There's A Gay Tom Of Fland Porno Stashed In Your Wardrobe</tle><meta name="tle" ntent="There's A Gay Tom Of Fland Porno Stashed In Your Wardrobe" /><meta name="scriptn" ntent="As JW Anrson's latt llab recs the late and great Tom Of Fland, the rporate takeover of the rabow flag has been outbid by rnal ge lerature" /><meta name="keywords" ntent /><meta property="og:type" ntent="webse" /><meta name="theme-lor" ntent="#000000" /><lk href="/_assets/sign-tokens/quire/static/imag/" rel="in" /><meta property="og:se_name" ntent="Esquire" /><meta name="fb:app_id" ntent="1643411472613830" property="fb:app_id" /><meta name="article:publisher" ntent=" property="article:publisher" /><meta name="twter:se" ntent="@EsquireUK" /><meta name="google-se-verifitn" ntent="1vf5i9wM7chlCFc_0XI_e-oCfDf4sEvp32sTGKokQ" /><meta property="og:tle" ntent="There's A Gay Porno Stashed In Your Wardrobe: The History Behd Pri 2020's Bt Collab" /><meta property="og:scriptn" ntent="As the rporate takeover of the Pri flag ntu, JW Anrson's latt llab – and menswear – looks to the unsanised rnal visn of Tom Of Fland" /><meta name="robots" ntent="max-image-preview:large,max-snippet:-1,max-vio-preview:30" /><lk rel="apple-touch-in" href="/_assets/sign-tokens/quire/static/imag/" /><meta property="og:image" ntent="" /><meta property="og:image:width" ntent="1200" /><meta property="og:image:height" ntent="600" /><meta name="thumbnail" ntent="" /><meta name="" ntent="" /><meta name="" ntent=" /><meta name="twter:image" ntent="" /><meta ntent=" property="og:url" /><meta name="to-publish" ntent="timely" /><meta property="og:type" ntent="article" /><meta name="twter:rd" ntent="summary_large_image" /><meta name="article:opn" property="article:opn" /><meta ntent="Style" property="article:sectn" /><meta ntent="2020-06-30T16:59:00Z" property="article:modified_time" /><meta ntent="2020-06-30T07:00:00Z" property="article:published_time" /><meta name="sailth.excerpt" ntent="In 1939, a young Fnish stunt by the name of Too Laaksonen had a secret. 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huh8md">{display:none;}{paddg:0.25rem;ntent:">";}</style><li emProp="emListElement" emSpe emType=" class="css-huh8md e9l0kn01"><a emProp="em" href="//style/a32942134/pri-month-tom-of-fland-menswear/" data-vars-ga-ux-element="Breadcmbs" data-vars-ga-ll-to-actn="There's A Gay Porno Stashed In Your Wardrobe: The History Behd Pri 2020's Bt Collab" data-vars-ga-outbound-lk=" class="e9l0kn00 css-10asp0m e1c1bym14"><span emProp="name">There's A Gay Porno Stashed In Your Wardrobe: The History Behd Pri 2020's Bt Collab</span></a><meta emProp="posn" ntent="2" /></li></ol></nav><style data-emotn="css g4r5va">{font-fay:Glanz,Glanz-fallback,Tim,Serif;font-weight:normal;grid-lumn:1/-1;marg-bottom:0.9375rem;marg-top:0.9375rem;}@media(max-width: 48rem){{font-size:2rem;le-height:1.25;}}@media(m-width: 48rem){{font-size:2.625rem;le-height:1.1;}}@media(m-width: 64rem){{font-size:3.125rem;le-height:1.1;}}@media(m-width: 73.75rem){{font-size:3.37499rem;le-height:1.1;}}</style><h1 class="css-g4r5va exadjwu10"><span aria-hidn="te" class="css-0 eagam8p0"></span>There's A Gay Porno Stashed In Your Wardrobe: The History Behd Pri 2020's Bt Collab<span aria-hidn="te" class="css-0 eagam8p1"></span></h1><style data-emotn="css 2qf7xf">{lor:#515150;font-fay:Lsanne,Lsanne-fallback,Arial,sans-serif;font-weight:normal;marg-bottom:0.625rem;}@media(max-width: 48rem){{font-size:1.0625rem;le-height:1.2;}}@media(m-width: 48rem){{font-size:1.3125rem;le-height:1.2;}}@media(m-width: 64rem){{font-size:1.3125rem;le-height:1.3;}} a{-webk-text-ratn:unrle;text-ratn:unrle;text-ratn-thickns:0.0625rem;text-ratn-lor:#FF3A30;text-unrle-offset:0.25rem;lor:#000000;-webk-transn:all 0.3s ease--out;transn:all 0.3s ease--out;} a:hover{lor:#595959;text-ratn-lor:borr-lk-body-hover;}</style><div class="css-2qf7xf exadjwu8"><p>As the rporate takeover of the Pri flag ntu, JW Anrson's latt llab – and menswear – looks to the unsanised rnal visn of Tom Of Fland<br /></p></div><style data-emotn="css 18k4ks7">{lor:#161616;font-fay:Lsanne,Lsanne-fallback,Arial,sans-serif;letter-spacg:0.02rem;marg-bottom:0.625rem;paddg-right:0.3125rem;text-transform:upperse;}@media(max-width: 48rem){{font-size:0.70003rem;le-height:1.4;}}@media(m-width: 40.625rem){{font-size:0.70003rem;le-height:1.3;}} span{font-fay:Lsanne,Lsanne-fallback,Arial,sans-serif;letter-spacg:0rem;text-transform:palize;}@media(max-width: 48rem){ span{le-height:2rem;font-size:0.875rem;}}@media(m-width: 48rem){ span{le-height:2rem;font-size:0.875rem;}}@media(m-width: 64rem){ span{le-height:2rem;font-size:0.875rem;}}</style><div class="css-18k4ks7 exadjwu7"><style data-emotn="css 1eqkg5m">{lor:#161616;font-fay:Lsanne,Lsanne-fallback,Arial,sans-serif;font-style:normal;letter-spacg:0.02rem;paddg-right:0.3125rem;text-transform:upperse;-webk-text-stroke:0.005rem;}@media(max-width: 48rem){{font-size:0.70003rem;le-height:1.4;}}@media(m-width: 40.625rem){{font-size:0.70003rem;le-height:1.3;}}</style><addrs class="css-1eqkg5m ehvvd9m2"><style data-emotn="css 19e0noj">{lor:#161616;font-fay:Lsanne,Lsanne-fallback,Arial,sans-serif;letter-spacg:0.02rem;paddg-right:0.3125rem;text-transform:upperse;-webk-text-stroke:0.005rem;}@media(max-width: 48rem){{font-size:0.70003rem;le-height:1.4;}}@media(m-width: 40.625rem){{font-size:0.70003rem;le-height:1.3;}}</style><span class="css-19e0noj ehvvd9m1"><style data-emotn="css 1sa04t">{borr-radi:50%;vertil-align:middle;marg-right:0.3125rem;object-f:ver;}</style><img src="" alt="Headshot of Murray Clark" tle="Headshot of Murray Clark" width="40" height="40" dg="async" fetchPrry="high" class=" css-1sa04t ehvvd9m0" />By <style data-emotn="css 7l5upj">{-webk-text-ratn:unrle;text-ratn:unrle;text-ratn-thickns:0.0625rem;text-ratn-lor:her;text-unrle-offset:0.25rem;lor:her;-webk-transn:all 0.3s ease--out;transn:all 0.3s ease--out;}{lor:#595959;text-ratn-lor:borr-lk-body-hover;}</style><a href="//thor/219168/murray-clark/" class="css-7l5upj e1c1bym14">Murray Clark</a></span><style data-emotn="css 1bcsdhu">{display:le-block;font-fay:Lsanne,Lsanne-fallback,Arial,sans-serif;marg-left:0.625rem;text-transform:upperse;}@media(max-width: 48rem){{font-size:0.75rem;le-height:1.3;}}@media(m-width: 48rem){{font-size:0.75rem;le-height:1.3;}}@media(m-width: 64rem){{font-size:0.75rem;le-height:1.3;}}</style><time class="css-1bcsdhu exadjwu6">Published: 30 June 2020</time></addrs></div></div></div></div></hear><style data-emotn="css k008qs">{display:-webk-box;display:-webk-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;}</style><div class="css-k008qs ewisyje0"><style data-emotn="css 7ce51e">{marg-bottom:0.9375rem;posn:relative;}@media(max-width: 64rem){{max-width:lc(100vw - (1rem * 2));marg-left:1rem;marg-right:1rem;} .e152u5os0{width:100vw;marg-left:lc(-1 * 1rem);}}@media(m-width: 48rem) and (max-width: 61.25rem){{marg-left:to;marg-right:to;} .e152u5os0{width:100vw;marg-left:lc((100vw - (lc(20.625rem * 2 - 1rem) - 2 * 1rem)) / -2);}}@media(m-width: 61.25rem) and (max-width: 90rem){{max-width:lc(20.625rem * 2 - 1rem);marg-left:lc((100vw - lc(20.625rem * 2 - 1rem) - 1rem - 20.625rem) / 2);paddg-left:1rem;paddg-right:1rem;} .e152u5os0{width:100vw;marg-left:lc(lc((100vw - lc(20.625rem * 2 - 1rem) - 1rem - 20.625rem) / -2) - 1rem);}}@media(m-width: 90rem){{marg-left:lc((100vw - lc(20.625rem * 2 - 1rem)) / 