars, or on isolated ranch whose luxe dér was shown off by their wiv on Instagram. This was part of what ma the bro-untry phenomenon so gallg to s crics: whe male lnair splayed as blue-llar rebels while the real rebels starved. The edian <a href=">Bo Burnham</a> nailed the problem a sthg parody, “<a href=">Country Song</a>,” which mocked both bro untry’s formulaic lyrics (“a ral noun, simple adjective”) and s phony thenticy: “I walk and talk like a field hand / But the boots I’m wearg st three grand / I wre songs about ridg tractors / From the fort of a private jet.”</p><figure class="AssetEmbedWrapper-eVDQiB byBkf asset-embed"><div class="AssetEmbedAssetContaer-eJxoAx dBHGoQ asset-embed__asset-ntaer"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW kKwZhx rponsive-asset AssetEmbedRponsiveAsset-cXBNxi eCxVQK asset-embed__rponsive-asset"><div data-attr-viewport-monor="" class="RponsiveCartoonWrapper-iTMMjI eXTYsS rponsive-rtoon AssetEmbedRponsiveAsset-cXBNxi eCxVQK asset-embed__rponsive-asset viewport-monor-anchor"><a class="external-lk rponsive-rtoon__image-lk" data-event-click="{"element":"ExternalLk","outgogURL":"" href=" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa RponsiveCartoonImage-hzNqyc ikeCcH rponsive-rtoon__image rponsive-image"><noscript><img alt="Woman holdg baby and talkg to iend." class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src=" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w, 960w, 1280w, 1600w" siz="100vw"/></noscript></picture></a><div class="CaptnWrapper-jSZdqE gdZTpI ptn RponsiveCartoonCaptn-dokfdF hJgaLQ rponsive-rtoon__ptn"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ CaptnText-bHjzlu iUEiRd hWyo bsWloa ptn__text">“She’s cute and everythg, but between you and me we have no mon terts.”</span></div><div class="CaptnWrapper-jSZdqE iTuhkZ ptn RponsiveCartoonCred-bKlQqO faLAFb rponsive-rtoon__cred"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ CaptnCred-ejegDm iUEiRd iicloT bmQtfn ptn__cred">Cartoon by Sophie Lucido Johnson and Sammi Skolmoski</span></div><div class="RponsiveCartoonCTA-eiqqMB iDCQRs"><div class="RponsiveCartoonCTAWrapper-CYIqa iTbFtf"><div class="RponsiveCartoonLkButtonWrapper-hqDAJK eSEhbj"><button 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height="24" fill="whe"></rect></clipPath></fs></svg></div></button></div></div></div></span></div></figure><p class="paywall">When Llie Fram first moved to Nashville, a ago, to n Country Mic Televisn—the genre’s equivalent of MTV—she studied Mic Row like a new language. “I unrstand why people who aren’t don’t get ,” she told me, over a fancy omelette the Gulch. “I didn’t get !” Fram, who has black hair and a ank, iendly manner, was born Alabama but spent years workg rock rad Atlanta and New York; she arrived Tennsee faiar wh Johnny Cash and a number of Amerina typ, like Lyle Lovett, but few others. It took her a while to grasp some stctural problems, like the way certa songs never even got tted for airplay if the men charge disapproved. Unlike a rock star, a untry star required a rad h to break to the tourg circu—so didn’t matter much if CMT repeatedly played vios by Brandy Clark or the Ain Amerin tr Chapel Hart. Most madngly, if women untry wanted to get airplay, they need to be sweet and bat their ey at the male gatekeepers at lol rad affiliat. Acrdg to “<a data-offer-url=" class="external-lk" data-event-click="{"element":"ExternalLk","outgogURL":"" href=" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Her Country</a>,” a book by Marissa R. Moss, Mgrav—who had ma a spectacular major-label début 2013, wh her album “Same Trailer Different Park”—saw her untry reer railed when she objected to a creepy d.j. named Broadway oglg her thighs durg an terview. Then the natn’s biggt untry d.j., Bobby Bon, lled her “” and a “sh head.” After that, her path forked elsewhere.</p></div></div></div></div><div class="RowWrapper-UmqTg HEhan full-bleed-ad row-mid-ntent-ad"><div class="StickyMidContentAdWrapper-fSBzwl drzyIa ad-stickymidntent"><div class="AdWrapper-dQtivb fZrssQ ad ad--mid-ntent should-hold-space"><div class="ad__slot ad__slot--mid-ntent" data-no-id="aq93ni"></div></div></div></div><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK eRggVV grid grid-margs grid-ems-0 ArticlePageChunksGrid-hfxa bDFJoo"><div class="GridItem-buujkM kHPPIF grid--em"><div class="BodyWrapper-kufPGa bDyAMU body body__ntaer article__body" data-journey-hook="client-ntent" data-ttid="BodyWrapper"><div class="body__ner-ntaer"><p class="paywall">In 2015, a rad nsultant named Keh Hill gave <a data-offer-url=" class="external-lk" data-event-click="{"element":"ExternalLk","outgogURL":"" href=" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">an terview</a> to a tra publitn, <em>Country Aircheck Weekly</em>, which he ma the implic explic: “If you want to make ratgs Country rad, take femal out.” For a statn to succeed, no more than fifteen per cent of s set list uld feature women, he warned—and never two songs a row. He scribed women as “the tomato of the salad,” to be ed spargly. Fury epted on social media; advocy anizatns, like Change the Conversatn, were formed. In 2019, the Highwomen released “<a href=">Crowd Table</a>,” a song that imaged a warmer, more open Nashville: “a hoe wh a crowd table / and a place by the fire for everyone.”</p><p class="paywall">Fram, who had recently lnched Next Women of Country, a program aimed at promotg young female artists, was ially exced by what beme known as Tomatogate. The ntroversy at least ma the stak clear. For the next , she met wh other top brass, workg to solve the genr puzzle. Did the proportns shift when Taylor Swift left the format? Was ridual rentment over the Chicks? Nothg that Fram or the others did ma a difference—and rad play for women kept droppg. Fally, a top rad executive told Fram, “Llie, A—the program directors are tired of hearg about this. Right? B—they don’t re.”