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iRsSlw"><a class="RubricLk-gRWSOU fgWnkQ bric__lk" href="/culture/annals-of-gastronomy"><span class="RubricName-fVtemz cLxcNi">Annals of Gastronomy</span></a></div></div></div><h1 data-ttid="ContentHearHed" class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ ContentHearHed-NCyCC iUEiRd NbxED hpJvIc">Are We Done Hatg Bnch?</h1></div><div class="ContentHearAccredatn-lfctVB cKRKZx ntent-hear__accredatn" data-ttid="ContentHearAccredatn"><div class="ContentHearByle-kmPyCa gvUmxJ"><div class="ContentHearByleContent-dpPmNn DRFq"><div data-ttid="BylWrapper" class="BylWrapper-KIudk irTIfE byl ContentHearByl-cZqgyJ bqbBYQ"><p class="ByleWrapper-jWHrLH ivtvgj byle byl__byle" data-ttid="ByleWrapper" emProp="thor" emType="><span emProp="name" class="ByleNamWrapper-jbHncj fuDQVo"><span data-ttid="ByleName" class="ByleName-kwmrLn cYaBaU byle__name"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BylePreamble-iJolpQ iUEiRd jslZfG gnILss byle__preamble">By </span><a class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BaseLk-eNWuiM ByleLk-gEnFiw iUEiRd ggMZaT cXqSTL eErqIx byle__name-lk button" href="/ntributors/sadie-ste">Sadie Ste</a></span></span></p></div><time data-ttid="ContentHearPublishDate" dateTime="2018-05-10T10:00:00-04:00" class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ ContentHearPublishDate-eIBicG iUEiRd kYZrFA kEBrdf">May 10, 2018</time></div></div></div></div><div class="LightboxWrapper-dxsWBV hhylRt"><div class="ContentHearLeadAsset-hGbumP iWPCcH lead-asset ContentHearLeadAssetWrapper-hfXHEc fTrSlG lead-asset--width-smallle" data-ttid="ContentHearLeadAsset"><figure class="ContentHearLeadAssetContent-kOfYSG dRGWbI"><div class="ContentHearLeadAssetContentMedia-bLEIpi jjhWdS lead-asset__ntent__photo"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW jvZaPI rponsive-asset ContentHearRponsiveAsset-bREgIb khLUzS"><div data-tt="aspect-rat-ntaer" class="AspectRatContaer-bJHpJz jgsWEn"><div class="aspect-rat--overlay-ntaer"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO KhjZz ContentHearRponsiveAsset-bREgIb khLUzS rponsive-image rponsive-image--expandable"><source media="(max-width: 767px)" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w, 960w" siz="100vw"/><source media="(m-width: 768px)" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w, 960w, 1280w, 1600w, 1920w, 2240w" siz="100vw"/><img alt="Image may nta Human Person Rtrant Cafeteria Food Meal People Eatg and Datg" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src="></picture></div></div></span><div class="CaptnWrapper-jSZdqE iTuhkZ ptn ContentHearLeadAssetCaptn-hPWmSN kuCzGS"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ CaptnText-bHjzlu iUEiRd hWyo iXWezO ptn__text">It has bee monplace to look upon the meal wh srn, yet by some measur we are the midst of a full-sle revival.</span><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ CaptnCred-ejegDm iUEiRd iicloT jbIJNS ptn__cred">Photograph by Chris Magg for The New Yorker</span></div></div></figure><div data-ttid="ContentHearLeadRailAnchor" class="ContentHearLeadRailAnchor-jYVcDc 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class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK kHBDeH grid grid-margs grid-ems-2 ArticlePageChunksGrid-hfxa bjczjj grid-layout--adrail narrow wi-adrail"><div class="GridItem-buujkM stRKV grid--em grid-layout__ntent"><div class="BodyWrapper-kufPGa EOneK body body__ntaer article__body" data-journey-hook="client-ntent" data-ttid="BodyWrapper"><div class="body__ner-ntaer"><p class="has-dropp has-dropp__lead-standard-headg">As wh so many thgs this fickle world, ’s hard to keep track of what we’re supposed to thk about bnch. On the one hand, ’s bee monplace to look upon the meal wh srn: ’s basic, ’s vulgar, ’s for suckers. “Bnch is Gay,” a ffee mug sold at the ironic New York dishware store Fishs Eddy reads; “<a href=">Bnch Is for Jerks</a>,” a <em>Tim</em> Op-Ed clar. Even <a data-offer-url=" class="external-lk" data-event-click="{"element":"ExternalLk","outgogURL":"" href=" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Mariah Carey</a> noted recently, on Twter, that when a iend lled and asked her to do bnch she rpond, “Come on.. I don’t do bnch,” and “suggted lner stead.” “On some ep, stctive level, you sense the malignancy of bnch,” the thors of the pro-dner-party manifto “<a data-offer-url=" class="external-lk" data-event-click="{"element":"ExternalLk","outgogURL":"" href=" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Bnch Is Hell</a>” wre their book’s troductn. “Perhaps you’re a bookstore, snng the words through a post-bnch mimosa fog, your wallet lightened by eighteen bucks wasted on two eggs and a piece of toast. Your belly is full, yet you feel empty. <em>Spirually</em> empty.”