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23.9508V2.95081H14V3.93211H6V22.1845L12.5 18.5536L19 22.1845V8.83866H20V23.9508Z"></path><path class="in-bookmark-fill" d="M23 3H20V0H19V3H16V4H19V7H20V4H23V3Z"></path></svg></span><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ ActnBarButtonText-bYXYuh iUEiRd bkefvo gkccfO">Save this story</span></button></div></div></div><div class="LightboxWrapper-dxsWBV hhylRt"><div class="ArticlePageChunksContent-etcMtP bwyLBj"><div data-ttid="ArticlePageChunks" class="ArticlePageChunks-fLyCVG gBDqlf"><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK kHBDeH grid grid-margs grid-ems-2 ArticlePageChunksGrid-hfxa bjczjj grid-layout--adrail narrow wi-adrail"><div class="GridItem-buujkM stRKV grid--em grid-layout__ntent"><div class="BodyWrapper-kufPGa EOneK body body__ntaer article__body" data-journey-hook="client-ntent" data-ttid="BodyWrapper"><div class="body__ner-ntaer"><div class="GenericCalloutWrapper-tojWn iHBnEl llout--has-top-borr set-embedd-le" data-ttid="GenericCallout"><figure class="AssetEmbedWrapper-eVDQiB byBkf asset-embed"><div class="AssetEmbedAssetContaer-eJxoAx dBHGoQ asset-embed__asset-ntaer"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW kGxnNB rponsive-asset AssetEmbedRponsiveAsset-cXBNxi eCxVQK asset-embed__rponsive-asset"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO KhjZz AssetEmbedRponsiveAsset-cXBNxi eCxVQK asset-embed__rponsive-asset rponsive-image rponsive-image--expandable"><noscript><img alt="H.B.A. turns hoodi and multipocketed jackets to avantgar objects." class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src=" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w, 960w, 1280w, 1600w, 1920w, 2240w" siz="100vw"/></noscript></picture></span></div><div class="CaptnWrapper-jSZdqE iTuhkZ ptn AssetEmbedCaptn-fNQBPI fmQnYP asset-embed__ptn"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ CaptnText-bHjzlu iUEiRd hWyo iXWezO ptn__text">H.B.A. turns hoodi and multipocketed jackets to avant-gar objects.</span><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ CaptnCred-ejegDm iUEiRd iicloT jbIJNS ptn__cred">Photograph by Jeremy Liebman for The New Yorker</span></div></figure></div><p class="has-dropp has-dropp__lead-standard-headg">One afternoon 1999, when the signer Shayne Oliver was the sixth gra, he me across a magaze ad for Dirty Denim, a le of “pre-soiled” jeans by Diel. The ad featured a llage of fx paparazzi photographs documentg the meltdown of a fictnal rock star. Oliver was stck by the mpaign’s tagle: “The Luxury of Dirt.” “That blew my md,” he told me recently. “Spendg money on somethg that looks <em>dirty</em>? I was, like, ‘This is geni.’ ” He rmed his mother, a schoolteacher om Tridad named Anne-Marie, that he need a pair immediately.</p><p class="paywall">Oliver’s father had abandoned Anne-Marie before Shayne was born, and she had stggled to raise him on her own. They lived a ty apartment on Halsey Street, Bedford-Stuyvant. Oliver, who attend some rough schools—he wnsed knife fights the halls—was highly telligent, and Anne-Marie was termed to nurture his gifts. She stood up to people on the street who heckled him bee he was effemate, and fought wh school officials who wrote him off as a rowdy black kid. She didn’t have the money for the jeans, which st three hundred and seventy-five dollars, but she rpected Shayne’s sense of urgency. “How are we gog to afford Diel cloth?” she asked herself. She soon began workg evengs at the Diel store at the rner of Sixtieth and Lexgton. She got an employee disunt, and her kid got his jeans.</p><p class="paywall">Oliver began acpanyg Anne-Marie on her shifts at Diel, foldg shirts, examg seams, and offerg ctomers unsoliced style advice. Although his suggtns were impecble, after a few weeks the management told him to stay home, notg that was illegal for twelve-year-olds to work retail. Undnted, Oliver walked a few blocks to a Roberto Cavalli store. Employe there were so charmed that they offered him an unpaid ternship. He didn’t take , but he ntued to vis the store—and pter the staff. “I would jt be the shop, hangg out all the time and talkg sh,” he rells. “It was fun.”</p><p class="paywall">Oliver was a recent arrival New York. He was born 1987 Mnota, where Anne-Marie had immigrated to pursue a teachg gree, and he had spent his childhood shuttlg among female relativ St. Pl, St. Croix, and Tridad, before settlg wh his mother Brooklyn, 1998. In St. Croix, at the age of five, he had begun makg his own fashns out of scraps of fabric svenged om his grandmother, a drsmaker. After movg to the Uned Stat, he started cuttg up ems Anne-Marie’s wardrobe. In an effort to disurage this practice, she took him on regular trips to Jo-Ann Fabrics. He kept lootg her closet.</p><p class="paywall">When Anne-Marie ro the subway wh Oliver, she noticed him starg at men who were wearg streetwear brands like Mec and FUBU. “Why are you lookg at all of the guys?” Anne-Marie asked him. “You’re all up their Kool-Aid!” Oliver protted that he was spectg them for their cloth, which was only half a lie. He began cuttg up his jeans and rippg out the crotch, which ma him a target at the Pentestal church that he and his mother attend. “I was beg exprsive!” he rells, addg that other parishners exprsed themselv by speakg tongu. At thirteen, he qu the church.</p><div><div class="ConsumerMarketgUnThemedWrapper-iUTMTf jssHut nsumer-marketg-un nsumer-marketg-un--article-mid-ntent" role="prentatn" aria-hidn="te"><div class="nsumer-marketg-un__slot nsumer-marketg-un__slot--article-mid-ntent nsumer-marketg-un__slot---ntent"></div><div class="journey-un"></div></div></div><p class="paywall">That year, Anne-Marie sent Oliver to a public school Long Island Cy which focs on the arts. For weeks, he me to class wearg a head srf, and was often mistaken for a Mlim girl. (“I should’ve played that up a ltle b,” Oliver told me. “Mlim girls get a <em>lot</em> of attentn.”) Shortly after he enrolled, Anne-Marie rented for him a viossette of “Paris Is Burng,” the 1990 documentary about vogug petns New York. A year later, he beme a member of the Hoe of Nja, one of the groups featured the film. “The Nja people were all offbeat and not glamour kids,” he rells. They enuraged him to explore var looks, and petns, he said, he “swayed between ‘vogue femme’ and ‘nway.’ ”</p><div data-attr-viewport-monor="le-recirc" class="le-recirc-wrapper le-recirc-observer-target-1 viewport-monor-anchor"></div><p class="paywall">As a teen-ager, Oliver began applyg his genuy to his hair: “There was one pot where I was mixg textur— was, like, a mullet of dreads and then permed on the sis. I’m sorry, that hairstyle was so nasty! It was ridiculo. It was <em>so good.</em>” He went out most nights, mutg between the largely whe electroclash scene centered on Club Luxx, Williamsburg, and the mostly black and Lato scene on Christopher Street, where he liked to “smoke, go to the pier, and then vogue.”