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data-ttid="PersistentSocialStart"></div><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK kHBDeH grid grid-margs grid-ems-2 grid-layout--adrail narrow wi-adrail"><div class="GridItem-buujkM stRKV grid--em grid-layoutntent"><div class="grid-layoutntent"><div class="RunwayShowPageGalleryCta-fmTQJF FtdcL"><a data-ttid="ntentPromoEmbedWrapper" href="/fashn-shows/sprg-2017-menswear/hood-by-air/slishow/llectn" class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BaseLk-eNWuiM ContentPromoEmbedWrapper-wTiLP iUEiRd hHRAkO cDOurZ gvjunS"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW jvZaPI rponsive-asset ContentPromoEmbedRponsiveAsset-zzLFw hbwssY"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa ContentPromoEmbedRponsiveAsset-zzLFw hbwssY rponsive-image"><img alt="Image may nta Clothg Apparel Sleeve Human Person Floor Fashn Robe and Gown" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-imageimage" src=" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w, 960w, 1280w" siz="100vw"/></picture></span><div class="ContentPromoEmbedTextContaerWrapper-bXTsKh 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data-ttid="BodyWrapper"><div class="bodyner-ntaer"><p><a href=">Hood By Air</a> mak thgs difficult. The imag were shot days after s Sprg 2017 show Paris, a enzied cise semi-darkns through a gay sna a seedy part of the Marais that culmated a synchronized swim the hammam’s subterranean pool (don’t thk: Bby Berkeley). The cloth were glimpsed only passg, as mols prsed agast bystanrs and then moved along. “We revis thgs that people know about HBA here, like logo placement. Bee ’s regnizable the dark,” said Shayne Oliver postshow. “We ph newer ias forward the light.”</p><p>The light he’s talkg about is Hood By Air’s biannual shows that are part of New York women’s Fashn Week, staged wh creasgly polished productn valu (and, ed, lots of lights). While Oliver himself is loath to put labels like <em>menswear</em> or <em>womenswear</em> on his garments, he unrstands the mands of prentg llectns wh those market rtrictns. Hence the fact his Paris “shows” boytt the nway favor of atmospheric lol and unnventnal formats. “We jt want to celebrate Hood By Air the men’s market,” said Oliver. “When people are reviewg agast somethg that is very tailored, feels weird . . . we’re not petg wh them.”</p><div><div class="ConsumerMarketgUnThemedWrapper-iUTMTf jssHut nsumer-marketg-un nsumer-marketg-un--article-mid-ntent" role="prentatn" aria-hidn="te"><div class="nsumer-marketg-unslot nsumer-marketg-unslot--article-mid-ntent nsumer-marketg-unslot---ntent"></div><div class="journey-un"></div></div></div><p>So what are the January and July shows all about for Oliver? Rearch and velopment, seems; he talked about the garments actg as the reference for the show to be staged September, also acknowledgg the very real bs behd this creativy—that the cloth will drop earlier, satisfyg retailers wh an advance livery. Almost like a Hood By Air rellectn then, although the gen plexy of Oliver’s work uldn’t be further om bland mercialism. There’s somethg unsettlg about what Oliver shows, often wh implitns of vlence the slicg, mutilated piec distortg perceptns of the body wh. But he saw the looks as a kd of “posive utilarianism,” also lkg to the ary theme that ran through the season. Although Oliver’s utily wound up hospal garb: Rather than garments slicg apart the body attack, the outfs were centered around healg, wh their tss, bandag, and even built- leg brac. What was bandage and what was bondage? The ntrast between flh strapped for pleasure and flh strapped to cure pa was never que clear. Oliver said the spac were about relaxatn, about a relaxed attu to sexualy, and an ease wh the body. It wound up like a Netflix-and-chill ssn watchg <em>The Texas Cha Saw Massacre</em>, helped by a cibel-shatterg soundtrack. It was unfortable, but also phed out of our fort zone.