</p><p class="paywall">Hill, who started workg untry rad 1974, has moved to Idaho, where he is thkg of retirg. Durg a recent phone ll, he prented himself, as he had the past, as the jocular id of untry rad—the last hont man a world of “woke jive.” The mographic for untry statns was narrow, he told me: whe, ral, and olr, skewg female. He nducted foc groups which he ppoted people om specific Zip Cos who listened to at least two hours of a given rad statn a day. Based on their feedback, his advice to programmers was firm: no more than fifteen per cent women, never two a row. Country mic was a merocracy, Hill sisted. He was jt prentg data.</p><p class="paywall">Hill did love one hip-hop-flected new artist, he told me: Jelly Roll, a heavily tattooed whe sger om Nashville who had a movg life story about gettg out of prison, kickg hard dgs, and fdg God. He was untry’s “most thentic” new artist, Hill’s timatn, wh an outlaw story to rival Merle Haggard’s. Could women be outlaws? “You know, central stg? I have my doubts,” Hill said. He blamed one woman after another for blowg her chance at succs. The Chicks had “opened their big mouths.” Mgrav had “self-flicted wounds.” Morris had “jured herself signifintly”—she’d shift to pop, he predicted. He saw a utnary tale the divergent reers of two Black artists, Kane Brown and Mickey Guyton: Brown, a shrewd bro-untry star, knew how to play the game, but Guyton had “hurt herself by beg a plaer.”</p><div data-attr-viewport-monor="le-recirc" class="le-recirc-wrapper le-recirc-observer-target-5 viewport-monor-anchor"></div><p class="paywall">The longer we talked, the more elive Hill’s notn of mer beme. When he praised someone’s thenticy, he didn’t mean lerally—everybody faked that, he said, wh a lgh. It wasn’t about qualy, eher. Even if an artist was generic, and sound like “seven Le Bryans slurried a blenr,” his songs uld bee hs—if he knew how to act. “Repeat after me: ‘I wrap myself the flag,’ ” Hill said. “Whether you are relig or not, when there’s September 11th or when tra rs overturn, you better be part of the damn prayer.” He uld have saved the Chicks’ reer, he bragged: they should have talked about brgg the troops home safely. Such nstrats applied only to liberals, he acknowledged. If you had “South your mouth,” the way Alan did, your highway had more lan.</p><p class="paywall">Eventually, Hill stopped speakg : “You got thuggg the hood for Black people, and you got redneck rerds for whe people.” That was jt natural, a matter of water flowg downward—why fight gravy? “Your diversy is the rad dial, om 88 to 108. <em>There’s</em> your fuckg diversy.”</p><p class="paywall">Jada Watson, an assistant profsor of mic at the Universy of Ottawa, began studyg untry rad after Tomatogate. What Hill lled data Watson saw as mil redlg. The origal s of untry mic—the spl between “race rerds” and “hillbilly”—had led to spl rad formats, which then led to spl charts. Never playg women back to back was an official remendatn datg to the eighti, formalized a trag document lled the “Programmg Operatns Manual.” The suatn worsened after 1996, when the Telemunitns Act permted pani to buy up an unlimed number of rad statns; the dial is now led by the behemoth iHeartRad, which has dified old bias to algorhms.</p></div></div></div></div><div class="RowWrapper-UmqTg HEhan"><div class="BodyWrapper-kufPGa RaHuL body ArticlePageBodyGridContaer-jrMoA-d xjuw body__grid-ntaer" data-ttid="BodyWrapper"><div data-ttid="feature-large-llout" class="CalloutFeatureLargeWrapper-cGjDsT gldPvP"><figure class="AssetEmbedWrapper-eVDQiB byBkf asset-embed"><div class="AssetEmbedAssetContaer-eJxoAx dBHGoQ asset-embed__asset-ntaer"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW kGxnNB rponsive-asset AssetEmbedRponsiveAsset-cXBNxi eCxVQK asset-embed__rponsive-asset"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO KhjZz AssetEmbedRponsiveAsset-cXBNxi eCxVQK asset-embed__rponsive-asset rponsive-image rponsive-image--expandable"><noscript><img alt="A man performs on the banjo as patrons look on at the Statn Inn." class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src=" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w, 960w, 1280w, 1600w" siz="100vw"/></noscript></picture></span></div><div class="CaptnWrapper-jSZdqE iTuhkZ ptn AssetEmbedCaptn-fNQBPI fmQnYP asset-embed__ptn"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ CaptnText-bHjzlu iUEiRd hWyo iXWezO ptn__text">The humble Statn Inn, where bluegrass fiddlers still gather, is the Gulch, a once dtrial area that is now chockablock wh luxury hotels.</span></div></figure></div></div></div><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK eRggVV grid grid-margs grid-ems-0 ArticlePageChunksGrid-hfxa bDFJoo"><div class="GridItem-buujkM kHPPIF grid--em"><div class="BodyWrapper-kufPGa bDyAMU body body__ntaer article__body" data-journey-hook="client-ntent" data-ttid="BodyWrapper"><div class="body__ner-ntaer"><p class="paywall">Sce 2000, the proportn of women on untry rad has sunk om thirty-three to eleven per cent. Black women currently reprent jt 0.03 per cent. (Ironilly, Tracy Chapman recently beme the first Black female songwrer to have a No. 1 untry h, when Le Combs released a ver of her classic “Fast Car.”) Country is popular worldwi, performed by micians om Ai to Atralia, Watson told me. It’s the voice of ral people everywhere—but you’d never know om the rad.</p><p class="paywall">All parti agreed on only one pot: you uldn’t ignore untry rad even if you wanted to— drove every cisn on Mic Row. As Gary Overton, a former C.E.O. of Sony Nashville, had <a data-offer-url=" class="external-lk" data-event-click="{"element":"ExternalLk","outgogURL":"" href=" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">put </a> 2015, “If you’re not on untry rad, you don’t exist.” Not enough had changed sce then, even wh the rise of onle platforms, like <a href=">TikTok</a>, that helped die artists go viral. Streamg wasn’t the solutn: like terrtrial rad, uld be gamed. When I ma a Spotify playlist lled “Country Mic,” the service suggted mostly tracks by whe male stars.