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ontend-pencraft-Text-module__weight-normal--s54Wf ontend-pencraft-Text-module__font-text--QmNJR ontend-pencraft-Text-module__lor-sendary--WRADg ontend-pencraft-Text-module__ret--dW0zZ ontend-pencraft-Text-module__body4--Pl3xY">Other</div></button></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div class="post-hear"><h1 class="post-tle unpublished">Ameri, Your Food Is So Gay: The Annotated Versn</h1><h3 class="subtle">My queer food classic om 2013, wh not and rrectns. </h3><div class="pencraft ontend-pencraft-Box-module__ret--VfQY8 ontend-pencraft-Box-module__display-flex--ZqeZt ontend-pencraft-Box-module__flex-directn-lumn--Rq7pk ontend-pencraft-Box-module__paddg-bottom-16--KVxKv"><div class="pencraft ontend-pencraft-Box-module__ret--VfQY8 ontend-pencraft-Box-module__display-flex--ZqeZt ontend-pencraft-Box-module__flex-directn-lumn--Rq7pk ontend-pencraft-Box-module__paddg-y-16--ohCEm"><div class="pencraft ontend-pencraft-Box-module__ret--VfQY8 ontend-pencraft-Box-module__display-flex--ZqeZt ontend-pencraft-Box-module__flex-jtify-start--_8fEd ontend-pencraft-Box-module__flex-align-center--rSd6h ontend-pencraft-Box-module__flex-gap-12--rODKq"><div class="pencraft ontend-pencraft-Box-module__ret--VfQY8 ontend-pencraft-Box-module__display-flex--ZqeZt"><div class="pencraft ontend-pencraft-Box-module__flexGrow--mx4xz ontend-pencraft-Box-module__ret--VfQY8 ontend-pencraft-Box-module__display-flex--ZqeZt ontend-pencraft-Box-module__flex-align-center--rSd6h ontend-pencraft-Box-module__flex-gap-8--HFpIK facepile"><div class="pencraft ontend-pencraft-Box-module__ret--VfQY8 ontend-pencraft-Box-module__display-flex--ZqeZt ontend-pencraft-Box-module__flex-align-center--rSd6h"><div class="pencraft ontend-pencraft-Box-module__ret--VfQY8 ontend-pencraft-Box-module__display-flex--ZqeZt ontend-pencraft-Box-module__flex-align-center--rSd6h ontend-ponents-Facepile-module__fac--FVkdk ontend-ponents-Facepile-module__size-40--pH6IT"><div class="profile-hover-rd-target ontend-rear2-ProfileAndPublitnHoverCard-module__profileHoverCardTarget--Od_YL"><a href=" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="pencraft ontend-pencraft-Box-module__flexAuto--CnX9I ontend-pencraft-Box-module__ret--VfQY8 ontend-pencraft-Box-module__display-flex--ZqeZt"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset=" /><img src=" siz="100vw" alt style="z-x: 1;" width="80" class="ontend-ponents-rponsive_img-module__img--Pgjj2 facepile-face ontend-ponents-Facepile-module__face--uAQkp ontend-ponents-Facepile-module__size-40--pH6IT ontend-ponents-Facepile-module__first--TZamh ontend-ponents-Facepile-module__last--DT3p3" /></picture></a></div></div></div></div></div><div class="pencraft ontend-pencraft-Box-module__ret--VfQY8 ontend-pencraft-Box-module__display-flex--ZqeZt ontend-pencraft-Box-module__flex-directn-lumn--Rq7pk"><div class="pencraft ontend-pencraft-Box-module__ret--VfQY8 ontend-pencraft-Text-module__size-11--k1e8b ontend-pencraft-Text-module__le-height-20--p0dP8 ontend-pencraft-Text-module__weight-medium--x7khA ontend-pencraft-Text-module__font-meta--U_nxy ontend-pencraft-Text-module__lor-pub-primary-text--RzL7j ontend-pencraft-Text-module__transform-upperse--IDkUL ontend-pencraft-Text-module__ret--dW0zZ ontend-pencraft-Text-module__meta--jzHdd"><div class="profile-hover-rd-target ontend-rear2-ProfileAndPublitnHoverCard-module__profileHoverCardTarget--Od_YL"><a href=" class="pencraft ontend-pencraft-Box-module__ret--VfQY8 ontend-pencraft-Text-module__ratn-hover-unrle--BEYAn ontend-pencraft-Text-module__ret--dW0zZ">John Birdsall</a></div></div><div class="pencraft ontend-pencraft-Box-module__ret--VfQY8 ontend-pencraft-Box-module__display-flex--ZqeZt ontend-pencraft-Box-module__flex-gap-4--zeW5_"><div class="pencraft ontend-pencraft-Box-module__ret--VfQY8 ontend-pencraft-Text-module__size-11--k1e8b ontend-pencraft-Text-module__le-height-20--p0dP8 ontend-pencraft-Text-module__weight-medium--x7khA ontend-pencraft-Text-module__font-meta--U_nxy ontend-pencraft-Text-module__lor-pub-sendary-text--OzRTa ontend-pencraft-Text-module__transform-upperse--IDkUL ontend-pencraft-Text-module__ret--dW0zZ ontend-pencraft-Text-module__meta--jzHdd">Jun 7, 2023</div></div></div></div></div><div class="pencraft ontend-pencraft-Box-module__flexGrow--mx4xz ontend-pencraft-Box-module__ret--VfQY8 ontend-pencraft-Box-module__display-flex--ZqeZt ontend-pencraft-Box-module__flex-jtify-space-between--NvIcg ontend-pencraft-Box-module__flex-align-center--rSd6h ontend-pencraft-Box-module__flex-gap-16--TpblU ontend-pencraft-Box-module__paddg-y-16--ohCEm ontend-pencraft-Box-module__borr-top-tail-themed--e17yZ ontend-pencraft-Box-module__borr-bottom-tail-themed--eVwFY post-ufi"><div class="pencraft ontend-pencraft-Box-module__ret--VfQY8 ontend-pencraft-Box-module__display-flex--ZqeZt ontend-pencraft-Box-module__flex-gap-8--HFpIK"><div class="like-button-ntaer post-ufi-button style-button"><a role="button" class="post-ufi-button style-button has-label wh-borr"><svg role="img" style="height: 20px; width: 20px;" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="#000000" stroke-width="2" stroke="#000" xmlns=" class="in"><g><tle></tle><svg xmlns=" width="24" height="24" viewBox="0 0 24 24" stroke-width="2" stroke-lep="round" stroke-lejo="round" class="luci luci-heart"><path d="M19 14c1.49-1.46 3-3.21 3-5.5A5.5 5.5 0 0 0 16.5 