2);max-width:lc(20.625rem * 2 - 1rem);paddg-left:1rem;paddg-right:1rem;} .e152u5os0{width:100vw;marg-left:lc(lc((100vw - lc(20.625rem * 2 + 1rem)) / -2) - lc(2 * 1rem));}[data-has-sponsor] {marg-left:lc((100vw - lc(20.625rem * 2 - 1rem)) / 4);marg-right:lc((100vw - lc(20.625rem * 2 - 1rem)) / 4);}}</style><div class="standard-ntaer ntent-ntaer article-ntaer css-7ce51e ewisyje3"><style data-emotn="css woto36">{font-fay:Charter,Geia,Tim,Serif;font-size:1.1875rem;le-height:1.6;paddg-left:0rem;paddg-right:0rem;posn:relative;}@media(m-width: 48rem){{paddg-left:3.5rem;paddg-right:3.5rem;}}@media(m-width: 48rem) and (max-width: 61.25rem){{max-width:45.25rem;marg-left:to;marg-right:to;}}@media(m-width: 61.25rem){{paddg-left:0rem;paddg-right:0rem;}}@media(m-width: 73.75rem) and (max-width: 100rem){{paddg-left:0rem;paddg-right:0rem;}}@media(m-width: 90rem){{paddg-left:0rem;paddg-right:0rem;}} em{font-style:alic;font-fay:Charter,Geia,Tim,Serif;} strong{font-fay:Charter,Geia,Tim,Serif;font-weight:bold;}{clear:both;ntent:" ";display:block;font-size:0.7rem;le-height:1.5rem;height:0rem;visibily:hidn;}</style><div class="article-body-ntent article-body standard-body-ntent css-woto36 ewisyje7"><style data-emotn="css am5pt0">{font-fay:Charter,Geia,Tim,Serif;font-size:1.1875rem;le-height:1.6;}{float:left;text-transform:upperse;font-weight:bold;marg-right:0.9375rem;marg-bottom:-0.625rem;marg-top:0;}{font-fay:Glanz,Glanz-fallback,Tim,Serif;font-size:6.25rem;font-weight:normal;le-height:0.75;marg-right:0;paddg:0.6rem 0.75rem 0 0;}@-moz-document url-prefix(){{marg-top:0.625rem;}}@media(max-width: 48rem){{marg-right:0.3125rem;}}@media(m-width: 64rem){{le-height:0.75;}} strong{font-fay:Charter,Geia,Tim,Serif;font-weight:bold;} em{font-style:alic;font-fay:Charter,Geia,Tim,Serif;}</style><p data-no-id="0" class="body-dropp css-am5pt0 et3p2gv0">In 1939, a young Fnish stunt by the name of Too Laaksonen had a secret. In-between class, the 19-year-old sketched what me to him dreams – the vivid, breathls on that shock our nscns when the sun ris – and soon assembled a small archive of <style data-emotn="css umdwtv">{-webk-text-ratn:unrle;text-ratn:unrle;text-ratn-thickns:.0625rem;text-ratn-lor:#FF3A30;text-unrle-offset:0.25rem;lor:her;-webk-transn:background 0.4s;transn:background 0.4s;background:lear-gradient(#ffffff, #ffffff 50%, #d5dbe3 50%, #d5dbe3);-webk-background-size:100% 200%;background-size:100% 200%;}{lor:#000000;text-ratn-lor:borr-lk-body-hover;-webk-background-posn:100% 100%;background-posn:100% 100%;}</style><a href=" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" data-vars-ga-outbound-lk=" data-vars-ga-ux-element="Hyperlk" data-vars-ga-ll-to-actn=""nghty drawgs"" class="body-lk css-umdwtv et3p2gv0">"nghty drawgs"</a>. The nghtit part beg an illegal one: those that me to the artist his REM-duced phoria were not young attractive women. They were attractive young men, so mcled and chiselled that they were barely ntaed their labourer's uniform, loaf-like hands firmly planted on the smalls of narrow backs, among other plac. And yet the dream was abptly cut short. As global nflict lled time on amia, the young Laaksonen was enlisted to fight right after the Wter War agast the USSR and served the Contuatn War durg WWII, and he stroyed all trac of his work. On the surface, the army was not so welg of such exprsn.</p><style data-emotn="css aeyldl">{font-fay:Charter,Geia,Tim,Serif;font-size:1.1875rem;le-height:1.6;} strong{font-fay:Charter,Geia,Tim,Serif;font-weight:bold;} em{font-style:alic;font-fay:Charter,Geia,Tim,Serif;}</style><p data-no-id="1" class="css-aeyldl et3p2gv0">It's likely you've never heard of Too Laaksonen. But you may've seen his work s purt form, and you've certaly seen the epochal wardrobe of Freddie Mercury, and the Village People, and every tweet that refers to a semi-famo handsome man as 'zaddy'. For Laaksonen is more famo by his pen name, a psdonym that me to fe several strands of gay culture before paddlg the mastream: Tom Of Fland.<br /></p><style data-emotn="css w4h092">{--data-embed-display:flex;-webk-align-ems:center;-webk-box-align:center;-ms-flex-align:center;align-ems:center;display:-webk-box;display:-webk-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;marg-bottom:0.9375rem;}@media(m-width: 20rem){{clear:both;marg-left:to;marg-right:to;width:100%;}}@media(m-width: 30rem){{clear:both;marg-left:to;marg-right:to;width:100%;}}@media(m-width: 40.625rem){{width:60%;marg-right:1rem;marg-left:0rem;float:left;clear:left;}}@media(m-width: 48rem){{width:60%;marg-right:1rem;marg-left:0rem;float:left;clear:left;}}@media(m-width: 64rem){{width:50%;marg-right:1rem;marg-left:0rem;float:left;clear:left;}}@media(m-width: 73.75rem){{width:50%;marg-right:1rem;marg-left:0rem;float:left;clear:left;}}@media(m-width: 75rem){{width:60%;marg-right:1rem;marg-left:0rem;float:left;clear:left;}}@media(m-width: 90rem){{width:60%;marg-right:1rem;marg-left:0rem;float:left;clear:left;}} a span{right:1rem;} img{width:to;height:85vh;} a{display:-webk-le-box;display:-webk-le-flex;display:-ms-le-flexbox;display:le-flex;posn:var(--posn, relative);} img:not(.ewcw41w1){display:block;width:100%;height:to;-webk-align-self:flex-start;-ms-flex-em-align:flex-start;align-self:flex-start;}</style><div size="large" data-embed="body-image" data-no-id="2" class="align-left size-large embed css-w4h092 e1xqj1sx4"><style data-emotn="css uwraif">{width:100%;display:-webk-le-box;display:-webk-le-flex;display:-ms-le-flexbox;display:le-flex;-webk-flex-directn:lumn;-ms-flex-directn:lumn;flex-directn:lumn;marg-left:to;marg-right:to;-webk-box-pack:center;-ms-flex-pack:center;-webk-jtify-ntent:center;jtify-ntent:center;}</style><div class="css-uwraif e1xqj1sx3"><img alt="jw anrson tom of fland pri" tle="JW Anrson Tom Of Fland Pri" loadg="lazy" width="500" height="850" dg="async" data-nimg="1" style="lor: transparent; width: 100%; height: to;" siz="100vw" srcSet=" 640w, 980w, 1120w, 1200w, 1920w" src="" class="css-0 exi4f7p0" /><style data-emotn="css 78jldq">{paddg-left:0rem;}</style><div class="css-78jldq e1xqj1sx2"><style data-emotn="css 8h7i7x">{width:0;m-width:100%;paddg-top:0.625rem;letter-spacg:0.02rem;font-fay:Lsanne,Lsanne-fallback,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:0.875rem;le-height:1.3;} em, i{font-fay:her;font-style:alic;}</style><div class="css-8h7i7x e1xqj1sx1">Tom Of Tland Tote (£430) at <a href=" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" class="css-umdwtv et3p2gv0"></a></div><style data-emotn="css 1am3yn9">{paddg-left:0rem;le-height:1;}</style><figptn class="css-1am3yn9 enfs9c50"><style data-emotn="css 1mcfn5x">{lor:#595959;font-fay:Lsanne,Lsanne-fallback,Arial,sans-serif;paddg-right:0.3125rem;}@media(max-width: 48rem){{font-size:0.70028rem;le-height:1.2;}}@media(m-width: 48rem){{font-size:0.70028rem;le-height:1.2;}}@media(m-width: 64rem){{font-size:0.75rem;le-height:1.3;}}</style><span class="css-1mcfn5x e6iqd2">JW Anrson</span></figptn></div></div></div><p data-no-id="3" class="css-aeyldl et3p2gv0">Jt recently, was Brish signer JW Anrson's turn to re-home Fland's landmark work to a limed edn llectn to ci wh Pri (another ever-important event placed on ice by <a href=" target="_blank" data-vars-ga-outbound-lk=" data-vars-ga-ux-element="Hyperlk" data-vars-ga-ll-to-actn="Covid-19" class="body-lk css-umdwtv et3p2gv0">Covid-19</a>), and a very important