</p><p class="has-dropp has-dropp__lead-standard-headg paywall">One day, I walked down to Mic Row, a betiful, wi street of large ho wh welg porch. On every block, there was evince of prospery: a wealth-management pany, a massage stud. I passed Big Loud, which had a sign outsi toutg Wallen’s h “You Proof”—one of the street’s many billboards of buff dus wh No. 1 sgl. Nearby, I wanred to a dive bar lled Bobby’s Idle Hour Tavern, which seemed appealgly ramshackle, as if had been there forever. In fact, had moved through the neighborhood; was torn down to make way for new nstctn and then rebuilt to mata s thentic look, wh dog-eared set lists pned to ratty walls. It felt like a cent metaphor for Nashville self.</p><p class="paywall">Insi, I ran to Jay Knowl, the Mic Row songwrer. (It was a small town a big cy.) We talked about Nashville’s recent reputatn as “Bachelorette Cy,” for which he offered a theory: although more than a quarter of Nashville was Black, the town was wily seen as “a whe-d cy.” “I’m not sayg this is a good thg,” he emphasized, but tourists viewed Nashville as a safe space, a cy where groups of young whe women uld eely get dnk public—unlike, say, Memphis, New Orleans, or Atlanta.</p><p class="paywall">At the bar, I also met two low-level Mic Row employe, who worked rad and helped pani handle V.I.P.s. They happily dished, off the rerd, about clash on the Row, but add that there was no pot brgg their own polics to their jobs. It was like workg for Walmart—you had to stay ntral. The problem wh untry rad wasn’t plited, one of them said: the old generatn still ran everythg and would never change s md. When I explaed that I was head to Broadway to meet bachelorett, they rolled their ey. Avoid Alan’s, they said.</p></div></div></div></div><div class="RowWrapper-UmqTg HEhan full-bleed-ad row-mid-ntent-ad"><div class="StickyMidContentAdWrapper-fSBzwl drzyIa ad-stickymidntent"><div class="AdWrapper-dQtivb fZrssQ ad ad--mid-ntent should-hold-space"><div class="ad__slot ad__slot--mid-ntent" data-no-id="yxt86"></div></div></div></div><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK eRggVV grid grid-margs grid-ems-0 ArticlePageChunksGrid-hfxa bDFJoo"><div class="GridItem-buujkM kHPPIF grid--em"><div class="BodyWrapper-kufPGa bDyAMU body body__ntaer article__body" data-journey-hook="client-ntent" data-ttid="BodyWrapper"><div class="body__ner-ntaer"><p class="paywall">They weren’t alone: every lol I met had urged me to go only to old standbys like Robert’s Wtern World, where I’d spent a wonrful night wh Tyler Mahan Coe—the rabble-rog son of the outlaw-untry artist David Allan Coe—who hosts a podst about untry history lled “<a href=">Coe & Rhton</a>.” “I hate nostalgia,” Tyler told me, spoolg out a theory that te untry mic rived om the troubadours, whose songs had satiril subtexts and were meant to be unrstood multiple ways. Bro untry lacked such nuance—and so did the new Broadway.</p><div data-attr-viewport-monor="le-recirc" class="le-recirc-wrapper le-recirc-observer-target-6 viewport-monor-anchor"></div><p class="paywall">Even so, Broadway charmed me, for a practil reason: there were no velvet rop. Each night club had at least three stori. On the ground floor, there was a bar and a stage where a skilled live mician vered hs. On the send floor, there was another bar, another mician (and, one se, a group of women toastg me wh grape vodka seltzers). Above that, thgs got wilr, wh a rowdy dance floor and, often, a rooftop bar. There was a mpy streak to the scene which sometim echoed the Lipstick Lounge: when the d.j. played Shania Twa’s classic “<a href=">Man! I Feel Like a Woman!</a>,” he shouted, “Do any of the ladi feel like a woman?” Loud cheers. “Do any of the men feel like a woman?” Deeper cheers. Call me basic, but I had a good time: Manhattan, a slovenly middle-aged woman jeans n’t walk to a night club, orr a Diet Coke, and go dancg for ee.</p><p class="paywall">Everywhere, there were bris wgirl hats or heart-shaped glass, and one se a majtic rhtone bodysu worthy of Dolly. On a btlg rooftop, I chatted wh a group holdg fans prted wh the face of the groom—who, they sisted, looked like Prce Harry. At a club named for the band Florida Geia Le, a screamg woman threw silver glter to my hair. Every lol whom I’d spoken to loathed the terlopers, who clogged the streets wh their party b. But when you’re hangg out wh happy women celebratg their iends, ’s hard to see the problem.</p><p class="paywall">The bar at the center of Jason Alan’s was built around a big green tractor. The bathroom doors said “<em class="small">southern gentlemen</em>” and “<em class="small">untry girls</em>.” The night I went, the crowd was sedate—no bachelorett, jt middle-aged upl. The sger onstage was handsome and fun, exced to get a requt for the Chicks’ “<a href=">Travel’ Soldier</a>.” When someone asked for “<a href=">Wagon Wheel</a>,” a 2004 classic -wrten by Bob Dylan and vered a later by Dari Rucker, the sger spoke nostalgilly about passersby requtg the song when he bked on Broadway years ago, before the streets were jammed wh tourists. “It jt go to show you that wh a lot of ditn and hard work and about eleven years’ time, you n go about a hundred feet om where you started!” he said. “So here’s a ltle ‘Wagon Wheel’ for you!” Feelg affectnate, I looked up the sger onle. His Twter page was full of liked posts fendg anti-vaxxers and January 6th rters.</p><p class="has-dropp has-dropp__lead-standard-headg paywall">Taylor Swift got disvered at the Bluebird Café. So did Garth Brooks. A nety-seat venue wh a postage stamp of a stage, ’s tucked between a barbershop and a dry cleaner, but ’s a power center Nashville—a place led by sger-songwrers. In January, Aem the Artist wore a flowered button-down over a T-shirt that said “This Is a Great Day to Kill God.” They were playg their first Bluebird showse, performg songs om their breakout sophomore album, “Whe Trash Revelry.” Some were stompers, like the hilar “<a href=">Gog to Hell</a>,” which Aem fact-checks the lyrics to Charlie Daniels’s “<a href=">The Devil Went Down to Geia</a>” wh the Devil himself: “He seemed puzzled, so I told him the story, and he said, ‘None of that sh’s real / It’s te I met Robert Johnson, he showed me how the blu uld work / But whe men would rather give the Devil praise than acknowledge a black man’s worth.’ ” Other songs were reveri about growg up amid “methamphetam and spirual madns.” They were folky tun played on atic guar, wh wty, poted lyrics. The people the crowd seemed to be to , even when Aem took jabs at them.</p><p class="paywall">Aem grew up a poor evangelil hoehold Loct, North Carola, sgg along to Toby Keh—the self-clared “Angry Amerin”—on the r rad, the wake of 9/11. They dreamed about beg a untry star, but as their polics veered to the left they felt creasgly at odds wh the genre. Then, 2017, they won a ticket to the Amerina Awards, and were stck by the sight of the sger-songwrer Alynda Segarra, of the band Hurray for the Riff Raff, sportg a hand-pated “Jail Arpa” shirt, and by the Nashville bluegrass performer Jim Lrdale takg shots at Tmp. “I was jt, like, ‘Man, maybe <em>this</em> is . Maybe this is where I belong,’ ” Aem told me. Amerina had another source of appeal for Aem, a D.I.Y. artist wh a punk mentaly: you uld break on a shotrg budget. Aem, who was barely scrapg by patg ho the Tennsee sun, had spent years buildg a followg by uploadg songs to Bandmp. They budgeted what would take to make a splash wh an album: five thoand dollars for productn, ten thoand for P.R. They held a “redneck fund-raiser” onle, askg each donor for a dollar, then rerd “Whe Trash Revelry” penntly. (The album was distributed by Thirty Tigers, a Nashville-based pany that let them reta the rights.) Aem’s strategy worked astoundgly well: December, <em>Rollg Stone</em> <a href=">praised</a> “Whe Trash Revelry” as “the most empathetic untry album of the year,” rankg No. 7 on s year-end list of the twenty-five bt albums the genre. This year, Aem was nomated for Emergg Act of the Year at the Amerina Awards, and had their début at the Grand Ole Opry.</p><p class="paywall">After the Bluebird gig, I joed Aem at an Airbnb nearby, where they were experiencg some “visual distortns” om microdosg shrooms. Over pizza, they spoke about their plited relatnship wh their extend fay, back North Carola, some of whom believed <a href=">QAnon</a> nspiracy theori. Aem’s relativ were thrown by, but not unsupportive of, their choic: when their uncle sisted that Aem’s genr inty was a rock-and-roll performance à la Ziggy Stardt, Aem’s father fend his child’s thenticy, his own way. “He said, ‘No, no, I thk he really believ !’ ” Aem told me, wh a lgh.</p><p class="paywall">There had always been queer people untry mic. In 1973, a band lled Lavenr Country put out an album wh lyrics like “My belly turns to jelly / like some nelly genue.” But there were many more ugly stori of sgers forced to the closet—and even now, after many top talents, cludg songwrers such as Brandy Clark and Shane McAnally, had e out, old taboos lgered. You uld be a songwrer, not a sger; you uld sg love songs, but not say whom you loved; you uld e out, but lose your spot on the rad. When T. J. Osborne, of the popular duo Brothers Osborne, nfirmed that he was gay, 2021, his management pany arranged a reful mpaign: one profile, wrten by a sympathetic journalist, and one relevant sgle, the eful but vague “<a href=">Younger Me</a>,” which felt signed to offend no one.</p></div></div></div></div><div class="RowWrapper-UmqTg HEhan"><div class="BodyWrapper-kufPGa RaHuL body ArticlePageBodyGridContaer-jrMoA-d xjuw body__grid-ntaer" data-ttid="BodyWrapper"><div class="GenericCalloutWrapper-tojWn ecxUUd llout--has-top-borr" data-ttid="GenericCallout"><figure class="AssetEmbedWrapper-eVDQiB byBkf asset-embed"><div class="AssetEmbedAssetContaer-eJxoAx dBHGoQ asset-embed__asset-ntaer"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW kGxnNB rponsive-asset AssetEmbedRponsiveAsset-cXBNxi eCxVQK asset-embed__rponsive-asset"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO KhjZz AssetEmbedRponsiveAsset-cXBNxi eCxVQK asset-embed__rponsive-asset rponsive-image rponsive-image--expandable"><noscript><img alt="People sg to microphon at the Lipstick Lounge." class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src=" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w, 960w, 1280w, 1600w" siz="100vw"/></noscript></picture></span></div><div class="CaptnWrapper-jSZdqE iTuhkZ ptn AssetEmbedCaptn-fNQBPI fmQnYP asset-embed__ptn"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ CaptnText-bHjzlu iUEiRd hWyo iXWezO ptn__text">The Lipstick Lounge, a queer bar wh karaoke and drag shows.</span></div></figure></div></div></div><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK eRggVV grid grid-margs grid-ems-0 ArticlePageChunksGrid-hfxa bDFJoo"><div class="GridItem-buujkM kHPPIF grid--em"><div class="BodyWrapper-kufPGa bDyAMU body body__ntaer article__body" data-journey-hook="client-ntent" data-ttid="BodyWrapper"><div class="body__ner-ntaer"><p class="paywall">Aem, who is spired as much by Andy Kfman’s absurdism as by John Pre’s smarts, was part of a different breed. Queer Amerina had plenty of outspoken artists, om River Shook, whose signature song is “<a href=">Fuck Up</a>,” to the bluegrass artist Jt Hiltner, who wrote about <em class="small">AIDS</em> his betiful sgle “<a href=">1992</a>.” The artists, all left-wg, me om backgrounds like Aem’s—small towns, evangelil fai, abe and addictn. It was Aem’s biggt gripe: Mic Row was marketg a patronizg parody of their “whe trash” upbrgg to the poor. Aem’s own polics weren’t a simple matter. When they objected to Tennsee laws agast trans youth, wasn’t as a liberal but as a parent and a redneck spic of ernment ntrol: “It’s, like, stay away om my kids! Stay out of my yard, you know?”