</p><p class="paywall">Before enterg the tenth gra, he transferred to Harvey Milk, the untry’s first high school for L.G.B.T. youths. Many of the stunts there wore three outfs a day: one for their neighborhood, one for school, and one for gog out. It uld be dangero to wear the wrong thg the wrong place, so kids kept outré cloth their backpacks and changed on the subway platform. Oliver, though, prid himself on assemblg outfs that worked all three environments: butch enough for Bed-Stuy, smart enough for school, glam enough for the club. He vised subtle, lorls ensembl, the drape and shape of which sent d msag to the ted eye. “If you have on all-black, you n go unnoticed on the block,” Oliver explaed. “Then you go to the cy, and someone who’s thkg about clothg a different way notic all the cuts and layerg.” Stylg choic helped him adapt his look to different ntexts. Oliver liked wearg tight poom-poom shorts, but on his way to school he pulled them low, so that they sagged “ a mascule way.”</p><p class="paywall">At Harvey Milk, Oliver ma iends wh another boy who was obssed wh fashn, Jam Garland. Each was an only child, raised by an dulgent sgle mother who had given her son the master bedroom. They rerd televisn broadsts of nway shows and pored over the signs. Garland liked the bonair luxury of Tom Ford; Oliver preferred the forbiddg moods of Rick Owens. Before long, the boys began makg cloth, nductg photo shoots Fort Greene Park, and stagg nway shows at school. They generated new piec through llage, stchg together ems om vtage shops, children’s jackets om thrift stor, and treasur om their mothers’ closets.</p><p class="paywall">After creatg their first le of T-shirts, named Ammo, and their first llectn, Cazzy Calore, Garland and Oliver graduated om Harvey Milk and enrolled at the Fashn Instute of Technology. Garland flourished there, but Oliver chafed agast the curricular nstrats and dropped out his hman year. In 2006, he diverted the tun money that Anne-Marie had saved for him, and lnched a fashn le wh his iend Rl López, who also hung out on Christopher Street. Oliver lled the new le Hood By Air. The phrase suggted a style that was proudly ghetto and proudly éle (“puttg on airs”). Wh a few years, the label had bee the most proment high-fashn brand to have emerged thentilly om street culture.</p><p class="has-dropp has-dropp__lead-standard-headg paywall">Oliver’s origal missn wh the label was to brg to fe menswear what he lls the “thug silhouette”: the shape created by a long T-shirt paired wh saggy pants, as if the wearer had a very long torso and very short legs. He also believed that he uld turn streetwear basics such as oversized hoodi and multipocketed jackets to high-ncept luxury ems.</p><div class="Contaer-bkChBi byNLHx"></div><p class="paywall">By 2007, Hood By Air cloth had begun showg up boutiqu downtown Manhattan. The llectns nnily bed the dac (troers wh a dozen pleats) and the accsible (silk-screened T-shirts). The first Hood By Air T-shirts featured bold graphics and slogans like “Back to the Hood.” Oliver and López had the shirts ctom-ma by Domin tailors, and they were expensive: two hundred dollars apiece. From the start, they sold well.</p><p class="paywall">In the ghts, Manhattan boutiqu were awash signer hoodi (many of them by Jeremy Stt and Raf Simons). Oliver judged their stch too fe, their length too short, their lors too bright, their patterns too by. He felt that signers who appropriated streetwear had a fascatn wh urban men but were also aaid of them—he nsired their sktish engagement to be “peckish,” “gross,” and “disnnected om the real masculy” drivg street culture. He told me, “It’s, like, ‘I thk that guy is really hot, but I don’t know how to approach him, so I’m gog to put elements of <em>myself</em> him.’ There’s a power play where you’re spired by somethg but you don’t want to give cred.” Turned off by the “fey” imatns of streetwear, Oliver ma cloth that were aggrsively harsh and mascule. The graphics on his T-shirts often played wh urban-horror imagery: a panorama of a prison yard, red marks evokg blood spattered by gunfire. At the same time, stead of htg at homoeroticism, he foreground . The first Hood By Air edorial vio, upload to YouTube September, 2007, featured a mol repeatedly grabbg his crotch.</p><figure class="AssetEmbedWrapper-eVDQiB byBkf asset-embed"><div class="AssetEmbedAssetContaer-eJxoAx dBHGoQ asset-embed__asset-ntaer"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW kKwZhx rponsive-asset AssetEmbedRponsiveAsset-cXBNxi eCxVQK asset-embed__rponsive-asset"><div data-attr-viewport-monor="" class="RponsiveCartoonWrapper-iTMMjI eXTYsS rponsive-rtoon AssetEmbedRponsiveAsset-cXBNxi eCxVQK asset-embed__rponsive-asset viewport-monor-anchor"><a class="external-lk rponsive-rtoon__image-lk" data-event-click="{"element":"ExternalLk","outgogURL":"" href=" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa RponsiveCartoonImage-hzNqyc ikeCcH rponsive-rtoon__image rponsive-image"><noscript><img alt="“The village wants to add some younger elrs.”" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src=" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w, 960w, 1280w, 1600w" siz="100vw"/></noscript></picture></a><div class="CaptnWrapper-jSZdqE gdZTpI ptn RponsiveCartoonCaptn-dokfdF hJgaLQ rponsive-rtoon__ptn"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ CaptnText-bHjzlu iUEiRd hWyo bsWloa ptn__text">“The village wants to add some younger elrs.”</span></div><div class="RponsiveCartoonCTA-eiqqMB iDCQRs"><div class="RponsiveCartoonCTAWrapper-CYIqa iTbFtf"><div class="RponsiveCartoonLkButtonWrapper-hqDAJK eSEhbj"><button aria-label="Copy lk to rtoon" class="BaseButton-bLlsy ButtonWrapper-xCepQ bqVKKv YsOBB button button--primary-pair RponsiveCartoonInButton-hBCBMq lpsjql" data-event-click="{"element":"Button"}" data-ttid="Button" type="button"><span class="ButtonLabel-cjAuJN bBWXSg button__label">Copy lk to rtoon</span><div class="ButtonInWrapper-gFdzAL bPDyTT button__in-ntaer"><svg class="in in-pylk" width="24" height="24" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" xmlns="><tle>Copy lk to rtoon</tle><g clip-path="url(#clip0_3732_178637)"><path 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button--primary-pair RponsiveCartoonInButton-hBCBMq lpsjql" data-event-click="{"element":"Button"}" data-ttid="Button" type="button"><span class="ButtonLabel-cjAuJN bBWXSg button__label">Shop</span><div class="ButtonInWrapper-gFdzAL bPDyTT button__in-ntaer"><svg class="in in-rt" width="24" height="24" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" xmlns="><tle>Shop</tle><g clip-path="url(#clip0_3732_178638)"><path fill-le="evenodd" clip-le="evenodd" d="M4 3H2V4H4.23828L6.99617 15.2631C7.11483 15.6982 7.50998 16 7.96094 16H18.0365C18.4875 16 18.8826 15.6982 19.0013 15.2631L20.9648 7.26312C21.1383 6.62698 20.6594 6 20 6H10V7H20L18.0365 15H7.96094L5.03652 3H4.58055H4ZM10.0365 19C10.0365 19.5523 9.58881 20 9.03652 20C8.48424 20 8.03652 19.5523 8.03652 19C8.03652 18.4477 8.48424 18 9.03652 18C9.58881 18 10.0365 18.4477 10.0365 19ZM11.0365 19C11.0365 20.1046 10.1411 21 9.03652 21C7.93195 21 7.03652 20.1046 7.03652 19C7.03652 17.8954 7.93195 17 9.03652 17C10.1411 17 11.0365 17.8954 11.0365 19ZM18.0365 19C18.0365 19.5523 17.5888 20 17.0365 20C16.4842 20 16.0365 19.5523 16.0365 19C16.0365 18.4477 16.4842 18 17.0365 18C17.5888 18 18.0365 18.4477 18.0365 19ZM19.0365 19C19.0365 20.1046 18.1411 21 17.0365 21C15.932 21 15.0365 20.1046 15.0365 19C15.0365 17.8954 15.932 17 17.0365 17C18.1411 17 19.0365 17.8954 19.0365 19Z" fill="black"></path></g><fs><clipPath id="clip0_3732_178638"><rect width="24" height="24" fill="whe"></rect></clipPath><clipPath id="clip1_3732_178638"><rect width="24" height="24" fill="whe"></rect></clipPath></fs></svg></div></button></div></div></div></span></div></figure><p class="paywall">Oliver also embarked on a nceptual exploratn that he lls “formalizg slopps”—highlightg the transnal phas between drsed and undrsed. “It’s like when someone is horny and a T-shirt, and ’s droppg off the shoulr,” Oliver explaed. He liked njurg those allurgly awkward moments when an amoro uple still has a few ems of clothg on: “The ia of that beg so open and so vulnerable—’s, like, ‘Where’s my pants? Where’s my unrwear?’ ”</p></div></div></div><div class="GridItem-buujkM fVLMby grid--em grid-layout__asi"><asi class="PersistentAsiWrapper-VGrR daRVRt persistent-asi" style="posn:absolute;top:to;height:to" data-ttid="PersistentAsiWrapper"><div class="StickyBoxWrapper-jfYB jxBcTH sticky-box"><div class="StickyBoxPrimary-dzWDWL cdhYoN sticky-box__primary"><div class="AdWrapper-dQtivb fZrssQ ad ad--rail"><div class="ad__slot ad__slot--rail" data-no-id="z1wg9"></div></div><div class="ConsumerMarketgUnThemedWrapper-iUTMTf jssHut nsumer-marketg-un nsumer-marketg-un--display-rail" role="prentatn" aria-hidn="te"><div class="nsumer-marketg-un__slot nsumer-marketg-un__slot--display-rail"></div><div class="journey-un"></div></div></div><div class="StickyBoxPlaceholr-grPmrg dxAvXx"></div></div></asi></div></div><div class="RowWrapper-UmqTg HEhan full-bleed-ad row-mid-ntent-ad"><div class="StickyMidContentAdWrapper-fSBzwl drzyIa ad-stickymidntent"><div class="AdWrapper-dQtivb fZrssQ ad ad--mid-ntent should-hold-space"><div class="ad__slot ad__slot--mid-ntent" data-no-id="s4t"></div></div></div></div><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK kHBDeH grid grid-margs grid-ems-2 ArticlePageChunksGrid-hfxa bjczjj grid-layout--adrail narrow wi-adrail"><div class="GridItem-buujkM stRKV grid--em grid-layout__ntent"><div class="BodyWrapper-kufPGa EOneK body body__ntaer article__body" data-journey-hook="client-ntent" data-ttid="BodyWrapper"><div class="body__ner-ntaer"><p class="paywall">By the end of 2009, López and Oliver had put Hood By Air on hiat. López found his own clothg le, and Oliver focsed on hostg a new dance party lled GHE20G0TH1K (Ghetto Gothic). Held var spac Brooklyn and lower Manhattan, the gathergs uned disparate mil trib—urban, goth, queer, punk. Oliver ran GHE20G0TH1K wh his iends Jazm Soto (a pansexual Lata) and Daniel Fisher (a straight whe Jew). Soto was charge, but Oliver sometim took a turn as d.j., and he favored a dark sound. “At the time, no one was playg Marilyn Manson, and I was playg rerds that ronated that way—the ia of, like, fear of the world,” he rells. “I was pryg to my past—all my history of beg provoked.” Many of the party’s charismatic atten wore Hood By Air T-shirts. Intert the brand was so strong that Oliver cid to relnch .</p><div data-attr-viewport-monor="le-recirc" class="le-recirc-wrapper le-recirc-observer-target-2 viewport-monor-anchor"></div><p class="paywall">This time, he had ccial help om Leilah Werb, a filmmaker who was workg on a documentary about a lbian strip club South Central Los Angel. (The film, which she plans to release 2017, off as a female-focsed update of “Paris Is Burng.”) Werb, who was Soto’s girliend at the time, began dog projects wh Oliver, and one day they shot a look book for the signer Telfar, a mutual iend. Oliver was among the people st, and Werb was unaaid of challengg him. She rells, “He was wearg the wrong piece—a shawl—and he refed to be styled. He said, ‘Style me like a lady’—he had on this I’m-a-mure-woman voice. I asked, ‘Can you stand a ltle more like a <em>man</em>?’ The room stopped.”</p><p class="paywall">In 2012, Oliver asked Werb to work alongsi him on the relnch of Hood By Air. (The partnership wh López was pletely dissolved.) She said y. Werb, who is eight years olr than Oliver, told me that she felt protective of Hood By Air. “It was at the pot where other people started seeg as a succs,” she said. “And at that pot people start to rob you—bld. They start to trick you.” She was wary of mastream cultural figur lookg for a quick way to acquire edge—of vatns to, say, “work on Katy Perry’s team.” Shortly after Werb beme Oliver’s partner, vtors offered to buy Hood By Air and put Oliver and Werb on fixed salari. She was appalled. “This isn’t fuckg Motown!” she said. Hood By Air, she clared, would rema closed to outsi vtors while was s “cubatn perd.” (To date, the pany hasn’t accepted any outsi vtments—an arrangement that is virtually unheard of the fashn dtry.)</p><p class="paywall">In orr for Hood By Air to mata ntrol of s tellectual property, Werb believed, had to grow quickly and attract media attentn. Otherwise, the pany’s signs would be pirated by bigger labels, which treated avant-gar street culture as a rource to be plunred. In a 2013 article the <em>Tim,</em> Guy Trebay suggted that Ricrdo Tisci, the creative director of Givenchy, had referenced Hood By Air signs “whout credg them.” (A spokperson for Givenchy said, “Hood By Air has never been a reference for our brand.”)</p><p class="paywall">Around the time that Werb joed Hood By Air, prented a nway show at Milk Studs, on Fifteenth Street. One of the mols st for the show was the rapper A$AP Rocky, a iend of Oliver’s at the time. Rocky’s participatn helped the brand reach a wir dience, affordg a measure of protectn agast fashn-world vultur. Rocky also boosted Hood By Air’s reputatn by rporatg endorsements of the label to his lyrics. His votn eventually oled, though, and 2014 he released a diss track that clud cricisms of the brand. He gloated to a reporter, “I birthed , so I n kill .” But Rocky was too late. Hood By Air had tablished a cult followg among affluent teen-agers, avant-gar adults, and pop stars like Rihanna, Jt Bieber, and Kanye Wt. The label was crilly acclaimed, too, wng the Swarovski Award for Menswear, om the Council of Fashn Digners of Ameri, and a six-figure prize om L.V.M.H. Although Hood By Air remaed rigoroly experimental, also beme profable, as fans led up to buy T-shirts wh the H.B.A. logo, which st as much as six hundred dollars each. Acrdg to Hood By Air, s sal have doubled every season sce 2013. The brand’s reach remas unimprsive by Gucci standards, but bs has been good enough to give Oliver “the abily to do whatever the hell I want” the stud. (He still shar an apartment wh his mother, Prospect Heights.)</p><p class="has-dropp has-dropp__lead-standard-headg paywall">Last September, I vised a cramped office that Hood By Air was rentg on Hter Street, on the Lower East Si. The space, crowd wh garment racks, uld have been mistaken for a stume shop, were not for the giant poster boards propped agast the walls, which were vered mi-Polaroids of harsh, allurg fac. Attached to each photograph was a Post- scrawled wh a ncept: “<em class="small">spanish htlers</em>,” “<em class="small">obscure fetish</em>.”