birthday (Tom would've been 100 this year). Anrson himself is a llector of the artist. Though this is no okie-cutter rabow-edged 'psule', or a knee-jerk signal to profs 'allyship' when so many brands fail to even make a ntributn to LGBTQ+ chari spe -optg the flag. This stuff isn't for the sanised Cibank float, eher. Upon felt tote bags and neoprene visors, Tom Of Fland's briga of burly men are dog what they've always done: tyg one another up, refg shirts, half-sg as mcl are grabbed and zippers undone. And parison to some other works, the are far tamer waters – though a ntuatn of the signer's penis keyrg is not for the pearl-clutcher, wh a Tom Of Flandifitn of studs and piercgs upon black leather, wh JW Anrson donatg 20 per cent of sal of the signature accsory all lours to <a href=" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" data-vars-ga-outbound-lk=" data-vars-ga-ux-element="Hyperlk" data-vars-ga-ll-to-actn="UK Black Pri" class="body-lk css-umdwtv et3p2gv0">UK Black Pri</a> and LGBTQ+ youth homels chary <a href=" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" data-vars-ga-outbound-lk=" data-vars-ga-ux-element="Hyperlk" data-vars-ga-ll-to-actn="Akt" class="body-lk css-umdwtv et3p2gv0">Akt</a>. </p><p data-no-id="4" class="css-aeyldl et3p2gv0">JW Anrson is one of the few homegrown Brish signers to mand a large fandom wh his own name. And this llectn, by very token of Anrson's brand pal, is a visible unter to the Disneyfied garb labels cynilly peddle. The are piec plucked om the rnal g when Pri began as a rt rponse to police raids of the gay-iendly Stonewall Inn. It's thentic, undoctored – even more so as queerns self only ever did exist on the g.</p><p data-no-id="5" class="css-aeyldl et3p2gv0">"Even as nversatns about sexualy and homosexualy were expandg the prs, gay materials only circulated on the g the mid-twentieth century. Most mastream discsn of homosexualy prented men as perverts or crimals; at bt, they were sad victims," says Dr Jt Bengry, a history lecturer at London's Goldsmhs, and urse nvenor of the universy's Queer History MA programme. "Men who wanted to fd gay materials uld do so pulp novels and unr-the-unter magaz, but none of this was mastream. However, the kds of physique magaz where Tom Of Fland's art was published had a wi distributn among gay men, surpassg by far the reach of activist publitns." This meant that Amerin tl like <em>Physique Pictorial</em> – an early proto-porn tle to which Fland ntributed – were a way to explore trsic sir unr the heavy cloud of natnal censorship. </p><style data-emotn="css 1xr0550">{--data-embed-display:flex;-webk-align-ems:center;-webk-box-align:center;-ms-flex-align:center;align-ems:center;clear:both;display:-webk-box;display:-webk-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;marg-bottom:0.9375rem;marg-left:to;marg-right:to;width:100%;}@media(m-width: 20rem){{marg:to lc(50% - 50vw) 0.9375rem;width:100vw;}}@media(m-width: 30rem){{marg:to lc(50% - 50vw) 0.9375rem;width:100vw;}}@media(m-width: 40.625rem){{marg:to lc(50% - 50vw) 0.9375rem;width:100vw;}}@media(m-width: 48rem){{marg:to lc(50% - 50vw) 0.9375rem;width:100vw;}}@media(m-width: 64rem){{width:100%;marg:0 to 0.9375rem;}}@media(m-width: 73.75rem){{width:100%;marg:0 to 0.9375rem;}}@media(m-width: 75rem){{width:100%;marg:0 to 0.9375rem;}}@media(m-width: 90rem){{width:100%;marg:0 to 0.9375rem;}} a span{right:1rem;} img{width:to;height:85vh;} a{display:-webk-le-box;display:-webk-le-flex;display:-ms-le-flexbox;display:le-flex;posn:var(--posn, relative);} img:not(.ewcw41w1){display:block;width:100%;height:to;-webk-align-self:flex-start;-ms-flex-em-align:flex-start;align-self:flex-start;}</style><div size="large" data-embed="body-image" data-no-id="6" class="align-center size-large embed css-1xr0550 e1xqj1sx4"><div class="css-uwraif e1xqj1sx3"><img alt="tom of fland pri jw anrson cdlp" tle="tom of fland pri jw anrson cdlp" loadg="lazy" width="981" height="641" dg="async" data-nimg="1" style="lor: transparent; width: 100%; height: to;" siz="100vw" srcSet=" 640w, 980w, 1120w, 1200w, 1920w" src="" class="css-0 exi4f7p0" /><style data-emotn="css fw50lw">@media(m-width: 20rem){{paddg-left:1rem;}}@media(m-width: 30rem){{paddg-left:1rem;}}@media(m-width: 40.625rem){{paddg-left:1rem;}}@media(m-width: 48rem){{paddg-left:1rem;}}@media(m-width: 64rem){{paddg-left:0rem;}}@media(m-width: 73.75rem){{paddg-left:0rem;}}@media(m-width: 75rem){{paddg-left:0rem;}}@media(m-width: 90rem){{paddg-left:0rem;}}</style><div class="css-fw50lw e1xqj1sx2"><div class="css-8h7i7x e1xqj1sx1">JW Anrson’s Tom Of Fland keyrg (left) and CDLP x Tom Of Fland Tanga Brief</div><figptn class="css-1am3yn9 enfs9c50"><span class="css-1mcfn5x e6iqd2">Tom Of Fland Foundatn, CDLP</span></figptn></div></div></div><p data-no-id="7" class="css-aeyldl et3p2gv0">What's more, Tom Of Fland's klg for the hyper-mascule helped shape gay men's perceptns of self, and those around them. "The image of gay men that domated mastream reprentatn at this time was the 'pansy' or the 'sissy'," says Bengry. "He was an object of ridicule and risn, a failed example of masculy. Tom Of Fland's art showed that men who sired other men uld be mascule, virile, and powerful – a rponse to a culture that so often told gay men they uld never be 'real men'."</p><p data-no-id="8" class="css-aeyldl et3p2gv0">So mascule are they, that Tom Of Fland's subjects veer on the cp of sexually-charged riture. Shoebox jaws aren't the exceptn; they're the le. Good looks are sential. Mcl are so big that chts prove almost Olympian, mythologil meatheads that openly and unashamedly dulge behavur that was only whispered about, keen to enjoy the palpable homoeroticism felt by men who spent months and months together isolatn. Tom Of Fland's subjects were soldiers, and loggers, and police officers: there to protect and serve (one another) a world that cried them. In theirs, 'real men' liked 'real men' too, and lighted rejectg the tradnal e of their ample virily. Undue pleasure, jt whout the nvenience of procreatn. </p><p data-no-id="9" class="css-aeyldl et3p2gv0">JW Anrson isn't the first to pull Tom Of Fland to menswear. While a charable <a href=" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" data-vars-ga-outbound-lk=" data-vars-ga-ux-element="Hyperlk" data-vars-ga-ll-to-actn="foundatn named after the artist" class="body-lk css-umdwtv et3p2gv0">foundatn named after the artist</a> promot and prerv erotic art a creative sense (sal of Anrson's llectn will raise funds for the anisatn too), Nordic textil outf Flayson pned the more playful imag to towels, tot and keyrgs, a motached tck driver wkg om a reflective bag charm. If you know, you know. Cult unrwear label CDLP also partnered wh the foundatn 2018, rultg a llab that was a ltle more direct, siphong a portn of proceeds to the foundatn. Barely-there briefs were plucked straight om the monochrome sketch of a textbook Tom Of Flanr, addn to jockstraps (a staple of gay pornography wh roots all-male sport). It was as close to naked as you'd get whout sheddg the tramark of the artist – which was the pot. "I almost never draw a pletely naked man, he has to have at least a pair of boots," Fland is well-quoted to havg said. "To me, a fully-drsed man is more erotic than a naked one. A naked man is, of urse betiful, but drs him black leather or a uniform – ah, then