3c-1.76 0-3 .5-4.5 2-1.5-1.5-2.74-2-4.5-2A5.5 5.5 0 0 0 2 8.5c0 2.3 1.5 4.05 3 5.5l7 7Z"></path></svg></g></svg><div class="label">15</div></a><div role="dialog" class="modal typography out gone share-dialog popup"><div class="modal-table"><div class="modal-row"><div class="modal-cell modal-ntent no-fullscreen"><div class="ntaer"><button tabInx="0" type="button" data-ttid="close-modal" class="pencraft modal-btn modal-ex-btn no-marg ontend-pencraft-Button-module__inButton--xpBoH ontend-pencraft-Button-module__buttonBase--T0hXz ontend-pencraft-Button-module__size_40--RASvV 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ontend-pencraft-Box-module__borr-radi-12--AmQy9 social-preview-box post"><div class="social-image-box"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset=" /><img src=" siz="100vw" alt loadg="lazy" width="120" class="ontend-ponents-rponsive_img-module__img--Pgjj2 social-image" /></picture></div><div class="pencraft ontend-pencraft-Box-module__ret--VfQY8 ontend-pencraft-Box-module__display-flex--ZqeZt ontend-pencraft-Box-module__flex-directn-lumn--Rq7pk ontend-pencraft-Box-module__paddg-y-8--exiCC ontend-pencraft-Box-module__paddg-left-12--eE6bp"><h4 class="pencraft ontend-pencraft-Box-module__ret--VfQY8 ontend-pencraft-Text-module__size-16--fFowu ontend-pencraft-Text-module__le-height-20--p0dP8 ontend-pencraft-Text-module__weight-bold--Ps9DB ontend-pencraft-Text-module__font-text--QmNJR ontend-pencraft-Text-module__lor-primary--ud4Z0 ontend-pencraft-Text-module__ret--dW0zZ ontend-pencraft-Text-module__hear4--hH3cg">Ameri, Your Food Is So Gay: The Annotated Versn</h4><div class="pencraft 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class><div class="available-ntent"><div dir="to" class="body markup"><p></p><div data-ponent-name="SubscribeWidget" class="subscribe-widget"><div class="pencraft ontend-pencraft-Box-module__ret--VfQY8 ontend-pencraft-Box-module__display-flex--ZqeZt ontend-pencraft-Box-module__flex-jtify-center--SQPji"><div class="ontend-ponents-ee_email_form-module__ntaer--OfBh4"><form actn="/api/v1/ee?nojs=te" method="post" noValidate class="form ontend-ponents-ee_email_form-module__form--LDIzl"><put type="hidn" name="first_url" /><put type="hidn" name="first_referrer" /><put type="hidn" name="current_url" /><put type="hidn" name="current_referrer" /><put type="hidn" name="referral_" /><put type="hidn" name="source" value="subscribe-widget" /><put type="hidn" name="referrg_pub_id" /><put type="hidn" name="addnal_referrg_pub_ids" /><div class="ontend-ponents-ee_email_form-module__siBySiWrap--yhsgv"><put type="email" name="email" placeholr="Type your email..." class="pencraft ontend-ponents-ee_email_form-module__emailInput--BLQGf" /><button tabInx="0" type="subm" class="button rightButton primary subscribe-btn ontend-ponents-ee_email_form-module__button--WcLG9"><span class="button-text ">Subscribe</span></button></div><div id="error-ntaer"></div><div class="subtle-help-text below-put ontend-ponents-ee_email_form-module__lks--G_QlQ"></div></form><div class="ontend-log-typo_handler-EmailTypoHandler-module__animatnWrapper--UT0du"></div></div></div></div><p><em><span>I wrote this say 2013, after edor Chris Yg said y to my hasty, half-ass pch for Lucky Peach magaze’s </span><a href=" rel>Genr issue</a><span>: an say on the fluence of gay food wrers the U.S. My piece, “Ameri, Your Food Is So Gay,” was momento on a uple of levels, personal and cultural. First, I filed a panicked sh to make a adle—no time to do weeks of rearch, or to revise and re-revise and re-re-revise, which had been my self-sabotagg method as a chef-turned-wrer, guilty even to thk I served a voice (imposter syndrome is a jealo bch of a boyiend). And send, I had no ia how much old plaster I’d break through wh this say. In a food-media box packed wh chef bros and kchen bad boys, the very ia of queer food was ludicro. Like, are-you-fuckg-kiddg-me ridiculo. This will be shockg to you queer kids out there, I know, but as recently as 10 years ago IT WAS UNTHINKABLE to claim queer cred for rtrant food the U.S.; for queerg food culture, or mandg a queer prence the visible culture of Amerin rtrant food. (Which also, so-lled prtige media of a ago, was almost 100 percent whe and Euro-rived; a new generatn of QPOC wrers, smarter and fiercer than I am—</span><a href=" rel>Jaya Saxena</a><span>, </span><a href=" rel>Bryan Washgton</a><span>, others—is explorg queer food wh astonishg grace and energy.) Celebratg Pri at Beard Hoe? Nuh-uh, queen. In 2013 you were lud to thk was even possible. LGBTQ+ issu food were the niche-it of niche topics—edors wanted stori about hot straight butchers, or about whe guys okg “real” Thai food. But thanks part to this say (and to the fluence and reputatn of Lucky Peach, for which I thank Yg, Rachel Khong, Peter Meehan, and David Chang), queer food ronated wh rtrant oks, wh edors, and most important, wh rears. So here is, annotated to rrect errors and slopps (all me), and, 10 years on, to stand as a kd of wns—a small plea to all you queer kids food to keep kickg at the walls that I tried, wh this say, to pry a small chunk om.