THE 10 BEST Berl Gay Clubs & Bars (Updated 2023) - Tripadvisor

berlin gay club wednesday

24 Dec 2024

Das sd die bten queeren Clubs und Gay Partys Berl" data-svelte="svelte-1oc7j7v

LGBTQ+ BERL – THE CY’S BT GAY BARS, CLUBS AND SNAS

Top Berl Gay Clubs & Bars: See reviews and photos of Gay Clubs & Bars Berl, Germany on Tripadvisor. * berlin gay club wednesday *

14 plac sorted by traveler favorGay Bars • SpasFriedrichsha-Krzberg (Borough)Gay BarsFriedrichsha-Krzberg (Borough)Gay BarsFriedrichsha-Krzberg (Borough)What travelers are saygI thk Der Boiler is one of the bt snas Europe. Tripadvisor performs checks on a first time explorg the Berl darkroom gay scene s probably an okey place.

THE 10 BEST BERL GAY CLUBS & BARSGAY CLUBS & BARS BERL

Ready for Berl's LGBT nightlife? From top techno clubs to kky fetish bars and trendy cktail venu - this is THE bt of the Berl gay scene. * berlin gay club wednesday *

Tripadvisor performs checks on GNijmegen, The Netherlands868 ntributnsWe had drks at the very lively terrace of this gay-lbian bar on Simon-Dach-Straße. The German pal has been nsired a gay hotspot sce the early 1900s, and Berl’s LGBT nightlife ntu to partner Natalie and I recently spent almost a week Berl.

From pulsatg techno clubs and kky fetish bars, to trendy cktail venu and steamy sex clubs, the Berl gay scene has somethg for everybody.

QUEER & GAY BERL: YOUR GUI FOR LGBTQ+ BERL

* berlin gay club wednesday *

Ultimately, ’s a cy where LGBT travellers n experience the te meang of this article, I’ll be sharg the bt of Berl’s gay nightlife. From the origal ‘gaybourhood’ of Schoneberg to the urban streets of Krzberg, I’ll be diggg up the bt gay bars, nightclubs and parti. ? @ourtasteforlifeBerl’s origal ‘gaybourhood’It’s no secret that Berl is a cy steeped history and s LGBT scene is certaly no different.

As I already poted out, Berl has been at the centre of LGBT culture sce the early 1900s, when the cy was the unofficial gay pal of see, Berl has been a cy of ‘firsts’ on the road to LGBT equaly.

In the 1920s, Berl beme the first cy the world to have a gay district, and Schoneberg went on to host the first-ever gay monstratn recent years, several other gay districts have popped up around the cy and sprkl of the gay scene n be found everywhere.