</p><p class="paywall">A dozen men and women, cludg Leilah Werb, sat a circle, wh only one subtle sign of hierarchy: Oliver was the only person not takg not. Sce 2012, Hood By Air had grown to a small llective, and s members were meetg to falize plans for the Sprg/Summer 2016 nway show. They had been joed by an outsir, Rich Aybar, a eelance stylist. Born on the Upper Wt Si to Domin parents, he looked like a cross between a Rastafarian and Rasput.</p><p class="paywall">Oliver was drsed jeans, a black vt, and a Hood By Air necklace—a chunky cha and a padlock—that he never remov. “Ooooooh!” he said. He had jt received a text. “Connie jt got nfirmed for the door.” He was referrg to Connie Girl, a doorwoman who was famo for beg impossible to get past and impossible to book. “Taste that,” he said. “<em>Ta-a-a-aste.</em>”</p><p class="paywall">“What’s the lightg like at the space?” Akeem Smh, Hood By Air’s chief stylist, asked. His hair was small braids gathered to pigtails, and he wore a T-shirt bearg the words “The Black Geni.”</p><p class="paywall">“Bright,” Werb replied. “Whe-blue.”</p><div data-attr-viewport-monor="le-recirc" class="le-recirc-wrapper le-recirc-observer-target-3 viewport-monor-anchor"></div><p class="paywall">“Clil,” Oliver said, approvgly. The show was beg held at Penn Plaza Paviln, a verno, fluorcent-l buildg, oppose Madison Square Garn, that was slated for moln. Hood By Air shows are tradnally held unglamoro spac.</p><p class="paywall">Several people got up to leave, and a smaller group began discsg the stg of mols. Each season, labels pete to book them, and Cathy Horyn, a cric at large at <em>New York,</em> told me that Hood By Air had some of “the bt stg of the season, and I mean anywhere.” The brand is known for “streetstg”—enlistg people who aren’t profsnal mols.</p></div></div></div><div class="GridItem-buujkM fVLMby grid--em grid-layout__asi"><div class="StickyBoxWrapper-jfYB jxBcTH sticky-box"><div class="StickyBoxPrimary-dzWDWL cdhYoN sticky-box__primary"></div><div class="StickyBoxPlaceholr-grPmrg dxAvXx"></div></div></div></div><div class="RowWrapper-UmqTg HEhan full-bleed-ad row-mid-ntent-ad"><div class="StickyMidContentAdWrapper-fSBzwl drzyIa ad-stickymidntent"><div class="AdWrapper-dQtivb fZrssQ ad ad--mid-ntent should-hold-space"><div class="ad__slot ad__slot--mid-ntent" data-no-id="eeorc"></div></div></div></div><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK kHBDeH grid grid-margs grid-ems-2 ArticlePageChunksGrid-hfxa bjczjj grid-layout--adrail narrow wi-adrail"><div class="GridItem-buujkM stRKV grid--em grid-layout__ntent"><div class="BodyWrapper-kufPGa EOneK body body__ntaer article__body" data-journey-hook="client-ntent" data-ttid="BodyWrapper"><div class="body__ner-ntaer"><p class="paywall">The group stood and went over to a stg board, which was crammed wh photographs of prospects. “We have to ed,” Oliver clared, spectg the imag. “We have to be really hard right now.”</p><p class="paywall">“I thk your story up there is really strong,” Aybar said. “It’s, like, Unrnourished Retards— a betiful way.” He liked the “livg-unr-the-bridge vibe.” Then Aybar started rippg photos off the board. One boy, a Ryan Lochte type, was emed “too dopey—a whe guy the most borg way.” Oliver asked that another male mol be removed for havg a swishy walk that stck him as off-brand. “It’s <em>gay-y-y-y-y,</em>” he said. After thirty mut, a dozen pictur had been taken off the board.</p><p class="paywall">The signg of cloth follows a siar group dynamic. Pl Cupo, the brand’s fashn director, told me, “The top ncept is Shayne’s ncept, and there’s a very select group of people that are allowed to ntribute to this ncept. Shayne then up wh some shap and silhouett he wants to show, and then I plug fabrics and lors.”</p><p class="paywall">Cupo, an Italian-Amerin om Bensonhurst who favors loose tank tops and sneakers, showed me a creatn for the upg show. “The basic ia is a bomber,” he said. Instead of g nylon for the shell, however, he had ed taffeta—a material often fashned to ball gowns and weddg drs. It was a surprisg choice, he acknowledged wh a se: “It’s sort of a weird fabric for ‘young edgy ol signers’ to be g.” A Hood By Air bomber jacket sells for nearly a thoand dollars.</p><le-embed name="feature-flt" attrs="[object Object]" childTyp="gallery" ntentType="llout:feature-flt"><div class="GalleryEmbedWrapper-llMpjF eNSLoK gallery-embed"><hr class="GalleryEmbedHr-dXMdzM fCNcvb gallery-embed__hr"/><span class="GalleryEmbedSwipe-IABKO llRwJY" style="touch-actn:none"><ul style="transform:translate(0px, 0)" class="GalleryEmbedSliList-koIlkn jiZeeK"><li class="GalleryEmbedSliListItem-fKJGAO iJdYaZ"><div class="GallerySliWrapper-yxPsh dkOugQ" data-event-boundary="click" data--view="{"pattern":"GallerySli","variatn":"GallerySli.ItemCenterNoCaptn"}" data-event-click="{"pattern":"GallerySli","variatn":"GallerySli.ItemCenterNoCaptn"}" orientatn="portra" data-ttid="GallerySliWrapper"><figure class="GallerySliFigure-jhDfjI bGQGmP"><div orientatn="portra" class="GallerySliAssetWrapper-jGbftJ eCdWNA"><div class="GallerySliAssetContaer-hwdsAZ gNfA-dy"><div class="GallerySliAssetContaerInner-BTnef fyLCFI"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW jvZaPI rponsive-asset GallerySliRponsiveAsset-bXKMLC lluiXZ GallerySliRponsiveAsset"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa GallerySliRponsiveAsset-bXKMLC lluiXZ GallerySliRponsiveAsset rponsive-image"><img alt="Shayne Oliver the red jacket behd the scen at Hood By Airs Pilgrimage show at Skylight at Moynihan Statn on..." class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src=" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w, 960w, 1280w, 1600w" siz="100vw"/></picture></span></div></div></div></figure></div></li><li class="GalleryEmbedSliListItem-fKJGAO iJdYaZ"><div class="GallerySliWrapper-yxPsh dkOugQ" data-event-boundary="click" data--view="{"pattern":"GallerySli","variatn":"GallerySli.ItemCenterNoCaptn"}" data-event-click="{"pattern":"GallerySli","variatn":"GallerySli.ItemCenterNoCaptn"}" orientatn="portra" data-ttid="GallerySliWrapper"><figure class="GallerySliFigure-jhDfjI bGQGmP"><div orientatn="portra" class="GallerySliAssetWrapper-jGbftJ eCdWNA"><div class="GallerySliAssetContaer-hwdsAZ gNfA-dy"><div class="GallerySliAssetContaerInner-BTnef fyLCFI"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW jvZaPI rponsive-asset GallerySliRponsiveAsset-bXKMLC lluiXZ GallerySliRponsiveAsset"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa GallerySliRponsiveAsset-bXKMLC lluiXZ GallerySliRponsiveAsset rponsive-image"><img alt="A mol at Hood By Airs Pilgrimage show. Shayne Oliver says that his signs explore what he lls “formalizg..." class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src=" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w, 960w, 1280w, 1600w" siz="100vw"/></picture></span></div></div></div></figure></div></li><li class="GalleryEmbedSliListItem-fKJGAO iJdYaZ"><div class="GallerySliWrapper-yxPsh kubsDs" data-event-boundary="click" data--view="{"pattern":"GallerySli","variatn":"GallerySli.ItemCenterNoCaptn"}" data-event-click="{"pattern":"GallerySli","variatn":"GallerySli.ItemCenterNoCaptn"}" orientatn="landspe" data-ttid="GallerySliWrapper"><figure