</span></em></p><p></p><h2 class="hear-wh-anchor-widget"><strong>Ameri, Your Food Is So Gay</strong><div id="§ameri-your-food-is-so-gay" class="hear-anchor-widget offset-top"><div class="hear-anchor-widget-button-ntaer"><div href=" class="hear-anchor-widget-button"><svg xmlns=" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-lep="round" stroke-lejo="round" class="hear-anchor-widget-in"><path d="M10 13a5 5 0 0 0 7.54.54l3-3a5 5 0 0 0-7.07-7.07l-1.72 1.71"></path><path d="M14 11a5 5 0 0 0-7.54-.54l-3 3a5 5 0 0 0 7.07 7.07l1.71-1.71"></path></svg></div></div></div></h2><p></p><p>I was ten 1970, a shy kid growg up a scb-oak suburb south of San Francis. Our hoe was pched on stilts sunk a steep hillsi, lookg out onto a ltle arroyo and to the hoe of two men I loved like uncl (and more eply than some of the uncl whose DNA I shared).</p><div class="ptned-image-ntaer"><figure><a class="image-lk is-viewable-img image2" target="_blank" href=" data-ponent-name="Image2ToDOM" rel><div class="image2-set"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset=" 424w, 848w, 1272w, 1456w" siz="100vw" /><img src=" width="1456" height="1919" data-attrs="{"src":"" class="sizg-normal" alt srcset=" 424w, 848w, 1272w, 1456w" siz="100vw" fetchprry="high" /></picture><div class="image-lk-expand"><svg xmlns=" width="16" height="16" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="#FFFFFF" stroke-width="2" stroke-lep="round" stroke-lejo="round" class="luci luci-maximize2"><polyle pots="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyle><polyle pots="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyle><le x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></le><le x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></le></svg></div></div></a><figptn class="image-ptn">Jam Beard forms a burger, 1953.</figptn></figure></div><p></p><p><span>But bis me and my olr brother, Walter, my mom, and my dad, everybody on our street spised Pat and Lou</span><div class="footnote-hoverrd-target"><a class="footnote-anchor" data-ponent-name="FootnoteAnchorToDOM" id="footnote-anchor-1-126673855" href=" rel>1</a></div><span>. At a time when was still a crime California for one man to give another man a blowjob, the neighbors hated them bee they shared the same enormo bed, draped a regal turquoise verlet. Hated them bee Lou stayed home like moms did, trollg Safeway for steaks, and stuffed potato to fix for Pat when he got home om the office.</span></p><p><span>(Why didn’t my parents share the general loathg for Pat and Lou, a disgt exprsed through passive avoidance, active shunng, and the ocsnal high-pched tll? I disvered later that my mom, bls her, is a total fag hag</span><div class="footnote-hoverrd-target"><a class="footnote-anchor" data-ponent-name="FootnoteAnchorToDOM" id="footnote-anchor-2-126673855" href=" rel>2</a></div><span>. And my dad always hated bulli— tmped his ambivalence about the gay thg.)</span></p><p>Pat and Lou did cktail hour nightly om a pair of velour bucket chairs, their beam-ceilged, ranch-style nyon hoe overlookg mass of srlet and purple iris unr the oaks. They put on matchg popl jumpsus and rduroy hoe mocss to sip Gibsons, tossg nuts to Kurt, their sleek miature schnzer, om fgers studd wh big-jeweled cktail rgs. On nights when my parents would go to the Iron Gate rtrant for shrimp smpi and saltimboc, they dropped boys off at Pat and Lou’s for babystg.</p><p>On those nights, Lou would ok crazy sh our mom never fixed, food so rich no adult should ever serve to a ten-year-old. There were sserol that ed Monterey Jack as a spensn medium for oliv, ground veal, and button mhrooms om a n. And there were Lou’s famo burgers, so rich and salty, so csted wh a mixture of ramelized onns, Roquefort cmbl, and Grey Poupon—a thick impasto gild beneath the electric broiler element—I uld only ever eat half before feelg sick. I loved every be.</p><p>Lookg back, I regnize Lou’s burgers my first taste of food that didn’t give a fuck about nutrn or the drab strictur of home enomics. They were librated for adult pleasure, acutely exprsive of a formalized richns—exactly the type of thg Jam Beard tght Amerins to eat (for all I know, Lou’s recipe was straight out of Beard). I see them now, those burgers, as unflchgly, unapologetilly, magnificently queer.</p><div><hr /></div><p></p><p><span>By 1970, Ameri’s tert food</span><strong> </strong><span>had fally progrsed om the stale ternatnal hte cuise of the 1950s—we were more cur about the world, and were willg to spend more on food and travel than ever before. Three gay guys—Beard, Richard Olney, and Craig Claiborne</span><div class="footnote-hoverrd-target"><a class="footnote-anchor" data-ponent-name="FootnoteAnchorToDOM" id="footnote-anchor-3-126673855" href=" rel>3</a></div><span>—would bee archects of morn food Ameri. You fd their fluence the okg of Thomas Keller and Daniel Patterson and the food Alice Waters</span><div class="footnote-hoverrd-target"><a class="footnote-anchor" data-ponent-name="FootnoteAnchorToDOM" id="footnote-anchor-4-126673855" href=" rel>4</a></div><span> has overseen four s of men at Chez Panisse. It’s food that tak pleasure serly, as an end self, an assertn of polics or a human birthright, the product of culture—this is the legacy of gay food wrers who shaped morn Amerin food.