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class="ContentHearWrapper-clujbs cYTwve ntent-hear article__ntent-hear"><div data-ttid="ContentHearContaer" class="ContentHearContaer-cGKRbE hCCDaZ"><div class="ContentHearHedAccredatnWrapper-GFiQf cDNVlV"><div data-ttid="ContentHearTleBlockWrapper" class="ContentHearTleBlockWrapper-cjmSKp hbWJLs"><div data-ttid="ContentHearRubric" class="ContentHearRubricBlock-LmpbT bHSyYn"><div data-ttid="ContentHearRubricDateBlock" class="ContentHearRubricDateBlock-kAQcZP fTFWxD"><div class="RubricWrapper-dKmCNX dFwgPI bric ContentHearRubricContaer-eTudtt iRsSlw"><span class="RubricName-fVtemz cLxcNi">Inspiratn</span></div></div></div><h1 data-ttid="ContentHearHed" class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ ContentHearHed-NCyCC iUEiRd lnnhgD gydgrM">How Chengdu Beme Cha’s Most Inclive Cy</h1></div><div class="ContentHearAccredatn-lfctVB etVsnJ ntent-hear__accredatn" data-ttid="ContentHearAccredatn"><div class="ContentHearDek-bIqFFZ eA-dOpL">The laid-back Che cy is a haven of openns.</div><div class="ContentHearByle-kmPyCa emiglw"><div class="ContentHearByleContent-dpPmNn DRFq"><div data-ttid="BylWrapper" class="BylWrapper-KIudk irTIfE byl ContentHearByl-cZqgyJ bHLeKI"><p class="ByleWrapper-jWHrLH cleXoH byle byl__byle" data-ttid="ByleWrapper" emProp="thor" emType="><span emProp="name" class="ByleNamWrapper-jbHncj fuDQVo"><span data-ttid="ByleName" class="ByleName-kwmrLn gsLuGA byle__name"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BylePreamble-iJolpQ iUEiRd jyeccG dttFsx byle__preamble">By </span><a class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BaseLk-eNWuiM ByleLk-gEnFiw iUEiRd dSSAlR dKMOIT bOwDHT byle__name-lk button" href="/ntributors/mark-ellwood">Mark Ellwood</a></span></span></p></div><time data-ttid="ContentHearPublishDate" dateTime="2018-06-13T08:00:00-04:00" class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ ContentHearPublishDate-eIBicG iUEiRd keFnUt PVAIn">June 13, 2018</time></div></div><div class="SocialInsWrapper-hKMEXV ffgPVr social-ins social-ins--standard 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viewBox="-12.75 -10.5 35 35" fill="none" xmlns=" bookmarkSiBarLabel="New!"><tle>Save this</tle><path fill-le="evenodd" clip-le="evenodd" d="M0 0h9.588v14.345L4.794 11.46 0 14.345V0zm.673.673v12.482l4.12-2.48 4.122 2.48V.673H.673z" fill="#FFF"></path></svg></div></a></li></ul></div></div><div class="StickyBoxPlaceholr-grPmrg dxAvXx"></div></div></asi></hear></div><div data-attribute-verso-pattern="article-body" class="ArticlePageContentBackGround-cNiFNN kAwnHf article-body__ntent"><div class="ArticlePageChunksContent-etcMtP bwyLBj"><div data-ttid="ArticlePageChunks" class="ArticlePageChunks-fLyCVG eOdfIs"><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK kHBDeH grid grid-margs grid-ems-2 ArticlePageChunksGrid-hfxa bjczjj grid-layout--adrail narrow wi-adrail"><div class="GridItem-buujkM stRKV grid--em grid-layout__ntent"><div class="BodyWrapper-kufPGa bmbVTi body body__ntaer article__body" data-journey-hook="client-ntent" data-ttid="BodyWrapper"><div class="body__ner-ntaer"><p>In June last year, more than 100 lols and expats gathered on the lawn of the <a href=">Temple Hoe</a>, Chengdu’s most stylish hotel, to celebrate the marriage of an amic-turned-entreprenr om the U.S. and a Sichuan-born lawyer. The gutlist didn’t que end there though: 150,000 more people watched the service live streamed by Yu Shi, an LGBTQ+ activist and enthiastic gut.