class="GallerySliFigure-jhDfjI bGQGmP"><div orientatn="landspe" class="GallerySliAssetWrapper-jGbftJ jqUBFt"><div class="GallerySliAssetContaer-hwdsAZ gNfA-dy"><div class="GallerySliAssetContaerInner-BTnef fyLCFI"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW jvZaPI rponsive-asset GallerySliRponsiveAsset-bXKMLC lluiXZ GallerySliRponsiveAsset"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa GallerySliRponsiveAsset-bXKMLC lluiXZ GallerySliRponsiveAsset rponsive-image"><img alt="Rubber boots that have had their sol dipped red liquid latex at a ftg on the Lower East Si one day before the..." class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src=" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w, 960w, 1280w, 1600w" siz="100vw"/></picture></span></div></div></div></figure></div></li></ul></span><div class="GalleryEmbedControlsStyl-dHFqsy bfpTGb"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ GalleryEmbedControlsCounter-cTFhZe iUEiRd fePcfF iyyCZU"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ GalleryEmbedControlsCounterInx-KxYYM iUEiRd fePcfF">1 </span><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ GalleryEmbedControlsCounterCount-hjjCXF iUEiRd bFLrVK">/ 9</span></span><div role="prentatn" class="GalleryEmbedControlsController-bemMMG kAIVAh"><button aria-label="gallery-back" class="BaseButton-bLlsy ButtonWrapper-xCepQ bqVKKv dZjwET button button--utily GalleryEmbedControlsButton-dA-dlPo jNwzCb" data-event-click="{"element":"Button"}" data-ttid="Button" type="button"><span class="ButtonLabel-cjAuJN bBWXSg button__label"></span><div class="ButtonInWrapper-gFdzAL bPDyTT button__in-ntaer"><svg class="ButtonIn-YqaGo iwlhuX button-in in in-chevron" focable="false" viewBox="0 0 32 32" width="32" height="32" xmlns="><tle>Chevron</tle><path d="M19.071 16L12 8.929l1.414-1.414L21.9 16l-8.485 8.485L12 23.071z" fill-le="nonzero"></path></svg></div></button><button aria-label="gallery-forward" class="BaseButton-bLlsy ButtonWrapper-xCepQ bqVKKv dZjwET button button--utily GalleryEmbedControlsButton-dA-dlPo dCrXjf" data-event-click="{"element":"Button"}" data-ttid="Button" type="button"><span class="ButtonLabel-cjAuJN bBWXSg button__label"></span><div class="ButtonInWrapper-gFdzAL bPDyTT button__in-ntaer"><svg class="ButtonIn-YqaGo iwlhuX button-in in in-chevron" focable="false" viewBox="0 0 32 32" width="32" height="32" xmlns="><tle>Chevron</tle><path d="M19.071 16L12 8.929l1.414-1.414L21.9 16l-8.485 8.485L12 23.071z" fill-le="nonzero"></path></svg></div></button></div></div><figptn class="GalleryEmbedCaptnWrapper-eUYjyD cYOJII"><div class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ GalleryEmbedCred-fLWDcf bVluTY fwTxLZ cLAnWT">Photography by Jeremy Liebman for The New Yorker</div><div class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ GalleryEmbedCaptnSliBody-ljkTbv jZrgsf eIRSrt">Shayne Oliver, the red jacket, behd the scen at Hood By Air’s Pilgrimage show, at Skylight at Moynihan Statn, on Wt Thirty-third Street, on Febary 14, 2016. Oliver, one of the founrs of H.B.A., feels that some signers who appropriate streetwear have a fascatn wh urban men but are also aaid of them—he nsirs their sktish engagement to be “disnnected om the real masculy” drivg street culture.</div></figptn><hr class="GalleryEmbedHr-dXMdzM fCNcvb gallery-embed__hr"/></div></le-embed><p class="has-dropp has-dropp__lead-standard-headg paywall">A few days later, at Penn Plaza Paviln, Hood By Air sent a male mol down the nway a tight bun, a shirtdrs, and black heels. The shirtdrs, ma wh black silk, was divid to sectns, which had been loosely lashed together wh chalike zippers. The bottom had a feme band of ffl, as one might fd on a drs worn by Michelle Obama to a state dner. The middle was a wraparound panel of fabric that, om a distance, rembled high-waisted athletic shorts. The top was a button-down shirt wh a crisp llar and oversized chiffon sleev. Like a chimera, the shirtdrs was ngo but betiful.</p><p class="paywall">The mol, who had been spotted on Instagram, was a twenty-seven-year-old om Wt Harlem named Mello Santos. He had a th mtache and a goatee, and as he walked down the nway he allowed the zippers holdg the outf together to start g undone. Dark silk was peelg off his torso like a rotten-banana peel, and the garment threatened to self-stct at any moment, revealg Santos’s many tattoos (and parts of his anatomy). From some angl, Santos looked like a cross-drsg gangster; om others, like a futuristic pop star.</p><p class="paywall">Subsequent mols showed off equally mongrel creatns: bomber jackets recut to togas, backpacks ma om tufted sofa pillows. Some mols looked like bulli, others like prey. A rerdg of the Jamain dancehall performer Buju Banton roared over glchy speakers. “Circumstanc ma me what I am,” he sang. “Was I born a vlent man?” For the fale, each mol took a seat on a raised platform, as if posg for a class picture. Together, they looked sry but sexy, butch yet femme.</p><div data-attr-viewport-monor="le-recirc" class="le-recirc-wrapper le-recirc-observer-target-4 viewport-monor-anchor"></div><p class="paywall">The llectn was lled Galvanize, and the ia for the nway show was to evoke the ramshackle school that Oliver briefly attend as a youth Tridad. To galvanize is to electrify—to shock and spire. But also means to at scrap metal wh a layer of zc; ’s the poor man’s versn of gildg. Galvanized steel is a mon roofg material Tridad, and the show’s name suggted a dualy about growg up the Wt Indi: Oliver claimed that the tn he received at the school was exceptnal—“llege-level English fourth gra,” he said—but the buildg was crep. This dualy extend to the stunts’ clothg. Oliver and his classmat modified tattered, hand-me-down uniforms so that they beme fashnable looks. The Galvanize llectn—manufactured Italy om sumptuo materials but wh roots a Caribbean schoolyard—was gild streetwear whose aim was to electrify the dience and spire a new generatn to rry the untercultural torch.</p><p class="paywall">The show imprsed many crics. Sally Sger, the creative digal director of <em>Vogue</em>, told me that Hood By Air had prented one of the season’s top llectns. Cathy Horyn, the <em>New York</em> cric, who was seeg a Hood By Air show for the first time, wrote that the cloth reprented a “shock om the future” and a “fist your face.” She told me that Hood By Air’s startlg signs were wele mutatns an era which high fashn is ntrolled by bland ternatnal nglomerat.</p><p class="paywall">Several crics scribed the cloth the Galvanize llectn as “nstcted.” Denstctn—whether of a novel, a soufflé, or a shirt—means breakg down a ncept to s nstuent parts, often wh an eye toward stabilizg our visn of the whole. In fashn, ’s tradnally associated wh accentuatg raw edg and functnal elements like seams. Hood By Air’s llectn, however, riffed on the modifitns that <em>wearers</em> make to those signs—tails like slashg, croppg, and saggg, which typilly fe a look only after profsnals have fished their work.