</span></p><div class="ptned-image-ntaer"><figure><a class="image-lk is-viewable-img image2" target="_blank" href=" data-ponent-name="Image2ToDOM" rel><div class="image2-set"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset=" 424w, 848w, 1272w, 1456w" siz="100vw" /><img src=" width="1456" height="1909" data-attrs="{"src":"" class="sizg-normal" alt srcset=" 424w, 848w, 1272w, 1456w" siz="100vw" loadg="lazy" /></picture><div class="image-lk-expand"><svg xmlns=" width="16" height="16" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="#FFFFFF" stroke-width="2" stroke-lep="round" stroke-lejo="round" class="luci luci-maximize2"><polyle pots="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyle><polyle pots="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyle><le x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></le><le x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></le></svg></div></div></a><figptn class="image-ptn">The lonels of Craig Claiborne, 1979.</figptn></figure></div><p><span>I adm, ’s tricky png somethg as sprawlg and amorpho as morn Amerin okg to anythg as poorly fed as a queer pot of view, and an exclively male one at that. I first stggled wh that task the late ’80s, when I was wrg about food for the </span><em>Sentel</em><span>, a now-funct gay weekly San Francis. My edor, the late Eric Hellman</span><div class="footnote-hoverrd-target"><a class="footnote-anchor" data-ponent-name="FootnoteAnchorToDOM" id="footnote-anchor-5-126673855" href=" rel>5</a></div><span>, would always ask, “Is there a gay sensibily? Can you see a work of art?”</span></p><p>As I was fallg love wh Lou’s Roquefort burgers, a gay activist New Mexi named Harry Hay was lnchg a movement lled the Radil Faeri— they’d go off for days-long Faerie Circl the wilrns, like all-male mi Burng Mans, only wh psilocyb-fueled circle jerks. Hay was a founr of the early gay rights group the Mattache Society. By 1970, he’d e to the ncln that gay men were spirually different om straight on—homosexuals had always been shamans and prophets, jeered, beaten ad, or barely tolerated, livg on the margs. (Hay, who died 2002, was anti-assiatnist, meang he would have been horrified to see the current stggle for gay people to achieve hetero marriage.) Gay guys were artists, form-givers, shapers of the broar culture that hated them.</p><p><span>I don’t totally buy Hay’s theory of queer exceptnalism, but my edor’s qutn—is there a gay sensibily?—beme a kd of koan as I stggled to navigate life the kchens where I worked (I was a food wrer part-time; my ma gig was okg rtrants). Even San Francis, gayt cy Ameri, homophobic dicks got all the prime le posns the plac I worked. In one kchen, was a nng joke that the salad statn was rerved for women and “effemat,” meang gay boys like me. On the outsi, I lghed along wh everybody. On the si, I told myself, </span><em>I’m fuckg better than all of you.</em></p><p><span>If there was a gay sensibily, you uld fd on the ld le when I was okg, where every plate I put up had a fierce edge born of imposed isolatn. The fish stews g off José’s sté statn might have been technilly perfect, but they were also mechanil</span><div class="footnote-hoverrd-target"><a class="footnote-anchor" data-ponent-name="FootnoteAnchorToDOM" id="footnote-anchor-6-126673855" href=" rel>6</a></div><span>. My </span><em>salas posé </em><span>were thickets of yearng, drifts of leav and flowers, sprigs of herbs and ty rrots that looked like they had been blown there by some mighty force of nature. I was fueled by sublimated rage, the outsir wh somethg to prove, takg the gredients I was hand and makg sure they transcend their lims.</span></p><div class="ptned-image-ntaer"><figure><a class="image-lk is-viewable-img image2" target="_blank" href=" data-ponent-name="Image2ToDOM" rel><div class="image2-set"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset=" 424w, 848w, 1272w, 1456w" siz="100vw" /><img src=" width="1350" height="1212" data-attrs="{"src":"" class="sizg-normal" alt srcset=" 424w, 848w, 1272w, 1456w" siz="100vw" loadg="lazy" /></picture><div class="image-lk-expand"><svg xmlns=" width="16" height="16" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="#FFFFFF" stroke-width="2" stroke-lep="round" stroke-lejo="round" class="luci luci-maximize2"><polyle pots="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyle><polyle pots="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyle><le x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></le><le x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></le></svg></div></div></a><figptn class="image-ptn">Richard Olney France, photo published by The D Mo Register, 1973.</figptn></figure></div><p><span>I regnize that same nvictn Olney. He grew up Marathon, Iowa, and expatriated to Paris to bee a pater, a or two after great gay expats like Jam Baldw famoly ped Ameri’s racism and pry. Olney turned out to be a so-so pater, but a way, his art played out the tails of daily life. He bought a broken-down farmhoe Solliès-Tous, fifty east of Marseille, and slowly scrabbled the life back to . He rved a we cellar out of limtone, gathered </span><em>serpolet (</em><span>wild thyme) on s hillsis summer for dryg, ma vegars and jams. And om the remiscenc of plumbers and stonemasons who showed up to work on his property, he llected tails on the rough-edged regnal db, terr, and matelot that even 1960s France were teeterg on the edge of extctn.</span></p><p><span>Jt as Walt Whman’s </span><em>Leav of Grass </em><span>isn’t so much a sgle book as is a livg body of poetic theory, Olney’s </span><em>Simple French Food (</em><span>1974) has a heart that beats. Julia’s </span><em>Masterg the Art of French Cookg </em><span>reads like a technil manual you prop open when obliged to ok for your hband’s boss; </span><em>Simple French Food </em><span>is a manifto for livg. In 1974, you uldn’t jt drive to the A&P and buy a bunch of gredients to start okg like Olney. You had to beg by changg your life.