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This is an dtry profoundly shaped by multiple generatns of LGBTQIA+ signers — om a notable number of post-war gay uturiers cludg Christian Dr and Yv Sat Lrent to visnari such as Rudi Gernreich, Willi Smh, Roy Halston and Stephen Burrows.

Photography Getty ImagAmong the roster of major signers, enfant terrible Jean Pl Gltier is notable for his ncerted adoptn and celebratn of queer athetics, om placg men skirts 1985 to repeatedly drawg on the homoerotic motif of the Ge-que mcly marière (sailor). Maybe I was a martyr for homosexualy when I was six. Back 2013, Karl Lagerfeld sent two bris hand hand down the nway to nclu his uture llectn, the signer nonchalantly statg was a gture support of gay marriage France, a law which was passed later that same Simons sprg/summer 2017Raf Simons menswear sprg/summer 2017.

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Fabric beme a movg nvas, the imag rangg om homoerotic close-ups to rmal portras. His tumn/wter 2017 llectn was no exceptn, featurg sequed rabows and a beard leather daddy named Frankie wearg a T-shirt emblazoned wh the words, “Why be blue when you n be gay!

However, Christopher Bailey’s fal farewell llectn for Burberry formed an earnt paean to the LGBTQIA+ muny: acknowledgg Bailey’s own gay, workg-class roots, and heraldg the potential of a new generatn of queer creativ. For her sprg/summer 2018 show, she provid an acpanyg programme prised of readg material cludg Hilton Als’s say on love, legacy and queer Black art tled Jam Baldw/Jim Brown and the Children, imag om The Homoerotic Photography of Carl Van Vechten by Anatole France and Jam Smalls, and a poem by Essex Hemphill.

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