</p><p class="paywall">Galvanize was an homage to the expandg hort of shoppers who e clothg to revise standard imag of race and genr. (Werb lls such nsumers “morn people.”) In blunt terms, a rich whe woman n wear a Hood By Air garment and feel morn bee mak her look like a poor black man; a poor black man n wear and feel morn bee mak him look like a rich whe woman. Whereas other labels had merely broken down sign, Hood By Air was breakg down inty.</p><p class="paywall">A classic nstctnist turns garments to sculptur and mols to sffoldg; Mart Margiela often vered his mols’ fac. In the show for the Galvanize llectn, the mols’ fac—adorned wh splotchy, wrah-like makp—were key visual elements. The splotch paid homage to YouTube makp-ntourg tutorials, evokg the moment jt before blendg tools transform a pated monster to a Kardashian.</p><p class="paywall">Dpe the show’s triumphant receptn, did not unfold whout flaws. There was a monumental error the executn of the choreography: the mols failed to crisscross, as directed, along the venue’s multiple twalks, wh the rult that much of the dience saw only half the llectn. It was a mistake that might have sent a tyrant like Co Chanel or Alexanr McQueen to a rage. Oliver, though, was unfazed. After the show, he appeared briefly at a bar on the Lower East Si, and spent only fifteen sends nferrg wh Werb about the mistake before movg on to a more vexg problem: someone had given Oliver’s mother the addrs of a rented penthoe where the Galvanize llectn had been put together, and where a post-show gatherg would be held. (The Hter Street office was too small to acmodate dozens of mols.) Anne-Marie had jt arrived at the penthoe wh pk hair and an entourage of younger Ao-Caribbean women. Oliver was forlorn. “This is exactly the moment <em>I</em> want to turn up!” he moaned, bbg his chebic head, which was shaved, and clutchg at a floor-length sweater-drs of his own sign. “Now my mother is there wh <em>her iends!</em>”</p><p class="paywall">I happened to know the inty of the culpr who had supplied Anne-Marie wh the party’s addrs. It was Werb, who enjoys seeg Anne-Marie at every nway show. Her own parents have never e to one.</p></div></div></div><div class="GridItem-buujkM fVLMby grid--em grid-layout__asi"><div class="StickyBoxWrapper-jfYB jxBcTH sticky-box"><div class="StickyBoxPrimary-dzWDWL cdhYoN sticky-box__primary"><div class="AdWrapper-dQtivb fZrssQ ad ad--rail"><div class="ad__slot ad__slot--rail" data-no-id="2ox2uo"></div></div><div class="ConsumerMarketgUnThemedWrapper-iUTMTf jssHut nsumer-marketg-un nsumer-marketg-un--display-rail" role="prentatn" aria-hidn="te"><div class="nsumer-marketg-un__slot nsumer-marketg-un__slot--display-rail"></div><div class="journey-un"></div></div></div><div class="StickyBoxPlaceholr-grPmrg dxAvXx"></div></div></div></div><div class="RowWrapper-UmqTg HEhan full-bleed-ad row-mid-ntent-ad"><div class="StickyMidContentAdWrapper-fSBzwl drzyIa ad-stickymidntent"><div class="AdWrapper-dQtivb fZrssQ ad ad--mid-ntent should-hold-space"><div class="ad__slot ad__slot--mid-ntent" data-no-id="18rn99"></div></div></div></div><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK kHBDeH grid grid-margs grid-ems-2 ArticlePageChunksGrid-hfxa bjczjj grid-layout--adrail narrow wi-adrail"><div class="GridItem-buujkM stRKV grid--em grid-layout__ntent"><div class="BodyWrapper-kufPGa EOneK body body__ntaer article__body" data-journey-hook="client-ntent" data-ttid="BodyWrapper"><div class="body__ner-ntaer"><p class="paywall">In late March, ems om the Galvanize llectn began to arrive stor. Barneys New York stalled life-size silin replis of six Hood By Air mols s four wdows on Madison Avenue. Two of the mols were Hood By Air regulars named Chucky and Sunny—Angelenos whose bodi (and fac) are vered tattoos. In the wdow, the fake Sunny wore a pleated pant-drs, and his mouth was held open by a guard typilly ed ntal surgery. Chucky wore a padlocked baby pacifier and a purple leather shroud that might look good on a Jedi. It was the first time that the wdows had featured mannequs menswear. When I stopped by to see the display, April, crowds of tourists, joed by lol one-per-centers, had gathered to gawk. Many observers reacted wh baffled revulsn. Insi the store, meanwhile, none of the radil cloth worn by the mannequs were for sale. The Hood By Air racks were stead filled wh logo te. The nway piec may have blown fashn crics’ mds, but was the T-shirts that had changed the way people drsed.</p><p class="has-dropp has-dropp__lead-standard-headg paywall">Leilah Werb studied film as a graduate stunt at Bard. Before jog Hood By Air, she had no experience bs. Her official tle is C.E.O., but she told me that the signatn is “fictnal.” She reils at any suggtn that she is Oliver’s Pierre Bergé—the mandg executive who helped Yv Sat Lrent bee an ternatnal brand. She took the tle of C.E.O. part so that she would be taken as serly as a man would be: “If I were jt Shayne’s iend, and a woman, and <em>me</em>, people would jt be, like, ‘O.K., bch, get the fuck out of the way.’ ”</p><p class="paywall">As Hood By Air has expand to a llective, she explaed, everyone wh thory is sentially a creative director—even if, like her, they don’t lerally sign cloth. The early phas of the label’s sign procs take place group texts that unfurl over weeks. For the Galvanize llectn, eight employe ntributed to what she lls a “nng personal diary.” In addn, the label has an iCloud folr for sharg found imag—Hood By Air’s equivalent of a mood board. Werb wouldn’t let me exame the entire folr for the llectn, but she sent me a selectn of the materials. There were photographs of Ike and Ta Turner, a <em class="small">JPEG</em> of Aunt Viv, om “The Frh Prce of Bel-Air,” and a picture of a Che acupuncturist who stuck two thoand and eight needl his head, honor of the 2008 Summer Olympics. “It’s mem,” Pl Cupo, the fashn director, explaed to me. “It’s never really leral—you’ll never see a jacket on our reference board.” In 2015, when <em>Women’s Wear Daily</em> asked Hood By Air for an “spiratn photo,” the label sent back a screenshot of porn.</p><div data-attr-viewport-monor="le-recirc" class="le-recirc-wrapper le-recirc-observer-target-5 viewport-monor-anchor"></div><p class="paywall">Werb is one of only a few lbians high fashn. (Others clu Patricia Field and J. Crew’s Jenna Lyons.) She grew up the Koreatown sectn of Los Angel, the dghter of an Ain-Amerin textile signer om Compton and a Jewish pediatrician om Fort Wayne, Indiana. She is small wh squty ey, broad shoulrs, and an almond-shaped face. The sk around her ey is darker tone; the racon-like circl are so formidable and stylish, and prented wh such aplomb, that strangers often n’t ci whether the lorg is ngenal or smetic.</p><p class="paywall">Rebell om the start, Werb ran away om home several tim as a teen-ager. In rponse, she claims, her parents threatened to put her foster re. (Her parents ny this.) As a promise, Werb went to high school Israel, through an exchange program.