BEAR-MAGAZINE.COM BERLIN GAY CLUB WEDNESDAY

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class="RubricName-fVtemz cLxcNi">Letter om Germany</span></a></div></div></div><h1 data-ttid="ContentHearHed" class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ ContentHearHed-NCyCC iUEiRd NbxED hpJvIc">Berl Nights</h1></div><div class="ContentHearAccredatn-lfctVB enhwXT ntent-hear__accredatn" data-ttid="ContentHearAccredatn"><div class="ContentHearDek-bIqFFZ Mtme">The thrall of techno.</div><div class="ContentHearByle-kmPyCa gvUmxJ"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW jvZaPI rponsive-asset ContentHearContributorImage-cvjZXn jKACOU"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa ContentHearContributorImage-cvjZXn jKACOU rponsive-image"><source media="(max-width: 767px)" srcSet=" 120w, 240w" siz="66px"/><source media="(m-width: 768px)" srcSet=" 120w, 240w" siz="66px"/><img alt="" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src="></picture></span><div class="ContentHearByleContent-dpPmNn DRFq"><div data-ttid="BylWrapper" class="BylWrapper-KIudk irTIfE byl ContentHearByl-cZqgyJ bqbBYQ"><p class="ByleWrapper-jWHrLH ivtvgj byle byl__byle" data-ttid="ByleWrapper" emProp="thor" emType="><span emProp="name" class="ByleNamWrapper-jbHncj fuDQVo"><span data-ttid="ByleName" class="ByleName-kwmrLn cYaBaU byle__name"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BylePreamble-iJolpQ iUEiRd jslZfG gnILss byle__preamble">By </span><a class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BaseLk-eNWuiM ByleLk-gEnFiw iUEiRd ggMZaT cXqSTL eErqIx byle__name-lk button" href="/ntributors/nick-pmgarten">Nick Pmgarten</a></span></span></p></div><time data-ttid="ContentHearPublishDate" dateTime="2014-03-17T00:00:00-04:00" class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ ContentHearPublishDate-eIBicG iUEiRd kYZrFA kEBrdf">March 17, 2014</time></div></div></div></div><div class="LightboxWrapper-dxsWBV hhylRt"><div class="ContentHearLeadAsset-hGbumP iWPCcH lead-asset ContentHearLeadAssetWrapper-hfXHEc fTrSlG lead-asset--width-smallle" data-ttid="ContentHearLeadAsset"><figure class="ContentHearLeadAssetContent-kOfYSG dRGWbI"><div class="ContentHearLeadAssetContentMedia-bLEIpi jjhWdS lead-asset__ntent__photo"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW jvZaPI rponsive-asset ContentHearRponsiveAsset-bREgIb khLUzS"><div data-tt="aspect-rat-ntaer" class="AspectRatContaer-bJHpJz btFTRh"><div class="aspect-rat--overlay-ntaer"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO KhjZz ContentHearRponsiveAsset-bREgIb khLUzS rponsive-image rponsive-image--expandable"><source media="(max-width: 767px)" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w, 960w" siz="100vw"/><source media="(m-width: 768px)" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w, 960w, 1280w, 1600w, 1920w, 2240w" siz="100vw"/><img alt="Bergha the “vampire night club to end all vampire night clubs” has been lled “half art project half social experiment.”" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src="></picture></div></div></span><div class="CaptnWrapper-jSZdqE iTuhkZ ptn ContentHearLeadAssetCaptn-hPWmSN kuCzGS"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ CaptnText-bHjzlu iUEiRd hWyo iXWezO ptn__text">Bergha, the “vampire night club to end all vampire night clubs,” has been lled “half art project, half social experiment.”</span><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ CaptnCred-ejegDm iUEiRd iicloT jbIJNS ptn__cred">Illtratn by Istvan Banyai</span></div></div></figure><div data-ttid="ContentHearLeadRailAnchor" class="ContentHearLeadRailAnchor-jYVcDc djtEof"></div></div></div></div></hear></div><div data-attribute-verso-pattern="article-body" class="ArticlePageContentBackGround-cNiFNN kbAoLA article-body__ntent"><div class="ActnBarWrapperContent-lasBkU cAHp"><div class="ActnBarWrapperComponent-cjwxLS bEeSLb"><div data-attr-viewport-monor="" class="ActnBarWrapper-dhxmQh kNjTbQ viewport-monor-anchor"><button id="bookmark" aria-label="Save this story" class="ActnBarButton-dyFOZU hQrwCF bookmark large-screen"><span class="ActnBarSendaryButtonPrimaryIn-isbvyN cAwccV bookmark-button-in"><svg 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22.1845V8.83866H20V23.9508Z"></path><path class="in-bookmark-fill" d="M23 3H20V0H19V3H16V4H19V7H20V4H23V3Z"></path></svg></span><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ ActnBarButtonText-bYXYuh iUEiRd bkefvo gkccfO">Save this story</span></button></div></div></div><div class="LightboxWrapper-dxsWBV hhylRt"><div class="ArticlePageChunksContent-etcMtP bwyLBj"><div data-ttid="ArticlePageChunks" class="ArticlePageChunks-fLyCVG Uozmo"><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK kHBDeH grid grid-margs grid-ems-2 ArticlePageChunksGrid-hfxa bjczjj grid-layout--adrail narrow wi-adrail"><div class="GridItem-buujkM stRKV grid--em grid-layout__ntent"><div class="BodyWrapper-kufPGa bDyAMU body body__ntaer article__body" data-journey-hook="client-ntent" data-ttid="BodyWrapper"><div class="body__ner-ntaer"><p class="has-dropp has-dropp__lead-standard-headg">The first person I met Berl was a boar-huntg iend of a iend, who agreed to talk to me only if I didn’t prt his name. He was his early forti, six and a half feet tall, mcular, lean, and fair, wh shaggy reddish-brown hair, some stubble, and a great al of self-nfince. He had on worn jeans, biker boots, a loose fad black T-shirt, and a srf, and yet I’ll nfs I found myself picturg him trim and tidy Heilberg duellg garb. Prenceptns n be hard to shake when you’re h town.</p><p class="paywall">It was a Sunday night the dregs of December, sleety and dark. We were at a bar Mte, the formerly bombed-out and abandoned East Berl district that was reclaimed by squatters, clubbers, and artists after the Wall me down and is now agleam wh fancy rtrants, galleri, and shops. Transplants often scribe Berl’s neighborhoods as analogu of New York’s, to asss where they f along the gentrifitn ntuum. Mte, they say, is SoHo. Like SoHo, is often full of tourists. But this bar, an early post-Wall pneer, had a gff, lol air.</p><p class="paywall">The boar hunter stirred an prso at arm’s length and regard me wh martial skepticism. He was a veteran of the cy’s after-hours party scene, but he seemed weary of . “Everyone knows about this,” he said. “You should wre stead about black rhos.” He’d recently bought fifteen thoand acr Namibia, a rhoceros prerve, to help support a nservatn program. He said, “I once shot an elephant.”</p><p class="paywall">He had moved to Berl om Düsseldorf 1993. He was a philosopher by trag (his bs rd had him as a “Dr.”) but an dtrialist by tra: he’d hered a manufacturg firm om his father, and had done well enough wh to pursue a life of pleasure and ease, though whout ostentatn, keepg wh the ethos of Berl. He’d recently returned om a four-week surfg trip to the Basque ast, where he and a girliend—two, actually: one for the first half of the trip, and one for the send—had lived out of a VW b. There were other women his life, among them a physician’s wife, whom he’d met onle. (“He gave her fake ts—Thank you, Mister!”) He scribed his plans for the followg weekend: a day huntg wild boar a fort on the cy’s outskirts, then a “sex party” (which should never be said whout a German accent) at an acquatance’s apartment, where he’d arrive wh one woman but pair up wh others (“It’s a seedy thg”), and, fally, perhaps, jt before Sunday dawn, Bergha.</p><p class="paywall">Bergha is a night club that opened 2004 an abandoned power plant what ed to be East Berl. The name is a mashup of the last syllable of s neighborhood, Friedrichsha, and the one across the Spree, Krzberg, on what was once the other si of the Wall. It is the most famo techno club the world—to Berl what Fenway is to Boston—and yet still kd of unrground and, as such, a microsm of Berl. The people I’d talked to who had been to Bergha—and there were many—njured ecstatic evengs, Boschian ntortns, and a dky Ardia that an Amerin hockey dad like me had never even imaged wantg to experience.</p><p class="paywall">Bergha’s renown rts on many attribut: the qualy of the mic, and of the d.j.s who prent ; the power and clary of the sound system; the eyeball-bendg nce of the weekend parti, which often spill to Monday morng; the strgent and myster door policy, and the menacg head doorman, wh a tattoo on his face; the majty and plexy of the terr; and the tolerant and dulgent atmosphere, most famoly s so-lled dark rooms, where patrons, gay and straight, n get on wh iends or strangers an anonymo murk. For some Berlers, Bergha is an elemental part of their weekly existence, a perfectly pched and refully nceived apotheosis of Berl’s post-Wall club culture. To pilgrims and many expats, is a temple of techno, a nsecrated space, a source of enchantment and wonr.</p><div><div class="ConsumerMarketgUnThemedWrapper-iUTMTf jssHut nsumer-marketg-un nsumer-marketg-un--article-mid-ntent" role="prentatn" aria-hidn="te"><div class="nsumer-marketg-un__slot nsumer-marketg-un__slot--article-mid-ntent nsumer-marketg-un__slot---ntent"></div><div class="journey-un"></div></div></div><p class="paywall">“It’s half art project, half social experiment,” a iend New York had told me. “It’s the vampire night club to end all vampire night clubs. People want somethg like here, but New York uld never metabolize .”</p><div data-attr-viewport-monor="le-recirc" class="le-recirc-wrapper le-recirc-observer-target-1 viewport-monor-anchor"></div><p class="paywall">“It’s a social-polil-enomic achievement,” another iend said. “It’s such a fuckg unirn.”</p><p class="paywall">“It’s dystopian and utopian,” a third said. “Prepare yourself.”</p><p class="paywall">The boar hunter had been gog to Bergha for years, maly for the mic and the sex. He said he preferred to, say, the KKatClub. “The sex clubs have bad mic,” he explaed. He avoid dgs, mostly. He drank alhol and ocsnally smoked damiana, a d herbal stimulant that is thought to have some aphrodisiac effects. “It’s like pot, except don’t make you stupid,” he said. Perhaps was for this reason that he had a more prosaic affectn for the place. He didn’t seem to see transcenntal terms. He had a Ttonic bluntns wh regard to sex. Typilly, he’d dance and then go to the dark room. He explaed that straight upl, ference to the predomantly gay clientele the dark rooms, often preferred the toilet stalls, but, for whatever reason, he didn’t like the ia of screwg on a toilet. He’d noticed recent viss to the dark room that, to judge by wanrg hands, the patrons were ls terted him than the woman he was wh. Also, he’d had two cell phon stolen. All this was a symptom of gentrifitn. “Bergha’s not as kky as ed to be, not as eccentric,” he said. “There are the easyJet people—Spanish people, Italians. The black-leather homosexuals are gone.” Apparently, they patronized the club downstairs—Lab.oratory, which has a separate entrance and a more sgle-md clientele. In Berl, offhand referenc to stanc of excs at Lab.oratory—oh, the thgs that men will do to each other!—are as monplace as bt-burger remendatns New York.</p><p class="paywall">After a moment, the boar hunter said, “We uld go to Bergha now. Would you like to go?”</p><div class="Contaer-bkChBi byNLHx"></div><p class="paywall">“Now?” I was jet-lagged. It was Sunday. He looked me up and down, the way Germans do when you walk to a rtrant. He didn’t thk I’d get . We ma a plan to meet there a week.</p><figure class="AssetEmbedWrapper-eVDQiB byBkf asset-embed"><div class="AssetEmbedAssetContaer-eJxoAx dBHGoQ asset-embed__asset-ntaer"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW kKwZhx rponsive-asset AssetEmbedRponsiveAsset-cXBNxi eCxVQK asset-embed__rponsive-asset"><div data-attr-viewport-monor="" class="RponsiveCartoonWrapper-iTMMjI eXTYsS rponsive-rtoon AssetEmbedRponsiveAsset-cXBNxi eCxVQK asset-embed__rponsive-asset viewport-monor-anchor"><a class="external-lk rponsive-rtoon__image-lk" data-event-click="{"element":"ExternalLk","outgogURL":"" href=" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa RponsiveCartoonImage-hzNqyc ikeCcH rponsive-rtoon__image rponsive-image"><noscript><img alt="“Come back—I n change”" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src=" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w, 960w, 1280w, 1600w" siz="100vw"/></noscript></picture></a><div class="CaptnWrapper-jSZdqE gdZTpI ptn RponsiveCartoonCaptn-dokfdF hJgaLQ rponsive-rtoon__ptn"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ CaptnText-bHjzlu iUEiRd hWyo bsWloa ptn__text">“Come back—I n change!”