he is more than betiful. Then he is sexy." </p><div size="large" data-embed="body-image" data-no-id="10" class="align-center size-large embed css-1xr0550 e1xqj1sx4"><div class="css-uwraif e1xqj1sx3"><img alt="tom of fland pri" tle="Tom Of Fland Pri" loadg="lazy" width="1013" height="1336" dg="async" data-nimg="1" style="lor: transparent; width: 100%; height: to;" siz="100vw" srcSet=" 640w, 980w, 1120w, 1200w, 1920w" src="" class="css-0 exi4f7p0" /><div class="css-fw50lw e1xqj1sx2"><figptn class="css-1am3yn9 enfs9c50"><span class="css-1mcfn5x e6iqd2">TOM OF FINLAND, Untled, 1988, Graphe on paper, © 1988-2020 Tom of Fland Foundatn</span></figptn></div></div></div><p data-no-id="11" class="css-aeyldl et3p2gv0">Mcle alone did not make Tom Of Fland's brand. It was the clothg. Of urse, certa artefacts are still largely shackled to parts of gay cultur: black leather biker ps, for example, and police shirts so tight they pose an occupatnal hazard. We don't see them much heteronormative spac (which is why the paras of Pri are so important). But is there an element of Fland's rtoonish fixatn the <a href=" target="_blank" data-vars-ga-outbound-lk=" data-vars-ga-ux-element="Hyperlk" data-vars-ga-ll-to-actn="ever-shrkg cloth of Love Island" class="body-lk css-umdwtv et3p2gv0">ever-shrkg cloth of <em>Love Island</em></a>, of oversized glut crowbarred to suffotg nim? Of men that fawn and gh over the gas of their fellow gym goers? Is Tom Of Fland's refurbishment of masculy now a lead for men at large? And, are the oversized am of porn – heterosexual or otherwise – now the norm? It's temptg to nnect the dots.</p><p data-no-id="12" class="css-aeyldl et3p2gv0">In a muny historilly mired ep shame, Tom Of Fland tght many to be ferocly unashamed, to appropriate the uniforms of their opprsors to products of subculture, to out-male the men who told them they weren't enough. That shame endur. Homosexualy was still classed as a mental illns until 1981 Fland. And, hyper-masculy has bee somethg of an overarchg standard gay ialism: that to be any lser is to be sub-par, that to be 'straight passg' is a trophy. This nnot be solely placed at the door of Tom Of Fland, says Bengry. "Today, we might look at the imag ncerned that they rerce a 'masc4masc' culture that valu mp and ris feme gay and queer men, but the ntext of the 1950s and 1960s, Tom Of Fland's imag are erotic, playful and subversive."</p><div supprsHydratnWarng data-no-id="13" data-embed="pullquote" class="embed css-0 e9hzx6g0"><style data-emotn="css 1eiql25">{text-align:center;marg:0rem;paddg-top:0.9375rem;paddg-bottom:0.9375rem;}</style><blockquote class="css-1eiql25 e1pe3zr91"><style data-emotn="css ow0dpz">{borr:0.3125rem solid #FF3A30;borr-radi:100%;ntent:'';display:block;height:2.1875rem;left:50%;marg:-0.99rem to 0 -1.33rem;posn:absolute;width:2.1875rem;}</style><span aria-hidn="te" class="css-ow0dpz eagam8p0"></span><style data-emotn="css la9czl">{font-fay:Lsanne,Lsanne-fallback,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:1.625rem;le-height:1.2;marg:0rem;}@media(max-width: 48rem){{font-size:1.75rem;le-height:1.2;}}@media(m-width: 64rem){{font-size:2.375rem;le-height:1.2;}} b, strong{font-fay:her;font-weight:bold;} em, i{font-fay:her;font-style:alic;}{ntent:'＂';display:block;font-fay:Lsanne,Lsanne-fallback,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:3.4375rem;le-height:0.72;font-style:alic;paddg:0.3125rem 0.875rem 0 0;}</style><blockquote class="css-la9czl e1pe3zr90">Tom Of Fland's art showed that men who sired other men uld be mascule, virile, and powerful</blockquote><span aria-hidn="te" class="css-0 eagam8p1"></span></blockquote></div><p data-no-id="14" class="css-aeyldl et3p2gv0">Tom Of Fland's work isn't flawls. No work is, pecially as our wdow of progrsivism actually progrs to a larger, different visn. Nazi uniforms for example exist earlier piec, spired by Fland's time on the ont. The artist volly nmned s source, sayg "the whole Nazi philosophy, the racism and all that, is hateful to me, but of urse I drew them anyway – they had the sexit uniforms!" Which, self, is problematic, though Tom Of Fland was quick to state the he believed their signer to be gay. Placg the k of a supremacist, gay-hatg natn to a sexually charged homoerotic settg uld also be seen as the ultimate act of polil fiance, too. And, durg a time when social progrs was barely a mumble public disurse, Fland's visn has been herald as forward-thkg by some, wh many drawgs of Black men and men of lour picted wh his work. The too have faced accatns of hypersexualisatn by crics – a racist trope often and wrongly suffered by the very peopl – but supporters champn as an early form of clivy. Everythg, after all, Tom Of Fland's universe is hypersexualised. The ntroversy still stands.</p><style data-emotn="css rw1kpk">{--data-embed-display:flex;-webk-align-ems:center;-webk-box-align:center;-ms-flex-align:center;align-ems:center;display:-webk-box;display:-webk-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;marg-bottom:0.9375rem;}@media(m-width: 20rem){{clear:both;marg-left:to;marg-right:to;width:100%;}}@media(m-width: 30rem){{clear:both;marg-left:to;marg-right:to;width:100%;}}@media(m-width: 40.625rem){{width:60%;marg-left:1rem;marg-right:0rem;float:right;clear:right;}}@media(m-width: 48rem){{width:60%;marg-left:1rem;marg-right:0rem;float:right;clear:right;}}@media(m-width: 64rem){{width:50%;marg-left:1rem;marg-right:0rem;float:right;clear:right;}}@media(m-width: 73.75rem){{width:50%;marg-left:1rem;marg-right:0rem;float:right;clear:right;}}@media(m-width: 75rem){{width:60%;marg-left:1rem;marg-right:0rem;float:right;clear:right;}}@media(m-width: 90rem){{width:60%;marg-left:1rem;marg-right:0rem;float:right;clear:right;}} a span{right:1rem;} img{width:to;height:85vh;} a{display:-webk-le-box;display:-webk-le-flex;display:-ms-le-flexbox;display:le-flex;posn:var(--posn, relative);} img:not(.ewcw41w1){display:block;width:100%;height:to;-webk-align-self:flex-start;-ms-flex-em-align:flex-start;align-self:flex-start;}</style><div size="large" data-embed="body-image" data-no-id="15" class="align-right size-large embed css-rw1kpk e1xqj1sx4"><div class="css-uwraif e1xqj1sx3"><img alt="tom of fland pri" tle="tom of fland pri" loadg="lazy" width="600" height="765" dg="async" data-nimg="1" style="lor: transparent; width: 100%; height: to;" siz="100vw" srcSet=" 640w, 980w, 1120w, 1200w, 1920w" src="" class="css-0 exi4f7p0" /><div class="css-78jldq e1xqj1sx2"><div class="css-8h7i7x e1xqj1sx1">Stamp duty: the postage seal that set the world of philately ablaze</div><figptn class="css-1am3yn9 enfs9c50"><span class="css-1mcfn5x e6iqd2">Itella Posti Oy / Fland. Origal imag (1978,1979) © Tom of Fland Foundatn / USA.