</span></p><p>Olney mentored Jeremiah Tower, the first formal chef at Chez Panisse, and Olney’s lover for a time. Waters ma pilgrimag to Solliès-Tous, and the soul of , the imperative to stand outsi of a spirls system, the immersive qualy of the food, and the yearng for a personal okg that begs wh sourcg—they rema the mol for every ser ok workg Ameri today. Olney was the queer ltle quiet kid on the salad statn who end up makg everybody want that spot.</p><p><span>Claiborne was Amerin food’s tablishment figure, blazers and tasseled loafers and an open table at Lutèce. Though he was officially closeted until 1982, the date of his rather strange, gimlet-soaked tobgraphy, </span><em>A Feast Ma for Lghter</em><span>, Claiborne lived the life of the gay profsnal mid-twentieth-century Ameri: officially a “bachelor,” sexlsly flntg his taste and discernment, the Mr. Belvere of food. In 1957, he beme the food edor of the </span><em>New York Tim</em><span>—a posn whout much chet the ’50s, when the Tim’ food sectn was as dull and service-oriented as the on every daily Ameri. But Claiborne elevated food to the level of cema or the ballet and ma food wrg matter, settg the foundatn for a far better wrer-cric like Jonathan Gold to have a platform as an observer of Amerin culture.</span></p><p><span>I remember porg over my mom’s py of Claiborne’s the </span><em>New York Tim Cookbook </em><span>when I was a kid, stoppg on a black-and-whe photo of what the ptn lled a “typil bnch”: glass of h-squeezed orange juice sunk to bigger glass of cshed ice, near a silver basket of shy, bump-topped brch. I wanted that life: wakg up a sunny apartment to face the day, the taste of butter and orange sweetns on my tongue like a medatn. Claiborne gave permissn to rpect pleasure eatg—even small pleasur—not as somethg guilty, but as the received wisdom of culture. </span><em>Bch, we’re eatg brche.</em></p><p>Beard did somethg siar, though wh a particularly Amerin slant. In an era when McDonald’s Ray Kroc was shrkg the hamburger to somethg you uld squeeze wh your weak hand to a golf ball–sized lump of grease and starch, Beard nvced that Amerin food is somethg eluctably large, hewn om gredients as priste as a virg fort.</p><p><span>In the 1930s</span><div class="footnote-hoverrd-target"><a class="footnote-anchor" data-ponent-name="FootnoteAnchorToDOM" id="footnote-anchor-7-126673855" href=" rel>7</a></div><span>, Beard was booted om Reed College Oregon after someone bted him for makg out wh another man</span><div class="footnote-hoverrd-target"><a class="footnote-anchor" data-ponent-name="FootnoteAnchorToDOM" id="footnote-anchor-8-126673855" href=" rel>8</a></div><span>. Beard’s okbooks have the whiff of sublimated sire: the open-air fantasi, stout flavors, abundant fats, and tons and tons of geo meat. Beard’s public persona was the bow-tied bachelor gourmand wh an unquenchable appete, and he rema Amerin food his own triple-XL image. Even before McDonald’s mass-produced them, burgers had always been cheap lunch-unter food. Beard ma them seem as monumental as an Abercrombie mol’s torso: three-ch drippg slabs of sirlo you’d ground yourself, grilled over charal, and hoisted onto thickly buttered homema buns—they’re the burgers on men of ser rtrants across Ameri. Beard nvced that burgers had always been that way, a reventn that ma the pursu of pleasure seem like some timels Amerin virtue.</span></p><p><span>Beard ma okay for Amerins to be hedonists at the table. Even his paid endorsements for brands like Birds Eye and Omaha Steaks, Beard nvced there was no shame aspirg to be gourmets, the way most of aspired to drive Cadillacs. </span><em>Jam Beard’s Amerin Cookery (</em><span>1972) was quietly subversive, a revisnist theory of Amerin food tradns that argued we had always been a natn that embraced the pleasur implic scrapple, Boston baked beans, and cheeburgers.</span></p><p><span>Beard was lled the “an of Amerin okery,” as if this new doctre of pleasure had the weight of scholarship behd . He occupied a cur persona that bed m wh total self-dulgence. On one of his regular trips to San Francis the 1980s, Beard ate at a rtrant where I worked, though on a night I was off. One of the bsers workg that night was a young gay guy wh boyish Amerin looks. He mentned to Beard that he wanted to be a baker, and the great man ved him to stop by his hotel the next morng to talk pastry. When the bser arrived, the an of Amerin food was seated a chair the hotel sue’s bedroom, wearg a silk robe; Beard’s assistant left the room. The aspirg baker told me he looked away at some pot the nversatn, and when he looked back Beard, still talkg pi and layer k, had opened his robe—unrneath he was naked. The fltered kid looked away, kept his ey averted. When he looked back, Beard had closed his robe aga, still talkg, like nothg had happened. That was the sence of Beard’s food: draped a rpectable Sulka robe</span><div class="footnote-hoverrd-target"><a class="footnote-anchor" data-ponent-name="FootnoteAnchorToDOM" id="footnote-anchor-9-126673855" href=" rel>9</a></div><span> that was always threateng to drop to expose unashamed hedonism.