</span></div><div class="RponsiveCartoonCTA-eiqqMB iDCQRs"><div class="RponsiveCartoonCTAWrapper-CYIqa iTbFtf"><div class="RponsiveCartoonLkButtonWrapper-hqDAJK eSEhbj"><button aria-label="Copy lk to rtoon" class="BaseButton-bLlsy ButtonWrapper-xCepQ bqVKKv YsOBB button button--primary-pair RponsiveCartoonInButton-hBCBMq lpsjql" data-event-click="{"element":"Button"}" data-ttid="Button" type="button"><span class="ButtonLabel-cjAuJN bBWXSg button__label">Copy lk to rtoon</span><div class="ButtonInWrapper-gFdzAL bPDyTT button__in-ntaer"><svg class="in in-pylk" width="24" height="24" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" xmlns="><tle>Copy lk to rtoon</tle><g clip-path="url(#clip0_3732_178637)"><path fill-le="evenodd" clip-le="evenodd" d="M16.3488 10.5017C16.2107 10.7357 16.2926 11.035 16.5318 11.17C16.7709 11.3052 17.0767 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11.0956 12.5007 11.1525C13.9356 11.9632 14.4272 13.7587 13.5988 15.1628L11.5988 18.5529C10.7704 19.957 8.93555 20.4382 7.50068 19.6274C6.0658 18.8167 5.57417 17.0212 6.4026 15.6171L7.6526 13.4983Z" fill="black"></path></g><fs><clipPath id="clip0_3732_178637"><rect width="24" height="24" fill="whe"></rect></clipPath><clipPath id="clip1_3732_178637"><rect width="24" height="24" fill="whe"></rect></clipPath></fs></svg></div></button><div class="AlertWrapper-gvFATk MdjE RponsiveCartoonLkAlertPopup-BPAXn kdMXRM shoppg-alert" role="dialog"><div aria-hidn="te" role="prentatn" class="AlertArrow-daOgye AlLda alert-arrow"></div><div class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ AlertMsage-jgAjgo bVCFRm ifgabc cxFROy alert-msage"><p aria-hidn="te">Lk pied</p></div></div></div><button aria-label="Shop" class="BaseButton-bLlsy ButtonWrapper-xCepQ bqVKKv YsOBB button button--primary-pair RponsiveCartoonInButton-hBCBMq lpsjql" data-event-click="{"element":"Button"}" data-ttid="Button" type="button"><span class="ButtonLabel-cjAuJN bBWXSg button__label">Shop</span><div class="ButtonInWrapper-gFdzAL bPDyTT button__in-ntaer"><svg class="in in-rt" width="24" height="24" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" xmlns="><tle>Shop</tle><g clip-path="url(#clip0_3732_178638)"><path fill-le="evenodd" clip-le="evenodd" d="M4 3H2V4H4.23828L6.99617 15.2631C7.11483 15.6982 7.50998 16 7.96094 16H18.0365C18.4875 16 18.8826 15.6982 19.0013 15.2631L20.9648 7.26312C21.1383 6.62698 20.6594 6 20 6H10V7H20L18.0365 15H7.96094L5.03652 3H4.58055H4ZM10.0365 19C10.0365 19.5523 9.58881 20 9.03652 20C8.48424 20 8.03652 19.5523 8.03652 19C8.03652 18.4477 8.48424 18 9.03652 18C9.58881 18 10.0365 18.4477 10.0365 19ZM11.0365 19C11.0365 20.1046 10.1411 21 9.03652 21C7.93195 21 7.03652 20.1046 7.03652 19C7.03652 17.8954 7.93195 17 9.03652 17C10.1411 17 11.0365 17.8954 11.0365 19ZM18.0365 19C18.0365 19.5523 17.5888 20 17.0365 20C16.4842 20 16.0365 19.5523 16.0365 19C16.0365 18.4477 16.4842 18 17.0365 18C17.5888 18 18.0365 18.4477 18.0365 19ZM19.0365 19C19.0365 20.1046 18.1411 21 17.0365 21C15.932 21 15.0365 20.1046 15.0365 19C15.0365 17.8954 15.932 17 17.0365 17C18.1411 17 19.0365 17.8954 19.0365 19Z" fill="black"></path></g><fs><clipPath id="clip0_3732_178638"><rect width="24" height="24" fill="whe"></rect></clipPath><clipPath id="clip1_3732_178638"><rect width="24" height="24" fill="whe"></rect></clipPath></fs></svg></div></button></div></div></div></span></div></figure><p class="has-dropp has-dropp__lead-standard-headg paywall">The next morng, the siwalks Mte teemed wh cizens on their way to work. Through the wdows of an office buildg across the street om my hotel, you uld see young people by their cubicl. Somehow, I’d assumed that on Monday morngs everyone Berl would be lurkg a club somewhere or else sleepg off. But turns out there is a Berl of mms and gallery opengs, of the Bunstag and the Chancellery, of Holot remembrance and Naziphilia, of Turkish immigrants and amics on sabbatil, and even of ordary middle-class fai gog about their liv and pg to Wannsee on weekends. It’s jt that, if you are on techno time, you hardly see any of . You n’t fathom that, a few U-Bahn stops away, Angela Merkel is by pridg over the affairs of Europe.</p><p class="paywall">This particular Berl—cradle of techno culture, hotbed of lost weekends and lost mds—has been an object of ternatnal yearng and fascatn for more than twenty years. Berl is to electronic mic what Florence was to Renaissance art: ccible, arber, patron. Cred for this uld go as far back as Bismarck; the cy ow s peculiar fertily as much to the folli of statmen and generals as to any generatn of arnt youth. Cizens have spoken and sung for many years of the “<em>Berler Luft</em>”—“the nervo, endlsly quiverg Berl air,” as Conrad Alberti wrote 1889, “which works upon people like alhol, morphe, e, excg, spirg, relaxg, adly.”</p><p class="paywall">The First World War was a bracg fn. Defeat, poverty, flatn, speratn: the celebrated cultural efflorcence and social tolerance of the Weimar years arose out of, or spe of, a perhaps equally celebrated atmosphere of perversn and abandon. Berl was the whorehoe of Europe. War widows, or their children, would do anythg for a mark, even as a mark me to be worth practilly nothg (four trilln to a dollar at one pot 1923). The Kaiser’s censors and police were gone. In me the Content’s ntsia, wh their strong currenci and peculiar fetish. Sally Bowl at the Lady Wrmere, transvt at the Eldorado, “sugar-lickers” (perasts), <em>Münzis</em> (pregnant whor). Mel Gordon, “Voluptuo Panic: The Erotic World of Weimar Berl,” c the journalist Luigi Barzi: “The story went around that a male goose of which one cut the neck at the ecstatic moment would give you the most lic, enomil, and time-savg isson of all, as allowed you to enjoy sodomy, btialy, homosexualy, necrophilia, and sadism at one stroke. Gastronomy too, as one uld eat the goose afterward.”</p><p class="paywall">Apocryphal, one hop, but such was the rep. In some rpects, the notn of nce was as tegral as nce self. So people, those Weimar years, also me to gawk, or to get close enough at least for the “mystery-magic of foreignns,” as Christopher Isherwood wrote, to b off. A modified, self-nsc versn of the real thg existed even then. Isherwood ced Berl’s “ns of psdo-vice”: “Here screamg boys drag and monocled, Eton-cropped girls dner jackets play-acted the high jks of Sodom and Gomorrah, horrifyg the onlookers and reassurg them that Berl was still the most nt cy Europe.” Berl was already a brand.</p><div data-attr-viewport-monor="le-recirc" class="le-recirc-wrapper le-recirc-observer-target-2 viewport-monor-anchor"></div><p class="paywall">The Nazis closed the clubs, hound and extermated the homosexuals, and, the end, brought on the cy. Bombed and solate, trmatized by street fightg, starvatn, and mass rape, and ultimately rved up, Berl, after the war, barely heaved back to life. Wt Berl, surround on all sis by East Germany, survived primarily as a polil gture, a flagpole the sand and a thumb the Polburo’s eye. There was very ltle dtry, turnover, or travel or out. No rporatn uld take the polil risk or tolerate the barriers to merce. To enurage people to move there, the Wt German ernment gave out stipends and exemptns om ary service, so the cy tend to attract the Wt’s mavericks and oddballs—hippi, homosexuals, polil renegas—who shared the town wh the elrly and the soldiers watchg over them. In such hothoe isolatn, a small but fervid club scene took root.</p></div></div></div><div class="GridItem-buujkM fVLMby grid--em grid-layout__asi"><asi class="PersistentAsiWrapper-VGrR daRVRt persistent-asi" style="posn:absolute;top:to;height:to" data-ttid="PersistentAsiWrapper"><div class="StickyBoxWrapper-jfYB jxBcTH sticky-box"><div class="StickyBoxPrimary-dzWDWL cdhYoN sticky-box__primary"><div class="AdWrapper-dQtivb fZrssQ ad ad--rail"><div class="ad__slot ad__slot--rail" data-no-id="o9dqj9"></div></div><div class="ConsumerMarketgUnThemedWrapper-iUTMTf jssHut nsumer-marketg-un nsumer-marketg-un--display-rail" role="prentatn" aria-hidn="te"><div class="nsumer-marketg-un__slot nsumer-marketg-un__slot--display-rail"></div><div class="journey-un"></div></div></div><div class="StickyBoxPlaceholr-grPmrg dxAvXx"></div></div></asi></div></div><div class="RowWrapper-UmqTg HEhan full-bleed-ad row-mid-ntent-ad"><div class="StickyMidContentAdWrapper-fSBzwl drzyIa ad-stickymidntent"><div class="AdWrapper-dQtivb fZrssQ ad ad--mid-ntent should-hold-space"><div class="ad__slot ad__slot--mid-ntent" data-no-id="qtniku"></div></div></div></div><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK kHBDeH grid grid-margs grid-ems-2 ArticlePageChunksGrid-hfxa bjczjj grid-layout--adrail narrow wi-adrail"><div class="GridItem-buujkM stRKV grid--em grid-layout__ntent"><div class="BodyWrapper-kufPGa bDyAMU body body__ntaer article__body" data-journey-hook="client-ntent" data-ttid="BodyWrapper"><div class="body__ner-ntaer"><p class="paywall">In 1988, the founrs of a small rerd label, Interfisch, started throwg illegal all-night parti their office. The space, a Krzberg basement reached via ladr, had six-foot ceilgs. It took on the name UFO. The year before, Dimri Hegemann, one of the founrs, had travelled to Chigo to arrange a licensg al wh another label. While there, he had idly browsed through s so-lled whe labels—rough mos, not ready for sale—and picked out somethg strange. It was techno om Detro. Hegemann, a Wtphalian, who had moved to Berl 1978, was a milogist, a producer of Brish electronic mic, a fan of Amerin punk (pecially the Dead Kennedys), and the founr of an experimental electronic-mic ftival lled Berl Atonal, but he had never heard mic que like this. He brought a stack of Detro techno rerds back to Berl.</p><p class="has-dropp has-dropp__lead-standard-headg paywall">Electronic mic spans many genr, om the experimental bleeps and blurts that you might hear at the g of Berl’s CTM Ftival to the mega-popular sets performed by famo d.j.s like Skrillex and Avicii—which you won’t really fd Berl. The genr for which Berl is bt known, hoe and, pecially, techno, are mostly, as manifted there, nonmercial, rigoro, oteric, and both experimental and orthodox. The mic isn’t pop, although many elements of rive om and rm pop. It isn’t punk, although ow somethg to punk, spir and scene. It isn’t high art, eher. It is, fundamentally, <em>Gebrchsmik</em>—“utily mic,” as Pl Nettl, the Bohemian milogist, scribed dance mic, 1921. The utily, this se, is mostly that of providg sucr and pleasure, a sense of directn and purpose, to addled bodi and mds. The most characteristic subgenre, which peaked populary about a ago and has been explored to the edg of tolerabily ever sce, is mimal techno, a spare distillatn that people have sometim likened to the knockg of spoons on pots but which others parse as though were Brahms.</p><p class="paywall">Techno is repetive, relyg on subtle chang over time to trigue the ear. It chews lyrics, melody, and, arguably, harmonics. It don’t rolve. You don’t get crowd-pleasg drops. Its sential element is a basic four-on-the-floor beat—a 4/4 dictatorship which the bass dm, or s proxy, is stck on every beat, wh a snare on each “and.” It sounds like “boots and pants, boots and pants.” Say . Say aga. The pleasure repetn, sly referents, and the nature of the sound—the pth and texture of the low equenci or, the se of acid hoe, the squelchy bass of the Roland TB-303 synthizer. Hoe, which origated the gay dance clubs of Chigo and (ls so) New York the eighti, often featur a snare on the two and the four. “It’s to give people wh no rhythm a way to hold on to ,” a d.j. iend, my techno rabbi, told me. “It’s the grandma handle the shower.”</p><figure class="AssetEmbedWrapper-eVDQiB byBkf asset-embed"><div class="AssetEmbedAssetContaer-eJxoAx dBHGoQ asset-embed__asset-ntaer"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW kKwZhx rponsive-asset AssetEmbedRponsiveAsset-cXBNxi eCxVQK asset-embed__rponsive-asset"><div data-attr-viewport-monor="" class="RponsiveCartoonWrapper-iTMMjI eXTYsS rponsive-rtoon AssetEmbedRponsiveAsset-cXBNxi eCxVQK asset-embed__rponsive-asset viewport-monor-anchor"><a class="external-lk rponsive-rtoon__image-lk" data-event-click="{"element":"ExternalLk","outgogURL":"" href=" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa RponsiveCartoonImage-hzNqyc ikeCcH rponsive-rtoon__image rponsive-image"><noscript><img alt="“Look Peg you dont really have to drs like that for puter crime.”" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src=" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w, 960w, 1280w, 1600w" siz="100vw"/></noscript></picture></a><div class="CaptnWrapper-jSZdqE gdZTpI ptn RponsiveCartoonCaptn-dokfdF hJgaLQ rponsive-rtoon__ptn"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ CaptnText-bHjzlu iUEiRd hWyo bsWloa ptn__text">“Look, Peg, you don’t really have to drs like that for puter crime.”</span></div><div class="RponsiveCartoonCTA-eiqqMB iDCQRs"><div class="RponsiveCartoonCTAWrapper-CYIqa iTbFtf"><div class="RponsiveCartoonLkButtonWrapper-hqDAJK eSEhbj"><button aria-label="Copy lk to rtoon" class="BaseButton-bLlsy ButtonWrapper-xCepQ bqVKKv YsOBB button button--primary-pair RponsiveCartoonInButton-hBCBMq lpsjql" data-event-click="{"element":"Button"}" data-ttid="Button" type="button"><span class="ButtonLabel-cjAuJN bBWXSg button__label">Copy lk to rtoon</span><div 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13.009L5.53657 15.1278C4.432 17 5.0875 19.394 7.00068 20.475C8.91385 21.5558 11.3602 20.9144 12.4648 19.0422L14.4648 15.6521C15.5694 13.78 14.9139 11.3859 13.0007 10.305C12.8127 10.1988 12.6195 10.1091 12.4229 10.0357C12.2195 9.95975 11.9956 10.0515 11.8867 10.236C11.7221 10.5151 11.8911 10.8724 12.1932 11.0008C12.2973 11.0451 12.4 11.0956 12.5007 11.1525C13.9356 11.9632 14.4272 13.7587 13.5988 15.1628L11.5988 18.5529C10.7704 19.957 8.93555 20.4382 7.50068 19.6274C6.0658 18.8167 5.57417 17.0212 6.4026 15.6171L7.6526 13.4983Z" fill="black"></path></g><fs><clipPath id="clip0_3732_178637"><rect width="24" height="24" fill="whe"></rect></clipPath><clipPath id="clip1_3732_178637"><rect width="24" height="24" fill="whe"></rect></clipPath></fs></svg></div></button><div class="AlertWrapper-gvFATk MdjE RponsiveCartoonLkAlertPopup-BPAXn kdMXRM shoppg-alert" role="dialog"><div aria-hidn="te" role="prentatn" class="AlertArrow-daOgye AlLda alert-arrow"></div><div class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ AlertMsage-jgAjgo bVCFRm ifgabc cxFROy alert-msage"><p aria-hidn="te">Lk pied</p></div></div></div><button aria-label="Shop" class="BaseButton-bLlsy ButtonWrapper-xCepQ bqVKKv YsOBB button button--primary-pair RponsiveCartoonInButton-hBCBMq lpsjql" data-event-click="{"element":"Button"}" data-ttid="Button" type="button"><span class="ButtonLabel-cjAuJN bBWXSg button__label">Shop</span><div class="ButtonInWrapper-gFdzAL bPDyTT button__in-ntaer"><svg class="in in-rt" width="24" height="24" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" xmlns="><tle>Shop</tle><g clip-path="url(#clip0_3732_178638)"><path fill-le="evenodd" clip-le="evenodd" d="M4 3H2V4H4.23828L6.99617 15.2631C7.11483 15.6982 7.50998 16 7.96094 16H18.0365C18.4875 16 18.8826 15.6982 19.0013 15.2631L20.9648 7.26312C21.1383 6.62698 20.6594 6 20 6H10V7H20L18.0365 15H7.96094L5.03652 3H4.58055H4ZM10.0365 19C10.0365 19.5523 9.58881 20 9.03652 20C8.48424 20 8.03652 19.5523 8.03652 19C8.03652 18.4477 8.48424 18 9.03652 18C9.58881 18 10.0365 18.4477 10.0365 19ZM11.0365 19C11.0365 20.1046 10.1411 21 9.03652 21C7.93195 21 7.03652 20.1046 7.03652 19C7.03652 17.8954 7.93195 17 9.03652 17C10.1411 17 11.0365 17.8954 11.0365 19ZM18.0365 19C18.0365 19.5523 17.5888 20 17.0365 20C16.4842 20 16.0365 19.5523 16.0365 19C16.0365 18.4477 16.4842 18 17.0365 18C17.5888 18 18.0365 18.4477 18.0365 19ZM19.0365 19C19.0365 20.1046 18.1411 21 17.0365 21C15.932 21 15.0365 20.1046 15.0365 19C15.0365 17.8954 15.932 17 17.0365 17C18.1411 17 19.0365 17.8954 19.0365 19Z" fill="black"></path></g><fs><clipPath id="clip0_3732_178638"><rect width="24" height="24" fill="whe"></rect></clipPath><clipPath id="clip1_3732_178638"><rect width="24" height="24" fill="whe"></rect></clipPath></fs></svg></div></button></div></div></div></span></div></figure><p class="paywall">Purists object when you ll this mic E.D.M., though is disputably electronic mic ma for dancg. “Electronic dance mic,” lowerse, ed to be an acceptable tchall term for the entire range of genr (hoe, ep hoe, acid hoe, trance, techno, dtrial, dm and bass, dubstep, brostep, hardre, happy hardre, jungle, garage, etc.) created and performed on puters and synthizers. Shortened to E.D.M., however, the term has e to signify the party-crowd d.j. mic that has been the biggt pop phenomenon of the past half —Skrillex Vegas, bros the hoe. “E.D.M. took all the gayns and blackns out of ,” my techno rabbi explaed. “It’s fascistic, wh the d.j. on a stage.” Some prefer to ll mercial electronic mic. It don’t have much to do wh Berl, except to the extent that Berl f self opposn to . The nomenclature is nvoluted. To the dabbler, n seem that there are more genr than there are differenc between them.