</p><p>Shi also happens to own the cy’s most famo lbian bar, Moonflower, which she opened 2002. The low-roofed hut has a few stools and chairs on s pat; a large, rabow-lored half-moon on s sign is the only ht the place is anythg other than another of the cy’s famo tea rooms. It was there that the happy uple, Pat Tietgens and Michelle Zhang, first met. Same-sex marriage isn’t legally regnized Cha—the uple’s official paperwork was filed stati—but the ceremony drew such attentn bee was the first, high-profile lbian weddg the untry.</p><div><div class="ConsumerMarketgUnThemedWrapper-iUTMTf jssHut nsumer-marketg-un nsumer-marketg-un--article-mid-ntent" role="prentatn" aria-hidn="te"><div class="nsumer-marketg-un__slot nsumer-marketg-un__slot--article-mid-ntent nsumer-marketg-un__slot---ntent"></div><div class="journey-un"></div></div></div><p>In fact, the first wily reported gay marriage <a href=">Cha</a> also took place Chengdu. That was eight years ago, when archect Zeng Anquan married his partner, ary vet Pan Wenjie. It’s no cince that both same-sex ceremoni occurred here: Chengdu, the pal of Sichuan provce, has bee the Middle Kgdom’s unofficial LGBTQ+ pal. So much so, that ’s <a href=">earned the soubriquet Gaydu</a> among Che lennials. Demographic data Cha is notorly hard to source or verify, but most anecdotal evince suggts the proportn of lols who intify as LGBTQ+ is markedly higher than larger ci like Shanghai or <a href=">Beijg</a>.</p><div class="Contaer-bkChBi byNLHx"></div><p>Internatnally, of urse, the cy is renowned for panda-spottg (80 percent of the 1,800 or so giant pandas still livg the wild are the Sichuan provce, and major rearch facili are based Chengdu) as well as s <a href=">food</a>—fiery Sichuane stapl, such as mapo tofu and kung pao chicken, form the backbone of many Che rtrant men the U.S.. Domtilly, Chengdu is also synonymo wh a slow-paced liftyle pared wh the eic day to day of Shanghai and the buttoned-up burecrats who live Beijg. Lols are renowned for spendg hours idlg over a cup or two at Chengdu’s numero teaho.</p><figure class="CneVioEmbedFigure-kCfJjN hdJOda e-vio-embed"><div data-ttid="script-ntaer"></div></figure><p>A healthy work/life balance is a signature of the Chengdune; and that laid-back approach is prent every aspect of life there—cludg social mor. It nfers on the lols a reputatn for tolerance that has helped s LGBTQ+ populatn feel more fortable beg open and out. “It’s the liftyle here—people don’t work so hard, they’re outdoors all the time,” says Kurt Macher, the openly gay general manager of the Temple Hoe. “People look at you here, they se and they don’t re. I see many gay Che upl walkg down by the river, hand hand, and I’ve never seen that Beijg, Shanghai, or even Hong Kong.”</p></div></div></div><div class="GridItem-buujkM fVLMby grid--em grid-layout__asi"><div class="StickyBoxWrapper-jfYB kNleGZ sticky-box"><div class="StickyBoxPrimary-dzWDWL cdhYoN sticky-box__primary"><div class="Contaer-bkChBi byNLHx"></div><div class="AdWrapper-dQtivb fZrssQ ad ad--rail"><div class="ad__slot ad__slot--rail" data-no-id="0fw3c"></div></div><div class="ConsumerMarketgUnThemedWrapper-iUTMTf jssHut nsumer-marketg-un nsumer-marketg-un--display-rail" role="prentatn" aria-hidn="te"><div class="nsumer-marketg-un__slot nsumer-marketg-un__slot--display-rail"></div><div