</span></p><p>That embrace of pleasure— set the stage for the luxury that fed Amerin rtrant food the 1980s and ’90s, when ahi tuna and viar and foie gras, crème aîche and masrpone showed up on men even midpriced rtrants. I thk helped Ameri embrace Slow Food, a movement that valu taste over rporate expediency and argu that the pursu of pleasure at the table is a polil act. But as for gays breakg out Amerin rtrant kchens, exprsg a queer pot of view their okg—well, apart om a few mavericks like Elizabeth Falkner—that hasn’t really happened. Pastry—like the ld le I was relegated to back my day—remas a safe space for gays the kchen. In a lot of ways we’re still on the g, even if queer food wrers fundamentally changed the way we thk about food this untry.</p><div><hr /></div><p></p><p><span>I don’t rell the last time Lou ma a Roquefort burger for me, but </span><strong> </strong><span>uldn’t have been long after 1970. When I was junr high, Pat suffered a heart attack and died—his mother and sisters me out om St. Louis and took the body back wh them; Lou was not ved to the funeral. Pat’s mother and sisters took everythg wh them: the cloth, the cktail rgs. The iris unr the oaks got patchy. Lou drank a lot. He found another boyiend, a short Canadian who drove a purple AMC Greml and who nobody liked, not even my mom (she thought he was “too gay”). I lost track of Lou when I went away to llege—my mom said he sold the hoe and was livg a mobile-home park near the ocean. She hardly ever went to vis.</span></p><p><span>After llege, I moved to San Francis and got my own boyiend. He ntued my food tn. We read passag om Olney’s </span><em>Simple French Food </em><span>out loud, and oked, and studied each other’s pleasure like scholars. #</span></p><p></p><div class="footnote" data-ponent-name="FootnoteToDOM"><a id="footnote-1-126673855" href=" class="footnote-number" ntentedable="false" rel>1</a><div class="footnote-ntent"><p><span>I dug up more on Pat and Lou’s liv St. Louis, and the homophobia they faced our neighborhood. See my say “</span><a href=" rel>Home Improvement</a><span>.”</span></p></div></div><div class="footnote" data-ponent-name="FootnoteToDOM"><a id="footnote-2-126673855" href=" class="footnote-number" ntentedable="false" rel>2</a><div class="footnote-ntent"><p>Ugh, “fag hag”—so glib, disrpectful, offensive. I’m sorry I ed . Si note: At 87, my mom still ador her gay iends.</p></div></div><div class="footnote" data-ponent-name="FootnoteToDOM"><a id="footnote-3-126673855" href=" class="footnote-number" ntentedable="false" rel>3</a><div class="footnote-ntent"><p><span>Ah, the plited notn of the closet. Part of my task wrg </span><em><a href=" rel>The Man Who Ate Too Much</a></em><span>, my 2020 bgraphy of Beard, was figurg out the often subtle dimensns of the closet the s after World War II, and how ’s never a simple bary of “” and “out.” Olney wasn’t closeted overt ways—startg wh his ductn terview for the U.S. Army 1945, where he pped to havg homosexual tennci. I suppose you uld argue, though, that Olney’s life France was a kd of fencg off om public view—like his oime iend Jam Baldw, who, we n say, was queer the ntemporary sense but bristled at the rctive label </span><em>gay</em><span>, Olney preferred to live outsi the btal Calvist homophobi-topia of Ameri. Olney built his life, and his work food, a way, a private refuge France, where you weren’t expected to publicly clare your sexualy.</span></p></div></div><div class="footnote" data-ponent-name="FootnoteToDOM"><a id="footnote-4-126673855" href=" class="footnote-number" ntentedable="false" rel>4</a><div class="footnote-ntent"><p>I still believe Alice’s rpect for the queer culary tradn, but stead of Patterson (whose food is geni) and Keller, I’d give a nod to queer chefs who ok wh the particular kd of sensualy this say’s about: Traci D Jards, Kylie Kwong, Ana Lo…</p></div></div><div class="footnote" data-ponent-name="FootnoteToDOM"><a id="footnote-5-126673855" href=" class="footnote-number" ntentedable="false" rel>5</a><div class="footnote-ntent"><p><span>Eric </span><a href=" rel>died</a><span> 1994, at the age of 40, om AIDS-related . RIP.</span></p></div></div><div class="footnote" data-ponent-name="FootnoteToDOM"><a id="footnote-6-126673855" href=" class="footnote-number" ntentedable="false" rel>6</a><div class="footnote-ntent"><p>Arrogant of me to trash José’s food while praisg my own, but ’s my seethg tratn over systemic homophobia that’s eptg here. That José is Lato suggts a workplace dynamic of petg and sometim overlappg opprsns.</p></div></div><div class="footnote" data-ponent-name="FootnoteToDOM"><a id="footnote-7-126673855" href=" class="footnote-number" ntentedable="false" rel>7</a><div class="footnote-ntent"><p>Wrong! Jam was shown the door out of Reed 1921.</p></div></div><div class="footnote" data-ponent-name="FootnoteToDOM"><a id="footnote-8-126673855" href=" class="footnote-number" ntentedable="false" rel>8</a><div class="footnote-ntent"><p><span>A male profsor, actually—see </span><em><a href=" rel>The Man Who Ate Too Much</a></em><span> to read who I believe was.</span></p></div></div><div class="footnote" data-ponent-name="FootnoteToDOM"><a id="footnote-9-126673855" href=" class="footnote-number" ntentedable="false" rel>9</a><div class="footnote-ntent"><p>Nope: basic whe terrycloth.