</p><p class="paywall">Techno emerged the early to mid-eighti and around Detro, at the hands of black middle-class d.j.s who for some reason ialized the glamour and suavy of European electronic pop and Italo dis, as reached them via <em>GQ</em> and the rad d.j. who lled himself the Electrifyg Mojo. They brought some rigor and a ht of Motown to and created an dtrial-soundg mic that was funky, futuristic, and kd of arch—evokg the to plants that were puttg the kids’ parents out of work.</p><p class="paywall">Techno was also velopg on s own Wt Germany, the unrground clubs of Frankfurt, as a logil extensn of the early electronic mic of Kraftwerk and of the rhythms and sounds to be med om the rerds of synthpop acts like Depeche Mo. Juan Atks, one of the godfathers of Detro techno, says he lifted the term om the futurist Alv Toffler, but may have been e Europe before anyone Detro took up, rerd stor, as a signatn for synthpop or for the sound that would e to be lled electro. The bate go on. The techno that would flourish Berl was the Detro strand that Hegemann brought back.</p><p class="paywall">As the pent-up unrground energy of the Wt spilled to the empty wast of the East, Hegemann and his partners, amid the sh to lonize relict spac, disvered a hidn posory a Mte basement beneath a former Wertheim partment store near what had been the Wall. It had been vant sce 1945. They set up the vlt and lled Tror. The space was symbolic of renciliatn: straddlg East and Wt, packed wh rnified Berlers—skheads and soccer hooligans om the East enzied harmony wh the gays and the hippi. The soundtrack was techno. In Detro, techno had hardly left a mark, but Berl the mic, and the Detro d.j.s who ma , found a home. Hegemann has lled techno “the most important mil movement of the last century.” In Europe, anyway, this statement do not necsarily seem hyperbolic. In some rpects, techno—and s variants and relativ—reprents a kd of post-Cold War folk mic, endlsly adaptable, performable by anyone. As Hegemann has said, “We knew that the ncept of the artist who drew all the attentn om the dience was ad. Techno was all about anonymy. The artist beme part of the public.” Not long ago, the Berl d.j. Boys Noize tweeted, “If you see a d.j. that a mic and screams ‘put your hands up’ throw a banana at him.”</p><p class="has-dropp has-dropp__lead-standard-headg paywall">Most Berl night clubs aren’t like the Amerin kd. Secury is light, l are lax. Generally, there is no bottle service, no V.I.P. sectn, and, Bergha asi, no velvet rope. In this rpect, they bear ltle remblance to, say, Stud 54, which, glor as may have been, begat a stratified style that metastasized to the mols-and-bankers Maybach-and-Cristal rat race that flected a generatn away om the clubbg life the U.S.</p><p class="paywall">Low-nsy neighborhoods make for lenient noise enforcement and therefore endls nights and powerful subwoofers; a liberal civic spir means no blue laws or last lls. In Berl, the thori don’t pecially md your drkg on the street or on the subway. Actually, you n do pretty much anythg on the street except jaywalk. It’s not a hierarchy town. There’s ltle punctn to work or to strive for entry to more éle social circl. “It don’t matter who you are here—or matters ls here, anyway, than elsewhere,” Robert Henke, a poser of electronic mic who performs ocsnally at Bergha, said.</p><div data-attr-viewport-monor="le-recirc" class="le-recirc-wrapper le-recirc-observer-target-3 viewport-monor-anchor"></div><p class="paywall">Wednday has always been a big night Berl, pecially for rint d.j.s tryg new thgs before a sympathetic crowd. Someone had told me to go to Farbfernseher, a small club an old televisn store unr the S-Bahn tracks on Skalzer Strasse. To kill time beforehand, I wanred the streets of Krzberg, expectg to fd bars and crowds, but on this bter, wdy night—I’d heard this weather system lled the Siberian Whip—there was no one around. What bars I passed were all but empty. On my last vis to Berl, the sprg of 1990, jt after the Wall fell, a iend and I had driven om southern Poland, expectg a kd of punk paradise. Instead, we found a solate sprawlg half cy wh no center and no discernible scene. In other words, a punk paradise, but we didn’t have ey to see . Here I was Berl aga, a generatn later, still wonrg where Berl was.</p><p class="paywall">Farbfernseher was a shuttered storeont on the ground floor of a graffied apartment hoe wh buildg s on eher si. I got there early, at around midnight, and claimed a spot along the wall by the bar, overlookg a small dance floor. The drk pric were listed a Pong-era font on the screen of an old black-and-whe TV. A few people sat on high bench along the walls, and a handful stood on the dance floor, watchg the d.j. To my left, a stocky guy a salmon-lored hoodie was bobbg and bouncg wh great enthiasm. His name was Ash. He and a iend, a d.j. and producer named J.P., were om Cambridge and were town for four nights of clubbg. “Our ma objective is to listen to lots of techno and get blasted,” Ash said. They were twenty-four and twenty-three. Mat, not dat. “This is what you might ll trospective dancg,” Ash said, lookg down at the floor. “This room needs some psychelics.” They poted out, wh approval, the analog Atari mixg ck that the d.j. was g: old school. The display brought to md an abac. “It’s stuff like this that mak me qutn people who say electronic mic is divorced om stmentalism,” J.P. said. “That’s a keyboard, basilly.”</p><figure class="AssetEmbedWrapper-eVDQiB byBkf asset-embed"><div class="AssetEmbedAssetContaer-eJxoAx dBHGoQ asset-embed__asset-ntaer"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW kKwZhx rponsive-asset AssetEmbedRponsiveAsset-cXBNxi eCxVQK asset-embed__rponsive-asset"><div data-attr-viewport-monor="" class="RponsiveCartoonWrapper-iTMMjI eXTYsS rponsive-rtoon AssetEmbedRponsiveAsset-cXBNxi eCxVQK asset-embed__rponsive-asset viewport-monor-anchor"><a class="external-lk rponsive-rtoon__image-lk" data-event-click="{"element":"ExternalLk","outgogURL":"" href=" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa RponsiveCartoonImage-hzNqyc ikeCcH rponsive-rtoon__image rponsive-image"><noscript><img alt="“The pk on are sashimi and I believe the ltle yellow on jt fell off the Pollock.”" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src=" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w, 960w, 1280w, 1600w" siz="100vw"/></noscript></picture></a><div class="CaptnWrapper-jSZdqE gdZTpI ptn RponsiveCartoonCaptn-dokfdF hJgaLQ rponsive-rtoon__ptn"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ CaptnText-bHjzlu iUEiRd hWyo bsWloa ptn__text">“The pk on are sashimi, and I believe the ltle yellow on jt fell off the Pollock.”</span></div><div class="RponsiveCartoonCTA-eiqqMB iDCQRs"><div class="RponsiveCartoonCTAWrapper-CYIqa iTbFtf"><div class="RponsiveCartoonLkButtonWrapper-hqDAJK eSEhbj"><button aria-label="Copy lk to rtoon" class="BaseButton-bLlsy ButtonWrapper-xCepQ bqVKKv YsOBB button button--primary-pair RponsiveCartoonInButton-hBCBMq lpsjql" data-event-click="{"element":"Button"}" data-ttid="Button" type="button"><span class="ButtonLabel-cjAuJN bBWXSg button__label">Copy lk to rtoon</span><div class="ButtonInWrapper-gFdzAL bPDyTT button__in-ntaer"><svg class="in 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21.5558 11.3602 20.9144 12.4648 19.0422L14.4648 15.6521C15.5694 13.78 14.9139 11.3859 13.0007 10.305C12.8127 10.1988 12.6195 10.1091 12.4229 10.0357C12.2195 9.95975 11.9956 10.0515 11.8867 10.236C11.7221 10.5151 11.8911 10.8724 12.1932 11.0008C12.2973 11.0451 12.4 11.0956 12.5007 11.1525C13.9356 11.9632 14.4272 13.7587 13.5988 15.1628L11.5988 18.5529C10.7704 19.957 8.93555 20.4382 7.50068 19.6274C6.0658 18.8167 5.57417 17.0212 6.4026 15.6171L7.6526 13.4983Z" fill="black"></path></g><fs><clipPath id="clip0_3732_178637"><rect width="24" height="24" fill="whe"></rect></clipPath><clipPath id="clip1_3732_178637"><rect width="24" height="24" fill="whe"></rect></clipPath></fs></svg></div></button><div class="AlertWrapper-gvFATk MdjE RponsiveCartoonLkAlertPopup-BPAXn kdMXRM shoppg-alert" role="dialog"><div aria-hidn="te" role="prentatn" class="AlertArrow-daOgye AlLda alert-arrow"></div><div class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ AlertMsage-jgAjgo bVCFRm ifgabc cxFROy alert-msage"><p aria-hidn="te">Lk pied</p></div></div></div><button aria-label="Shop" class="BaseButton-bLlsy ButtonWrapper-xCepQ bqVKKv YsOBB button button--primary-pair RponsiveCartoonInButton-hBCBMq lpsjql" data-event-click="{"element":"Button"}" data-ttid="Button" type="button"><span class="ButtonLabel-cjAuJN bBWXSg button__label">Shop</span><div class="ButtonInWrapper-gFdzAL bPDyTT button__in-ntaer"><svg class="in in-rt" width="24" height="24" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" xmlns="><tle>Shop</tle><g clip-path="url(#clip0_3732_178638)"><path fill-le="evenodd" clip-le="evenodd" d="M4 3H2V4H4.23828L6.99617 15.2631C7.11483 15.6982 7.50998 16 7.96094 16H18.0365C18.4875 16 18.8826 15.6982 19.0013 15.2631L20.9648 7.26312C21.1383 6.62698 20.6594 6 20 6H10V7H20L18.0365 15H7.96094L5.03652 3H4.58055H4ZM10.0365 19C10.0365 19.5523 9.58881 20 9.03652 20C8.48424 20 8.03652 19.5523 8.03652 19C8.03652 18.4477 8.48424 18 9.03652 18C9.58881 18 10.0365 18.4477 10.0365 19ZM11.0365 19C11.0365 20.1046 10.1411 21 9.03652 21C7.93195 21 7.03652 20.1046 7.03652 19C7.03652 17.8954 7.93195 17 9.03652 17C10.1411 17 11.0365 17.8954 11.0365 19ZM18.0365 19C18.0365 19.5523 17.5888 20 17.0365 20C16.4842 20 16.0365 19.5523 16.0365 19C16.0365 18.4477 16.4842 18 17.0365 18C17.5888 18 18.0365 18.4477 18.0365 19ZM19.0365 19C19.0365 20.1046 18.1411 21 17.0365 21C15.932 21 15.0365 20.1046 15.0365 19C15.0365 17.8954 15.932 17 17.0365 17C18.1411 17 19.0365 17.8954 19.0365 19Z" fill="black"></path></g><fs><clipPath id="clip0_3732_178638"><rect width="24" height="24" fill="whe"></rect></clipPath><clipPath id="clip1_3732_178638"><rect width="24" height="24" fill="whe"></rect></clipPath></fs></svg></div></button></div></div></div></span></div></figure><p class="paywall">At around 2:30 <em class="small">A.M.</em>, I left for Tror. The walk was about a e along serted streets, past giant apartment blocks. It was like a zombie movie set the outskirts of Helski. I tacked toward a pair of giant smoktacks, red lights blkg slow. The origal Tror closed 2005, and eventually the land was sold to a veloper. In 2007, Hegemann and his partners opened a new Tror a gigantic missned power plant on Köpenicker Strasse, on the Spree. I had no trouble gettg . Insi, an asslt of poundg primal techno lured me down a rridor of smoke and strob, to a smoky basement, figur appearg and disappearg like ships fog. It didn’t seem crowd, but everyone looked to be a world of his own, some speedy, others half tatonic. The mic was mcular, unrelentg. The d.j. stood behd steel bars, as though a cell, and prsed buttons on two laptops. I got a beer om a stern bartenr and went to stand ont of a wall of old blackened safe-pos box om Wertheim. One uld admire this mic—the rigor, the noise, the dtrial badassns of —but after a while began to seem absurd. Ash and J.P. appeared out of the fog, and we stood together awhile, watchg. Sttered about were men tight T-shirts makg severe mov. “This is the solary-rave, molish-your-own-personaly school!” Ash shouted. Later, he remarked, wh somethg approachg admiratn, “That was the sgle most opprsive club atmosphere I’ve ever enuntered.” I lasted eighty-four mut.</p><p class="has-dropp has-dropp__lead-standard-headg paywall">I returned the next day, the late afternoon, havg all but missed whatever daylight the Siberian Whip would perm. The offic were upstairs, shabby and pleasant, wh a backstage vibe. Some gnt young dus skulked about. Hegemann, a fad hoodie, was at his sk, nibblg om a bag of lirice and talkg German wh a lleague over photos of the s of Detro.</p><p class="paywall">“I’m a space pneer,” he said. “My missn is to transform dtrial s to cultural spac. I have ias. We save ci, you know? We are like a nsultg firm. I uld save Detro.”