</p></div></div></div><div class="GridItem-buujkM fVLMby grid--em grid-layoutasi"><div class="StickyBoxWrapper-jfYB jxBcTH sticky-box"><div class="StickyBoxPrimary-dzWDWL cdhYoN sticky-boxprimary"><div class="AdWrapper-dQtivb fZrssQ ad ad--rail"><div class="adslot adslot--rail" data-no-id="7xdsy4"></div></div><div class="ConsumerMarketgUnThemedWrapper-iUTMTf jssHut nsumer-marketg-un nsumer-marketg-un--display-rail" role="prentatn" aria-hidn="te"><div class="nsumer-marketg-unslot nsumer-marketg-unslot--display-rail"></div><div class="journey-un"></div></div></div><div class="StickyBoxPlaceholr-grPmrg dxAvXx"></div></div></div></div><div class="RowWrapper-UmqTg HEhan full-bleed-ad row-mid-ntent-ad"><div class="StickyMidContentAdWrapper-fSBzwl drzyIa ad-stickymidntent"><div class="AdWrapper-dQtivb fZrssQ ad ad--mid-ntent should-hold-space"><div class="adslot adslot--mid-ntent" data-no-id="a3ofe"></div></div></div></div><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK kHBDeH grid grid-margs grid-ems-2 ArticlePageChunksGrid-hfxa bjczjj grid-layout--adrail narrow wi-adrail"><div class="GridItem-buujkM stRKV grid--em grid-layoutntent"><div class="BodyWrapper-kufPGa dUONRr body bodyntaer articlebody" data-journey-hook="client-ntent" data-ttid="BodyWrapper"><div class="bodyner-ntaer"><p>What Oliver do is excg bee speaks to people. His fashn seems progrsive, difficult even, due to s odd proportns and strange slogans. <em>Do you know where your children are</em> read one, mimickg sre mongerg that preoccupied prev generatns and hasn’t entirely been shaken off by our own. The cloth are arrtg bee they’re a product of our tim, of a signer plugged to groundswell movements culture, rejectg the hierarchy and elism and creatg somethg that ronat. It also satisfi fashn crics who want to be exced, annoyed, and generally provoked by cloth that challenge. Which means that you don’t md beg crammed to a sweaty bathhoe and barely glimpsg fabric and flh the gloom. It’s an experience—nvenient, but tertg.</p><div class="AdWrapper-dQtivb fZrssQ ad ad---ntent"><div class="adslot adslot---ntent" data-no-id="ijnxor"></div></div><p>At least feels like Oliver is tryg to say somethg new, to fd his own voice rather than jo the nversatn about the tired language of luxury. That don’t even feel relevant when you’re talkg about the cloth. They’re somethg else. And a world where otherns is rapidly -opted by a vorac fashn system and forced to s pigeonhol, Hood By Air’s steadfast refal to kowtow to the system is worthy of plds.</p></div></div></div><div class="GridItem-buujkM fVLMby grid--em grid-layoutasi"><div class="StickyBoxWrapper-jfYB jxBcTH sticky-box"><div class="StickyBoxPrimary-dzWDWL cdhYoN sticky-boxprimary"><div class="AdWrapper-dQtivb fZrssQ ad ad--rail"><div class="adslot adslot--rail" data-no-id="4u01r"></div></div><div class="ConsumerMarketgUnThemedWrapper-iUTMTf jssHut nsumer-marketg-un nsumer-marketg-un--display-rail" role="prentatn" aria-hidn="te"><div class="nsumer-marketg-unslot nsumer-marketg-unslot--display-rail"></div><div class="journey-un"></div></div></div><div class="StickyBoxPlaceholr-grPmrg dxAvXx"></div></div></div></div></div><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK kHBDeH grid grid-margs grid-ems-2 PaywallInleBarrierWhWrapperGrid-fyrGfS kLQIUk grid-layout--adrail narrow wi-adrail"><div class="GridItem-buujkM stRKV 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data-ttid="RunwayShowGallery" class="RunwayShowPageGallery-lbMchb gnSeRq"><h2 class="RunwayShowPageGalleryTle-gZFtjP dBFWNS">Collectn</h2><div data-ttid="ContentWhCTA" class="ContentWhCTAWrapper-kmjApX kSslvG"><div class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd iUEiRd"><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK cuUrTA grid grid-even grid-ems-3 GalleryThumbnailGridThree-cjapkP TYMay"><div class="GridItem-buujkM dEqBaI grid--em"><a href="/fashn-shows/sprg-2017-menswear/hood-by-air/slishow/llectn#1" class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BaseLk-eNWuiM GalleryThumbnailWrapper-iGFOMm iUEiRd hHRAkO cDOurZ bgPFdG"><figure class="GalleryThumbnailFigure-duXHLP dWhevp"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW jvZaPI rponsive-asset GalleryThumbnailRponsiveAsset-kkOmnx dLbExz"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa GalleryThumbnailRponsiveAsset-kkOmnx dLbExz rponsive-image"><img alt="Image may nta Clothg Apparel Sleeve Human Person Floor Fashn Robe and Gown" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-imageimage" src=" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w, 960w, 1280w, 1600w, 1920w, 2240w" siz="100vw"/></picture></span><figptn class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ GalleryThumbnailCaptn-bETYRD iUEiRd iTPcPG gDlyXv">Look 1</figptn></figure></a></div><div class="GridItem-buujkM dEqBaI grid--em"><a href="/fashn-shows/sprg-2017-menswear/hood-by-air/slishow/llectn#2" class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BaseLk-eNWuiM