</p><p class="paywall">At the Airbnb, Aem’s transmascule acpanist, Ellen Angeli, known as Uncle Ellen, pulled out a ck of rds: a beta versn of Bro Country, a Cards Agast Humany-style game based on actual untry-rad lyrics. The group got loose and giggly, shoutg out clichés—“t roof,” “red tck”—to form silly batns. In one way, the game mocked untry rad; another, paid tribute to —you uldn’t play unls you had studied . Like hip-hop, untry had always been an aggrsively meta-referential art form; even bro untry had bee creasgly self-aware.</p><div data-attr-viewport-monor="le-recirc" class="le-recirc-wrapper le-recirc-observer-target-7 viewport-monor-anchor"></div><p class="paywall">On bad days, Aem had told me, the two sis of Nashville seemed locked a “W.W.E. wrtlg match,” playg rtoon versns of themselv. Aem had engaged a few bouts themself, lobbg attentn-gettg songs onle, such as “<a href=">I Wish You Would’ve Been a Cowboy</a>,” which slammed Toby Keh for wearg “my life like a stume on the TV.” Still, Aem sometim fantasized about what would be like to meet Keh. They wanted not a fight but a real nversatn—a chance to tell Keh how much his mic had meant to them, and to ask if he had regrets.</p><p class="has-dropp has-dropp__lead-standard-headg paywall">In mid-May, at the Amy of Country Mic Awards, Mic Row was out force. Bobby Bon, the d.j. who’d sulted Mgrav, was backstage, terviewg stars. Wallen won Male Artist of the Year. Alan sang “<a href=">Tough Crowd</a>,” dited to the “hell rais’ . . . dirt turn’, diel burn’, hard work’ ne-to-fivers” who “make the red whe and blue proud.” (A few weeks later, he released the repellent “Try That a Small Town,” an o to vigilantism.) The show’s highlight was a fun e-on lled “<a href=">Grease</a>,” by Laey Wilson, who won four awards, cludg Female Artist and Album of the Year. Wilson, a farmer’s dghter om Louisiana, was Mic Row’s latt female supernova, a votee of Dolly Parton (one of her early hs was “<a href=">WWDD</a>”) who’d moved to Nashville after high school. A of htle had paid off: by 2023, she had a role on “Yellowstone” and a partnership wh Wrangler jeans. Maren Morris wasn’t around: that week, she was New York, acceptg a prize at the <em class="small">glaad</em> Awards. On Instagram, she’d posted a vio of herself a rerdg stud wh the die-pop gu <a href=">Jack Antonoff</a>. At a ncert a few weeks later, she sang a duet wh Taylor Swift.</p><p class="paywall">The A.C.M. Awards’ fal number was the live première of Parton’s new sgle, “<a href=">World on Fire</a>,” om an upg rock album. When the lights me up, Parton was wearg an enormo, ripplg parachute skirt prted wh a black-and-whe map of the globe—and then, when tore away, she was a black leather su, chantg angrily as backup dancers sttted Ja Jackson-que formatn. For a moment, felt like a shockg parture—a polil statement om a woman who never got polil. Then that imprsn evaporated. Policians were liars, Parton sang; people should be kr, ls ugly. What ever happened to “In God We Tst”? Four days later, on the “Today” show, Jab Soboroff asked Parton which policians she meant, and she replied, breezily, “All of them, any of them,” addg that if the unnamed figur tried “hard enough” and worked “om the heart,” matters would surely improve.</p><p class="paywall">The performance remd me of Keh Hill’s advice to the Chicks: they should have sprkled some sugar. Parton had been the biggt letdown for Allison Rsell and the anizers of the “Love Risg” benef, who told me that they’d “begged and begged” her to sg at the Bridgtone, or plug the event, or Zoom . She’d performed wh drag queens many tim; she’d wrten an Osr-nomated song, “<a href=">Travel’ Th</a>,” for the 2005 film “Transameri.” As Parton herself had joked, she <em>was</em> a kd of drag queen—a “herself impersonator,” as Rsell had put . If the most powerful untry star on earth wouldn’t speak out, was hard to image others takg a risk.</p><p class="paywall">Another song performed that night had a different feel: “<a href=">Bonfire at Ta’s</a>,” an ensemble number om Ashley McBry’s panmic project, a bold ncept album lled “Lville,” which featured numero gut artists. The rerd had received cril praise but ltle rad play. Durg “Bonfire at Ta’s,” a chos of women sang, “Small town women a’t built to get along / But you burn one, boy, you burn all.” In s salty solidary, the song njured the llectiv emergg across Nashville, om “Love Risg” to Black Opry, groups that embodied the Highwomen’s notn of the “crowd table.” You uld also see this ial reflected “My Kd of Country,” a realy petn show on Apple TV+, produced by Mgrav and Ree Wherspoon, that focsed on global untry acts and clud the gay South Ain mician Orville Peck as a judge, and “Shucked,” a new Broadway show wh mic by Brandy Clark and Shane McAnally, which offered up a sweet visn of a multiracial small town learng to open s doors. Mastream untry rad hadn’t changed, but all around people were bily imagg what would happen if did.</p></div></div></div></div><div class="RowWrapper-UmqTg HEhan full-bleed-ad row-mid-ntent-ad"><div class="StickyMidContentAdWrapper-fSBzwl drzyIa ad-stickymidntent"><div class="AdWrapper-dQtivb fZrssQ ad ad--mid-ntent should-hold-space"><div class="ad__slot ad__slot--mid-ntent" data-no-id="a42xvf"></div></div></div></div><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK eRggVV grid grid-margs grid-ems-0 ArticlePageChunksGrid-hfxa bDFJoo"><div class="GridItem-buujkM kHPPIF grid--em"><div class="BodyWrapper-kufPGa bDyAMU body body__ntaer article__body" data-journey-hook="client-ntent" data-ttid="BodyWrapper"><div class="body__ner-ntaer"><p class="paywall">McBry, who grew up a small town Arkansas, had spent years workg honky-tonks and untry fairs, a journey she sang about the anthemic number “<a href=">Girl Go’ Nowhere</a>.” She was a distctive figure mastream untry, a bte a sea of blons, wh arms vered tattoos. When we met backstage one night at the Grand Ole Opry, she was playg a memorial ncert for the character actor and pt-size Southern sissy <a href=">Llie Jordan</a>, who had created a virtual crowd table durg the panmic, through ebullient Instagram vios, then rerd a gospel album wh untry stars such as Parton.