</p></div></div></div><div class="GridItem-buujkM fVLMby grid--em grid-layout__asi"><div class="StickyBoxWrapper-jfYB jxBcTH sticky-box"><div class="StickyBoxPrimary-dzWDWL cdhYoN sticky-box__primary"></div><div class="StickyBoxPlaceholr-grPmrg dxAvXx"></div></div></div></div><div class="RowWrapper-UmqTg HEhan full-bleed-ad row-mid-ntent-ad"><div class="StickyMidContentAdWrapper-fSBzwl drzyIa ad-stickymidntent"><div class="AdWrapper-dQtivb fZrssQ ad ad--mid-ntent should-hold-space"><div class="ad__slot ad__slot--mid-ntent" data-no-id="x5e3sc"></div></div></div></div><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK kHBDeH grid grid-margs grid-ems-2 ArticlePageChunksGrid-hfxa bjczjj grid-layout--adrail narrow wi-adrail"><div class="GridItem-buujkM stRKV grid--em grid-layout__ntent"><div class="BodyWrapper-kufPGa bDyAMU body body__ntaer article__body" data-journey-hook="client-ntent" data-ttid="BodyWrapper"><div class="body__ner-ntaer"><p class="paywall">Hegemann went on, “The mic me to om Detro. We got the k when the k was h. Now I’m olr, the mic’s olr. It’s not h. We have petn. Techno is known. It is nearly pop. But has not lost the tensy.”</p><p class="paywall">Downstairs, the techno vlt, now whout smoke, strob, or ral asslt, seemed no more remarkable than a aterny tap room. The bank-vlt box had been salvaged om the origal Tror. Their rernatn here hted at the creep of affectatn and nostalgia the techno culture of Berl. We went up a stairwell and emerged to the ma power plant—an old East German distance-heatg facily that had served Mte until 1996. It was now a vast empty thedral of ncrete, wh towerg pillars and vlts, arne markgs, and a trace of dky natural light. Hegemann and his partners were llg this space Kraftwerk (<em>natürlich</em>) and didn’t know que what to do wh . To get up to , for safety and fire, they’d need to vt lns of dollars that they didn’t have but hoped to pry om the Cy of Berl, unr the ratnale of ernment support for an sential cultural dtry and tourism draw. In the gloom, you uld image the rhythmic clamor of the old turb and pumps—the diments of techno.</p><p class="has-dropp has-dropp__lead-standard-headg paywall">The post-Wall abundance of relict buildg and excs hog was cisive. “Empty spac allowed there to be a club culture,” Robert Henke said. “Wh no empty space, you get a closed-at-2 <em class="small">A.M.,</em> rtrictive-alhol culture.” At first, the reclamatn seemed slapdash, improvisatnal, anarchic, as squatters took over buildgs and neighborhoods and set off a perd of cultural ferment. But the powers that be had been dreamg up velopments for years before the Wall me down, and now—amid a boom real-tate speculatn and vtment (everyone spoke of the Swes)—empty space, and the sense of wildns that wh , has bee harr to e by. “Flats are gettg more expensive,” Hegemann said. “But we still have many ee spac. This is the secret for why Berl is still alive.”</p><p class="paywall">Some empty spac have pleted their life cycl. One afternoon, I vised the old Reichsbahnbunker, a five-story fortrs of rerced ncrete built by the Nazis 1942 as an air-raid shelter. The Soviets turned to a jail for P.O.W.s. Then was ed to store bananas and other tropil u. It was abandoned. In the neti, beme an famo techno night club, the Bunker. No ventilatn, no fire exs. The ernment eventually shut down. In 2003, an advertisg executive and his wife bought the buildg and nverted to a mm to hoe their llectn of ntemporary art. They also built a glass-and-steel penthoe on the roof, to hoe themselv. Now the llectn is open to the public, by appotment only. I joed a tour one afternoon. The gui, a young art stunt wh a sweet monotone, took to a cell-like space featurg giant manipulated photographs of the night sky, by Thomas Ruff, and explaed that had been the origal dark room of Berl. “It was very extreme,” she said. “It was hot, damp, loud, and dark. It was said to be the harst club the world. I’m sure you n image the thgs.” She gave a y se.</p><p class="has-dropp has-dropp__lead-standard-headg paywall">Except for Lisbon, Berl is the cheapt pal Wtern Europe. This spe beg the pal of the ntent’s richt untry. Its populatn is still lower than was at the outset of the Send World War. It’s a ltle like a mounta town wh ski bums and tstafarians cyclg through. The kids e to play, not to stay. Crammed to their WGs (<em>Wohngemeschaften</em>, or “shared flats”), they luxuriate cheap rents, idle hours, and a pric and creative hort. What had been a very German scene beme, a ago, pan-European, wh the rise of cheap air travel and subsidized unemployment. Then me the Amerins. It n be hard to fd young people willg to work more than three days a week. And yet n also be hard for someone who is workg three days a week, and who is earng the low wag that are typil of Berl, to salt away enough money to leave—to afford, say, the first month’s rent London or New York. So favors those who have some money to spare or who don’t re. One ex-Berler said, “It’s sprg break for <em class="small">RISD</em> kids.”</p><p class="paywall">In recent years, there has been more the way of regular employment. There are tech startups, which attract engeers. Berl is Europe’s mobile-gamg hub, wh the headquarters of Wooga. There are ll centers, staffed by legns of young people pullg relatively arduo shifts, and a number of succsful startups ground the electronic-mic scene: SoundCloud, Ableton, Native Instments. Techno has quietly been profsnalized, attractg private and ernment pal.</p><div data-attr-viewport-monor="le-recirc" class="le-recirc-wrapper le-recirc-observer-target-4 viewport-monor-anchor"></div><p class="paywall">Ewan Pearson, a d.j. and producer, ma his bon the U.K. rave scene the neti and moved to Berl 2003, for a clubbg culture he found to be unpretent and, if not temperate, then at least benign. “I’m om the Wt Midlands,” he told me. “Every time you went out, you were primed for danger.”</p><p class="paywall">He and his wife, Carole Dcker, a Bryn Mawr graduate who me to Berl 2003 to pursue a master’s archectural theory, have what pass Berl for a bourgeois life. Most weekends, he travels around Europe for d.j. gigs. She helped to lnch Vice Media Germany, then moved to SoundCloud, and now she is an executive the Berl office of Etsy, the onle retailer of vtage and handma stuff.</p><figure class="AssetEmbedWrapper-eVDQiB byBkf asset-embed"><div class="AssetEmbedAssetContaer-eJxoAx dBHGoQ asset-embed__asset-ntaer"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW kKwZhx rponsive-asset AssetEmbedRponsiveAsset-cXBNxi eCxVQK asset-embed__rponsive-asset"><div data-attr-viewport-monor="" class="RponsiveCartoonWrapper-iTMMjI eXTYsS rponsive-rtoon AssetEmbedRponsiveAsset-cXBNxi eCxVQK asset-embed__rponsive-asset viewport-monor-anchor"><a class="external-lk rponsive-rtoon__image-lk" data-event-click="{"element":"ExternalLk","outgogURL":"" href=" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa RponsiveCartoonImage-hzNqyc ikeCcH rponsive-rtoon__image rponsive-image"><noscript><img alt="“The medic all taste pretty good—lets approve them.”" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src=" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w, 960w, 1280w, 1600w" siz="100vw"/></noscript></picture></a><div class="CaptnWrapper-jSZdqE gdZTpI ptn RponsiveCartoonCaptn-dokfdF hJgaLQ rponsive-rtoon__ptn"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ CaptnText-bHjzlu iUEiRd hWyo bsWloa ptn__text">“The medic all taste pretty good—let’s approve them.”</span></div><div class="RponsiveCartoonCTA-eiqqMB iDCQRs"><div class="RponsiveCartoonCTAWrapper-CYIqa iTbFtf"><div class="RponsiveCartoonLkButtonWrapper-hqDAJK eSEhbj"><button aria-label="Copy lk to rtoon" class="BaseButton-bLlsy ButtonWrapper-xCepQ bqVKKv YsOBB button button--primary-pair RponsiveCartoonInButton-hBCBMq lpsjql" data-event-click="{"element":"Button"}" data-ttid="Button" type="button"><span class="ButtonLabel-cjAuJN bBWXSg button__label">Copy lk to rtoon</span><div class="ButtonInWrapper-gFdzAL bPDyTT button__in-ntaer"><svg class="in in-pylk" width="24" height="24" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" xmlns="><tle>Copy lk to rtoon</tle><g clip-path="url(#clip0_3732_178637)"><path fill-le="evenodd" clip-le="evenodd" d="M16.3488 10.5017C16.2107 10.7357 16.2926 11.035 16.5318 11.17C16.7709 11.3052 17.0767 11.225 17.2148 10.991L18.4648 8.87225C19.5694 7.00002 18.9139 4.60601 17.0007 3.52508C15.0875 2.44415 12.6412 3.08562 11.5366 4.95785L9.53657 8.34782C8.432 10.22 9.08751 12.6141 11.0007 13.6949C11.1888 13.8012 11.382 13.8908 11.5785 13.9642C11.7819 14.0403 12.0058 13.9485 12.1147 13.764C12.2794 13.4849 12.1103 13.1276 11.8083 12.9992C11.7041 12.9549 11.6014 12.9044 11.5007 12.8475C10.0658 12.0368 9.57417 10.2413 10.4026 8.83712L12.4026 5.44715C13.2311 4.04298 15.0658 3.56187 16.5007 4.37257C17.9356 5.18327 18.4272 6.97878 17.5988 8.38295L16.3488 10.5017ZM7.6526 13.4983C7.79067 13.2643 7.70873 12.965 7.46959 12.8299C7.23044 12.6948 6.92464 12.775 6.78657 13.009L5.53657 15.1278C4.432 17 5.0875 19.394 7.00068 20.475C8.91385 21.5558 11.3602 20.9144 12.4648 19.0422L14.4648 15.6521C15.5694 13.78 14.9139 11.3859 13.0007 10.305C12.8127 10.1988 12.6195 10.1091 12.4229 10.0357C12.2195 9.95975 11.9956 10.0515 11.8867 10.236C11.7221 10.5151 11.8911 10.8724 12.1932 11.0008C12.2973 11.0451 12.4 11.0956 12.5007 11.1525C13.9356 11.9632 14.4272 13.7587 13.5988 15.1628L11.5988 18.5529C10.7704 19.957 8.93555 20.4382 7.50068 19.6274C6.0658 18.8167 5.57417 17.0212 6.4026 15.6171L7.6526 13.4983Z" fill="black"></path></g><fs><clipPath id="clip0_3732_178637"><rect width="24" height="24" fill="whe"></rect></clipPath><clipPath id="clip1_3732_178637"><rect width="24" height="24" fill="whe"></rect></clipPath></fs></svg></div></button><div class="AlertWrapper-gvFATk MdjE RponsiveCartoonLkAlertPopup-BPAXn kdMXRM shoppg-alert" role="dialog"><div aria-hidn="te" role="prentatn" class="AlertArrow-daOgye AlLda alert-arrow"></div><div class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ AlertMsage-jgAjgo bVCFRm ifgabc cxFROy alert-msage"><p aria-hidn="te">Lk pied</p></div></div></div><button aria-label="Shop" class="BaseButton-bLlsy ButtonWrapper-xCepQ bqVKKv YsOBB button button--primary-pair RponsiveCartoonInButton-hBCBMq lpsjql" data-event-click="{"element":"Button"}" data-ttid="Button" type="button"><span class="ButtonLabel-cjAuJN bBWXSg button__label">Shop</span><div class="ButtonInWrapper-gFdzAL bPDyTT button__in-ntaer"><svg class="in in-rt" width="24" height="24" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" xmlns="><tle>Shop</tle><g clip-path="url(#clip0_3732_178638)"><path fill-le="evenodd" clip-le="evenodd" d="M4 3H2V4H4.23828L6.99617 15.2631C7.11483 15.6982 7.50998 16 7.96094 16H18.0365C18.4875 16 18.8826 15.6982 19.0013 15.2631L20.9648 7.26312C21.1383 6.62698 20.6594 6 20 6H10V7H20L18.0365 15H7.96094L5.03652 3H4.58055H4ZM10.0365 19C10.0365 19.5523 9.58881 20 9.03652 20C8.48424 20 8.03652 19.5523 8.03652 19C8.03652 18.4477 8.48424 18 9.03652 18C9.58881 18 10.0365 18.4477 10.0365 19ZM11.0365 19C11.0365 20.1046 10.1411 21 9.03652 21C7.93195 21 7.03652 20.1046 7.03652 19C7.03652 17.8954 7.93195 17 9.03652 17C10.1411 17 11.0365 17.8954 11.0365 19ZM18.0365 19C18.0365 19.5523 17.5888 20 17.0365 20C16.4842 20 16.0365 19.5523 16.0365 19C16.0365 18.4477 16.4842 18 17.0365 18C17.5888 18 18.0365 18.4477 18.0365 19ZM19.0365 19C19.0365 20.1046 18.1411 21 17.0365 21C15.932 21 15.0365 20.1046 15.0365 19C15.0365 17.8954 15.932 17 17.0365 17C18.1411 17 19.0365 17.8954 19.0365 19Z" fill="black"></path></g><fs><clipPath id="clip0_3732_178638"><rect width="24" height="24" fill="whe"></rect></clipPath><clipPath id="clip1_3732_178638"><rect width="24" height="24" fill="whe"></rect></clipPath></fs></svg></div></button></div></div></div></span></div></figure><p class="paywall">Pearson was featured “Feiern” (“Party”), a 2006 documentary about the Berl club scene. After scribg the vortex to which one n disappear on a strong night, Pearson, wry and already gog a ltle gray (he’s forty-one now), remarks, “Don’t fet to go home.” The le gave the film s English tle and beme a tchphrase among the clubbers of his generatn, a click of the slippers this particular Oz. In a way, ’s an accintal mantra for the scene’s survivors, those who have fashned a daytime life out of all those nights, and who have found a way to mellow a b wh age, whout qutg entirely.</p><p class="paywall">I’d been warned by a few adherents about what they lled “the Berl ja,” the cynicism of the lols, native or adopted, toward the naïve enthiasms of outsirs. Nearly everyone I talked to nsired Berl’s peak—s ft, purt, most tertg, thentic, blissful perd—to have occurred a year or two before he or she arrived. Newers perpetually tch the tail end and stake their claim to the remnants. Anytime an article out about what you might ll the <em>Berlgeist</em>—how hip the cy is, or no longer is—Berlers stick their fgers down their throats.</p><p class="paywall">The wrer Gion Lewis-Krs observed, the Berl chapter of “A Sense of Directn,” his 2012 pilgrimage memoir, “What the word ‘over’ really means is that your expectatns of a place, your fantasi of who you might have bee there, have been nfound by the persistence of you.”</p><p class="paywall">Each generatn fds a Berl to tt that persistence. One night, I had a drk wh two sisters om the suburbs of Chigo, Arielle and Ada Bier, formerly performance artists of a kd, who had recently settled Berl, which their grandparents were forced out of the late thirti. Ada was terted queer Berl and liked to go to Homopatik—an all-weekend gay party at a club lled Aboutblank—and the Sunday-night Pork party at Ficken 3000. (Its Web se: “Drk – Dance – Strip – Fuck. Mic for prostus, die anti-hs, pk noise, raw static, synth cherry pop, spunk rock, ck ’n’ hole, artre + lo-fi 4 low lif.”)</p><p class="paywall">Arielle mentned, wh some disda, an advertisement for Co-Cola that had been makg the rounds, which a karaoke venr on a bicycle sets up his karaoke mache Merpark, Prenzler Berg, which is known for s flea market, and before long has an amphheatre full of hipsters joyfully takg part. Later that night, I watched the ad a few tim and wonred how the jad Berlers had been persuad to rry on like that for the Co-Cola Company. The next day, I had ffee wh Tilman Brembs, a very early visor to Tror. He worked for a stg agency, <em class="small">DEEBEEPHUNKY</em>, one of the biggt Berl; had a portfol of a thoand young Berlers as mols and actors for hire, and had done ads for Microsoft, <em class="small">IKEA</em>, and McDonald’s. It turned out that he had st that Co-Cola mpaign. He told me that the kids who appeared on mera were well paid. Goodbye, ja.