class="journey-un"></div></div></div><div class="StickyBoxPlaceholr-grPmrg dxAvXx"></div></div></div></div><div class="RowWrapper-UmqTg HEhan full-bleed-ad row-mid-ntent-ad"><div class="StickyMidContentAdWrapper-fSBzwl drzyIa ad-stickymidntent"><div class="AdWrapper-dQtivb fZrssQ ad ad--mid-ntent should-hold-space"><div class="ad__slot ad__slot--mid-ntent" data-no-id="d2srqm"></div></div></div></div><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK kHBDeH grid grid-margs grid-ems-2 ArticlePageChunksGrid-hfxa bjczjj grid-layout--adrail narrow wi-adrail"><div class="GridItem-buujkM stRKV grid--em grid-layout__ntent"><div class="BodyWrapper-kufPGa bmbVTi body body__ntaer article__body" data-journey-hook="client-ntent" data-ttid="BodyWrapper"><div class="body__ner-ntaer"><p>Wei Lai is an openly gay profsor at a lol mic llege who was born and brought up Chengdu. “Everybody Cha knows that Chengdu is a very famo gay cy. It’s much easier to be gay here than Shanghai or Beijg. There’s no judgment. Gay men n hold hands and no one r,” he says. “In Beijg, people would re.”</p><div class="AdWrapper-dQtivb fZrssQ ad ad---ntent"><div class="ad__slot ad__slot---ntent" data-no-id="az33of"></div></div><p>Certaly, the lols’ reputatn for tolerance has been a ccial factor creatg such a thrivg LGBTQ+ scene, but quirks of geography have been val, too. Far om Beijg, Chengdu has always received ls scty om the ernment—whether now or the Imperial era. Put another way, the cy uld crib an unofficial motto om another, glzier cy here the U.S.: <em>What happens Chengdu, stays Chengdu</em>.</p><asi aria-hidn="te" class="PullQuoteEmbedWrapper-sc-EoVjf fQbAzo"><div class="PullQuoteDerativeBorr-sc-iUyOLj gXJTTx"></div><div class="PullQuoteEmbedContent-sc-kTcfhx ffvcRI"><p>“Everybody Cha knows that Chengdu is a very famo gay cy. It’s much easier to be gay here than Shanghai or Beijg. There’s no judgment."</p></div></asi><p>While Cha crimalized homosexualy 1997, and removed om an official list of mental disorrs four years later, taboos still persist, pecially more ral areas. Chengdu, meanwhile, is one of the few major ci the wt of Cha, and as such has long been a draw for those throughout Sichuan who felt ls fortable, perhaps, their village or town. Michelle Zhang, 38, was one of them. “I moved here when I was 19 or 20 years old, and I uld immediately feel the difference,” she says. “Chengdu people are jt more relaxed and iendly.”</p><div data-attr-viewport-monor="le-recirc" class="le-recirc-wrapper le-recirc-observer-target-1 viewport-monor-anchor"></div><p>The st of livg is cheaper here, too—rents n be 30 percent lower than the east ast hubs, which keeps the populatn younger and so likely more open-md. Take Chengdu’s mic scene, which has bee the heartland of an emergg Che language hip hop and trap culture, spearhead by the lik of the <a data-offer-url=" class="external-lk" data-event-click="{"element":"ExternalLk","outgogURL":"" href=" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Higher Brothers</a>, a quartet of lol rappers. There’s also a thrivg WeWork-like shared office ncept, Base & Co, for lol lennial creativ si the 339 Shoppg Mall unr the Wt Pearl TV tower—and clus a uple of nightclubs, wh a typil Chengdune emphasis on enjoyg life.