</p><p class="paywall">Unlike Jordan’s joyful quarante, McBry’s panmic had been “stctive,” she told me: unable to work, she drank too much, feelg like a “sheepdog that uldn’t chase sheep.” “Lville” had been the solutn. Durg a weeklong retreat at an Airbnb Tennsee, she had wrten for up to eighteen hours a day wh old iends, among them Brandy Clark and the Florida-born performer Pillbox Patti. The rult was a set of songs about distct characters—songs that were blunter and ls sentimental than most mic on untry rad. The album, which was named for Dennis L, the songwrer behd the Chicks’ femist revenge classic “Goodbye Earl,” had a spirual edge, McBry said. She had grown up a “strange, strict, rigid” place where she was tght that “everythg mak J mad,” and felt good to envisn a different kd of small town. “The fact that God lov stray dogs, people like me, is so evint,” she said. “There are thgs that I’ve survived, pecially where alhol was volved, that I shouldn’t have.”</p><p class="paywall">McBry, who lled herself as “untry as a homema sock,” had no plans to shift to pop, as peers had done. But she had a pragmatic view of the dtry to which she’d voted her life. Makg mic Nashville, she joked, uld feel like adoptg a street t, only to have be you when turned out to be a possum. “He’s a shty t, untry rad—but he’s a good possum,” she said. To build a big reer, you had to keep a sense of humor: “I won’t name her, but there’s another female artist who has a very vertil backbone, like I do. And we joke wh each other and go, ‘What are they gonna do— <em>not play our songs</em>?’ ”</p><p class="paywall">I’d attend a stagg of “Lville” at the Ryman Audorium a few weeks earlier, shortly after Tennsee’s first anti-drag ordance passed the State Senate. The event was amed as an old-fashned rad show, wh an announcer and whimsil ad jgl. T. J. Osborne and Laey Wilson were among the gut stars, creatg a feelg of Mic Row mararie. Durg McBry’s hilar “<a href=">Brenda Put Your Bra On</a>,” which women a trailer park gossip about neighbors—“Well, did you hear that? There went the good dish / I hope they don’t knock out the ble”—fans threw bras onstage.</p><div data-attr-viewport-monor="le-recirc" class="le-recirc-wrapper le-recirc-observer-target-8 viewport-monor-anchor"></div><p class="paywall">At one pot, McBry serenad a small child, who was seated at her feet. The show’s climax was “<a href=">Gospel Night at the Strip Club</a>.” Sung on an atic guar by the Louisiana mician Benjy Davis, the tune was about havg a spirual experience an unexpected place. As Davis sang the key le, “J lov the dnkards and the whor and the queers,” spotlights illumated part of the dience. The ngregatn of the Church of Country Mic looked around for what had been revealed, then gasped: five drag queens, sttered among the Ryman crowd, stood up, their gowns glterg like sunlight. ♦</p><p class="paywall"><em>An earlier versn of this article misspelled T. J. Osborne’s name and misstated the date of Governor Lee’s gural banquet and the tle of a song by Aem the Artist.</em></p></div></div></div></div><div class="RowWrapper-UmqTg HEhan"><div class="BodyWrapper-kufPGa RaHuL body ArticlePageBodyGridContaer-jrMoA-d xjuw body__grid-ntaer" data-ttid="BodyWrapper"><div data-ttid="feature-large-llout" class="CalloutFeatureLargeWrapper-cGjDsT gldPvP"><figure class="AssetEmbedWrapper-eVDQiB byBkf asset-embed"><div class="AssetEmbedAssetContaer-eJxoAx dBHGoQ asset-embed__asset-ntaer"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW kGxnNB rponsive-asset AssetEmbedRponsiveAsset-cXBNxi eCxVQK asset-embed__rponsive-asset"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO KhjZz AssetEmbedRponsiveAsset-cXBNxi eCxVQK asset-embed__rponsive-asset rponsive-image rponsive-image--expandable"><noscript><img alt="A person stands outsi De a mic venue East Nashville." class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src=" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w, 960w, 1280w, 1600w" siz="100vw"/></noscript></picture></span></div><div class="CaptnWrapper-jSZdqE iTuhkZ ptn AssetEmbedCaptn-fNQBPI fmQnYP asset-embed__ptn"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ CaptnText-bHjzlu iUEiRd hWyo iXWezO ptn__text">Dee’s, a mic venue East Nashville.</span></div></figure></div></div></div></div><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK eRggVV grid grid-margs grid-ems-0 PaywallInleBarrierWhWrapperGrid-fyrGfS jyGBoi"><div class="GridItem-buujkM kHPPIF grid--em"><div class="body body__le-barrier article__body article__body--grid-margs"><div class="ntaer ntaer--body"><div class="ntaer--body-ner"><asi class="PaywallInleBarrierWrapper-iBnuqk lfXXa-D" data-ttid="PaywallInleBarrierWrapper"><div class="ConsumerMarketgUnThemedWrapper-iUTMTf jssHut nsumer-marketg-un nsumer-marketg-un--paywall-le-barrier" role="prentatn" aria-live="pole" aria-hidn="te"><div class="nsumer-marketg-un__slot nsumer-marketg-un__slot--paywall-le-barrier"></div><div class="journey-un"></div></div></asi></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK eRggVV grid grid-margs grid-ems-0 ContentWrapperGrid-fvkmBv jfHKjr"><div class="GridItem-buujkM kHPPIF grid--em"><div class="body body__ntaer"><div class="ntaer ntaer--body"><div class="ntaer--body-ner"></div></div></div></div></div></div></article><div class="ContentFooterWrapper-jVNdRG bGJnrW ArticlePageContentFooterGrid-ccsXYy fzwwkW article-body__footer"><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK eRggVV grid grid-margs grid-ems-0"><div class="GridItem-buujkM kHPPIF grid--em"><footer class="ContentFooterMagazeDisclaimer-gzKAqo iZIuUU" data-ttid="MagazeDisclaimerWrapper">Published the prt edn of the <a href="/magaze/2023/07/24" data-reactroot="">July 24, 2023</a>, issue, wh the headle “The Nashville Unrground.”</footer></div></div><div class="RowWrapper-UmqTg HEhan"><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK eRggVV grid grid-margs grid-ems-0"><div class="GridItem-buujkM kHPPIF grid--em"><div 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where are the gay bars in nashville