</p><p class="paywall">Brembs had e to Berl 1982—ary-service avoidance. “The techno movement was like a send puberty for me,” he said. When he arrived at Tror, he helped tend bar and clean up after the parti. “In the early years, there was no nng water. We had buckets of water to wash wh. It was a crazy time. It was magic. Everythg was possible. There were not so many tourists. We had a lot of English om the Allied Forc. They got out of their bas at night and they were full of dgs. Then they me no more. Probably they were arrted. They brought a different style, the ravers, the Ecstasy, the big prted T-shirts.” At the clubs, he went on, “we had the hooligans, all the rough guys, together wh the gays. There was no vlence. Maybe was the Ecstasy. There was a Wild East atmosphere. People robbed shops. The police, they drove Trabants and were not fast enough for all the Golf GTEs. We preferred to take speed. It was the speed ers vers the ke ers. The ke people were arrogant. But the dgs were not the motor of the movement.”</p><div data-attr-viewport-monor="le-recirc" class="le-recirc-wrapper le-recirc-observer-target-5 viewport-monor-anchor"></div><p class="paywall">He’s been fdg ways to palize on techno ever sce. In the neti, he was a sanctned photographer at Tror (“The Bunker was too hard for me”). He put ten thoand photos onle 2007, unr the headg “Zemasche” (“Time Mache”). He’d started a pany wh D.J. Tanh, an early techno pneer Berl, sellg mouflage fabrics and party gear. For a while, Brembs worked for the Love Para, the street jubilee that was ncelled 2010, after twenty-one people were killed a stampe—the Altamont of techno. He is married to a woman om New Hampshire and livg Prenzler Berg (Park Slope), and for the most part no longer spends much time the clubs.</p><p class="has-dropp has-dropp__lead-standard-headg paywall">In the neti, two Bunker regulars, Michael Tfele and Norbert Thormann, began throwg their own gay sex parti, lled Snax, at var s around the cy. Around 1999, they opened a dance club a tra-repair pot Friedrichsha, which they lled Ostgut. It was sentially a gay club voted to techno mic, but was mixed-iendly—open to women and straight men. Two years later, they started Panorama Bar, a separate space upstairs, which was straighter, and played hoe mic and lighter techno. Downstairs were the burly, bare-chted men mo pants and leather boots. Upstairs you had all kds. The techno clubs of Mte didn’t yet rely so much on the gay scene, and the gay clubs were ls attentive to the qualy of the mic. Ostgut was a marriage of the two, and as such created somethg new—a gay club wh mastream appeal. It beme a kd of distillatn of the neti scene. In many rpects, Berl’s queer culture is the cy’s most sential and distguishg element—the agulant and the zt. It was th the twenti and pre-1989 Wt Berl, and remas so today. The clubs are s public face. No one Berl is ma nervo or embarrassed by the ia of gog to a gay club.</p><p class="paywall">Ostgut closed 2003, and the buildg was torn down to make way for a sports arena. A year later, Tfele and Thormann opened Bergha. Not much is known about them. Thormann is a former fashn photographer. They like ballet. They never give terviews or pose for pictur, part bee they value their privacy and part bee of a kd of unrground of silence, exile, and cunng—a batn, perhaps, of vtigial Stasi-era paranoia, punkish disda for the media, and an embrace of the techno-culture virtue of anonymy. Whatever the se, has add to the club’s mystique, and so one uld unrstand their not wantg to change. By all acunts, they make a lot of money. It is remarkable, a high-turnover town, that the place has been able to sta the spell for so long.</p><p class="paywall">People stra to expla Bergha’s appeal. The effort is wily emed futile (to say nothg of blasphemo). This may be a by-product of psychotropic dgs and the effabily of chemil transcennce. Tal of nights out are like other people’s reunted dreams.</p><figure class="AssetEmbedWrapper-eVDQiB byBkf asset-embed"><div class="AssetEmbedAssetContaer-eJxoAx dBHGoQ asset-embed__asset-ntaer"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW kKwZhx rponsive-asset AssetEmbedRponsiveAsset-cXBNxi eCxVQK asset-embed__rponsive-asset"><div data-attr-viewport-monor="" class="RponsiveCartoonWrapper-iTMMjI eXTYsS rponsive-rtoon AssetEmbedRponsiveAsset-cXBNxi eCxVQK asset-embed__rponsive-asset viewport-monor-anchor"><a class="external-lk rponsive-rtoon__image-lk" data-event-click="{"element":"ExternalLk","outgogURL":"" href=" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa RponsiveCartoonImage-hzNqyc ikeCcH rponsive-rtoon__image rponsive-image"><noscript><img alt="“Did you jt do a rooster”" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src=" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w, 960w, 1280w, 1600w" siz="100vw"/></noscript></picture></a><div class="CaptnWrapper-jSZdqE gdZTpI ptn RponsiveCartoonCaptn-dokfdF hJgaLQ rponsive-rtoon__ptn"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ CaptnText-bHjzlu iUEiRd hWyo bsWloa ptn__text">“Did you jt do a rooster?”</span></div><div class="RponsiveCartoonCTA-eiqqMB iDCQRs"><div class="RponsiveCartoonCTAWrapper-CYIqa iTbFtf"><div class="RponsiveCartoonLkButtonWrapper-hqDAJK eSEhbj"><button aria-label="Copy lk to rtoon" class="BaseButton-bLlsy ButtonWrapper-xCepQ bqVKKv YsOBB button button--primary-pair RponsiveCartoonInButton-hBCBMq lpsjql" data-event-click="{"element":"Button"}" data-ttid="Button" type="button"><span class="ButtonLabel-cjAuJN bBWXSg button__label">Copy lk to rtoon</span><div class="ButtonInWrapper-gFdzAL bPDyTT button__in-ntaer"><svg class="in in-pylk" width="24" height="24" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" xmlns="><tle>Copy lk to rtoon</tle><g clip-path="url(#clip0_3732_178637)"><path fill-le="evenodd" clip-le="evenodd" d="M16.3488 10.5017C16.2107 10.7357 16.2926 11.035 16.5318 11.17C16.7709 11.3052 17.0767 11.225 17.2148 10.991L18.4648 8.87225C19.5694 7.00002 18.9139 4.60601 17.0007 3.52508C15.0875 2.44415 12.6412 3.08562 11.5366 4.95785L9.53657 8.34782C8.432 10.22 9.08751 12.6141 11.0007 13.6949C11.1888 13.8012 11.382 13.8908 11.5785 13.9642C11.7819 14.0403 12.0058 13.9485 12.1147 13.764C12.2794 13.4849 12.1103 13.1276 11.8083 12.9992C11.7041 12.9549 11.6014 12.9044 11.5007 12.8475C10.0658 12.0368 9.57417 10.2413 10.4026 8.83712L12.4026 5.44715C13.2311 4.04298 15.0658 3.56187 16.5007 4.37257C17.9356 5.18327 18.4272 6.97878 17.5988 8.38295L16.3488 10.5017ZM7.6526 13.4983C7.79067 13.2643 7.70873 12.965 7.46959 12.8299C7.23044 12.6948 6.92464 12.775 6.78657 13.009L5.53657 15.1278C4.432 17 5.0875 19.394 7.00068 20.475C8.91385 21.5558 11.3602 20.9144 12.4648 19.0422L14.4648 15.6521C15.5694 13.78 14.9139 11.3859 13.0007 10.305C12.8127 10.1988 12.6195 10.1091 12.4229 10.0357C12.2195 9.95975 11.9956 10.0515 11.8867 10.236C11.7221 10.5151 11.8911 10.8724 12.1932 11.0008C12.2973 11.0451 12.4 11.0956 12.5007 11.1525C13.9356 11.9632 14.4272 13.7587 13.5988 15.1628L11.5988 18.5529C10.7704 19.957 8.93555 20.4382 7.50068 19.6274C6.0658 18.8167 5.57417 17.0212 6.4026 15.6171L7.6526 13.4983Z" fill="black"></path></g><fs><clipPath id="clip0_3732_178637"><rect width="24" height="24" fill="whe"></rect></clipPath><clipPath id="clip1_3732_178637"><rect width="24" height="24" fill="whe"></rect></clipPath></fs></svg></div></button><div class="AlertWrapper-gvFATk MdjE RponsiveCartoonLkAlertPopup-BPAXn kdMXRM shoppg-alert" role="dialog"><div aria-hidn="te" role="prentatn" class="AlertArrow-daOgye AlLda alert-arrow"></div><div class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ AlertMsage-jgAjgo bVCFRm ifgabc cxFROy alert-msage"><p aria-hidn="te">Lk pied</p></div></div></div><button aria-label="Shop" class="BaseButton-bLlsy ButtonWrapper-xCepQ bqVKKv YsOBB button button--primary-pair RponsiveCartoonInButton-hBCBMq lpsjql" data-event-click="{"element":"Button"}" data-ttid="Button" type="button"><span class="ButtonLabel-cjAuJN bBWXSg button__label">Shop</span><div class="ButtonInWrapper-gFdzAL bPDyTT button__in-ntaer"><svg class="in in-rt" width="24" height="24" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" xmlns="><tle>Shop</tle><g clip-path="url(#clip0_3732_178638)"><path fill-le="evenodd" clip-le="evenodd" d="M4 3H2V4H4.23828L6.99617 15.2631C7.11483 15.6982 7.50998 16 7.96094 16H18.0365C18.4875 16 18.8826 15.6982 19.0013 15.2631L20.9648 7.26312C21.1383 6.62698 20.6594 6 20 6H10V7H20L18.0365 15H7.96094L5.03652 3H4.58055H4ZM10.0365 19C10.0365 19.5523 9.58881 20 9.03652 20C8.48424 20 8.03652 19.5523 8.03652 19C8.03652 18.4477 8.48424 18 9.03652 18C9.58881 18 10.0365 18.4477 10.0365 19ZM11.0365 19C11.0365 20.1046 10.1411 21 9.03652 21C7.93195 21 7.03652 20.1046 7.03652 19C7.03652 17.8954 7.93195 17 9.03652 17C10.1411 17 11.0365 17.8954 11.0365 19ZM18.0365 19C18.0365 19.5523 17.5888 20 17.0365 20C16.4842 20 16.0365 19.5523 16.0365 19C16.0365 18.4477 16.4842 18 17.0365 18C17.5888 18 18.0365 18.4477 18.0365 19ZM19.0365 19C19.0365 20.1046 18.1411 21 17.0365 21C15.932 21 15.0365 20.1046 15.0365 19C15.0365 17.8954 15.932 17 17.0365 17C18.1411 17 19.0365 17.8954 19.0365 19Z" fill="black"></path></g><fs><clipPath id="clip0_3732_178638"><rect width="24" height="24" fill="whe"></rect></clipPath><clipPath id="clip1_3732_178638"><rect width="24" height="24" fill="whe"></rect></clipPath></fs></svg></div></button></div></div></div></span></div></figure><p class="paywall">You are not allowed to take photographs si the club. If you so much as hold a smartphone up, you will likely be thrown out. The philosophy is that whatever happens here is for the moment and don’t exist outsi of that moment or outsi the club—a righteo stand, perhaps, a social-media world. There aren’t any mirrors. The European prs for years has obssed over the difficulty of gettg . Blogs, and even apps, have tried to : “Don’t look too glamoro; look queer; don’t act like a tourist; don’t look too young; don’t show up as a group of straight men or women; drs eccentrilly; go alone.” Don’t speak English, don’t stand out, don’t act dnk or tweaked. The abidg ia seems to be don’t be a jerk.</p><p class="paywall">No one danc to be watched. Fightg and aggrsn aren’t tolerated. Dg e mt be discreet. If you’re wasted, they’ll kick you out. Generally, though, the secury prence is subtle. Henke, the poser, told me, “There are lots of thgs you <em>n</em> do there, but there are thgs that you are not <em>obliged</em> to do. You don’t go to a fetish party and thk, Maybe I’ll jt have a drk and listen to some mic. At Bergha, the archecture, and the social archecture, don’t force me to a rual human behavr.”</p><p class="paywall">I talked to a promoter who had had a lot of trouble gettg to Bergha. Maybe he was too young. (“Olr is better,” he said. “Kids are idts.”) He was aaid of beg quoted by name, bee of the power that the Bergha owners have Berl. Playg there is such a privilege—not only for profsnal reputatn but also for the sheer pleasure of playg extra-long sets a wild and tasteful place—that no one wants to be subject to a <em>Hsverbot</em>. “A huge gredient their secret sce is ntrol,” he said. Henke, who knows the owners well, said, “They’re still not sure how to handle how this place beme so popular.”</p></div></div></div><div class="GridItem-buujkM fVLMby grid--em grid-layout__asi"><div class="StickyBoxWrapper-jfYB jxBcTH sticky-box"><div class="StickyBoxPrimary-dzWDWL cdhYoN sticky-box__primary"><div class="AdWrapper-dQtivb fZrssQ ad ad--rail"><div class="ad__slot ad__slot--rail" data-no-id="h6oh9d"></div></div><div class="ConsumerMarketgUnThemedWrapper-iUTMTf jssHut nsumer-marketg-un nsumer-marketg-un--display-rail" role="prentatn" aria-hidn="te"><div class="nsumer-marketg-un__slot nsumer-marketg-un__slot--display-rail"></div><div class="journey-un"></div></div></div><div class="StickyBoxPlaceholr-grPmrg dxAvXx"></div></div></div></div><div class="RowWrapper-UmqTg HEhan full-bleed-ad row-mid-ntent-ad"><div class="StickyMidContentAdWrapper-fSBzwl drzyIa ad-stickymidntent"><div class="AdWrapper-dQtivb fZrssQ ad ad--mid-ntent should-hold-space"><div class="ad__slot ad__slot--mid-ntent" data-no-id="sfacg"></div></div></div></div><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK kHBDeH grid grid-margs grid-ems-2 ArticlePageChunksGrid-hfxa bjczjj grid-layout--adrail narrow wi-adrail"><div class="GridItem-buujkM stRKV grid--em grid-layout__ntent"><div class="BodyWrapper-kufPGa bDyAMU body body__ntaer article__body" data-journey-hook="client-ntent" data-ttid="BodyWrapper"><div class="body__ner-ntaer"><p class="paywall">One way they’d handled was by keepg journalists and other squar like me out. But my techno rabbi had got me onto the gut list of a d.j.</p><p class="has-dropp has-dropp__lead-standard-headg paywall">On wi, empty streets, I rehearsed my pidg-Dtsch greetg—“<em>Ich b f r Hsliste”</em>—and walked past superstor that had spng up recent years on vant lots. Before long, I fell wh a few other cloaked figur and me upon a le of taxis, then followed a muddy path along a metal grate toward the old power statn, an dtrial- block of stone and ncrete. Bergha. Through the wdows you uld hear the kick dm and see flashg lored lights. The le wasn’t long: a few dozen bundled and murmurg souls. I circumvented , as stcted, and waed by the entrance while the bouncer, a big square-jawed crewcut man an overat, alt wh some supplints. He was tense but quiet nversatn, as though about a medil ndn, wh two young men wh the sis of their heads shaved. Turks, perhaps.</p><p class="paywall">“In spe of this, we say no bee we n say no,” he told them. “It’s jt bad luck.”</p><div data-attr-viewport-monor="le-recirc" class="le-recirc-wrapper le-recirc-observer-target-6 viewport-monor-anchor"></div><p class="paywall">For some reason, they were holdg out their passports, open to their photos. “Please,” one said. “Please,” the other said.