GalleryThumbnailWrapper-iGFOMm iUEiRd hHRAkO cDOurZ bgPFdG"><figure class="GalleryThumbnailFigure-duXHLP dWhevp"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW jvZaPI rponsive-asset GalleryThumbnailRponsiveAsset-kkOmnx dLbExz"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa GalleryThumbnailRponsiveAsset-kkOmnx dLbExz rponsive-image"><img alt="Image may nta Human Person Clothg Apparel Pants and Home Der" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-imageimage" src=" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w, 960w, 1280w, 1600w, 1920w, 2240w" siz="100vw"/></picture></span><figptn class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ GalleryThumbnailCaptn-bETYRD iUEiRd iTPcPG gDlyXv">Look 2</figptn></figure></a></div><div class="GridItem-buujkM dEqBaI grid--em"><a href="/fashn-shows/sprg-2017-menswear/hood-by-air/slishow/llectn#3" class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BaseLk-eNWuiM GalleryThumbnailWrapper-iGFOMm iUEiRd hHRAkO cDOurZ bgPFdG"><figure class="GalleryThumbnailFigure-duXHLP dWhevp"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW jvZaPI rponsive-asset GalleryThumbnailRponsiveAsset-kkOmnx dLbExz"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa GalleryThumbnailRponsiveAsset-kkOmnx dLbExz rponsive-image"><img alt="Image may nta Clothg Apparel Human Person Pants Home Der Floorg Wood and Hardwood" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-imageimage" src=" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w, 960w, 1280w, 1600w, 1920w, 2240w" siz="100vw"/></picture></span><figptn class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ GalleryThumbnailCaptn-bETYRD iUEiRd iTPcPG gDlyXv">Look 3</figptn></figure></a></div><div class="GridItem-buujkM dEqBaI grid--em"><a href="/fashn-shows/sprg-2017-menswear/hood-by-air/slishow/llectn#4" class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BaseLk-eNWuiM GalleryThumbnailWrapper-iGFOMm iUEiRd hHRAkO cDOurZ bgPFdG"><figure class="GalleryThumbnailFigure-duXHLP dWhevp"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW jvZaPI rponsive-asset GalleryThumbnailRponsiveAsset-kkOmnx dLbExz"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa GalleryThumbnailRponsiveAsset-kkOmnx dLbExz rponsive-image"><img alt="Image may nta Clothg Apparel Pants Human Person Khaki and Home Der" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-imageimage" src=" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w, 960w, 1280w, 1600w, 1920w, 2240w" siz="100vw"/></picture></span><figptn class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ GalleryThumbnailCaptn-bETYRD iUEiRd iTPcPG gDlyXv">Look 4</figptn></figure></a></div><div class="GridItem-buujkM dEqBaI grid--em"><a href="/fashn-shows/sprg-2017-menswear/hood-by-air/slishow/llectn#5" class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BaseLk-eNWuiM GalleryThumbnailWrapper-iGFOMm iUEiRd hHRAkO cDOurZ bgPFdG"><figure class="GalleryThumbnailFigure-duXHLP dWhevp"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW jvZaPI rponsive-asset GalleryThumbnailRponsiveAsset-kkOmnx dLbExz"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa GalleryThumbnailRponsiveAsset-kkOmnx dLbExz rponsive-image"><img alt="Image may nta Human Person Plot Shoulr Clothg Apparel and Back" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-imageimage" src=" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w, 960w, 1280w, 1600w, 1920w, 2240w" siz="100vw"/></picture></span><figptn class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ GalleryThumbnailCaptn-bETYRD iUEiRd iTPcPG gDlyXv">Look 5</figptn></figure></a></div><div class="GridItem-buujkM dEqBaI grid--em"><a href="/fashn-shows/sprg-2017-menswear/hood-by-air/slishow/llectn#6" class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BaseLk-eNWuiM GalleryThumbnailWrapper-iGFOMm iUEiRd hHRAkO cDOurZ bgPFdG"><figure class="GalleryThumbnailFigure-duXHLP dWhevp"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW jvZaPI rponsive-asset GalleryThumbnailRponsiveAsset-kkOmnx dLbExz"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa GalleryThumbnailRponsiveAsset-kkOmnx dLbExz rponsive-image"><img alt="This image may nta Clothg Apparel Sleeve Human Person Overat Coat and Long Sleeve" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-imageimage" src=" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w, 960w, 1280w, 1600w, 