</p><p class="button-wrapper" data-attrs="{"url":"" data-ponent-name="ButtonCreateButton"><a class="button primary" href=" rel><span>Share</span></a></p></div></div></div></div><div class="visibily-check"></div><div class="post-footer"><div class="pencraft ontend-pencraft-Box-module__flexGrow--mx4xz ontend-pencraft-Box-module__ret--VfQY8 ontend-pencraft-Box-module__display-flex--ZqeZt 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ontend-pencraft-Box-module__flex-directn-lumn--Rq7pk ontend-pencraft-Box-module__paddg-y-8--exiCC ontend-pencraft-Box-module__paddg-left-12--eE6bp"><h4 class="pencraft ontend-pencraft-Box-module__ret--VfQY8 ontend-pencraft-Text-module__size-16--fFowu ontend-pencraft-Text-module__le-height-20--p0dP8 ontend-pencraft-Text-module__weight-bold--Ps9DB ontend-pencraft-Text-module__font-text--QmNJR ontend-pencraft-Text-module__lor-primary--ud4Z0 ontend-pencraft-Text-module__ret--dW0zZ ontend-pencraft-Text-module__hear4--hH3cg">Ameri, Your Food Is So Gay: The Annotated Versn</h4><div class="pencraft ontend-pencraft-Box-module__ret--VfQY8 ontend-pencraft-Text-module__size-14--Ume6q ontend-pencraft-Text-module__le-height-20--p0dP8 ontend-pencraft-Text-module__weight-normal--s54Wf ontend-pencraft-Text-module__font-text--QmNJR ontend-pencraft-Text-module__lor-sendary--WRADg ontend-pencraft-Text-module__ret--dW0zZ ontend-pencraft-Text-module__body4--Pl3xY"></div></div></div><div class="pencraft 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type="image/webp" srcset=" /><img src=" siz="100vw" alt style="width: 32px; height: 32px;" width="64" height="64" class="ontend-ponents-rponsive_img-module__img--Pgjj2 ontend-rear2-Avatar-module__avatar--nE_uY" /></picture><div class="pencraft ontend-pencraft-Box-module__flexGrow--mx4xz ontend-pencraft-Box-module__ret--VfQY8 ontend-pencraft-Box-module__display-flex--ZqeZt ontend-pencraft-Box-module__flex-directn-lumn--Rq7pk ment-put-right"><textarea data-gramm="false" data-gramm_edor="false" data-enable-grammarly="false" name="body" placeholr="Wre a ment..."></textarea><div id="error-ntaer"></div><div class="pencraft ontend-pencraft-Box-module__ret--VfQY8 ontend-pencraft-Box-module__display-flex--ZqeZt ontend-pencraft-Box-module__flex-jtify-space-between--NvIcg ontend-pencraft-Box-module__flex-align-center--rSd6h ontend-pencraft-Box-module__paddg-top-8--VHq_j"></div></div></form></div><div class="ment-list post-page-root-ment-list"><div class="ment-list-ems"><div class="ment"><div id="ment-17064667" class="ment-anchor"></div><div id="ment-17064667-reply" class="ment-anchor"></div><table class="ment-ntent"><tr><td class="ment-head"><div class="profile-hover-rd-target ontend-rear2-ProfileAndPublitnHoverCard-module__profileHoverCardTarget--Od_YL"><div class="er-head"><a href="><div class="profile-img-wrap"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset=" /><img src=" siz="100vw" alt width="66" height="66" class="ontend-ponents-rponsive_img-module__img--Pgjj2" /></picture></div></a></div></div></td><td class="ment-rt"><div class="ment-meta"><span class="menter-name"><div class="visibily-check"></div><div class="pencraft ontend-pencraft-Box-module__ret--VfQY8 ontend-pencraft-Box-module__display-flex--ZqeZt ontend-pencraft-Box-module__display-le-flex--ZE941 ontend-pencraft-Box-module__flex-align-center--rSd6h ontend-pencraft-Box-module__flex-gap-4--zeW5_"><div class="profile-hover-rd-target ontend-rear2-ProfileAndPublitnHoverCard-module__profileHoverCardTarget--Od_YL"><a href="><div class="pencraft ontend-pencraft-Box-module__ret--VfQY8 ontend-pencraft-Text-module__size-14--Ume6q ontend-pencraft-Text-module__le-height-20--p0dP8 ontend-pencraft-Text-module__weight-semibold--LJBj3 ontend-pencraft-Text-module__font-text--QmNJR ontend-pencraft-Text-module__lor-pub-primary-text--RzL7j ontend-pencraft-Text-module__ret--dW0zZ ontend-pencraft-Text-module__body4--Pl3xY">Marian Bull</div></a></div><div class="ontend-pencraft-unstable-UserBadge-module__ntaer--ADexK"><svg role="img" style="height: 16px; width: 16px;" width="16" height="16" viewBox="0 0 40 40" fill="none" stroke-width="1.8" stroke="#000" xmlns="><g><tle></tle><path d="M17.8212 2.19198C19.5364 1.48152 21.4636 1.48152 23.1788 2.19198L31.198 5.51364C32.9132 6.2241 34.2759 7.58682 34.9864 9.30201L38.308 17.3212C39.0185 19.0364 39.0185 20.9636 38.308 22.6788L34.9864 30.698C34.2759 32.4132 32.9132 33.7759 31.198 34.4864L23.1788 37.808C21.4636 38.5185 19.5364 38.5185 17.8212 37.808L9.80201 34.4864C8.08682 33.7759 6.7241 32.4132 6.01364 30.698L2.69198 22.6788C1.98152 20.9636 1.98152 19.0364 2.69198 17.3212L6.01364 9.30201C6.7241 7.58682 8.08682 6.2241 9.80202 5.51364L17.8212 2.19198Z" stroke="#FF6719" stroke-width="4" fill="transparent"></path><path d="M27.1666 15L17.9999 24.1667L13.8333 20" stroke="#FF6719" stroke-width="4" stroke-lep="round" stroke-lejo="round"></path></g></svg></div></div></span><div class="ontend-rear2-ProfileAndPublitnHoverCard-module__publitnHoverCardTarget--UjFRs"><a href=" rel="nofollow" target="_blank" class="menter-publitn"><span>Wr Ms Hall </span></a></div><a href=" rel="nofollow" native class="ment-timtamp">Jun 8</a></div><div class="ment-body"><p><span>Such a joy to revis this piece!!!!!</span></p><div role="button" class="show-all-toggle"><div class="show-all-toggle-label">Expand full ment</div></div></div><div class="pencraft ontend-pencraft-Box-module__ret--VfQY8 ontend-pencraft-Box-module__display-flex--ZqeZt 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this post is so gay