</span></figptn></div></div></div><p data-no-id="16" class="css-aeyldl et3p2gv0">Ultimately, Fland wanted to illtrate a salvatn of sorts. "My drawgs are primarily meant for guys who may have experienced misunrstandg and opprsn and feel that they have somehow failed their liv," he said 1990. "I want to enurage this mory group, to tell them not to give up, to thk posively about their act and whole beg.” Of urse, this took time and an entire ongog movement that only saw the artist's sexualy crimalised his home untry at the grand old age of 61. There's still a long way to go. Though now, there is a wir appreciatn of Fland's work. In 2014, three Fnish first class stamps were released celebratg Tom Of Fland – a world first the mail dtry as the first postage stamp to pict homoerotic art. "Pretty risqué" said a <em><a href=" target="_blank" data-vars-ga-outbound-lk=" data-vars-ga-ux-element="Hyperlk" data-vars-ga-ll-to-actn="Washgton Post " class="body-lk css-umdwtv et3p2gv0">Washgton Post </a></em><a href=" target="_blank" data-vars-ga-outbound-lk=" data-vars-ga-ux-element="Hyperlk" data-vars-ga-ll-to-actn="article" class="body-lk css-umdwtv et3p2gv0">article</a> at the time. Pretty great, said everyone else, as beme one of the bt-sellg stamps the natn's history. He was also the subject of a 2017 feature film that was pched as the Fnish entry of Bt Foreign Language Film at the Osrs. The Amy, then still the doldms of out-of-touchns, failed to echo the legn reviews.</p><p data-no-id="17" class="css-aeyldl et3p2gv0">He's also your wardrobe. In JW Anrson and CDLP, y. But <a href=" target="_blank" data-vars-ga-outbound-lk=" data-vars-ga-ux-element="Hyperlk" data-vars-ga-ll-to-actn="bare chts are back as well. 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Or, perhaps, we're a lot more like a young Too Laaksonen than we'd thk; grapplg wh fantasi we're told to dispel, crackg padlocked dreams open art, and clothg, and Pri, creasgly unaaid of the attractive nightly llers our dreams.</p><div supprsHydratnWarng data-no-id="18" data-embed="edorial-lk" class="embed css-0 e9hzx6g0"><style data-emotn="css 1643r8a">{borr:none;marg-top:1.875rem;marg-bottom:1.875rem;paddg:0rem;}</style><asi class="css-1643r8a e6pr2lz5"><style data-emotn="css l3w2xc">{display:le-block;font-weight:normal;marg:0rem;borr-top:0.25rem solid #15263D;paddg-right:1.1rem;paddg-top:0.4375rem;text-transform:lowerse;font-fay:Lsanne,Lsanne-fallback,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:0.875rem;le-height:1.3;}</style><h6 class="css-l3w2xc e6pr2lz3"><style data-emotn="css 156fvc1">{borr-bottom:0.4375rem solid #FF3A30;borr-right:0.4375rem solid transparent;ntent:'';display:le-block;height:0;marg-right:0.5rem;width:0;}</style><span aria-hidn="te" class="css-156fvc1 eagam8p0"></span><style data-emotn="css 8lle59">{max-width:lc(100% - 120px - .625rem);}</style><span class="css-8lle59 e6pr2lz1">Related Story</span><span aria-hidn="te" class="css-0 eagam8p1"></span></h6><style data-emotn="css c4s2gi">{paddg:0rem;marg:0rem;list-style:none;}</style><ul class="css-c4s2gi e6pr2lz4"><style data-emotn="css 79zw4t">{font-fay:Lsanne,Lsanne-fallback,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:1rem;le-height:2rem;paddg-top:0.625rem;}@media(max-width: 48rem){{font-size:0.9375rem;le-height:1.3;}}@media(m-width: 48rem){{le-height:1.4;}}@media(m-width: 64rem){{le-height:1.4;}} a{-webk-text-ratn:none;text-ratn:none;lor:her;-webk-transn:all 0.3s ease--out;transn:all 0.3s ease--out;} a:hover{lor:#595959;}</style><li class="css-79zw4t e6pr2lz2"><style data-emotn="css 1bn7a5e">{-webk-text-ratn:none;text-ratn:none;display:-webk-box;display:-webk-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;-webk-box-flex-wrap:wrap;-webk-flex-wrap:wrap;-ms-flex-wrap:wrap;flex-wrap:wrap;-webk-flex-directn:row;-ms-flex-directn:row;flex-directn:row;-webk-box-pack:start;-ms-flex-pack:start;-webk-jtify-ntent:flex-start;jtify-ntent:flex-start;-webk-align-ems:center;-webk-box-align:center;-ms-flex-align:center;align-ems:center;}</style><a href="//life/g22056170/unsung-lgbtq-hero-pri/" data-vars-ga-ll-to-actn="8 Unsung LGBTQ+ Hero To Celebrate This Pri" data-vars-ga-ux-element="Edorial Lks" data-vars-ga-outbound-lk=" class="css-1bn7a5e e1c1bym14"><span aria-hidn="te" class="css-0 eagam8p0"></span><style data-emotn="css 1l0u1">{marg-right:0.625rem;height:to;}</style><img src="" alt="this image is not available" tle="8 Unsung LGBTQ+ Hero To Celebrate This Pri" width="120" height="100%" dg="async" loadg="lazy" image-align="left" class="css-1l0u1 e6pr2lz0" /><span class="css-8lle59 e6pr2lz1">8 Unsung LGBTQ+ Hero To Celebrate This Pri</span><span aria-hidn="te" class="css-0 eagam8p1"></span></a></li></ul></asi></div><p data-no-id="19" class="css-aeyldl et3p2gv0"><em><strong>Like this article? 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zxq36b">{display:le;}{paddg:0.25rem;ntent:">";}</style><li emProp="emListElement" emSpe emType=" class="css-zxq36b e9l0kn01"><style data-emotn="css rg26">{-webk-transn:all 0.3s ease--out;transn:all 0.3s ease--out;-webk-text-ratn:unrle;text-ratn:unrle;text-ratn-thickns:0.0625rem;text-unrle-offset:0.25rem;}{lor:#000000;-webk-text-ratn:unrle;text-ratn:unrle;text-ratn-thickns:0.0625rem;text-unrle-offset:0.25rem;}</style><style data-emotn="css 10asp0m">{-webk-transn:all 0.3s ease--out;transn:all 0.3s ease--out;-webk-text-ratn:unrle;text-ratn:unrle;text-ratn-thickns:0.0625rem;text-unrle-offset:0.25rem;}{lor:#000000;-webk-text-ratn:unrle;text-ratn:unrle;text-ratn-thickns:0.0625rem;text-unrle-offset:0.25rem;}</style><a emProp="em" href="//style/" data-vars-ga-ux-element="Breadcmbs" data-vars-ga-ll-to-actn="Style" data-vars-ga-outbound-lk=" class="e9l0kn00 css-10asp0m e1c1bym14"><span emProp="name">Style</span></a><meta emProp="posn" ntent="1" /></li><style data-emotn="css huh8md">{display:none;}{paddg:0.25rem;ntent:">";}</style><li emProp="emListElement" emSpe emType=" class="css-huh8md e9l0kn01"><a emProp="em" href="//style/a32942134/pri-month-tom-of-fland-menswear/" data-vars-ga-ux-element="Breadcmbs" data-vars-ga-ll-to-actn="There's A Gay Porno Stashed In Your Wardrobe: The History Behd Pri 2020's Bt Collab" data-vars-ga-outbound-lk=" class="e9l0kn00 css-10asp0m e1c1bym14"><span emProp="name">There's A Gay Porno Stashed In Your Wardrobe: The History Behd Pri 2020's Bt Collab</span></a><meta emProp="posn" ntent="2" /></li></ol></nav><style data-emotn="css g4r5va">{font-fay:Glanz,Glanz-fallback,Tim,Serif;font-weight:normal;grid-lumn:1/-1;marg-bottom:0.9375rem;marg-top:0.9375rem;}@media(max-width: 48rem){{font-size:2rem;le-height:1.25;}}@media(m-width: 48rem){{font-size:2.625rem;le-height:1.1;}}@media(m-width: 64rem){{font-size:3.125rem;le-height:1.1;}}@media(m-width: 73.75rem){{font-size:3.37499rem;le-height:1.1;}}</style><h1 class="css-g4r5va exadjwu10"><span aria-hidn="te" class="css-0 eagam8p0"></span>There's A Gay Porno Stashed In Your Wardrobe: The History Behd Pri 2020's Bt Collab<span aria-hidn="te" class="css-0 eagam8p1"></span></h1><style data-emotn="css 2qf7xf">{lor:#515150;font-fay:Lsanne,Lsanne-fallback,Arial,sans-serif;font-weight:normal;marg-bottom:0.625rem;}@media(max-width: 48rem){{font-size:1.0625rem;le-height:1.2;}}@media(m-width: 48rem){{font-size:1.3125rem;le-height:1.2;}}@media(m-width: 64rem){{font-size:1.3125rem;le-height:1.3;}} a{-webk-text-ratn:unrle;text-ratn:unrle;text-ratn-thickns:0.0625rem;text-ratn-lor:#FF3A30;text-unrle-offset:0.25rem;lor:#000000;-webk-transn:all 0.3s ease--out;transn:all 0.3s ease--out;} a:hover{lor:#595959;text-ratn-lor:borr-lk-body-hover;}</style><div class="css-2qf7xf exadjwu8"><p>As the rporate takeover of the Pri flag ntu, JW Anrson's latt llab – and menswear – looks to the unsanised rnal visn of Tom Of Fland<br /></p></div><style data-emotn="css 18k4ks7">{lor:#161616;font-fay:Lsanne,Lsanne-fallback,Arial,sans-serif;letter-spacg:0.02rem;marg-bottom:0.625rem;paddg-right:0.3125rem;text-transform:upperse;}@media(max-width: 