1920w, 2240w" siz="100vw"/></picture></span><figptn class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ GalleryThumbnailCaptn-bETYRD iUEiRd iTPcPG gDlyXv">Look 6</figptn></figure></a></div><div class="GridItem-buujkM dEqBaI grid--em"><a href="/fashn-shows/sprg-2017-menswear/hood-by-air/slishow/llectn#7" class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BaseLk-eNWuiM GalleryThumbnailWrapper-iGFOMm iUEiRd hHRAkO cDOurZ bgPFdG"><figure class="GalleryThumbnailFigure-duXHLP dWhevp"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW jvZaPI rponsive-asset GalleryThumbnailRponsiveAsset-kkOmnx dLbExz"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa GalleryThumbnailRponsiveAsset-kkOmnx dLbExz rponsive-image"><img alt="This image may nta Clothg Apparel Human Person Pants Footwear Shoe Sleeve Door and Long Sleeve" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-imageimage" src=" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w, 960w, 1280w, 1600w, 1920w, 2240w" siz="100vw"/></picture></span><figptn class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ GalleryThumbnailCaptn-bETYRD iUEiRd iTPcPG gDlyXv">Look 7</figptn></figure></a></div><div class="GridItem-buujkM dEqBaI grid--em"><a href="/fashn-shows/sprg-2017-menswear/hood-by-air/slishow/llectn#8" class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BaseLk-eNWuiM GalleryThumbnailWrapper-iGFOMm iUEiRd hHRAkO cDOurZ bgPFdG"><figure class="GalleryThumbnailFigure-duXHLP dWhevp"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW jvZaPI rponsive-asset GalleryThumbnailRponsiveAsset-kkOmnx dLbExz"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa GalleryThumbnailRponsiveAsset-kkOmnx dLbExz rponsive-image"><img alt="Image may nta Clothg Apparel Coat Human Person and Sleeve" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-imageimage" src=" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w, 960w, 1280w, 1600w, 1920w, 2240w" siz="100vw"/></picture></span><figptn class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ GalleryThumbnailCaptn-bETYRD iUEiRd iTPcPG gDlyXv">Look 8</figptn></figure></a></div><div class="GridItem-buujkM dEqBaI grid--em"><a href="/fashn-shows/sprg-2017-menswear/hood-by-air/slishow/llectn#9" class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BaseLk-eNWuiM GalleryThumbnailWrapper-iGFOMm iUEiRd hHRAkO cDOurZ bgPFdG"><figure class="GalleryThumbnailFigure-duXHLP dWhevp"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW jvZaPI rponsive-asset GalleryThumbnailRponsiveAsset-kkOmnx dLbExz"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa GalleryThumbnailRponsiveAsset-kkOmnx dLbExz rponsive-image"><img alt="This image may nta Clothg Apparel Coat Human and Person" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-imageimage" src=" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w, 960w, 1280w, 1600w, 1920w, 2240w" siz="100vw"/></picture></span><figptn class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ GalleryThumbnailCaptn-bETYRD iUEiRd iTPcPG gDlyXv">Look 9</figptn></figure></a></div></div></div><div class="ContentWhCTAButtonWrapper-cvZvHh eLbRZc"><button class="BaseButton-bLlsy ButtonWrapper-xCepQ cRxydS bxaicT button button--primary-pair GalleryThumbnailExpandButton-jWYbqx oTJkH" data-event-click="{"element":"Button"}" data-ttid="Button" type="button"><span class="ButtonLabel-cjAuJN hzwRuG buttonlabel">Load More</span></button></div></div></sectn></div></div><div class="GridItem-buujkM fVLMby grid--em grid-layoutasi"><asi class="PersistentAsiWrapper-VGrR daRVRt persistent-asi" style="posn:absolute;top:to;height:to" data-ttid="PersistentAsiWrapper"><div class="StickyBoxWrapper-jfYB jxBcTH sticky-box 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href="/fashn-shows/sprg-2017-menswear/alexanr-wang" data-ttid="SummaryItemSimple" class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BaseLk-eNWuiM SummaryItemSimpleAnchor-RirP iUEiRd hHRAkO cDOurZ dzXmdH"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW jvZaPI rponsive-asset SummaryItemRponsiveAsset-ffwDWv jzwfhu"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa SummaryItemRponsiveAsset-ffwDWv jzwfhu rponsive-image"><img alt="Image may nta Clothg Apparel Human Person Shorts and Boy" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-imageimage" src=" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w, 960w, 1280w" siz="100vw"/></picture></span><h3 class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ SummaryItemSimpleHed-hKrnPP iUEiRd iTPcPG iuokhk">Alexanr Wang</h3><p class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ SummaryItemCtomMsage-igMVjU iUEiRd iTPcPG byseQj"> Sprg 2017 Menswear </p></a></div><div class="GridItem-buujkM dEqBaI grid--em"><a href="/fashn-shows/sprg-2017-menswear/openg-ceremony" data-ttid="SummaryItemSimple" 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hood by air gay