</p><p>But Zhang believ that history has played a part, too. In the 17th century, Chengdu was the pal of a rebel kgdom, led by Zhang Zianzhong. When the Manchu army om Beijg bore down on him, he massacred swath of lols, leavg the cy virtually unhabed when was reptured by Imperial forc. The Emperor then orred cizens om elsewhere the untry to move there and rebuild Chengdu. It created a classic meltg pot atmosphere that weled, and assiated, anyone.</p><div data-ttid="feature-large-llout" class="CalloutFeatureLargeWrapper-cGjDsT fVeqfY"><div class="ContentCardEmbedWrapper-kULtsE iGAJsG ntent-rd-embed ntent-rd-embed--stacked" data-ttid="ContentCardEmbedWrapper"><div class="ContentCardEmbedImage-iwqgVw jlIubp ntent-rd-embed__image" data-ttid="ContentCardEmbedImage"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW jvZaPI rponsive-asset"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa rponsive-image"><img alt="Image may nta: Plant, Food, and Pizza" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src=" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w" siz="100vw"/></picture></span></div><div class="ContentCardEmbedInfo-bDftKl bGnSrq"><div class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ ContentCardEmbedHed-kJVPGC iUEiRd lcmQdU cewqFA ntent-rd-embed__hed" data-ttid="ContentCardEmbedHed"><a class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BaseLk-eNWuiM ContentCardEmbedHedLk-eXLwe iUEiRd lcmQdU hXISKO eFUKSb ntent-rd-embed__hed-lk" href="/story/street-food-l-you-dont-know-youre-breakg--asia" data-ttid="ContentCardEmbedHedLk">12 Street Food Rul You Don't Know You're Breakg Asia</a></div></div></div></div><p>“Historilly, ’s been a cy of outsirs—’s like the Gold Rh <a href=">California</a>, when all the outsirs me ,” adds Tietgens, Zhang’s wife. She is om Northern California herself, but first moved to Chengdu while still at universy, keen to study the LGBTQ+ populatn as part of her gree. “That outsir culture is part of the lol inty. You learn to be more flexible how you view people.”</p><p>The social scene many high profile LGBTQ+-iendly ci tend to skew male, and Chengdu there are certaly gay-foced venu—take nightclub <a data-offer-url=" class="external-lk" data-event-click="{"element":"ExternalLk","outgogURL":"" href=" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Max</a>, and the Thursday’s weekly Pri party at <a data-offer-url=" class="external-lk" data-event-click="{"element":"ExternalLk","outgogURL":"" href=" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Unrground bar</a>, n by openly gay English expat Gary Daniels. But Chengdu is unual that there is also a vibrant and visible lbian muny, fillg bars like Queen Bee and Yu Shi’s Moonflower (though the latter has recently, and unexpectedly, been threatened wh closure). It's a legacy of the cy’s reputatn as beg ls macho and patriarchal than many Che ci, acrdg to Tietgens, whose this explored this topic. She pots out that would be appealg to women lookg for a safe, female-foced space: “Chengdu is famo for betiful women wh a quick temper, who wear the pants. Men here tend to be ls domant—straight men aren’t ashamed to ok for their wiv at home,” she says.</p><p>More recently, Tietgens says, pop culture tervened via a female, fan favore nttant on Cha’s <em>The Voice</em>-style sgg ntt was om Chengdu. Though not openly gay, onle chatter about her viss to lbian bars and her var girliends was wispread. “I’ve heard people say, ‘Oh, wow bee of this sger om Chengdu, that’s why I want to go there.’”