As a gay Korean Amerin, I yearned for the privilege of beg heterosexual or whe. So I began wearg latex, a new sk.

Contents:

JAGUARS ACH KEV MAXEN OUT AS GAY HISTORIC ANNOUNCEMENT

The phrase “that’s so gay” has tradnally been unrstood as homophobic. Stonewall’s School Report argued this posn, and will be discsed their upg Edutn Conference. Stonewall argu… * this post is so gay *

Maxen origally ntacted gay NFL player Carl Nassib Febary 2022, who then nnected Maxen wh Outsports. Jacksonville Jaguars associate strength ach Kev Maxen me out as gay on Thursday what is believed to be a first for a male ach major U.

Kev Maxen me out as gay an terview wh Outsports.

I wrote this say 2013, after edor Chris Yg said y to my hasty, half-ass pch for Lucky Peach magaze’s Genr issue: an say on the fluence of gay food wrers the U. My piece, “Ameri, Your Food Is So Gay, ” was momento on a uple of levels, personal and cultural.

SHIFTG THE FOOD NARRATIVESUBSCRIBESIGN {"@NTEXT":","@TYPE":"NEWSARTICLE","URL":","MAENTYOFPAGE":","HEADLE":"AMERI, YOUR FOOD IS SO GAY: THE ANNOTATED VERSN","SCRIPTN":"MY QUEER FOOD CLASSIC OM 2013, WH NOT AND RRECTNS.","IMAGE":[{"@TYPE":"IMAGEOBJECT","URL":"}],"DATEPUBLISHED":"2023-06-07T22:21:08+00:00","DATEMODIFIED":"2023-06-07T22:21:08+00:00","ISACCSIBLEFORFREE":TE,"THOR":[{"@TYPE":"PERSON","NAME":"JOHN BIRDSALL","URL":","SCRIPTN":"WRER ON FOOD.","INTIFIER":"ER:715081","IMAGE":{"@TYPE":"IMAGEOBJECT","NTENTURL":","THUMBNAILURL":"}}],"PUBLISHER":{"@TYPE":"ORGANIZATN","NAME":"SHIFTG THE FOOD NARRATIVE","URL":","SCRIPTN":"FOOD STORI OF PLEX INTY, NOT FORTG CLICH\U00E9S.","TERACTNSTATISTIC":{"@TYPE":"INTERACTNCOUNTER","NAME":"SUBSCRIBERS","TERACTNTYPE":","ERINTERACTNCOUNT":1000},"INTIFIER":"PUB:784359","LOGO":{"@TYPE":"IMAGEOBJECT","URL":","NTENTURL":","THUMBNAILURL":"},"IMAGE":{"@TYPE":"IMAGEOBJECT","URL":","NTENTURL":","THUMBNAILURL":"}}}SHARE THIS POSTAMERI, YOUR FOOD IS SO GAY: THE ANNOTATED COPY LKFACEBOOKEMAILNOTOTHERAMERI, YOUR FOOD IS SO GAY: THE ANNOTATED VERSN

And my dad always hated bulli— tmped his ambivalence about the gay thg.

Three gay guys—Beard, Richard Olney, and Craig Claiborne—would bee archects of morn food Ameri. It’s food that tak pleasure serly, as an end self, an assertn of polics or a human birthright, the product of culture—this is the legacy of gay food wrers who shaped morn Amerin lonels of Craig Claiborne, 1979.

I first stggled wh that task the late ’80s, when I was wrg about food for the Sentel, a now-funct gay weekly San Francis. My edor, the late Eric Hellman, would always ask, “Is there a gay sensibily? ”As I was fallg love wh Lou’s Roquefort burgers, a gay activist New Mexi named Harry Hay was lnchg a movement lled the Radil Faeri— they’d go off for days-long Faerie Circl the wilrns, like all-male mi Burng Mans, only wh psilocyb-fueled circle jerks.

THIS IS SO GAY

Hay was a founr of the early gay rights group the Mattache Society. By 1970, he’d e to the ncln that gay men were spirually different om straight on—homosexuals had always been shamans and prophets, jeered, beaten ad, or barely tolerated, livg on the margs.

(Hay, who died 2002, was anti-assiatnist, meang he would have been horrified to see the current stggle for gay people to achieve hetero marriage. ) Gay guys were artists, form-givers, shapers of the broar culture that hated them. I don’t totally buy Hay’s theory of queer exceptnalism, but my edor’s qutn—is there a gay sensibily?

THAT'S SO GAY

Even San Francis, gayt cy Ameri, homophobic dicks got all the prime le posns the plac I worked. In one kchen, was a nng joke that the salad statn was rerved for women and “effemat, ” meang gay boys like me.

On the si, I told myself, I’m fuckg better than all of there was a gay sensibily, you uld fd on the ld le when I was okg, where every plate I put up had a fierce edge born of imposed isolatn. He grew up Marathon, Iowa, and expatriated to Paris to bee a pater, a or two after great gay expats like Jam Baldw famoly ped Ameri’s racism and pry.

WHAT DO YOU SAY TO “THAT’S SO GAY” AND OTHER ANTI-LGBTQ COMMENTS?

Though he was officially closeted until 1982, the date of his rather strange, gimlet-soaked tobgraphy, A Feast Ma for Lghter, Claiborne lived the life of the gay profsnal mid-twentieth-century Ameri: officially a “bachelor, ” sexlsly flntg his taste and discernment, the Mr. One of the bsers workg that night was a young gay guy wh boyish Amerin looks.

But as for gays breakg out Amerin rtrant kchens, exprsg a queer pot of view their okg—well, apart om a few mavericks like Elizabeth Falkner—that hasn’t really happened.

Pastry—like the ld le I was relegated to back my day—remas a safe space for gays the kchen. He found another boyiend, a short Canadian who drove a purple AMC Greml and who nobody liked, not even my mom (she thought he was “too gay”).

RON “DON’T SAY GAY” DESANTIS PLOTS MAJOR SHAKP AMID REPORTS HIS CRAPPY MPAIGN IS “ON THE BRK”

The phrase “that’s so gay” has tradnally been unrstood as homophobic. Stonewall argu that the phrase has a harmful effect on young lbian, gay and bisexual people’s tn and well-beg.

"THAT'S SO GAY" IS JT SO WRONG

Yet the ial fdgs om my terviews wh 40 gay youth om four universi suggts a more plex picture, wh no clear agreement on what the phrase means or s effects.

Consir Joe, a 19-year-old gay stunt at an ele universy.

He said: “I thk breaks down barriers between the straight and gay muny… I e a lot. ” Siarly, Neil, gay and aged 18, said: “I don’t fd rogatory any way, probably bee I say as well.

WE N THANK GAY ACTIVISTS FOR TODAY’S EPIMIC OF TRANS NFN

How are we to unrstand a phrase that olr people fd homophobic, but many younger people do not fd offensive and even e themselv? My tert the phrase “that’s so gay” veloped when I rearched straight male stunts at sixth form lleg.

The young men had openly gay iends, supported gay rights and nmned homophobia. Yet several of them would also say “that’s so gay” when trated.

*BEAR-MAGAZINE.COM* THIS POST IS SO GAY

This Is So Gay .

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