12 Dec 2024

It isn’t jt gay, or straight, or trans, or skate, or hip-hop, or art, or fashn. It’s about joyoly losg one’s md.

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class="nsumer-marketg-un__slot nsumer-marketg-un__slot--display-hero"></div><div class="journey-un"></div></div></div><div class="SpaceHolr-oayp fXtswJ ad-height-hold"></div><ma id="ma-ntent" tabx="-1" class="BasePageMaContent-kFvAuh ewPCZH page__ma-ntent"><article class="article ma-ntent" lang="en-US"><div class="ArticlePageLeBackground-EufvU tFsh"><hear class="ContentHearWrapper-clujbs cHjRrO ntent-hear article__ntent-hear"><div data-ttid="ContentHearContaer" class="ContentHearContaer-cGKRbE knDxNq"><div class="ContentHearHedAccredatnWrapper-GFiQf cDNVlV"><div data-ttid="ContentHearTleBlockWrapper" class="ContentHearTleBlockWrapper-cjmSKp kjLxCB"><div data-ttid="ContentHearRubric" class="ContentHearRubricBlock-LmpbT hsydfY"><div data-ttid="ContentHearRubricDateBlock" class="ContentHearRubricDateBlock-kAQcZP fTFWxD"><div class="RubricWrapper-dKmCNX eNRqSb bric ContentHearRubricContaer-eTudtt iRsSlw"><a class="RubricLk-gRWSOU fTtYjx bric__lk" href="/fashn-shows"><span class="RubricName-fVtemz cLxcNi">Runway</span></a></div></div></div><h1 data-ttid="ContentHearHed" class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ ContentHearHed-NCyCC iUEiRd bwDymH isouMH">Hood By Air and Pieter Hugo Contue to Champn Jamai's Homosexual Communy Wh a New Collab</h1></div><div class="ContentHearAccredatn-lfctVB eDhhwT ntent-hear__accredatn" data-ttid="ContentHearAccredatn"><div class="ContentHearByle-kmPyCa emiglw"><div class="ContentHearByleContent-dpPmNn DRFq"><div data-ttid="BylWrapper" class="BylWrapper-KIudk irTIfE byl ContentHearByl-cZqgyJ bHLeKI"><p class="ByleWrapper-jWHrLH uMYIE byle byl__byle" data-ttid="ByleWrapper" emProp="thor" emType="><span emProp="name" class="ByleNamWrapper-jbHncj fuDQVo"><span data-ttid="ByleName" class="ByleName-kwmrLn cYaBaU byle__name"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BylePreamble-iJolpQ iUEiRd kxuydN gnILss byle__preamble">By </span><a class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BaseLk-eNWuiM ByleLk-gEnFiw iUEiRd hHRAkO 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class="GalleryEmbedControlsStyl-dHFqsy bfpTGb"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ GalleryEmbedControlsCounter-cTFhZe iUEiRd kFWniT iyyCZU"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ GalleryEmbedControlsCounterInx-KxYYM iUEiRd kFWniT">1 </span><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ GalleryEmbedControlsCounterCount-hjjCXF iUEiRd fhVV">/ 7</span></span><div role="prentatn" class="GalleryEmbedControlsController-bemMMG kAIVAh"><button aria-label="gallery-back" class="BaseButton-bLlsy ButtonWrapper-xCepQ cRxydS btWLCr button button--utily GalleryEmbedControlsButton-dA-dlPo ceEfVO" data-event-click="{"element":"Button"}" data-ttid="Button" disabled="" type="button"><span class="ButtonLabel-cjAuJN bBWXSg button__label"></span><div class="ButtonInWrapper-gFdzAL bPDyTT button__in-ntaer"><svg class="ButtonIn-YqaGo iwlhuX button-in in in-chevron" focable="false" viewBox="0 0 32 32" width="32" height="32" xmlns="><tle>Chevron</tle><path d="M19.071 16L12 8.929l1.414-1.414L21.9 16l-8.485 8.485L12 23.071z" fill-le="nonzero"></path></svg></div></button><button aria-label="gallery-forward" class="BaseButton-bLlsy ButtonWrapper-xCepQ cRxydS btWLCr button button--utily GalleryEmbedControlsButton-dA-dlPo jUZMsC" data-event-click="{"element":"Button"}" data-ttid="Button" type="button"><span class="ButtonLabel-cjAuJN bBWXSg button__label"></span><div class="ButtonInWrapper-gFdzAL bPDyTT button__in-ntaer"><svg class="ButtonIn-YqaGo iwlhuX button-in in in-chevron" focable="false" viewBox="0 0 32 32" width="32" height="32" xmlns="><tle>Chevron</tle><path d="M19.071 16L12 8.929l1.414-1.414L21.9 16l-8.485 8.485L12 23.071z" fill-le="nonzero"></path></svg></div></button></div></div><figptn class="GalleryEmbedCaptnWrapper-eUYjyD