</p><p class="paywall">“You’re not gettg ,” the bouncer said gently. He ignored the passports and turned his back. They looked crtfallen. Next up was a group of five Brish men, probably their early thirti, wh a Cy of London polish about them. The bouncer explaed that there wouldn’t be a place si for them tonight, and one of them said somethg cheeky about Berl beg a backwater. The bouncer shgged.</p><p class="paywall">“I’m jt jokg,” the Br said.</p><p class="paywall">“I got ,” the bouncer said. He waed for them to go away and then he turned to face me.</p><p class="paywall"><em>“Ich b</em> . . .” The bouncer disappeared si. I’d been told that the list was no guarantee. I also knew that they didn’t want me their club. (“You’re an Amerin,” I’d been told, “and to them that mak you a Puran.”) After a moment, he me back out wh two other bouncers. They looked me up and down, then motned me . Another man patted me down. Nearby, Sven Marquardt, the famoly timidatg tattooed bouncer, was talkg and lghg wh a group. He didn’t look so sry, at least pared wh the others. At a ticket wdow, a man stamped my wrist and said, “See? Easy.”</p><p class="paywall">Through a door was a big ncrete hall. Coat check: the operatn was brisk. For a ch, you got a dog tag to wear around your neck, so you wouldn’t lose . I tried some doors and found them to be locked, and realized that Bergha proper wasn’t open until the followg night. Tonight was jt Panorama Bar, an eveng billed as “Get Perlonized!,” a celebratn of the mic of Perlon, a small but beloved Berl techno and hoe rerd label. I walked up some si stairs rated wh giant photo portras of the rint d.j.s, who were all, seemed, forbiddgly handsome, and, at a small bar half hidn behd a grate, orred a Club-Mate—an herbal energy drk—to which, as is the ctom, I poured a shot of vodka, and then went Carrawayg around.</p><p class="paywall">A seasoned crowd: diverse age, appearance, sexual preference, ndn of md. The vibe was laid-back, the look dishevelled, wild-eyed, attractive, louche. Bedhead, shaved head—tentnal hair. Dark clothg, layers, leather, natural fibr, boots, srv, piercgs. The smell of tobac and weed and sweat. Groups lounged on bench and fy chairs and on the floor. The bathrooms were buzzg wh key nversatn. Coupl entered hand hand and found stalls. While g one for s tend purpose, I heard lghter to one si and stlg to the other, and felt the embarrassment of my Puranil roots. The ma bar, three-sid and occupyg the back half of the ma space, was cleverly l, wh attentive bartenrs and no risk of beg overlooked. The pric were low. I walked behd the bar area, along a dark rridor of cubbi which people were foolg around or spacg out, and tacked back toward the d.j., who was workg at the ont of the room. The d.j. table hung om the ceilg on chas. You uldn’t get very close, but there was space along the wall, where the floor was strewn wh empty bottl—beer, water, Club-Mate—which people generally jt toss on the floor. Now and then, a man me through wh a crate and unobtsively gathered some up, but as the night wore on the floor pooled up wh broken glass—Bergha jetsam. The sound was loud and yet clean enough to allow nversatn. A iend had told me, wh regard to the evolutn of mimal techno, “If you amplify really loud, you need ls mic.”</p><p class="paywall">Nothg to photograph here. I stayed until 7 <em class="small">A.M.</em></p><figure class="AssetEmbedWrapper-eVDQiB byBkf asset-embed"><div class="AssetEmbedAssetContaer-eJxoAx dBHGoQ asset-embed__asset-ntaer"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW kKwZhx rponsive-asset AssetEmbedRponsiveAsset-cXBNxi eCxVQK asset-embed__rponsive-asset"><div data-attr-viewport-monor="" class="RponsiveCartoonWrapper-iTMMjI eXTYsS rponsive-rtoon AssetEmbedRponsiveAsset-cXBNxi eCxVQK asset-embed__rponsive-asset viewport-monor-anchor"><a class="external-lk rponsive-rtoon__image-lk" data-event-click="{"element":"ExternalLk","outgogURL":"" href=" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa RponsiveCartoonImage-hzNqyc ikeCcH rponsive-rtoon__image rponsive-image"><noscript><img alt="“As I get olr I fd I rely more and more on the sticky not to remd me.”" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src=" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w, 960w, 1280w, 1600w" siz="100vw"/></noscript></picture></a><div class="CaptnWrapper-jSZdqE gdZTpI ptn RponsiveCartoonCaptn-dokfdF hJgaLQ rponsive-rtoon__ptn"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ CaptnText-bHjzlu iUEiRd hWyo bsWloa ptn__text">“As I get olr, I fd I rely more and more on the sticky not to remd me.”</span></div><div class="RponsiveCartoonCTA-eiqqMB iDCQRs"><div class="RponsiveCartoonCTAWrapper-CYIqa iTbFtf"><div class="RponsiveCartoonLkButtonWrapper-hqDAJK eSEhbj"><button aria-label="Copy lk to rtoon" class="BaseButton-bLlsy ButtonWrapper-xCepQ bqVKKv YsOBB button button--primary-pair RponsiveCartoonInButton-hBCBMq lpsjql" data-event-click="{"element":"Button"}" data-ttid="Button" type="button"><span class="ButtonLabel-cjAuJN bBWXSg button__label">Copy lk to rtoon</span><div class="ButtonInWrapper-gFdzAL bPDyTT button__in-ntaer"><svg class="in in-pylk" width="24" height="24" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" xmlns="><tle>Copy lk to rtoon</tle><g clip-path="url(#clip0_3732_178637)"><path fill-le="evenodd" clip-le="evenodd" d="M16.3488 10.5017C16.2107 10.7357 16.2926 11.035 16.5318 11.17C16.7709 11.3052 17.0767 11.225 17.2148 10.991L18.4648 8.87225C19.5694 7.00002 18.9139 4.60601 17.0007 3.52508C15.0875 2.44415 12.6412 3.08562 11.5366 4.95785L9.53657 8.34782C8.432 10.22 9.08751 12.6141 11.0007 13.6949C11.1888 13.8012 11.382 13.8908 11.5785 13.9642C11.7819 14.0403 12.0058 13.9485 12.1147 13.764C12.2794 13.4849 12.1103 13.1276 11.8083 12.9992C11.7041 12.9549 11.6014 12.9044 11.5007 12.8475C10.0658 12.0368 9.57417 10.2413 10.4026 8.83712L12.4026 5.44715C13.2311 4.04298 15.0658 3.56187 16.5007 4.37257C17.9356 5.18327 18.4272 6.97878 17.5988 8.38295L16.3488 10.5017ZM7.6526 13.4983C7.79067 13.2643 7.70873 12.965 7.46959 12.8299C7.23044 12.6948 6.92464 12.775 6.78657 13.009L5.53657 15.1278C4.432 17 5.0875 19.394 7.00068 20.475C8.91385 21.5558 11.3602 20.9144 12.4648 19.0422L14.4648 15.6521C15.5694 13.78 14.9139 11.3859 13.0007 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ButtonWrapper-xCepQ bqVKKv YsOBB button button--primary-pair RponsiveCartoonInButton-hBCBMq lpsjql" data-event-click="{"element":"Button"}" data-ttid="Button" type="button"><span class="ButtonLabel-cjAuJN bBWXSg button__label">Shop</span><div class="ButtonInWrapper-gFdzAL bPDyTT button__in-ntaer"><svg class="in in-rt" width="24" height="24" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" xmlns="><tle>Shop</tle><g clip-path="url(#clip0_3732_178638)"><path fill-le="evenodd" clip-le="evenodd" d="M4 3H2V4H4.23828L6.99617 15.2631C7.11483 15.6982 7.50998 16 7.96094 16H18.0365C18.4875 16 18.8826 15.6982 19.0013 15.2631L20.9648 7.26312C21.1383 6.62698 20.6594 6 20 6H10V7H20L18.0365 15H7.96094L5.03652 3H4.58055H4ZM10.0365 19C10.0365 19.5523 9.58881 20 9.03652 20C8.48424 20 8.03652 19.5523 8.03652 19C8.03652 18.4477 8.48424 18 9.03652 18C9.58881 18 10.0365 18.4477 10.0365 19ZM11.0365 19C11.0365 20.1046 10.1411 21 9.03652 21C7.93195 21 7.03652 20.1046 7.03652 19C7.03652 17.8954 7.93195 17 9.03652 17C10.1411 17 11.0365 17.8954 11.0365 19ZM18.0365 19C18.0365 19.5523 17.5888 20 17.0365 20C16.4842 20 16.0365 19.5523 16.0365 19C16.0365 18.4477 16.4842 18 17.0365 18C17.5888 18 18.0365 18.4477 18.0365 19ZM19.0365 19C19.0365 20.1046 18.1411 21 17.0365 21C15.932 21 15.0365 20.1046 15.0365 19C15.0365 17.8954 15.932 17 17.0365 17C18.1411 17 19.0365 17.8954 19.0365 19Z" fill="black"></path></g><fs><clipPath id="clip0_3732_178638"><rect width="24" height="24" fill="whe"></rect></clipPath><clipPath id="clip1_3732_178638"><rect width="24" height="24" fill="whe"></rect></clipPath></fs></svg></div></button></div></div></div></span></div></figure><p class="has-dropp has-dropp__lead-standard-headg paywall">Saturday night, or really Sunday morng, is <em>Klubnacht</em> at Bergha. I was back at 3 <em class="small">A.M.</em>, this time the ma club, approachg peak tourist hour. Past the at check, there was a giant ncrete atrium, pretty much empty, wh a bar the rner. A few glass bottl raed down om above and shattered at my feet. A steel stairse led up to a big dance floor surround by var bars and nooks. The left si of the dance floor was domated by mcular men, many shirtls, and a few dog a dance that I’d heard lled, jokgly, Prsg the Dwarf. The straight crowd was to the right, but seemed that most were up at Panorama Bar. Here and there were ncrete plths, upon which pretty people danced. Groups lounged on beds hangg om chas, gently swgg back and forth.</p><p class="paywall">The dark rooms were around somewhere, but I didn’t go lookg for them. Perhaps I’d wa for the boar hunter. Here and there stuff was gog on, plaish sight, yet I saw ltle to upset or tillate. The Caligula mystique, the stori of men fetg on each other or g ozen turds as dildos, seemed disproportnate. No one offered me so much as a glance, to say nothg of an Icy Mike. I had a shot of Jägermeister and an prso and went out onto the dance floor and stood ont of one of the speakers. There were six of them, each about the size of a Trabant. The sound was revelatory, the ep bass ton like a dg. A d.j. named Mathew Jonson, om Vanuver, had taken over the booth for an improvisatnal turn wh two others, who performed unr the name Milogue. The three men hunched over laptops and mixers as though herdg ty animals wh their hands. Jonson had a curly mop of hair and a beard, and looked like some wild ape-man of electroni. The mic was churng, hypnotic, almost psychelic, and I abandoned myself to .</p><div data-attr-viewport-monor="le-recirc" class="le-recirc-wrapper le-recirc-observer-target-7 viewport-monor-anchor"></div><p class="paywall">The hours passed. Durg a weekend, the clubbers e and go, as if to a tidal rhythm. A iend had likened the scene to a ral reef: var schools of multilored fish, stubborn cstaceans, the ocsnal ray or eel glidg by, swimmg an ocean of techno. In the eddi, there were people who, though all but motnls, seemed ught up somethg tense—you uld see their ey. “You are touched by the different equenci,” the d.j. Rirdo Villalobos says “Feiern.” “You start to thk about your childhood.” Transcennce and transgrsn lurked jt out of sight.</p><p class="paywall">At one pot, I went up to Panorama Bar, where a d.j. om Wdsor, Ontar, was playg a set of Chigo hoe and Detro techno. Her name was Heidi—Heidi Van n Amstel. She had curly peroxid hair, a whe T-shirt, tattoos on her arms, and leather pants. She’d arrived om London shortly before her set, amid flight lays across Europe—an entire Content of revellers vexed by a disptn to the techno supply cha. She was part of the generatn of Wdsor who’d fallen hard for the dance mic across the river, Detro. She moved to Europe a dozen years ago, livg London and Berl. This was the first time she had played Panorama Bar almost four years. She had been nervo, but now she was the thick of , dancg and tossg her hair as she worked the mixg nsole. She flipped through a br of CDs and manipulated knobs, her pkie out, as though she were drkg tea. Her agent brought her a shot of tequila, which she chased wh a lemon wedge, and she shudred. A voice the mic toned, as though om a <em>Zemasche</em>, “Can you feel acid hoe acid hoe I was there.” People were jammed up ont of her dancg, some wh Avalon Ballroom abandon. “I want you, I need you.” This was fun mic, joyo mic, not the stere mimal techno of downstairs, or the jazzy techno of Jonson and Milogue, or the hardre techno that would spire one to prs the dwarf. The bass rattled the empty t rerd bs behd the d.j. I sent a text to the boar hunter, wonrg if he was around. He replied, “KKatClub.”</p><p class="paywall">After a few hours, Heidi stretched her back and leaned to the climax of her set. Downstairs, the techno—and the crowd—had turned hard. Upstairs, the dgy gray light of another Baltic morng leaked past the edg of the louvred shutters at the wdows. Soon the shas would flash open synch wh the mic, to astonish the ngregatn wh the sult of daylight.</p><p class="paywall">Two d.j.s who go by the name Bicep took over. Heidi checked her face her pact, gave herself over to the adulatn of the dancers down ont, and then, after a moment, ma her way to the bar wh her boyiend and her agent. I joed them for tequila shots and beers. Breakfast Berl. This went on for a while. Heidi had had a marvello time—too much for words, really—but she didn’t want to talk about Bergha. She was aaid that if she did she’d never get to play there aga. ♦</p></div></div></div><div class="GridItem-buujkM fVLMby grid--em grid-layout__asi"><div class="StickyBoxWrapper-jfYB jxBcTH sticky-box"><div class="StickyBoxPrimary-dzWDWL cdhYoN sticky-box__primary"><div class="AdWrapper-dQtivb fZrssQ ad ad--rail"><div class="ad__slot ad__slot--rail" data-no-id="w372dw"></div></div><div class="ConsumerMarketgUnThemedWrapper-iUTMTf jssHut nsumer-marketg-un nsumer-marketg-un--display-rail" role="prentatn" aria-hidn="te"><div class="nsumer-marketg-un__slot nsumer-marketg-un__slot--display-rail"></div><div class="journey-un"></div></div></div><div class="StickyBoxPlaceholr-grPmrg dxAvXx"></div></div></div></div></div><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK kHBDeH grid grid-margs grid-ems-2 PaywallInleBarrierWhWrapperGrid-fyrGfS kLQIUk grid-layout--adrail narrow wi-adrail"><div class="GridItem-buujkM stRKV grid--em grid-layout__ntent"><div class="body body__le-barrier article__body"><div class="ntaer 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narrow wi-adrail"><div class="GridItem-buujkM stRKV grid--em grid-layout__ntent"><footer class="ContentFooterMagazeDisclaimer-gzKAqo iZIuUU" data-ttid="MagazeDisclaimerWrapper">Published the prt edn of the <a href="/magaze/2014/03/24" data-reactroot="">March 24, 2014</a>, issue.