</p><p class="paywall">Yet, by other measur, we seem to be the midst of a full-sle bnch revival—what Gb Street recently termed a new “<a data-offer-url=" class="external-lk" data-event-click="{"element":"ExternalLk","outgogURL":"" href=" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">goln age</a>.” Rtrants like abcV, Roman’s, and Chez Ma Tante are servg novative dish signed to “w over even the strongt bnch skeptics”: nut yogurt wh pistach granola, baked egg wh llard greens alla’amatriciana, revamped kedgeree, and, on the ld new bnch menu at Olmsted, Prospect Heights, a classic B.E.C. reimaged as an egg roll. There has been a recent proliferatn of <a href=">all-day fés</a>, tablishments that hew to bnch’s ee-spired blurrg of nventnal meal boundari. It n seem as though the natn is irreparably divid between those who nsir bnch—like rosé or cupk—too cheap a punchle to warrant the joke, and others still willg to le up dutifully for hours orr to eat and photograph . As Carrie Bradshaw might have put , after a late-neti Sunday-bnch rep wh the girls, I uldn’t help but wonr: How did an nocuo meal of eggs and breadstuffs bee the foc of so much ntroversy?</p><p class="paywall">In fairns, bnch has always been somewhat divisive. It was first ced <em>Hunter’s Weekly</em> magaze, 1895, to scribe a meal for newspapermen and other “Saturday-night roers” too raffish, apparently, to hew to rpectable mealtim. The English wrer Guy Berger wrote of the nascent portmante, “Bnch is cheerful, sociable and cg. It is talk-pellg. It puts you a good temper, mak you satisfied wh yourself and your fellow begs, sweeps away the worri and bwebs of the week.”⁣ Not everyone was sold. In 1951, Ey Post plaed that the very word “bnch” “has a hurried lunch-wagon suggtivens,” and “lls to md stan at a lunch unter but not the bety of hospable livg.” In ncln, “luncheon or lunch, never bnch.”</p><p class="paywall">Wh the advent of the yuppie, who, the late sixti, took to sippg mimosas fern bars om ast to ast, bnchg suggted a new way of smopolan livg: a Sunday church of nversatn and food at the swgg Maxwell’s Plum or Henry Ai’s rather than whatever uptight doctre narrow parents had once flicted. In the halcyon sexual-revolutn years, bnch brought a gloss of adult civily to the activi of the night before—though that gloss has perhaps fad over time. In the morn bnch era, has bee mon to see ashen-faced upl wag le on a Sunday morng, swiggg Gatora; as the food wrer Jeff Gordier put , “Bnch is the gastronomic versn of the walk of shame.”</p><le-embed name="feature-flt" attrs="[object Object]" childTyp="image" ntentType="llout:feature-flt"><figure class="AssetEmbedWrapper-eVDQiB byBkf asset-embed"><div class="AssetEmbedAssetContaer-eJxoAx dBHGoQ asset-embed__asset-ntaer"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW kGxnNB rponsive-asset AssetEmbedRponsiveAsset-cXBNxi eCxVQK asset-embed__rponsive-asset"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO KhjZz AssetEmbedRponsiveAsset-cXBNxi eCxVQK asset-embed__rponsive-asset rponsive-image rponsive-image--expandable"><noscript><img alt="This image may nta Food Bread Panke Egg Human Person Wristwatch Dish and Meal" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src=" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w, 960w, 1280w, 1600w" siz="100vw"/></noscript></picture></span></div><div class="CaptnWrapper-jSZdqE iTuhkZ ptn AssetEmbedCaptn-fNQBPI fmQnYP asset-embed__ptn"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ CaptnCred-ejegDm iUEiRd iicloT jbIJNS ptn__cred">Photograph by Chris Magg for The New Yorker</span></div></figure></le-embed><p class="paywall">Of urse, when I was first troduced to bnch, as a child, the subtleti were lost on me. This was the bnch Stone Age of the neteen-eighti. When I picture , ’s as a montage of dub eggs Benedicts and Shirley Templ dark pubs that all smelled vaguely