cYOJII"><div class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ GalleryEmbedCred-fLWDcf bVluTY QSmdR cLAnWT">Photo: Courty of Hood By Air</div></figptn><hr class="GalleryEmbedHr-dXMdzM fCNcvb gallery-embed__hr"/></div><p>Back the early months of 2016, Hood By Air imprar Shayne Oliver and photographer Pieter Hugo traveled to Jamai to photograph the island’s transgenr muny, members of whom are known lolly as <a href=">Gully Queens</a>, and male porn stars. The stark imag of the men and women HBA clothg were published a book, <a data-offer-url=" class="external-lk" data-event-click="{"element":"ExternalLk","outgogURL":"" href=" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank"><em>PH & HBA</em></a>, and ma the rounds on social media for their sharp portrayal of the margalized homosexual muny Jamai, a untry where beg gay is illegal.</p><div><div class="ConsumerMarketgUnThemedWrapper-iUTMTf jssHut nsumer-marketg-un nsumer-marketg-un--article-mid-ntent" role="prentatn" aria-hidn="te"><div class="nsumer-marketg-un__slot nsumer-marketg-un__slot--article-mid-ntent nsumer-marketg-un__slot---ntent"></div><div class="journey-un"></div></div></div><p>For Oliver, the project had a ep personal meang. “I had been hearg about [the Gully Queens] through Akeem Smh, who's of Jamain scent. The story felt very siar to that of the kids who were livg on Christopher Street the mid-late ’00s, some of whom were close iends of me. The story and stggl were very faiar, and I wanted to expose the harmon bety of the kids opposed to the extreme view that is projected onto them regularly,” Oliver wrote over email.</p><div class="AdWrapper-dQtivb fZrssQ ad ad---ntent"><div class="ad__slot ad__slot---ntent" data-no-id="xipmk"></div></div><p>At Art Basel Miami Beach tomorrow, HBA and Hugo’s photographic llab will get a new life. Oliver has signed seven unique raglan shirts featurg Hugo’s photographs, each wh floor-grazg sleev that read <em>Galvanize Jamai</em> and a siarly lanky body. “The silhouette was meant to reflect and work like a nvas, the graphic sleev were meant to create the ame around ,” the signer explaed. Together, the set of seven tops will retail for $1,500; separately, they are priced at $300 apiece.</p><div class="Contaer-bkChBi byNLHx"></div><p>The cisn to prt the photographs on clothg wasn’t part of Oliver and Hugo’s ial plan, but both are pleased wh the rults. “Shayne jt saw the potential of makg the two mediums live together,” said Hugo. “And looks fabulo.”</p></div></div></div><div class="GridItem-buujkM fVLMby grid--em grid-layout__asi"><div class="StickyBoxWrapper-jfYB kNleGZ sticky-box"><div class="StickyBoxPrimary-dzWDWL cdhYoN sticky-box__primary"><div class="Contaer-bkChBi byNLHx"></div><div class="AdWrapper-dQtivb fZrssQ ad ad--rail"><div class="ad__slot ad__slot--rail" data-no-id="ds7mm"></div></div><div class="ConsumerMarketgUnThemedWrapper-iUTMTf jssHut nsumer-marketg-un nsumer-marketg-un--display-rail" role="prentatn" aria-hidn="te"><div class="nsumer-marketg-un__slot nsumer-marketg-un__slot--display-rail"></div><div class="journey-un"></div></div></div><div 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cYaBaU byle__name"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BylePreamble-iJolpQ iUEiRd kxuydN gnILss byle__preamble">By </span>Hannah Jackson</span></span></p></div></div></a></li><li class="RecircListTextOverlayItem-dLTGJZ cMRTNH"><a class="OverlaySummaryItemWrapper-jydJgB ljApWB summary-em-trackg__image-lk" data-ponent-type="recirc-river" data-recirc-id="em-image-2" data-recirc-pattern="summary-em" href="><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW kGxnNB rponsive-asset OverlaySummaryItemRponsiveAsset-gAMhYK cOqLsu"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa OverlaySummaryItemRponsiveAsset-gAMhYK cOqLsu rponsive-image"><div data-tt="aspect-rat-ntaer" class="AspectRatContaer-bJHpJz iqnk"><div class="aspect-rat--overlay-ntaer"><noscript><source media="(max-width: 767px)" srcSet="" siz="100vw"/><source media="(m-width: 768px)" srcSet="" siz="100vw"/><img alt="How to Protect Yourself From the Worst Effects of Poor Air Qualy" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src="></noscript></div></div></picture></span><div class="OverlaySummaryItemContent-ddGOWz fHZSgO"><div class="RubricWrapper-dKmCNX dUsdoD bric bric--wh-bg BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ OverlaySummaryItemRubric-bFqsqT iUEiRd cxwGKM