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At a new Fashn Instute of Technology show, an attempt to wre gay men and lbians ‘back to history.’

Contents:

IN SEARCH OF A GAY ATHETIC

Brish edian Sacha Baron Cohen's new movie about a fictnal gay Atrian fashn fanatic who wants to be "the most famo Atrian sce Adolf Hler" has some Atrians up arms even before s release next month. * gay austrian fashion guru *

PASSAU, Germany, June 16, 2009 — -- Brish edian Sacha Baron Cohen's new movie about a fictnal gay Atrian fashn fanatic who wants to be "the most famo Atrian sce Adolf Hler" has some Atrians up arms even before s release next lead character, Bno, sometim spelled Brüno, is also a TV prenter reportg for the "Voice of Atrian Youth TV. "I have three thgs mon wh the lead character Bno; I'm male, I'm gay and I'm Atrian.

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“And she answered, ‘Probably not as much as gay men.

Steele and her lleague, Fred Dennis — mak a gent se for a more balanced view of fashn history, one that, given the wily held perceptn that gay men domate fashn, has curly tend to skew heterosexual and male.

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Steele add, “Was how are you to gog to monstrate that there is a gay athetic?

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” That was the task when they began anizg the show two years ago, wh ltle to go on but a termatn to rtore to a proper place history the untls lbian, gay, bisexual and transgenr people who, whout qutn, ntributed greatly to fashn. Somehow, gay men and lbians were left out of most official acunts of fashn history, Ms. ”Coverg three centuri through 100 garments, “Queer History of Fashn” intifi and chronicl the hidn--pla-sight prence of “queers” (the curators’ preferred term) — om the flamboyant 18th-century personag known as molli, to 20th-century avatars of butch lbian elegance, gay clon, drag queens and marquee signers whose open-secret sexualy was long kept ncealed.

In the age of gay marriage, n seem almost implsible that signers like Christian Dr, Bill Blass, Halston and untls others spent their profsnal liv the closet, or that homophobia was rampant a field where stereotyp have long held that many creative typ were gay. ’ ” at tim which their sexualy was not jt unwele but often illegal, gay men, bisexuals and lbians improvised a social theater most notably exprsed, Ms. “But then, when you looked more eply to the history, you found the proto-gay cultur ci like London, Paris, Amsterdam.

” (In fact, you wouldn’t need to, sce the gay historian Rictor Norton thoroughly explored this particular gay subculture a 1992 book, “Mother Clap’s Molly Hoe.

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And that grim fact n be found sight to the necsy for visg systems of vert signs and symbols, visual s gay people improvised rponse to opprsn. Whether there evolved out of this a “gay athetic” is arguable, though n certaly be supposed that gay and lbian people may historilly have found a haven fashn bee, as Ms.

Steele suggted, offered “a chance to create another world reactn to a homophobic society. Steele add, notg that Dr, the great French uturier, never me out for fear of shockg his mother; that the Atrian-born novator Rudi Gernreich, a gay activist private life, never dared e out publicly for fear of portatn; that the visnary Brish fashn edor Madge Garland was shiered by Brish Vogue when her sexualy was revealed. Even the award-wng ntemporary signer Narciso Rodriguez once briefly nsired abandong a reer fashn, as he explas an say the talog for the exhibn, bee his parents were alarmed that he would “go gay” if he did.

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“The perceptn now is that gay is O.

“Even as a gay man, I don’t know my own history, ” he Sanrs, the archect and queer theorist who signed the exhibn, said: “As outsirs, as queers, gays and lbians have always had to have feelers out, to be more aware of d signifiers.

To suggt the implic reciprol relatnship between gay culture and high fashn, Mr.

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Beneath ns a purple platform for displayg styl associated directly wh gay subcultur: fashn’s straight ego and s lavenr id. “Bill was one of the first openly gay men men’s wear, the Donna Karan of men, ” Mr. It was important to track gay prence and mark s progrs out of the closet.

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“You n’t unrstand fashn until you put those gay people back .

”A versn of this article appears prt on, Sectn E, Page 10 of the New York edn wh the headle: In Search of a Gay Athetic.

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The 10 Most Influential Gay Fashn Bloggers .

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