</p><figure class="AssetEmbedWrapper-eVDQiB byBkf asset-embed"><div class="AssetEmbedAssetContaer-eJxoAx dBHGoQ asset-embed__asset-ntaer"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW kKwZhx rponsive-asset AssetEmbedRponsiveAsset-cXBNxi eCxVQK asset-embed__rponsive-asset"><div data-attr-viewport-monor="" class="RponsiveCartoonWrapper-iTMMjI eXTYsS rponsive-rtoon AssetEmbedRponsiveAsset-cXBNxi eCxVQK asset-embed__rponsive-asset viewport-monor-anchor"><a class="external-lk rponsive-rtoon__image-lk" data-event-click="{"element":"ExternalLk","outgogURL":"" href=" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa RponsiveCartoonImage-hzNqyc ikeCcH rponsive-rtoon__image rponsive-image"><noscript><img alt="Hood By Airs Radil Streetwear" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src=" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w, 960w, 1280w, 1600w" 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17C18.1411 17 19.0365 17.8954 19.0365 19Z" fill="black"></path></g><fs><clipPath id="clip0_3732_178638"><rect width="24" height="24" fill="whe"></rect></clipPath><clipPath id="clip1_3732_178638"><rect width="24" height="24" fill="whe"></rect></clipPath></fs></svg></div></button></div></div></div></span></div></figure><p class="paywall">After a year, Werb returned to L.A., legally emancipated herself, and looked for a job. Her uncle knew a buyer at Ron Herman, an upsle clothg store, and helped Werb secure a shopgirl posn. “It was Brentwood,” she rells. “There would be kids shoppg there that were my same age. I hated .” She soon took a job at Maxfield, a boutique wh a more progrsive bent. Its owner asked her to help oversee the books sectn, where she beiend a regular who liked to lger the store and discs topics such as slavery, Ameri, and Judaism. It was the director Tony Kaye, who had jt ma a film about a whe supremacist, “Amerin History X.”</p><p class="paywall">One day, Werb saw Kaye’s face on the ver of a magaze. She read an terview si and noticed somethg: many of Kaye’s answers borrowed language that she remembered g durg their nversatns at Maxfield. Werb sensed an opportuny. She lled Kaye and said, “I want to do this for you full time. I’ll be your voice, I’ll answer all your qutns, I’ll do your rearch.” There was a tch: Werb was fdg wh her fay aga, and she need money to pursue higher tn. She told Kaye, “If you send me to llege, I’ll be your profsnal stunt, and you n own all my papers.” Kaye agreed, and began payg her tun when she enrolled at Antch College, Oh. When Werb returned to L.A. for breaks, she assisted Kaye on mercial shoots and chffred him around the cy. The arrangement lasted until Kaye got a girliend who mand an end to the tun payments.</p><p class="paywall">Kaye famoly lost ntrol of “Amerin History X” the edg sue, when New Le Cema allowed Ed Norton, the film’s lead actor, to do the fal cut. (Kaye disavowed the versn that was released.) The cint left a lastg imprsn on Werb: if you don’t ntrol celebri, they’ll end up ntrollg you. She was happy to leave people like A$AP Rocky behd. As she put , she preferred to go alone and make Hood By Air’s “own world happen.” She was adamant that she would not temper the label’s provotns. “People are to high ncepts and rpond well to them,” she assured me. “People want drama. They love .”</p><p class="has-dropp has-dropp__lead-standard-headg paywall">The penthoe that Hood By Air rented the weeks before the Galvanize show had thedral ceilgs, a vast terrace, and an eight-person hot tub overlookg the Lower East Si. An apparent extravagance, the penthoe was leased orr to save money on hotel rooms by providg a live-and-work space for llaborators flyg to New York. This ugal-luxury strategy would succeed, though, only if the palatial digs survived the week tact. (The label has a history of losg hotel damage poss.) To keep the proceedgs profsnal, alhol was banned om the penthoe until the work was fished.</p><p class="paywall">Five days before the Penn Plaza Paviln show, I vised the penthoe, which was agrant wh expensive leathers and gleamg wh racks of ltro silks. Mols began to arrive, lg up like supplints to be drsed by the label’s clergy. Hirakish, a twenty-two-year-old Ain-Amerin artist and mician om New Orleans, was one of the season’s most charismatic new mols. He was walleyed and skeletal—you uld see every bone his cranium. For the show, he was to be drsed a slashed weddg gown and accsorized wh a strip of gze affixed to his forehead, as if he had jt survived a street fight. He was drag, but the effect wasn’t mpy: he looked mutilated but threateng, like a zombie. Hirakish had moved to New York a month earlier, after breakg up wh his girliend, and this was his first fashn show. “This is what I dreamed of,” he nfid, gazg at the penthoe’s occupants, who clud several d.j.s whom he followed on Instagram. “This is the morn-day Andy Warhol.” (I never heard the prcipals of Hood By Air pare their workplace to the Factory. Instead, they referred to the label as a “fay pany.”)</p><p class="paywall">As eveng fell, I spoke wh Ian Isiah, Hood By Air’s “global brand ambassador” and an -hoe me. Isiah n pull off the label’s cloth wh nfince—or, as Oliver puts , wh “a lot of swag.” Isiah wears the brand exclively, and between nway shows one of his rponsibili is to attend events where he will be photographed. He also ach celebri on how to wear Hood By Air properly. Six feet tall, he shav sls his eyebrows and styl his hair tendril-like dreads.</p><p class="paywall">Isiah went out to the terrace. Disrobg and gettg to the hot tub, he said, “Now, <em>this</em> is a fashn terview.”</p><div data-attr-viewport-monor="le-recirc" class="le-recirc-wrapper le-recirc-observer-target-6 viewport-monor-anchor"></div><p class="paywall">Isiah had been helpg to rec other mols for the Galvanize show. The label, he said, had sought to create a unique table: “Black doll-babi. Transgenr babi. Ltle skater boyish-boys. Boys wh rash on their face—ls albo, more sbs everywhere. Brac! There’s a brac girl on the board.”</p><p class="paywall">Isiah told me that the more tablished fashn brands were tryg to keep current by pyg Hood By Air’s streetstg (and, sometim, by poachg mols wh the promise of more money). But he wasn’t worried about the petn. “All the granni of the ten-year anniversari”—he was disparagg Alexanr Wang, who was celebratg his label’s cennial—“are tryg to latch on to what’s happeng now, which you n’t do by gettg a random mol. You need a <em>culture</em> behd .”</p></div></div></div><div class="GridItem-buujkM fVLMby grid--em grid-layout__asi"><div class="StickyBoxWrapper-jfYB jxBcTH sticky-box"><div class="StickyBoxPrimary-dzWDWL cdhYoN sticky-box__primary"></div><div class="StickyBoxPlaceholr-grPmrg dxAvXx"></div></div></div></div><div class="RowWrapper-UmqTg HEhan full-bleed-ad row-mid-ntent-ad"><div class="StickyMidContentAdWrapper-fSBzwl drzyIa ad-stickymidntent"><div class="AdWrapper-dQtivb fZrssQ ad ad--mid-ntent should-hold-space"><div class="ad__slot ad__slot--mid-ntent" data-no-id="gcs70n"></div></div></div></div><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK kHBDeH grid grid-margs grid-ems-2 ArticlePageChunksGrid-hfxa bjczjj grid-layout--adrail narrow wi-adrail"><div class="GridItem-buujkM stRKV grid--em grid-layout__ntent"><div class="BodyWrapper-kufPGa EOneK body body__ntaer article__body" data-journey-hook="client-ntent" data-ttid="BodyWrapper"><div class="body__ner-ntaer"><p class="paywall">Oliver appeared, and Isiah urged him to get the tub.