of wet rag—and whose ice water, those amber-shad plastic cups, always tasted slightly of bleach. Sometim there was a ee basket of ld, flaccid popovers. I thought was fabulo: the apex of chic. It wasn’t until my early twenti that I learned there was e to be ashamed. The apple that robbed me of my nocence was “<a data-offer-url=" class="external-lk" data-event-click="{"element":"ExternalLk","outgogURL":"" href=" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Kchen Confintial</a>,” which Anthony Bourda explaed not only the bnch tricks employed by disaffected and huner chefs—strag table butter to make hollandaise that then sat around breedg bacteria—but a certa srn for the dup who led up to spend twenty dollars on a meal that st mere cents and the week’s leftovers to prepare.</p><div class="Contaer-bkChBi byNLHx"></div><p class="paywall">“As a chef, I saw as a vil’s barga that was irristibly profable but me at the st of an unhappy kchen staff,” Bourda told me recently, by e-mail. “As a ctomer on my days off, I hated bee was crowd, and my hate was only enhanced by my knowledge of the actual food sts vers the flated menu pric. Later, as an unemployable dg addict, The only jobs I uld get were as a bnch specialist (bee no one else at good rtrants wanted to ok eggs) which is why the smell of home i will always smell like shame and feat to me.” He add that “accs to unlimed mimosas seems to ve a crowd cled to all varieti of douchery.”</p><div><div class="ConsumerMarketgUnThemedWrapper-iUTMTf jssHut nsumer-marketg-un nsumer-marketg-un--article-mid-ntent" role="prentatn" aria-hidn="te"><div class="nsumer-marketg-un__slot nsumer-marketg-un__slot--article-mid-ntent nsumer-marketg-un__slot---ntent"></div><div class="journey-un"></div></div></div><p class="paywall">A uple of years ago, a clip ma the rounds that did nothg to dispel bnch’s associatn wh douchery: an iPhone vio, taken by the fur neighbor of a Flatiron District tablishment servg “bottomls bnch,” which portrayed patrons varly vomg, punchg one another, fallg to stupors, and braggg about their fai’ real-tate holdgs. As Brendan Francis Newnam, a -thor of “Bnch Is Hell,” explaed, the meal is emblematic of a larger problem of arrted velopment: “In llege, you jt roll to a dg hall and n get waffl any time of day. And that ethos seems to ntue wh a lot of young adults,” he said. “It’s really about the permanent adolcence of the Amerin human, and I’m not sure that’s great for as a society.”</p><p class="paywall">I n’t make any special claims to matury. But then, for me, the appeal of bnch has never been the lure of bottomls mimosas, or the challenge of a tough rervatn or even a creative menu. It’s that I fd the clichés of the form reassurg. I like eggs and ffee, I love a pastry basket, and I enjoy the ftivy of a weekend-only meal. As such, I have a handful of undistguished rtrants that I vis, ee of lists and hype, where I n read through the Sunday papers and nosh on my home i peace, whout a long que of prospective ders starg angrily at my empty plate. Only the other day, om my regular wdow table at a neighborhood French rtrant where the only juice lor is orange, I watched wonr as dozens of people assembled across the street for their chance to drk and photograph a <a href=">celebrated Bloody Mary</a> garnished wh a small hamburger, three tater tots, and a pickled jalapeño. A few blocks south, sophistit were dulgg an avodo-toast dosa wh argan oil. We’d all emerge om our bnch feelg superr, our different ways—the one immutable of life New York.</p></div></div></div><div class="GridItem-buujkM fVLMby grid--em grid-layout__asi"><asi class="PersistentAsiWrapper-VGrR daRVRt persistent-asi" style="posn:absolute;top:to;height:to" data-ttid="PersistentAsiWrapper"><div class="StickyBoxWrapper-jfYB jxBcTH sticky-box ArticlePageSplAdRail-OyjwD jikppc"><div class="StickyBoxPrimary-dzWDWL cdhYoN sticky-box__primary"><div class="ArticlePageSplAdRailContent-jsltpq iZDmmY spl-ad-rail-ntent"><div class="ArticlePageSplAdRailTop-jUrrVY jzzFg"><div class="StickyBoxWrapper-jfYB jxBcTH sticky-box"><div class="StickyBoxPrimary-dzWDWL cdhYoN sticky-box__primary"><div class="AdWrapper-dQtivb fZrssQ ad ad--rail"><div class="ad__slot ad__slot--rail" data-no-id="mhx3e"></div></div><div class="ConsumerMarketgUnThemedWrapper-iUTMTf jssHut nsumer-marketg-un