48rem){{font-size:0.70003rem;le-height:1.4;}}@media(m-width: 40.625rem){{font-size:0.70003rem;le-height:1.3;}} span{font-fay:Lsanne,Lsanne-fallback,Arial,sans-serif;letter-spacg:0rem;text-transform:palize;}@media(max-width: 48rem){ span{le-height:2rem;font-size:0.875rem;}}@media(m-width: 48rem){ span{le-height:2rem;font-size:0.875rem;}}@media(m-width: 64rem){ span{le-height:2rem;font-size:0.875rem;}}</style><div class="css-18k4ks7 exadjwu7"><style data-emotn="css 1eqkg5m">{lor:#161616;font-fay:Lsanne,Lsanne-fallback,Arial,sans-serif;font-style:normal;letter-spacg:0.02rem;paddg-right:0.3125rem;text-transform:upperse;-webk-text-stroke:0.005rem;}@media(max-width: 48rem){{font-size:0.70003rem;le-height:1.4;}}@media(m-width: 40.625rem){{font-size:0.70003rem;le-height:1.3;}}</style><addrs class="css-1eqkg5m ehvvd9m2"><style data-emotn="css 19e0noj">{lor:#161616;font-fay:Lsanne,Lsanne-fallback,Arial,sans-serif;letter-spacg:0.02rem;paddg-right:0.3125rem;text-transform:upperse;-webk-text-stroke:0.005rem;}@media(max-width: 48rem){{font-size:0.70003rem;le-height:1.4;}}@media(m-width: 40.625rem){{font-size:0.70003rem;le-height:1.3;}}</style><span class="css-19e0noj ehvvd9m1"><style data-emotn="css 1sa04t">{borr-radi:50%;vertil-align:middle;marg-right:0.3125rem;object-f:ver;}</style><img src="" alt="Headshot of Murray Clark" tle="Headshot of Murray Clark" width="40" height="40" dg="async" fetchPrry="high" class=" css-1sa04t ehvvd9m0" />By <style data-emotn="css 7l5upj">{-webk-text-ratn:unrle;text-ratn:unrle;text-ratn-thickns:0.0625rem;text-ratn-lor:her;text-unrle-offset:0.25rem;lor:her;-webk-transn:all 0.3s ease--out;transn:all 0.3s ease--out;}{lor:#595959;text-ratn-lor:borr-lk-body-hover;}</style><a href="//thor/219168/murray-clark/" class="css-7l5upj e1c1bym14">Murray Clark</a></span><style data-emotn="css 1bcsdhu">{display:le-block;font-fay:Lsanne,Lsanne-fallback,Arial,sans-serif;marg-left:0.625rem;text-transform:upperse;}@media(max-width: 48rem){{font-size:0.75rem;le-height:1.3;}}@media(m-width: 48rem){{font-size:0.75rem;le-height:1.3;}}@media(m-width: 64rem){{font-size:0.75rem;le-height:1.3;}}</style><time class="css-1bcsdhu exadjwu6">Published: 30 June 2020</time></addrs></div></div></div></div></hear><style data-emotn="css k008qs">{display:-webk-box;display:-webk-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;}</style><div class="css-k008qs ewisyje0"><style data-emotn="css 7ce51e">{marg-bottom:0.9375rem;posn:relative;}@media(max-width: 64rem){{max-width:lc(100vw - (1rem * 2));marg-left:1rem;marg-right:1rem;} .e152u5os0{width:100vw;marg-left:lc(-1 * 1rem);}}@media(m-width: 48rem) and (max-width: 61.25rem){{marg-left:to;marg-right:to;} .e152u5os0{width:100vw;marg-left:lc((100vw - (lc(20.625rem * 2 - 1rem) - 2 * 1rem)) / -2);}}@media(m-width: 61.25rem) and (max-width: 90rem){{max-width:lc(20.625rem * 2 - 1rem);marg-left:lc((100vw - lc(20.625rem * 2 - 1rem) - 1rem - 20.625rem) / 2);paddg-left:1rem;paddg-right:1rem;} .e152u5os0{width:100vw;marg-left:lc(lc((100vw - lc(20.625rem * 2 - 1rem) - 1rem - 20.625rem) / -2) - 1rem);}}@media(m-width: 90rem){{marg-left:lc((100vw - lc(20.625rem * 2 - 1rem)) / 2);max-width:lc(20.625rem * 2 - 1rem);paddg-left:1rem;paddg-right:1rem;} .e152u5os0{width:100vw;marg-left:lc(lc((100vw - lc(20.625rem * 2 + 1rem)) / -2) - lc(2 * 1rem));}[data-has-sponsor] {marg-left:lc((100vw - lc(20.625rem * 2 - 1rem)) / 4);marg-right:lc((100vw - lc(20.625rem * 2 - 1rem)) / 4);}}</style><div class="standard-ntaer ntent-ntaer article-ntaer css-7ce51e ewisyje3"><style data-emotn="css woto36">{font-fay:Charter,Geia,Tim,Serif;font-size:1.1875rem;le-height:1.6;paddg-left:0rem;paddg-right:0rem;posn:relative;}@media(m-width: 48rem){{paddg-left:3.5rem;paddg-right:3.5rem;}}@media(m-width: 48rem) and (max-width: 61.25rem){{max-width:45.25rem;marg-left:to;marg-right:to;}}@media(m-width: 61.25rem){{paddg-left:0rem;paddg-right:0rem;}}@media(m-width: 73.75rem) and (max-width: 100rem){{paddg-left:0rem;paddg-right:0rem;}}@media(m-width: 90rem){{paddg-left:0rem;paddg-right:0rem;}} em{font-style:alic;font-fay:Charter,Geia,Tim,Serif;} strong{font-fay:Charter,Geia,Tim,Serif;font-weight:bold;}{clear:both;ntent:" ";display:block;font-size:0.7rem;le-height:1.5rem;height:0rem;visibily:hidn;}</style><div class="article-body-ntent article-body standard-body-ntent css-woto36 ewisyje7"><style data-emotn="css am5pt0">{font-fay:Charter,Geia,Tim,Serif;font-size:1.1875rem;le-height:1.6;}{float:left;text-transform:upperse;font-weight:bold;marg-right:0.9375rem;marg-bottom:-0.625rem;marg-top:0;}{font-fay:Glanz,Glanz-fallback,Tim,Serif;font-size:6.25rem;font-weight:normal;le-height:0.75;marg-right:0;paddg:0.6rem 0.75rem 0 0;}@-moz-document url-prefix(){{marg-top:0.625rem;}}@media(max-width: 48rem){{marg-right:0.3125rem;}}@media(m-width: 64rem){{le-height:0.75;}} strong{font-fay:Charter,Geia,Tim,Serif;font-weight:bold;} em{font-style:alic;font-fay:Charter,Geia,Tim,Serif;}</style><p data-no-id="0" class="body-dropp css-am5pt0 et3p2gv0">In 1939, a young Fnish stunt by the name of Too Laaksonen had a secret. In-between class, the 19-year-old sketched what me to him dreams – the vivid, breathls on that shock our nscns when the sun ris – and soon assembled a small archive of <style data-emotn="css umdwtv">{-webk-text-ratn:unrle;text-ratn:unrle;text-ratn-thickns:.0625rem;text-ratn-lor:#FF3A30;text-unrle-offset:0.25rem;lor:her;-webk-transn:background 0.4s;transn:background 0.4s;background:lear-gradient(#ffffff, #ffffff 50%, #d5dbe3 50%, #d5dbe3);-webk-background-size:100% 200%;background-size:100% 200%;}{lor:#000000;text-ratn-lor:borr-lk-body-hover;-webk-background-posn:100% 100%;background-posn:100% 100%;}</style><a href=" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" data-vars-ga-outbound-lk=" data-vars-ga-ux-element="Hyperlk" data-vars-ga-ll-to-actn=""nghty drawgs"" class="body-lk css-umdwtv et3p2gv0">"nghty drawgs"</a>. The nghtit part beg an illegal one: those that me to the artist his REM-duced phoria were not young attractive women. They were attractive young men, so mcled and chiselled that they were barely ntaed their labourer's uniform, loaf-like hands firmly planted on the smalls of narrow backs, among other plac. And yet the dream was abptly cut short. As global nflict lled time on amia, the young Laaksonen was enlisted to fight right after the Wter War agast the USSR and served the Contuatn War durg WWII, and he stroyed all trac of his work. On the surface, the army was not so welg of such exprsn.</p><style data-emotn="css aeyldl">{font-fay:Charter,Geia,Tim,Serif;font-size:1.1875rem;le-height:1.6;} strong{font-fay:Charter,Geia,Tim,Serif;font-weight:bold;} em{font-style:alic;font-fay:Charter,Geia,Tim,Serif;}</style><p data-no-id="1" class="css-aeyldl et3p2gv0">It's likely you've never heard of Too Laaksonen. But you may've seen his work s purt form, and you've certaly seen the epochal wardrobe of Freddie Mercury, and the Village People, and every tweet that refers to a semi-famo handsome man as 'zaddy'. For Laaksonen is more famo by his pen name, a psdonym that me to fe several strands of gay culture before paddlg the mastream: Tom Of Fland.