</p><p class="paywall">“What, you want me to do Mariah?” Oliver asked, alludg to Mariah Carey’s passn for swimmg fully clothed.</p><p class="paywall">“Yas!” Isiah squealed. “We got a dryer.”</p><p class="paywall">Oliver cid to fo cloth. A stg associate named Walter Pearce walked onto the terrace. A eic twenty-year-old wh sixteen thoand Instagram followers, Pearce looked like a member of the st of “Kids,” but he had e to the Lower East Si by way of Chappaqua, where he graduated om Horace Greeley High School. Like Oliver, he had dropped out of F.I.T.</p><p class="paywall">“I started terng for Shayne when I was fifteen,” Pearce said. “They lerally raised me.” A gifted streetster, Pearce was rponsible for brgg on Hirakish, the New Orleans mol. “He’s a legend,” Pearce clared. “And ’s not only bee his look is unreal; ’s bee he liv the life—he’s a maniac.”</p><p class="paywall">Oliver nfirmed that Hirakish was “extremely H.B.A.” He grabbed a towel and took a seat on a nearby bench. “I have nversatns wh him, and I’m, like, ‘Whoa, his md is so sane—I want to work wh this person.’ ” Hirakish’s md was so sane that, later that night, he urated si the penthoe elevator. The mishap panicked Oliver until he disvered that there were no secury meras to rerd the vlatn. Oliver admired Hirakish’s unhibed spir, and felt a duty to place people like him unr Hood By Air’s wg: “It’s almost, like, not orphanage-y, but I want to see the energi succeed.” (Later, he add, “New energy is very timidatg— rewr what has been created. We all get jad by experienc life, but I try to create environments for younger kids.”)</p><div data-attr-viewport-monor="le-recirc" class="le-recirc-wrapper le-recirc-observer-target-7 viewport-monor-anchor"></div><p class="paywall">Pearce, who is gnt and pale, got to the hot tub, and Isiah oed, “Oooh, we got <em>tra</em> the water.”</p><p class="paywall">Cupo and Akeem Smh, the stylist, joed the group, along wh several terns. Werb eventually got , too. Many of the people the hot tub, if viewed om behd, would be hard to intify terms of race and genr. Oliver and Werb had plaed to me that fashn crics often scribed their work wh terms like “unisex” and “genr-fluid,” which evoked shapels androgyn. Oliver hated “unisex,” bee the word was unsexy. Werb had a siar problem wh “genr-fluid”— her timatn, was “not hot.” She had e up wh a syntactil solutn, though. “You n say differently, and <em>uld</em> be hot,” she said. “Like, ‘Wa, I smell genr fluid.’ ‘I’d like a ltle genr for my ffee.’ ”</p><p class="paywall">By now, more than a dozen Hood By Air employe were the hot tub, and the gatherg looked at once absurd and utopian: creative directors splashg and lghg alongsi their junr associat. At one pot, Werb spoke efully of how Hood By Air was perceived by outsirs. She said, “People are, like, ‘The super-genr-bendg, nonnformg, all-day-all-night party that’s g at you <em>so wdy!</em> Who’s a boy? Who’s a girl?’ Then you’re embarrassed by your own life.” ♦</p></div></div></div><div class="GridItem-buujkM fVLMby grid--em grid-layout__asi"><div class="StickyBoxWrapper-jfYB jxBcTH sticky-box"><div class="StickyBoxPrimary-dzWDWL cdhYoN sticky-box__primary"><div class="AdWrapper-dQtivb fZrssQ ad ad--rail"><div class="ad__slot ad__slot--rail" data-no-id="9l47hh"></div></div><div class="ConsumerMarketgUnThemedWrapper-iUTMTf jssHut nsumer-marketg-un nsumer-marketg-un--display-rail" role="prentatn" aria-hidn="te"><div class="nsumer-marketg-un__slot nsumer-marketg-un__slot--display-rail"></div><div class="journey-un"></div></div></div><div class="StickyBoxPlaceholr-grPmrg dxAvXx"></div></div></div></div></div><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK kHBDeH grid grid-margs grid-ems-2 PaywallInleBarrierWhWrapperGrid-fyrGfS kLQIUk grid-layout--adrail narrow wi-adrail"><div class="GridItem-buujkM stRKV grid--em grid-layout__ntent"><div class="body body__le-barrier article__body"><div class="ntaer 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href="/magaze/2008/03/10/elegant-monsters" aria-hidn="te" tabx="-1" data-ponent-type="recirc-river" data-recirc-id="em-image-1" data-recirc-pattern="summary-em" target="_self"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW kGxnNB rponsive-asset SummaryItemRponsiveAsset-hjGIGg bDvSkO summary-em__image"><div data-tt="aspect-rat-ntaer" class="AspectRatContaer-bJHpJz ktcjQn"><div class="aspect-rat--overlay-ntaer"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa SummaryItemRponsiveAsset-hjGIGg bDvSkO summary-em__image rponsive-image"><noscript><source media="(max-width: 767px)" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w" siz="100vw"/><source media="(m-width: 768px)" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w" siz="100vw"/><img alt="Elegant Monsters" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src="></noscript></picture></div></div></span></a></div><div class="SummaryItemContent-eiDYMl XMZX summary-em__ntent"><div class="RubricWrapper-dKmCNX kImuKS bric bric--disvery SummaryItemRubric-dguGKN lapGFj 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class="SpanWrapper-umhxW kGxnNB rponsive-asset SummaryItemRponsiveAsset-hjGIGg bDvSkO summary-em__image"><div data-tt="aspect-rat-ntaer" class="AspectRatContaer-bJHpJz ktcjQn"><div class="aspect-rat--overlay-ntaer"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa SummaryItemRponsiveAsset-hjGIGg bDvSkO summary-em__image rponsive-image"><noscript><source media="(max-width: 767px)" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w" siz="100vw"/><source media="(m-width: 768px)" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w" siz="100vw"/><img alt="Enchanted" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src="></noscript></picture></div></div></span></a></div><div class="SummaryItemContent-eiDYMl XMZX summary-em__ntent"><div class="RubricWrapper-dKmCNX kImuKS bric bric--disvery SummaryItemRubric-dguGKN lapGFj summary-em__bric"><span class="RubricName-fVtemz cLxcNi">Profil</span></div><a class="SummaryItemHedLk-civM dVrbhU summary-em-trackg__hed-lk summary-em__hed-lk" data-ponent-type="recirc-river" data-recirc-id="em-hed-2" data-recirc-pattern="summary-em" href="/magaze/2008/09/01/enchanted" target="_self"><div class="SummaryItemHedBase-hiFYpQ fzzTdh summary-em__hed" data-ttid="SummaryItemHed">Enchanted</div></a><div class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ SummaryItemDek-CRfsi iUEiRd kxnNhB jDyfzW summary-em__k">The transformatn of Marc Jabs.</div><div class="SummaryItemByleWrapper-boCfbi cuRXdL summary-em__byle-date-in"><div class="SummaryItemBaseByle-fFbXkY cgDBtc summary-em__byle"><div class="summary-em__byle__ntent"><div data-ttid="BylWrapper" class="BylWrapper-KIudk irTIfE byl"><p class="ByleWrapper-jWHrLH dSEWiO byle byl__byle" data-ttid="ByleWrapper" emProp="thor" emType="><span emProp="name" class="ByleNamWrapper-jbHncj fuDQVo"><span data-ttid="ByleName" class="ByleName-kwmrLn cYaBaU byle__name"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BylePreamble-iJolpQ iUEiRd jslZfG gnILss byle__preamble">By </span>Ariel 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