nsumer-marketg-un--display-rail" role="prentatn" aria-hidn="te"><div class="nsumer-marketg-un__slot 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grid-margs grid-ems-2 PaywallInleBarrierWhWrapperGrid-fyrGfS kLQIUk grid-layout--adrail narrow wi-adrail"><div class="GridItem-buujkM stRKV grid--em grid-layout__ntent"><div class="body body__le-barrier article__body"><div class="ntaer ntaer--body"><div class="ntaer--body-ner"><asi class="PaywallInleBarrierWrapper-iBnuqk lfXXa-D" data-ttid="PaywallInleBarrierWrapper"><div class="ConsumerMarketgUnThemedWrapper-iUTMTf jssHut nsumer-marketg-un nsumer-marketg-un--paywall-le-barrier" role="prentatn" aria-live="pole" aria-hidn="te"><div class="nsumer-marketg-un__slot nsumer-marketg-un__slot--paywall-le-barrier"></div><div class="journey-un"></div></div></asi></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK kHBDeH grid grid-margs grid-ems-2 ContentWrapperGrid-fvkmBv brYtrA grid-layout--adrail narrow wi-adrail"><div class="GridItem-buujkM stRKV grid--em grid-layout__ntent"><div class="body body__ntaer"><div class="ntaer ntaer--body"><div 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ContentFooterTagCloud-krQmRG ZLGh"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ TagCloudSectnHear-cOforY iUEiRd bPyAoD kQQRmu">More:</span><a href="/tag/dg" class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BaseLk-eNWuiM TagCloudLk-kvjZFu iUEiRd ggMZaT gFob hIhJOI"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ TagCloudName-eAUnLd iUEiRd gwIVBQ bUkXwu">Dg</span></a><a href="/tag/bnch" class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BaseLk-eNWuiM TagCloudLk-kvjZFu iUEiRd ggMZaT gFob hIhJOI"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ TagCloudName-eAUnLd iUEiRd gwIVBQ bUkXwu">Bnch</span></a><a href="/tag/food" class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BaseLk-eNWuiM TagCloudLk-kvjZFu iUEiRd ggMZaT gFob hIhJOI"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ TagCloudName-eAUnLd iUEiRd gwIVBQ bUkXwu">Food</span></a><a href="/tag/anthony-bourda" class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BaseLk-eNWuiM TagCloudLk-kvjZFu iUEiRd ggMZaT gFob hIhJOI"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ TagCloudName-eAUnLd iUEiRd gwIVBQ bUkXwu">Anthony Bourda</span></a></div></div></div></div><div data-ttid="ContentFooterBottom" class="ContentFooterBottom-jwWZfC kcbyiW"><div class="ContentFooterNewsletterContentWrapper-bmjtna kixtae"><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK kHBDeH grid grid-margs grid-ems-2 grid-layout--adrail narrow wi-adrail"><div class="GridItem-buujkM stRKV grid--em grid-layout__ntent"><div data-ttid="NewsletterSubscribeFormWrapper" class="NewsletterSubscribeFormWrapper-fCqqkN jKSBhE newsletter-subscribe-form ContentFooterNewsletterForm-hKeYwa liPqcf"><div data-ttid="NewsletterSubscribeFormHedDekWrapper" class="NewsletterSubscribeFormHedDekWrapper-fpMElW eglIBL"><h3 class="NewsletterSubscribeFormDangeroHed-kRwWjt feDzQf newsletter-subscribe-form__hed ContentFooterNewsletterForm-hKeYwa liPqcf">The Food Scene</h3><div class="NewsletterSubscribeFormDek-kXonvc grEaES newsletter-subscribe-form__k">Helen Rosner on what, where, and how to eat.</div></div><div 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class="SpanWrapper-umhxW kGxnNB rponsive-asset SummaryItemRponsiveAsset-hjGIGg bDvSkO summary-em__image"><div data-tt="aspect-rat-ntaer" class="AspectRatContaer-bJHpJz jMoLpX"><div class="aspect-rat--overlay-ntaer"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa SummaryItemRponsiveAsset-hjGIGg bDvSkO summary-em__image rponsive-image"><noscript><source media="(max-width: 767px)" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w" siz="100vw"/><source media="(m-width: 768px)" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w" siz="100vw"/><img alt="The Case Agast Open Kchens" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src="></noscript></picture></div></div></span></a></div><div class="SummaryItemContent-eiDYMl XMZX summary-em__ntent"><div class="RubricWrapper-dKmCNX kImuKS bric bric--disvery SummaryItemRubric-dguGKN lapGFj summary-em__bric"><span class="RubricName-fVtemz cLxcNi">Annals of Gastronomy</span></div><a class="SummaryItemHedLk-civM dVrbhU summary-em-trackg__hed-lk summary-em__hed-lk" 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