cvqxGA"><span class="RubricName-fVtemz cLxcNi">Culture</span></div><div data-ttid="ClampWrapper" class="ClampWrapper-kZxfkB hTTNGO clamp"><div class="ClampContent-hilPkr jVhSBH"><div class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ OverlaySummaryItemHed-cljMtD iUEiRd dMyiUD cRpZRn">How to Protect Yourself From the Worst Effects of Poor Air Qualy</div></div></div><div data-ttid="BylWrapper" class="BylWrapper-KIudk irTIfE byl OverlaySummaryItemByl-bogcUE fjwtNK"><p class="ByleWrapper-jWHrLH epKWKp byle byl__byle" data-ttid="ByleWrapper" emProp="thor" emType="><span emProp="name" class="ByleNamWrapper-jbHncj fuDQVo"><span data-ttid="ByleName" class="ByleName-kwmrLn cYaBaU byle__name"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BylePreamble-iJolpQ iUEiRd kxuydN gnILss byle__preamble">By </span>Emma Specter</span></span></p></div></div></a></li><div class="AdWrapper-dQtivb fZrssQ ad ad--read-more"><div class="ad__slot ad__slot--read-more" data-no-id="1w7qfe"></div></div><li class="RecircListTextOverlayItem-dLTGJZ cMRTNH"><a class="OverlaySummaryItemWrapper-jydJgB ljApWB summary-em-trackg__image-lk" data-ponent-type="recirc-river" data-recirc-id="em-image-3" data-recirc-pattern="summary-em" href="><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW kGxnNB rponsive-asset OverlaySummaryItemRponsiveAsset-gAMhYK cOqLsu"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa OverlaySummaryItemRponsiveAsset-gAMhYK cOqLsu rponsive-image"><div data-tt="aspect-rat-ntaer" class="AspectRatContaer-bJHpJz iqnk"><div class="aspect-rat--overlay-ntaer"><noscript><source media="(max-width: 767px)" srcSet="" siz="100vw"/><source media="(m-width: 768px)" srcSet="" siz="100vw"/><img alt="Margot Robbie’s Latt Vtage Look Was Origally Worn By Kate Moss the 1990s" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src="></noscript></div></div></picture></span><div class="OverlaySummaryItemContent-ddGOWz fHZSgO"><div class="RubricWrapper-dKmCNX dUsdoD bric bric--wh-bg BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ OverlaySummaryItemRubric-bFqsqT iUEiRd cxwGKM cvqxGA"><span class="RubricName-fVtemz cLxcNi">Celebry Style</span></div><div data-ttid="ClampWrapper" class="ClampWrapper-kZxfkB hTTNGO clamp"><div class="ClampContent-hilPkr jVhSBH"><div class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ OverlaySummaryItemHed-cljMtD iUEiRd dMyiUD cRpZRn">Margot Robbie’s Latt Vtage Look Was Origally Worn By Kate Moss the 1990s</div></div></div><div data-ttid="BylWrapper" class="BylWrapper-KIudk irTIfE byl OverlaySummaryItemByl-bogcUE fjwtNK"><p class="ByleWrapper-jWHrLH epKWKp byle byl__byle" data-ttid="ByleWrapper" emProp="thor" emType="><span emProp="name" class="ByleNamWrapper-jbHncj fuDQVo"><span data-ttid="ByleName" class="ByleName-kwmrLn cYaBaU byle__name"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BylePreamble-iJolpQ iUEiRd kxuydN gnILss byle__preamble">By </span>Ey Chan</span></span></p></div></div></a></li><li class="RecircListTextOverlayItem-dLTGJZ cMRTNH"><a class="OverlaySummaryItemWrapper-jydJgB ljApWB summary-em-trackg__image-lk" data-ponent-type="recirc-river" data-recirc-id="em-image-4" data-recirc-pattern="summary-em" href="><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW kGxnNB rponsive-asset OverlaySummaryItemRponsiveAsset-gAMhYK cOqLsu"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa OverlaySummaryItemRponsiveAsset-gAMhYK cOqLsu rponsive-image"><div data-tt="aspect-rat-ntaer" class="AspectRatContaer-bJHpJz iqnk"><div class="aspect-rat--overlay-ntaer"><noscript><source media="(max-width: 767px)" srcSet="" siz="100vw"/><source media="(m-width: 768px)" srcSet="" siz="100vw"/><img alt="This Mimalist Day Bag by The Row Has a Long List of Celebry Admirers" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src="></noscript></div></div></picture></span><div class="OverlaySummaryItemContent-ddGOWz fHZSgO"><div class="RubricWrapper-dKmCNX dUsdoD bric bric--wh-bg BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ OverlaySummaryItemRubric-bFqsqT iUEiRd cxwGKM cvqxGA"><span class="RubricName-fVtemz cLxcNi">Shoppg</span></div><div data-ttid="ClampWrapper" class="ClampWrapper-kZxfkB hTTNGO clamp"><div class="ClampContent-hilPkr jVhSBH"><div class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ OverlaySummaryItemHed-cljMtD iUEiRd dMyiUD cRpZRn">This Mimalist Day Bag by The Row Has a Long List of Celebry Admirers </div></div></div><div