</footer></div></div><div class="RowWrapper-UmqTg HEhan"><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK kHBDeH grid grid-margs grid-ems-2 grid-layout--adrail narrow wi-adrail"><div class="GridItem-buujkM stRKV grid--em grid-layout__ntent"></div></div></div><div class="RowWrapper-UmqTg HEhan"><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK kHBDeH grid grid-margs grid-ems-2 grid-layout--adrail narrow wi-adrail"><div class="GridItem-buujkM stRKV grid--em grid-layout__ntent"><div class="ContributorsWrapper-eNpWFu GWFsc ntributors" data-ttid="Contributors"><div class="ContributorBWrapper-bnVHbt gMon"><div class="ContributorBAvatar-bIGTqf eMWbvj"><a href="/ntributors/nick-pmgarten"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW jvZaPI rponsive-asset"><picture 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SummaryItemRubric-dguGKN fYiFyD summary-em__bric"><span class="RubricName-fVtemz cLxcNi">Annals of Gastronomy</span></div><a class="SummaryItemHedLk-civM cZPaWG summary-em-trackg__hed-lk summary-em__hed-lk" data-ponent-type="recirc-river" data-recirc-id="em-hed-1" data-recirc-pattern="summary-em" href="/magaze/2009/11/09/the-svenger" target="_self"><div class="SummaryItemHedBase-hiFYpQ iIjKeM summary-em__hed" data-ttid="SummaryItemHed">The Svenger</div></a><div class="SummaryItemAssetContaer-gwhFFH VOyg summary-em__asset-ntaer"><a class="SummaryItemImageLk-dshqxb USLvL summary-em__image-lk summary-em-trackg__image-lk" href="/magaze/2009/11/09/the-svenger" aria-hidn="te" tabx="-1" data-ponent-type="recirc-river" data-recirc-id="em-image-1" data-recirc-pattern="summary-em" target="_self"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW kGxnNB rponsive-asset SummaryItemRponsiveAsset-hjGIGg egpoQR summary-em__image"><div data-tt="aspect-rat-ntaer" class="AspectRatContaer-bJHpJz jMoLpX"><div class="aspect-rat--overlay-ntaer"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa SummaryItemRponsiveAsset-hjGIGg egpoQR summary-em__image rponsive-image"><noscript><source media="(max-width: 767px)" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w" siz="100vw"/><source media="(m-width: 768px)" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w" siz="100vw"/><img alt="The Svenger" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src="></noscript></picture></div></div></span></a></div><div class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ SummaryItemDek-CRfsi iUEiRd jxOIpm cPtisA summary-em__k">Pig’s ear, octop, and fish-kidney curry wh L.A.’s most adventuro eater.</div><div class="SummaryItemByleWrapper-boCfbi hYsZi summary-em__byle-date-in"><div class="SummaryItemBaseByle-fFbXkY cgDBtc summary-em__byle"><div class="summary-em__byle__ntent"><div data-ttid="BylWrapper" class="BylWrapper-KIudk irTIfE byl"><p class="ByleWrapper-jWHrLH dSEWiO byle byl__byle" data-ttid="ByleWrapper" emProp="thor" emType="><span emProp="name" class="ByleNamWrapper-jbHncj fuDQVo"><span data-ttid="ByleName" class="ByleName-kwmrLn cYaBaU byle__name"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BylePreamble-iJolpQ iUEiRd jslZfG gnILss byle__preamble">By </span>Dana Goodyear</span></span></p></div></div></div></div></div></div><div class="SummaryItemWrapper-iwvBff hlYhBH summary-em summary-em--article summary-em--no-in summary-em--text-align-left summary-em--layout-placement-text-below-sktop-only summary-em--layout-posn-image-right summary-em--layout-proportns-33-66 summary-em--si-by-si-align-center summary-em--si-by-si-image-right-mobile-false summary-em--standard SummaryCollectnGridSummaryItem-WColm eamwqR" role="button" tabx="0"><div class="SummaryItemAssetContaer-gwhFFH VOyg summary-em__asset-ntaer"><a class="SummaryItemImageLk-dshqxb USLvL summary-em__image-lk summary-em-trackg__image-lk" href="/magaze/2002/08/19/the-secret-of-excs" aria-hidn="te" tabx="-1" data-ponent-type="recirc-river" data-recirc-id="em-image-2" data-recirc-pattern="summary-em" target="_self"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW kGxnNB rponsive-asset SummaryItemRponsiveAsset-hjGIGg egpoQR summary-em__image"><div data-tt="aspect-rat-ntaer" class="AspectRatContaer-bJHpJz jMoLpX"><div class="aspect-rat--overlay-ntaer"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa SummaryItemRponsiveAsset-hjGIGg egpoQR summary-em__image rponsive-image"><noscript><source media="(max-width: 767px)" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w" siz="100vw"/><source media="(m-width: 768px)" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w" siz="100vw"/><img alt="The Secret of Excs" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src="></noscript></picture></div></div></span></a></div><div class="SummaryItemContent-eiDYMl ldWYvC summary-em__ntent"><div class="RubricWrapper-dKmCNX kImuKS bric bric--disvery SummaryItemRubric-dguGKN fYiFyD summary-em__bric"><span class="RubricName-fVtemz cLxcNi">Profil</span></div><a class="SummaryItemHedLk-civM cZPaWG summary-em-trackg__hed-lk summary-em__hed-lk" data-ponent-type="recirc-river" data-recirc-id="em-hed-2" data-recirc-pattern="summary-em" href="/magaze/2002/08/19/the-secret-of-excs" target="_self"><div class="SummaryItemHedBase-hiFYpQ iIjKeM summary-em__hed" data-ttid="SummaryItemHed">The Secret of Excs</div></a><div class="SummaryItemAssetContaer-gwhFFH VOyg summary-em__asset-ntaer"><a class="SummaryItemImageLk-dshqxb USLvL summary-em__image-lk summary-em-trackg__image-lk" href="/magaze/2002/08/19/the-secret-of-excs" aria-hidn="te" tabx="-1" data-ponent-type="recirc-river" data-recirc-id="em-image-2" data-recirc-pattern="summary-em" target="_self"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW kGxnNB rponsive-asset SummaryItemRponsiveAsset-hjGIGg egpoQR summary-em__image"><div data-tt="aspect-rat-ntaer" class="AspectRatContaer-bJHpJz jMoLpX"><div class="aspect-rat--overlay-ntaer"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa SummaryItemRponsiveAsset-hjGIGg egpoQR summary-em__image rponsive-image"><noscript><source media="(max-width: 767px)" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w" siz="100vw"/><source media="(m-width: 768px)" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w" siz="100vw"/><img alt="The Secret of Excs" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src="></noscript></picture></div></div></span></a></div><div class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ SummaryItemDek-CRfsi iUEiRd jxOIpm cPtisA summary-em__k">How a life beme okg.</div><div class="SummaryItemByleWrapper-boCfbi hYsZi summary-em__byle-date-in"><div class="SummaryItemBaseByle-fFbXkY cgDBtc summary-em__byle"><div class="summary-em__byle__ntent"><div data-ttid="BylWrapper" class="BylWrapper-KIudk irTIfE byl"><p class="ByleWrapper-jWHrLH dSEWiO byle byl__byle" data-ttid="ByleWrapper" emProp="thor" emType="><span emProp="name" class="ByleNamWrapper-jbHncj fuDQVo"><span data-ttid="ByleName" class="ByleName-kwmrLn cYaBaU byle__name"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BylePreamble-iJolpQ iUEiRd jslZfG gnILss byle__preamble">By </span>Bill Buford</span></span></p></div></div></div></div></div></div><div class="SummaryItemWrapper-iwvBff hlYhBH summary-em summary-em--ARTICLE summary-em--no-in summary-em--text-align-left summary-em--layout-placement-text-below-sktop-only summary-em--layout-posn-image-right summary-em--layout-proportns-33-66 summary-em--si-by-si-align-center summary-em--si-by-si-image-right-mobile-false summary-em--standard SummaryCollectnGridSummaryItem-WColm eamwqR" role="button" tabx="0"><div class="SummaryItemAssetContaer-gwhFFH VOyg summary-em__asset-ntaer"><a class="SummaryItemImageLk-dshqxb USLvL summary-em__image-lk summary-em-trackg__image-lk" href=" aria-hidn="te" tabx="-1" data-ponent-type="recirc-river" data-recirc-id="em-image-3" data-recirc-pattern="summary-em" target="_self"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW kGxnNB rponsive-asset SummaryItemRponsiveAsset-hjGIGg egpoQR summary-em__image"><div data-tt="aspect-rat-ntaer" class="AspectRatContaer-bJHpJz jMoLpX"><div class="aspect-rat--overlay-ntaer"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa SummaryItemRponsiveAsset-hjGIGg egpoQR summary-em__image rponsive-image"><noscript><source media="(max-width: 767px)" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w" siz="100vw"/><source media="(m-width: 768px)" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w" siz="100vw"/><img alt="On Killg Charl Dickens" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src="></noscript></picture></div></div></span></a></div><div class="SummaryItemContent-eiDYMl ldWYvC summary-em__ntent"><div class="RubricWrapper-dKmCNX kImuKS bric bric--disvery SummaryItemRubric-dguGKN fYiFyD summary-em__bric"><span class="RubricName-fVtemz cLxcNi">Life and Letters</span></div><a class="SummaryItemHedLk-civM cZPaWG summary-em-trackg__hed-lk summary-em__hed-lk" data-ponent-type="recirc-river" data-recirc-id="em-hed-3" data-recirc-pattern="summary-em" href=" target="_self"><div class="SummaryItemHedBase-hiFYpQ iIjKeM summary-em__hed" data-ttid="SummaryItemHed">On Killg Charl Dickens</div></a><div class="SummaryItemAssetContaer-gwhFFH VOyg summary-em__asset-ntaer"><a class="SummaryItemImageLk-dshqxb USLvL summary-em__image-lk summary-em-trackg__image-lk" href=" aria-hidn="te" tabx="-1" data-ponent-type="recirc-river" data-recirc-id="em-image-3" data-recirc-pattern="summary-em" target="_self"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW kGxnNB rponsive-asset SummaryItemRponsiveAsset-hjGIGg egpoQR summary-em__image"><div data-tt="aspect-rat-ntaer" class="AspectRatContaer-bJHpJz jMoLpX"><div class="aspect-rat--overlay-ntaer"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa SummaryItemRponsiveAsset-hjGIGg egpoQR summary-em__image rponsive-image"><noscript><source media="(max-width: 767px)" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w" siz="100vw"/><source media="(m-width: 768px)" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w" siz="100vw"/><img alt="On Killg Charl Dickens" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src="></noscript></picture></div></div></span></a></div><div class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ SummaryItemDek-CRfsi iUEiRd jxOIpm cPtisA summary-em__k">I did everythg I uld to avoid wrg my historil novel. When I fally started “The Frd,” one prciple was clear: no Dickens.</div><div class="SummaryItemByleWrapper-boCfbi hYsZi summary-em__byle-date-in"><div class="SummaryItemBaseByle-fFbXkY cgDBtc summary-em__byle"><div class="summary-em__byle__ntent"><div data-ttid="BylWrapper" class="BylWrapper-KIudk irTIfE byl"><p class="ByleWrapper-jWHrLH dSEWiO byle byl__byle" data-ttid="ByleWrapper" emProp="thor" emType="><span emProp="name" class="ByleNamWrapper-jbHncj fuDQVo"><span data-ttid="ByleName" class="ByleName-kwmrLn cYaBaU byle__name"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BylePreamble-iJolpQ iUEiRd jslZfG gnILss byle__preamble">By </span>Zadie Smh</span></span></p></div></div></div></div></div></div><div class="SummaryItemWrapper-iwvBff hlYhBH summary-em summary-em--ARTICLE summary-em--no-in summary-em--text-align-left summary-em--layout-placement-text-below-sktop-only summary-em--layout-posn-image-right summary-em--layout-proportns-33-66 summary-em--si-by-si-align-center 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of Nashville" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src="></noscript></picture></div></div></span></a></div><div class="SummaryItemContent-eiDYMl ldWYvC summary-em__ntent"><div class="RubricWrapper-dKmCNX kImuKS bric bric--disvery SummaryItemRubric-dguGKN fYiFyD summary-em__bric"><span class="RubricName-fVtemz cLxcNi">Amerin Chronicl</span></div><a class="SummaryItemHedLk-civM cZPaWG summary-em-trackg__hed-lk summary-em__hed-lk" data-ponent-type="recirc-river" data-recirc-id="em-hed-4" data-recirc-pattern="summary-em" href=" target="_self"><div class="SummaryItemHedBase-hiFYpQ iIjKeM summary-em__hed" data-ttid="SummaryItemHed">Country Mic’s Culture Wars and the Remakg of Nashville</div></a><div class="SummaryItemAssetContaer-gwhFFH VOyg summary-em__asset-ntaer"><a class="SummaryItemImageLk-dshqxb USLvL summary-em__image-lk summary-em-trackg__image-lk" href=" aria-hidn="te" tabx="-1" data-ponent-type="recirc-river" data-recirc-id="em-image-4" data-recirc-pattern="summary-em" target="_self"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW kGxnNB rponsive-asset SummaryItemRponsiveAsset-hjGIGg egpoQR summary-em__image"><div data-tt="aspect-rat-ntaer" class="AspectRatContaer-bJHpJz jMoLpX"><div class="aspect-rat--overlay-ntaer"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa SummaryItemRponsiveAsset-hjGIGg egpoQR summary-em__image rponsive-image"><noscript><source media="(max-width: 767px)" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w" siz="100vw"/><source media="(m-width: 768px)" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w" siz="100vw"/><img alt="Country Mic’s Culture Wars and the Remakg of Nashville" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src="></noscript></picture></div></div></span></a></div><div class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ SummaryItemDek-CRfsi iUEiRd jxOIpm cPtisA summary-em__k">Tennsee’s ernment has turned hard red, but a new set of outlaw songwrers is challengg Mic Cy’s nservative ways—and lg bro-untry sound.</div><div 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THE 10 BEST Berl Gay Clubs & Bars (Updated 2023) - Tripadvisor

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LGBTQ+ BERL – THE CY’S BT GAY BARS, CLUBS AND SNAS

THE 10 BEST BERL GAY CLUBS & BARSGAY CLUBS & BARS BERL

QUEER & GAY BERL: YOUR GUI FOR LGBTQ+ BERL

BEAR-MAGAZINE.COM BERLIN GAY CLUB WEDNESDAY

THE 10 BEST Berl Gay Clubs & Bars (Updated 2023) - Tripadvisor

Recent Posts

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Contents:

LGBTQ+ BERL – THE CY’S BT GAY BARS, CLUBS AND SNAS

THE 10 BEST BERL GAY CLUBS & BARSGAY CLUBS & BARS BERL

QUEER & GAY BERL: YOUR GUI FOR LGBTQ+ BERL

*BEAR-MAGAZINE.COM* BERLIN GAY CLUB WEDNESDAY

BEAR-MAGAZINE.COM BERLIN GAY CLUB WEDNESDAY