All the latt rmatn + rourc you will need when movg to LGBTQ Nashville, cludg the bt gay neighborhoods, muny groups, gay realtors, and more.

Contents:

THE BEST NASHVILLE GAY CLUBS & BARSGAY CLUBS & BARS NASHVILLE

Top Nashville Gay Clubs & Bars: See reviews and photos of Gay Clubs & Bars Nashville, Tennsee on Tripadvisor. * where are the gay bars in nashville *

ReviewTripsAlertsSign CartNashvilleNashville TourismNashville HotelsNashville Vatn RentalsFlights to NashvilleNashville RtrantsThgs to Do NashvilleNashville Travel FomNashville PhotosNashville MapNashville Travel GuiNashville Bed and BreakfastHotelsAll Nashville HotelsNashville Hotel DealsLast Mute Hotels NashvilleNashville MotelsNashville CampgroundsNashville HostelsRomantic Hotels NashvilleNashville Green HotelsNashville RortsNashville Luxury HotelsNashville Spa RortsNashville Bs HotelsNashville Fay Hotels3-Star Hotels Nashville4-Star Hotels Nashville5-Star Hotels NashvilleHoliday Inns Exprs NashvilleExtend Stay Ameri Hotels NashvilleSprghill Su NashvilleEnoLodge Hotels NashvilleEmbassy Su by Hilton NashvilleRed Roof Inns NashvilleQualy Inns NashvilleHome2 Su by Hilton NashvilleDays Inns NashvilleFairfield Inns NashvilleSuper 8 Hotels NashvilleGaylord Hotels NashvilleRadisson Hotels NashvilleChoice Hotels NashvilleAmeris Bt Value Inns NashvillePet Friendly Hotels NashvilleNashville Hotels wh PoolsNashville Hotels wh Free ParkgDowntown Nashville HotelsGreen Hills HotelsGermantown HotelsHotels near Grandview HeightsHotels near Penngtom BendHotels near Rollg AcrHotels near Hermage HillsHotels near Merry OaksHotels near VanrbiltHotels near HillwoodBoutique Hotels NashvilleDisunt Hotels NashvilleNashville Hotels wh Hot TubsNashville Hotels wh Smokg RoomsHotels wh Shuttle NashvilleSue Hotels NashvilleNashville Hotels wh KcheteNashville Hotels wh Conference RoomsNashville Hotels wh BalniNashville Hotels wh Room ServiceNashville Hotels wh Soundproof roomsNashville Hotels wh SnaHotels near Country Mic Hall of Fame and MmHotels near Ryman AudoriumHotels near Downtown NashvilleHotels near Belle Mea Historic Se & WeryHotels near The Johnny Cash MmHotels near Gaylord Opryland Rort GarnsHotels near Andrew Jackson's HermageHotels near Nashville ParthenonHotels near RCA Stud BHotels near Nashville's BIGGEST and WILDEST Party Wagon Tour. Gupton CollegeHotels near SAE Instute of Technology - NashvillePopular All-Inclive RortsPopular Beach RortsPopular Fay RortsPopular All-Inclive HotelsPopular Hotels Wh WaterparksPopular Honeymoon RortsPopular Luxury RortsPopular All-Inclive Fay RortsPopular Golf RortsPopular Spa RortsPopular Cheap RortsThgs to DoAll thgs to do NashvilleNightlife NashvilleGood for a Ray DayBudget-iendlyGood for Big GroupsGood for CouplFree EntryGood for KidsHoneymoon spotHidn GemsGood for Adrenale SeekersAdventuroBars & Clubs NashvilleBlu Bars NashvilleCigar Bars NashvilleCountry & Wtern Bars NashvilleGay Bars NashvilleJazz Bars NashvilleKaraoke Bars NashvillePiano Bars NashvilleComedy Clubs NashvilleDance Clubs & Diss NashvilleCoffeeho NashvilleWe Bars NashvilleBar, Club & Pub Tours NashvilleNightlife GermantownNightlife Green HillsNightlife Downtown NashvilleNightlife Historic EdgefieldTours & Activi NashvilleShoppg NashvilleOutdoor Activi NashvilleSights & Landmarks NashvilleFood & Drk NashvilleFun & 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Camps & Clics NashvilleWater Sports NashvilleGear Rentals NashvilleBoat Rentals NashvilleKayakg & Canoeg NashvilleRiver Raftg & Tubg NashvilleScuba & Snorkellg NashvilleSurfg & Wdsurfg NashvilleWaterskig & Jetskig Nashville4WD, ATV & Off-Road Tours NashvilleArchectural Buildgs NashvilleBattlefields NashvilleBridg NashvilleCemeteri NashvilleCivic Centr NashvilleRelig S NashvilleEdutnal s NashvilleFountas NashvilleGovernment Buildgs NashvilleHistoric S NashvilleHistoric Walkg Areas NashvilleMonuments & Statu NashvilleNeighborhoods NashvilleObservatn Decks & Towers NashvilleScenic Walkg Areas NashvilleWeri & Veyards NashvilleBreweri NashvilleDistilleri NashvilleBeer Tastgs & Tours NashvilleCoffee & Tea Tours NashvilleCookg Class NashvilleFood Tours NashvilleWe Tours & Tastgs NashvilleWe Bars NashvilleFarmers Markets NashvilleDistillery Tours NashvillePlaygrounds NashvilleMovie Theaters NashvilleComedy Clubs NashvilleGame & Entertament Centers NashvilleBowlg Alleys NashvilleSports Complex NashvilleEspe Gam NashvilleSvenger Hunts NashvilleShootg Rang NashvilleMiature Golf NashvillePat & Pottery Studs NashvilleBlu Bars NashvilleCountry & Wtern Bars NashvilleJazz Bars NashvillePiano Bars NashvilleComedy Clubs NashvilleTheatre & Performanc NashvilleBallets NashvilleOperas NashvilleDner Theaters NashvilleHealth Clubs NashvilleYoga & Pilat NashvilleTaxis & Shuttl NashvilleB Servic NashvilleArt Galleri NashvilleArt Mms NashvilleHistory Mms NashvilleMilary Mms NashvilleScience Mms NashvilleObservatori & Plaariums NashvilleSpecialy Mms NashvilleSports Camps & Clics NashvilleLsons & Workshops NashvilleCookg Class NashvillePat & Pottery Studs NashvilleWater Sports NashvilleBoat Rentals NashvilleKayakg & Canoeg NashvilleRiver Raftg & Tubg NashvilleScuba & Snorkellg NashvilleSurfg & Wdsurfg NashvilleWaterskig & Jetskig NashvilleFishg Charters & Tours NashvilleStand Up Paddleboardg NashvillePlaygrounds NashvilleGarns NashvilleNature & Wildlife Areas NashvilleState Parks NashvilleBikg Trails NashvilleHikg Trails NashvilleBodi of Water NashvilleConventn Centers NashvilleLibrari NashvilleVisor Centers NashvilleAirport Loung NashvilleThgs to Do Downtown NashvilleThgs to Do GermantownThgs to Do Green HillsThgs to Do Hillsboro Wt EndThgs to Do Bellmont/HillsboroThgs to Do Borx AreaThgs to Do Historic EdgefieldGrand Ole Opry: Tickets & Tours‎Ryman Audorium: Tickets & Tours‎Country Mic Hall of Fame and Mm: Tickets & Tours‎Belle Mea Historic Se & Wery: Tickets & Tours‎Andrew Jackson's Hermage: Tickets & Tours‎Downtown Nashville: Tickets & Tours‎The Johnny Cash Mm: Tickets & Tours‎RCA Stud B: Tickets & Tours‎Micians Hall of Fame and Mm: Tickets & Tours‎Nashville Parthenon: Tickets & Tours‎Ole Smoky Distillery & Yee-Haw Brewery: Tickets & Tours‎Cheekwood: Tickets & Tours‎Nashville Zoo: Tickets & Tours‎Centennial Park: Tickets & Tours‎Belmont Mansn: Tickets & Tours‎Thgs to do near Grand Ole OpryThgs to do near Ryman AudoriumThgs to do near Country Mic Hall of Fame and MmThgs to do near Belle Mea Historic Se & WeryThgs to do near Andrew Jackson's HermageThgs to do near Downtown NashvilleThgs to do near The Johnny Cash MmThgs to do near Gaylord Opryland Rort GarnsThgs to do near Nashville ParthenonThgs to do near CheekwoodThgs to do near Nashville ZooThgs to do near Centennial ParkThgs to do near Bridgtone ArenaThgs to do near Frist Art MmThgs to do near Radnor Lake State ParkThgs to do near Nashville Intl Airport (BNA)Thgs to do near Tennsee State UniversyThgs to do near Belmont UniversyThgs to do near Lipsb UniversyThgs to do near Fisk UniversyThgs to do near AI - Nashville, TNThgs to do near The Gallat HotelThgs to do near 506 LoftsThgs to do near The Joseph, a Luxury Collectn Hotel, NashvilleThgs to do near The Germantown InnThgs to do near Cambria Hotel Nashville DowntownThgs to do near Waymore's Gut Hoe and Casual ClubThgs to do near Dry Plaza Hotel Nashville DowntownThgs to do near JW Marrtt NashvilleThgs to do near 1 Hotel NashvilleThgs to do near 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NASHVILLE’S GAY AND LBIAN NIGHTLIFE