data-ttid="BylWrapper" class="BylWrapper-KIudk irTIfE byl OverlaySummaryItemByl-bogcUE fjwtNK"><p class="ByleWrapper-jWHrLH epKWKp byle byl__byle" data-ttid="ByleWrapper" emProp="thor" emType="><span emProp="name" class="ByleNamWrapper-jbHncj fuDQVo"><span data-ttid="ByleName" class="ByleName-kwmrLn cYaBaU byle__name"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BylePreamble-iJolpQ iUEiRd kxuydN gnILss byle__preamble">By </span>Alice Newbold</span></span></p></div></div></a></li><li class="RecircListTextOverlayItem-dLTGJZ cMRTNH"><a class="OverlaySummaryItemWrapper-jydJgB ljApWB summary-em-trackg__image-lk" data-ponent-type="recirc-river" data-recirc-id="em-image-5" data-recirc-pattern="summary-em" href="><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW kGxnNB rponsive-asset OverlaySummaryItemRponsiveAsset-gAMhYK cOqLsu"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa OverlaySummaryItemRponsiveAsset-gAMhYK cOqLsu rponsive-image"><div data-tt="aspect-rat-ntaer" class="AspectRatContaer-bJHpJz iqnk"><div class="aspect-rat--overlay-ntaer"><noscript><source media="(max-width: 767px)" srcSet="" siz="100vw"/><source media="(m-width: 768px)" srcSet="" siz="100vw"/><img alt="The One Surprisg Sk Essential Margot Robbie and Her Fellow Barbi Swore by Durg Filmg" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src="></noscript></div></div></picture></span><div class="OverlaySummaryItemContent-ddGOWz fHZSgO"><div class="RubricWrapper-dKmCNX dUsdoD bric bric--wh-bg BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ OverlaySummaryItemRubric-bFqsqT iUEiRd cxwGKM cvqxGA"><span class="RubricName-fVtemz cLxcNi">Celebry Bety</span></div><div data-ttid="ClampWrapper" class="ClampWrapper-kZxfkB hTTNGO clamp"><div class="ClampContent-hilPkr jVhSBH"><div class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ OverlaySummaryItemHed-cljMtD iUEiRd dMyiUD cRpZRn">The One Surprisg Sk Essential Margot Robbie and Her Fellow Barbi Swore by Durg Filmg</div></div></div><div data-ttid="BylWrapper" class="BylWrapper-KIudk irTIfE byl OverlaySummaryItemByl-bogcUE fjwtNK"><p class="ByleWrapper-jWHrLH epKWKp byle byl__byle" data-ttid="ByleWrapper" emProp="thor" emType="><span emProp="name" class="ByleNamWrapper-jbHncj fuDQVo"><span data-ttid="ByleName" class="ByleName-kwmrLn cYaBaU byle__name"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BylePreamble-iJolpQ iUEiRd kxuydN gnILss byle__preamble">By </span>Hannah Coat</span></span></p></div></div></a></li><li class="RecircListTextOverlayItem-dLTGJZ cMRTNH"><a class="OverlaySummaryItemWrapper-jydJgB ljApWB summary-em-trackg__image-lk" data-ponent-type="recirc-river" data-recirc-id="em-image-6" data-recirc-pattern="summary-em" href="><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW kGxnNB rponsive-asset OverlaySummaryItemRponsiveAsset-gAMhYK cOqLsu"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa OverlaySummaryItemRponsiveAsset-gAMhYK cOqLsu rponsive-image"><div data-tt="aspect-rat-ntaer" class="AspectRatContaer-bJHpJz iqnk"><div class="aspect-rat--overlay-ntaer"><noscript><source media="(max-width: 767px)" srcSet="" siz="100vw"/><source media="(m-width: 768px)" srcSet="" siz="100vw"/><img alt="The Mattifyg Makp Tool That I Swear By to Absorb Excs Oil All Summer Long" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src="></noscript></div></div></picture></span><div class="OverlaySummaryItemContent-ddGOWz fHZSgO"><div class="RubricWrapper-dKmCNX dUsdoD bric bric--wh-bg BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ OverlaySummaryItemRubric-bFqsqT iUEiRd cxwGKM cvqxGA"><span class="RubricName-fVtemz cLxcNi">Shoppg</span></div><div data-ttid="ClampWrapper" class="ClampWrapper-kZxfkB hTTNGO clamp"><div class="ClampContent-hilPkr jVhSBH"><div class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ OverlaySummaryItemHed-cljMtD iUEiRd dMyiUD cRpZRn">The Mattifyg Makp Tool That I Swear By to Absorb Excs Oil All Summer Long</div></div></div><div data-ttid="BylWrapper" class="BylWrapper-KIudk irTIfE byl OverlaySummaryItemByl-bogcUE fjwtNK"><p class="ByleWrapper-jWHrLH epKWKp byle byl__byle" data-ttid="ByleWrapper" emProp="thor" emType="><span emProp="name" class="ByleNamWrapper-jbHncj fuDQVo"><span data-ttid="ByleName" class="ByleName-kwmrLn cYaBaU byle__name"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BylePreamble-iJolpQ iUEiRd kxuydN gnILss byle__preamble">By </span>Kiana 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