</p><p>Though she and her wife are now livg the U.S., Tietgens lov her adopted home cy. “Shanghai and Beijg have a lot of outsi fluence on the lol culture,” she says. “But Chengdu seems to have s own way of advotg for gays and lbians that is totally, thentilly Che.”</p></div></div></div><div class="GridItem-buujkM fVLMby grid--em grid-layout__asi"><div class="StickyBoxWrapper-jfYB jxBcTH sticky-box"><div class="StickyBoxPrimary-dzWDWL cdhYoN sticky-box__primary"><div class="AdWrapper-dQtivb fZrssQ ad ad--rail"><div class="ad__slot ad__slot--rail" data-no-id="vlfzp"></div></div><div class="ConsumerMarketgUnThemedWrapper-iUTMTf jssHut nsumer-marketg-un nsumer-marketg-un--display-rail" role="prentatn" aria-hidn="te"><div class="nsumer-marketg-un__slot 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class="BylWrapper-KIudk irTIfE byl OverlaySummaryItemByl-bogcUE fjwtNK"><p class="ByleWrapper-jWHrLH eXckhO byle byl__byle" data-ttid="ByleWrapper" emProp="thor" emType="><span emProp="name" class="ByleNamWrapper-jbHncj fuDQVo"><span data-ttid="ByleName" class="ByleName-kwmrLn cYaBaU byle__name"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BylePreamble-iJolpQ iUEiRd jyeccG gnILss byle__preamble">By </span>Cathy Erway</span></span></p></div></div></a></li><div class="AdWrapper-dQtivb fZrssQ ad ad--read-more"><div class="ad__slot ad__slot--read-more" data-no-id="ra0seo"></div></div><li class="RecircListTextOverlayItem-dLTGJZ cZQSMJ"><a class="OverlaySummaryItemWrapper-jydJgB eETcvP summary-em-trackg__image-lk" data-ponent-type="recirc-river" data-recirc-id="em-image-3" data-recirc-pattern="summary-em" href="><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW kGxnNB rponsive-asset OverlaySummaryItemRponsiveAsset-gAMhYK cOqLsu"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa OverlaySummaryItemRponsiveAsset-gAMhYK cOqLsu rponsive-image"><div data-tt="aspect-rat-ntaer" class="AspectRatContaer-bJHpJz jgsWEn"><div class="aspect-rat--overlay-ntaer"><noscript><source media="(max-width: 767px)" srcSet="" siz="100vw"/><source media="(m-width: 768px)" srcSet="" siz="100vw"/><img alt="The Last of the Embroired Breads of Mogaia, Greece" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src="></noscript></div></div></picture></span><div class="OverlaySummaryItemContent-ddGOWz fHZSgO"><div data-ttid="ClampWrapper" class="ClampWrapper-kZxfkB hTTNGO clamp"><div class="ClampContent-hilPkr jVhSBH"><div class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ OverlaySummaryItemHed-cljMtD iUEiRd epTlSA cRpZRn">The Last of the Embroired Breads of Mogaia, Greece</div></div></div><div data-ttid="BylWrapper" class="BylWrapper-KIudk irTIfE byl OverlaySummaryItemByl-bogcUE fjwtNK"><p class="ByleWrapper-jWHrLH eXckhO byle byl__byle" data-ttid="ByleWrapper" emProp="thor" emType="><span emProp="name" class="ByleNamWrapper-jbHncj fuDQVo"><span data-ttid="ByleName" class="ByleName-kwmrLn cYaBaU byle__name"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BylePreamble-iJolpQ iUEiRd jyeccG gnILss byle__preamble">By </span>Rebec Hall</span></span></p></div></div></a></li><li class="RecircListTextOverlayItem-dLTGJZ cZQSMJ"><a class="OverlaySummaryItemWrapper-jydJgB eETcvP summary-em-trackg__image-lk" data-ponent-type="recirc-river" data-recirc-id="em-image-4" data-recirc-pattern="summary-em" href="><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW kGxnNB rponsive-asset OverlaySummaryItemRponsiveAsset-gAMhYK cOqLsu"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa OverlaySummaryItemRponsiveAsset-gAMhYK cOqLsu rponsive-image"><div data-tt="aspect-rat-ntaer" class="AspectRatContaer-bJHpJz jgsWEn"><div class="aspect-rat--overlay-ntaer"><noscript><source media="(max-width: 767px)" srcSet="" siz="100vw"/><source media="(m-width: 768px)" srcSet="" siz="100vw"/><img alt="How the Mil Choon Paan Vans of Sri Lanka Beme an Unlikely Symbol of Hope" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src="></noscript></div></div></picture></span><div class="OverlaySummaryItemContent-ddGOWz fHZSgO"><div data-ttid="ClampWrapper" class="ClampWrapper-kZxfkB hTTNGO clamp"><div class="ClampContent-hilPkr jVhSBH"><div class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ OverlaySummaryItemHed-cljMtD iUEiRd epTlSA cRpZRn">How the Mil Choon Paan Vans of Sri Lanka Beme an Unlikely Symbol of Hope</div></div></div><div data-ttid="BylWrapper" class="BylWrapper-KIudk irTIfE byl OverlaySummaryItemByl-bogcUE fjwtNK"><p class="ByleWrapper-jWHrLH eXckhO byle byl__byle" data-ttid="ByleWrapper" emProp="thor" emType="><span emProp="name" class="ByleNamWrapper-jbHncj fuDQVo"><span data-ttid="ByleName" class="ByleName-kwmrLn cYaBaU byle__name"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BylePreamble-iJolpQ iUEiRd jyeccG gnILss byle__preamble">By </span>Vidya 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class="ClampWrapper-kZxfkB hTTNGO clamp"><div class="ClampContent-hilPkr jVhSBH"><div class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ OverlaySummaryItemHed-cljMtD iUEiRd epTlSA cRpZRn">The Bt Thgs to Do Nosara, Costa Ri's Most Idyllic Surfg Getaway</div></div></div><div data-ttid="BylWrapper" class="BylWrapper-KIudk irTIfE byl OverlaySummaryItemByl-bogcUE fjwtNK"><p class="ByleWrapper-jWHrLH eXckhO byle byl__byle" data-ttid="ByleWrapper" emProp="thor" emType="><span emProp="name" class="ByleNamWrapper-jbHncj fuDQVo"><span data-ttid="ByleName" class="ByleName-kwmrLn cYaBaU byle__name"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BylePreamble-iJolpQ iUEiRd jyeccG gnILss byle__preamble">By </span>Brent Rose</span></span></p></div></div></a></li><li class="RecircListTextOverlayItem-dLTGJZ cZQSMJ"><a class="OverlaySummaryItemWrapper-jydJgB eETcvP summary-em-trackg__image-lk" data-ponent-type="recirc-river" data-recirc-id="em-image-6" data-recirc-pattern="summary-em" href="><span 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irTIfE byl OverlaySummaryItemByl-bogcUE fjwtNK"><p class="ByleWrapper-jWHrLH eXckhO byle byl__byle" data-ttid="ByleWrapper" emProp="thor" emType="><span emProp="name" class="ByleNamWrapper-jbHncj fuDQVo"><span data-ttid="ByleName" class="ByleName-kwmrLn cYaBaU byle__name"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BylePreamble-iJolpQ iUEiRd jyeccG gnILss byle__preamble">By </span>Petra Darrah</span></span></p></div></div></a></li></ul></div></asi></div></div><div class="RowWrapper-UmqTg HEhan"><div class="TaboolaWrapper-hMVdpE iYfBhy"><div class="TaboolaWidgetWrapper-egPIjc hkSrgt TaboolaWidget-eUSdED hQCCRa" data-ttid="TaboolaWidgetWrapper"><div class="TaboolaWidgetContent-iBEQTO eXroXG TABOOLA" id="taboola-below-article-thumbnails---f" data-ttid="TaboolaWidgetContent"></div></div></div></div><div class="RowWrapper-UmqTg HEhan"><div class="AdWrapper-dQtivb fZrssQ ad ad--footer should-hold-space"><div class="ad__slot ad__slot--footer" 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