<br /></p><style data-emotn="css w4h092">{--data-embed-display:flex;-webk-align-ems:center;-webk-box-align:center;-ms-flex-align:center;align-ems:center;display:-webk-box;display:-webk-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;marg-bottom:0.9375rem;}@media(m-width: 20rem){{clear:both;marg-left:to;marg-right:to;width:100%;}}@media(m-width: 30rem){{clear:both;marg-left:to;marg-right:to;width:100%;}}@media(m-width: 40.625rem){{width:60%;marg-right:1rem;marg-left:0rem;float:left;clear:left;}}@media(m-width: 48rem){{width:60%;marg-right:1rem;marg-left:0rem;float:left;clear:left;}}@media(m-width: 64rem){{width:50%;marg-right:1rem;marg-left:0rem;float:left;clear:left;}}@media(m-width: 73.75rem){{width:50%;marg-right:1rem;marg-left:0rem;float:left;clear:left;}}@media(m-width: 75rem){{width:60%;marg-right:1rem;marg-left:0rem;float:left;clear:left;}}@media(m-width: 90rem){{width:60%;marg-right:1rem;marg-left:0rem;float:left;clear:left;}} a span{right:1rem;} img{width:to;height:85vh;} a{display:-webk-le-box;display:-webk-le-flex;display:-ms-le-flexbox;display:le-flex;posn:var(--posn, relative);} img:not(.ewcw41w1){display:block;width:100%;height:to;-webk-align-self:flex-start;-ms-flex-em-align:flex-start;align-self:flex-start;}</style><div size="large" data-embed="body-image" data-no-id="2" class="align-left size-large embed css-w4h092 e1xqj1sx4"><style data-emotn="css uwraif">{width:100%;display:-webk-le-box;display:-webk-le-flex;display:-ms-le-flexbox;display:le-flex;-webk-flex-directn:lumn;-ms-flex-directn:lumn;flex-directn:lumn;marg-left:to;marg-right:to;-webk-box-pack:center;-ms-flex-pack:center;-webk-jtify-ntent:center;jtify-ntent:center;}</style><div class="css-uwraif e1xqj1sx3"><img alt="jw anrson tom of fland pri" tle="JW Anrson Tom Of Fland Pri" loadg="lazy" width="500" height="850" dg="async" data-nimg="1" style="lor: transparent; width: 100%; height: to;" siz="100vw" srcSet=" 640w, 980w, 1120w, 1200w, 1920w" src="" class="css-0 exi4f7p0" /><style data-emotn="css 78jldq">{paddg-left:0rem;}</style><div class="css-78jldq e1xqj1sx2"><style data-emotn="css 8h7i7x">{width:0;m-width:100%;paddg-top:0.625rem;letter-spacg:0.02rem;font-fay:Lsanne,Lsanne-fallback,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:0.875rem;le-height:1.3;} em, i{font-fay:her;font-style:alic;}</style><div class="css-8h7i7x e1xqj1sx1">Tom Of Tland Tote (£430) at <a href=" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" class="css-umdwtv et3p2gv0"></a></div><style data-emotn="css 1am3yn9">{paddg-left:0rem;le-height:1;}</style><figptn class="css-1am3yn9 enfs9c50"><style data-emotn="css 1mcfn5x">{lor:#595959;font-fay:Lsanne,Lsanne-fallback,Arial,sans-serif;paddg-right:0.3125rem;}@media(max-width: 48rem){{font-size:0.70028rem;le-height:1.2;}}@media(m-width: 48rem){{font-size:0.70028rem;le-height:1.2;}}@media(m-width: 64rem){{font-size:0.75rem;le-height:1.3;}}</style><span class="css-1mcfn5x e6iqd2">JW Anrson</span></figptn></div></div></div><p data-no-id="3" class="css-aeyldl et3p2gv0">Jt recently, was Brish signer JW Anrson's turn to re-home Fland's landmark work to a limed edn llectn to ci wh Pri (another ever-important event placed on ice by <a href=" target="_blank" data-vars-ga-outbound-lk=" data-vars-ga-ux-element="Hyperlk" data-vars-ga-ll-to-actn="Covid-19" class="body-lk css-umdwtv et3p2gv0">Covid-19</a>), and a very important birthday (Tom would've been 100 this year). Anrson himself is a llector of the artist. Though this is no okie-cutter rabow-edged 'psule', or a knee-jerk signal to profs 'allyship' when so many brands fail to even make a ntributn to LGBTQ+ chari spe -optg the flag. This stuff isn't for the sanised Cibank float, eher. Upon felt tote bags and neoprene visors, Tom Of Fland's briga of burly men are dog what they've always done: tyg one another up, refg shirts, half-sg as mcl are grabbed and zippers undone. And parison to some other works, the are far tamer waters – though a ntuatn of the signer's penis keyrg is not for the pearl-clutcher, wh a Tom Of Flandifitn of studs and piercgs upon black leather, wh JW Anrson donatg 20 per cent of sal of the signature accsory all lours to <a href=" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" data-vars-ga-outbound-lk=" data-vars-ga-ux-element="Hyperlk" data-vars-ga-ll-to-actn="UK Black Pri" class="body-lk css-umdwtv et3p2gv0">UK Black Pri</a> and LGBTQ+ youth homels chary <a href=" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" data-vars-ga-outbound-lk=" data-vars-ga-ux-element="Hyperlk" data-vars-ga-ll-to-actn="Akt" class="body-lk css-umdwtv et3p2gv0">Akt</a>. </p><p data-no-id="4" class="css-aeyldl et3p2gv0">JW Anrson is one of the few homegrown Brish signers to mand a large fandom wh his own name. And this llectn, by very token of Anrson's brand pal, is a visible unter to the Disneyfied garb labels cynilly peddle. The are piec plucked om the rnal g when Pri began as a rt rponse to police raids of the gay-iendly Stonewall Inn. It's thentic, undoctored – even more so as queerns self only ever did exist on the g.</p><p data-no-id="5" class="css-aeyldl et3p2gv0">"Even as nversatns about sexualy and homosexualy were expandg the prs, gay materials only circulated on the g the mid-twentieth century. Most mastream discsn of homosexualy prented men as perverts or crimals; at bt, they were sad victims," says Dr Jt Bengry, a history lecturer at London's Goldsmhs, and urse nvenor of the universy's Queer History MA programme. "Men who wanted to fd gay materials uld do so pulp novels and unr-the-unter magaz, but none of this was mastream. However, the kds of physique magaz where Tom Of Fland's art was published had a wi distributn among gay men, surpassg by far the reach of activist publitns." This meant that Amerin tl like <em>Physique Pictorial</em> – an early proto-porn tle to which Fland ntributed – were a way to explore trsic sir unr the heavy cloud of natnal censorship. </p><style data-emotn="css 1xr0550">{--data-embed-display:flex;-webk-align-ems:center;-webk-box-align:center;-ms-flex-align:center;align-ems:center;clear:both;display:-webk-box;display:-webk-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;marg-bottom:0.9375rem;marg-left:to;marg-right:to;width:100%;}@media(m-width: 20rem){{marg:to lc(50% - 50vw) 0.9375rem;width:100vw;}}@media(m-width: 30rem){{marg:to lc(50% - 50vw) 0.9375rem;width:100vw;}}@media(m-width: 40.625rem){{marg:to lc(50% - 50vw) 0.9375rem;width:100vw;}}@media(m-width: 48rem){{marg:to lc(50% - 50vw) 0.9375rem;width:100vw;}}@media(m-width: 64rem){{width:100%;marg:0 to 0.9375rem;}}@media(m-width: 73.75rem){{width:100%;marg:0 to 0.9375rem;}}@media(m-width: 75rem){{width:100%;marg:0 to 0.9375rem;}}@media(m-width: 90rem){{width:100%;marg:0 to 0.9375rem;}} a span{right:1rem;} img{width:to;height:85vh;} a{display:-webk-le-box;display:-webk-le-flex;display:-ms-le-flexbox;display:le-flex;posn:var(--posn, relative);} img:not(.ewcw41w1){display:block;width:100%;height:to;-webk-align-self:flex-start;-ms-flex-em-align:flex-start;align-self:flex-start;}</style><div size="large" data-embed="body-image" data-no-id="6" class="align-center size-large embed css-1xr0550 e1xqj1sx4"><div class="css-uwraif e1xqj1sx3"><img alt="tom of fland pri jw anrson cdlp" tle="tom of fland pri jw anrson cdlp" loadg="lazy" width="981" height="641" dg="async" data-nimg="1" style="lor: transparent; width: 100%; height: to;" siz="100vw" srcSet=" 640w, 980w, 1120w, 1200w, 1920w" src="" class="css-0 exi4f7p0" /><style data-emotn="css fw50lw">@media(m-width: 20rem){{paddg-left:1rem;}}@media(m-width: 30rem){{paddg-left:1rem;}}@media(m-width: 40.625rem){{paddg-left:1rem;}}@media(m-width: 48rem){{paddg-left:1rem;}}@media(m-width: 64rem){{paddg-left:0rem;}}@media(m-width: 73.75rem){{paddg-left:0rem;}}@media(m-width: 75rem){{paddg-left:0rem;}}@media(m-width: 90rem){{paddg-left:0rem;}}</style><div class="css-fw50lw e1xqj1sx2"><div class="css-8h7i7x e1xqj1sx1">JW Anrson’s Tom Of Fland keyrg (left) and CDLP x Tom Of Fland Tanga Brief</div><figptn class="css-1am3yn9 enfs9c50"><span class="css-1mcfn5x e6iqd2">Tom Of Fland Foundatn, CDLP</span></figptn></div></div></div><p data-no-id="7" class="css-aeyldl et3p2gv0">What's more, Tom Of Fland's klg for the hyper-mascule helped shape gay men's perceptns of self, and those around them. "The image of gay men that domated mastream reprentatn at this time was the 'pansy' or the 'sissy'," says Bengry. "He was an object of ridicule and risn, a failed example of masculy. Tom Of Fland's art showed that men who sired other men uld be mascule, virile, and powerful – a rponse to a culture that so often told gay men they uld never be 'real men'."