Play Dance Bar18Bars & Clubs • Gay BarsBy Starrlee316Play Dance Bar is AMAZING!!! And yet queer culture here is more vibrant than Dolly Parton’s Coat of Many Colors, wh a patchwork of gay bars, clubs, and f around town and a history datg back nearly a century. The cy’s first two rerd gay bars — the Jungle and Juana’s — opened Downtown Nashville the 1950s, where they served as havens for LGBTQ+ Nashvillians until the early 1980s.

If Nashville’s gay bars were Zodiac signs, Play would be a Gemi: the buildg nnects two spac rooms that feel like pletely different bars. Tribe is a gulp-and-gab gay bar where groups gather to chat on the three-tiered outdoor ck, shoot rounds of pool, or pregame before htg Play’s dance floor, nveniently loted next door. Trax don’t look like anythg special: ’s hoed a dgy brick buildg on Bian Paige Way (named for the late lol drag in and HIV/AIDS activist) and far removed om the cy’s other gay bars.

This is also the gay go-to for last-ll libatns. If you’re lookg for a morng pick-me-up near Broadway’s neon lights, head to this gay-owned bakery and ffee shop n by Nashville native David Andrews.

A PLACE 'WHERE YOU FELT SAFE': NASHVILLE'S FIRST GAY BARS REMEMBERED WH HISTORIL MARKER

Most of Nashville’s gay bars don’t pick up steam until the weekend, but there are plenty of queer-iendly tablishments worth checkg out while wag for the fun to beg. For a s-down dner or boozy bnch, try the Mockgbird, a gay-owned rtrant dishg global plat fed wh Nashville style. Then there’s Whe Limozeen, a Dolly Parton-themed bar atop the Graduate Hotel, where you n sip uy cktails, admire the pretty--pk r, and snap pictur ont of a larger-than-life chicken-wire sculpture of the gay in herself.

”) We all lghed and swayed to “Whatever You’re Up For, ” an fect dance-party number by the Kentucky Gentlemen, stylish gay tws who shimmied around a stable wearg leather pants and leopard-prt shirts. And gay stars—particularly Black gay stars—are a rary, even the wake of a trickster like Lil Nas X, who hacked the untry charts 2019, wh “Old Town Road. Was easier to be openly gay now that big nam like Brandi Carlile were out?

” They were playg their first Bluebird showse, performg songs om their breakout sophomore album, “Whe Trash Revelry.

MOVG TO LGBT NASHVILLE, TENNSEE? HOW TO FD YOUR PERFECT GAY NEIGHBORHOOD!

Osborne, of the popular duo Brothers Osborne, nfirmed that he was gay, 2021, his management pany arranged a reful mpaign: one profile, wrten by a sympathetic journalist, and one relevant sgle, the eful but vague “Younger Me, ” which felt signed to offend no, who is spired as much by Andy Kfman’s absurdism as by John Pre’s smarts, was part of a different breed. ” You uld also see this ial reflected “My Kd of Country, ” a realy petn show on Apple TV+, produced by Mgrav and Ree Wherspoon, that focsed on global untry acts and clud the gay South Ain mician Orville Peck as a judge, and “Shucked, ” a new Broadway show wh mic by Brandy Clark and Shane McAnally, which offered up a sweet visn of a multiracial small town learng to open s doors.

*BEAR-MAGAZINE.COM* WHERE ARE THE GAY BARS IN NASHVILLE

Nashville’s Gay and Lbian Nightlife | Moon Travel Guis .

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