</p><p data-no-id="8" class="css-aeyldl et3p2gv0">So mascule are they, that Tom Of Fland's subjects veer on the cp of sexually-charged riture. Shoebox jaws aren't the exceptn; they're the le. Good looks are sential. Mcl are so big that chts prove almost Olympian, mythologil meatheads that openly and unashamedly dulge behavur that was only whispered about, keen to enjoy the palpable homoeroticism felt by men who spent months and months together isolatn. Tom Of Fland's subjects were soldiers, and loggers, and police officers: there to protect and serve (one another) a world that cried them. In theirs, 'real men' liked 'real men' too, and lighted rejectg the tradnal e of their ample virily. Undue pleasure, jt whout the nvenience of procreatn. </p><p data-no-id="9" class="css-aeyldl et3p2gv0">JW Anrson isn't the first to pull Tom Of Fland to menswear. While a charable <a href=" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" data-vars-ga-outbound-lk=" data-vars-ga-ux-element="Hyperlk" data-vars-ga-ll-to-actn="foundatn named after the artist" class="body-lk css-umdwtv et3p2gv0">foundatn named after the artist</a> promot and prerv erotic art a creative sense (sal of Anrson's llectn will raise funds for the anisatn too), Nordic textil outf Flayson pned the more playful imag to towels, tot and keyrgs, a motached tck driver wkg om a reflective bag charm. If you know, you know. Cult unrwear label CDLP also partnered wh the foundatn 2018, rultg a llab that was a ltle more direct, siphong a portn of proceeds to the foundatn. Barely-there briefs were plucked straight om the monochrome sketch of a textbook Tom Of Flanr, addn to jockstraps (a staple of gay pornography wh roots all-male sport). It was as close to naked as you'd get whout sheddg the tramark of the artist – which was the pot. "I almost never draw a pletely naked man, he has to have at least a pair of boots," Fland is well-quoted to havg said. "To me, a fully-drsed man is more erotic than a naked one. A naked man is, of urse betiful, but drs him black leather or a uniform – ah, then he is more than betiful. Then he is sexy." </p><div size="large" data-embed="body-image" data-no-id="10" class="align-center size-large embed css-1xr0550 e1xqj1sx4"><div class="css-uwraif e1xqj1sx3"><img alt="tom of fland pri" tle="Tom Of Fland Pri" loadg="lazy" width="1013" height="1336" dg="async" data-nimg="1" style="lor: transparent; width: 100%; height: to;" siz="100vw" srcSet=" 640w, 980w, 1120w, 1200w, 1920w" src="" class="css-0 exi4f7p0" /><div class="css-fw50lw e1xqj1sx2"><figptn class="css-1am3yn9 enfs9c50"><span class="css-1mcfn5x e6iqd2">TOM OF FINLAND, Untled, 1988, Graphe on paper, © 1988-2020 Tom of Fland Foundatn</span></figptn></div></div></div><p data-no-id="11" class="css-aeyldl et3p2gv0">Mcle alone did not make Tom Of Fland's brand. It was the clothg. Of urse, certa artefacts are still largely shackled to parts of gay cultur: black leather biker ps, for example, and police shirts so tight they pose an occupatnal hazard. We don't see them much heteronormative spac (which is why the paras of Pri are so important). But is there an element of Fland's rtoonish fixatn the <a href=" target="_blank" data-vars-ga-outbound-lk=" data-vars-ga-ux-element="Hyperlk" data-vars-ga-ll-to-actn="ever-shrkg cloth of Love Island" class="body-lk css-umdwtv et3p2gv0">ever-shrkg cloth of <em>Love Island</em></a>, of oversized glut crowbarred to suffotg nim? Of men that fawn and gh over the gas of their fellow gym goers? Is Tom Of Fland's refurbishment of masculy now a lead for men at large? And, are the oversized am of porn – heterosexual or otherwise – now the norm? It's temptg to nnect the dots.</p><p data-no-id="12" class="css-aeyldl et3p2gv0">In a muny historilly mired ep shame, Tom Of Fland tght many to be ferocly unashamed, to appropriate the uniforms of their opprsors to products of subculture, to out-male the men who told them they weren't enough. That shame endur. Homosexualy was still classed as a mental illns until 1981 Fland. And, hyper-masculy has bee somethg of an overarchg standard gay ialism: that to be any lser is to be sub-par, that to be 'straight passg' is a trophy. This nnot be solely placed at the door of Tom Of Fland, says Bengry. "Today, we might look at the imag ncerned that they rerce a 'masc4masc' culture that valu mp and ris feme gay and queer men, but the ntext of the 1950s and 1960s, Tom Of Fland's imag are erotic, playful and subversive."</p><div supprsHydratnWarng data-no-id="13" data-embed="pullquote" class="embed css-0 e9hzx6g0"><style data-emotn="css 1eiql25">{text-align:center;marg:0rem;paddg-top:0.9375rem;paddg-bottom:0.9375rem;}</style><blockquote class="css-1eiql25 e1pe3zr91"><style data-emotn="css ow0dpz">{borr:0.3125rem solid #FF3A30;borr-radi:100%;ntent:'';display:block;height:2.1875rem;left:50%;marg:-0.99rem to 0 -1.33rem;posn:absolute;width:2.1875rem;}</style><span aria-hidn="te" class="css-ow0dpz eagam8p0"></span><style data-emotn="css la9czl">{font-fay:Lsanne,Lsanne-fallback,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:1.625rem;le-height:1.2;marg:0rem;}@media(max-width: 48rem){{font-size:1.75rem;le-height:1.2;}}@media(m-width: 64rem){{font-size:2.375rem;le-height:1.2;}} b, strong{font-fay:her;font-weight:bold;} em, i{font-fay:her;font-style:alic;}{ntent:'＂';display:block;font-fay:Lsanne,Lsanne-fallback,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:3.4375rem;le-height:0.72;font-style:alic;paddg:0.3125rem 0.875rem 0 0;}</style><blockquote class="css-la9czl e1pe3zr90">Tom Of Fland's art showed that men who sired other men uld be mascule, virile, and powerful</blockquote><span aria-hidn="te" class="css-0 eagam8p1"></span></blockquote></div><p data-no-id="14" class="css-aeyldl et3p2gv0">Tom Of Fland's work isn't flawls. No work is, pecially as our wdow of progrsivism actually progrs to a larger, different visn. Nazi uniforms for example exist earlier piec, spired by Fland's time on the ont. The artist volly nmned s source, sayg "the whole Nazi philosophy, the racism and all that, is hateful to me, but of urse I drew them anyway – they had the sexit uniforms!" Which, self, is problematic, though Tom Of Fland was quick to state the he believed their signer to be gay. Placg the k of a supremacist, gay-hatg natn to a sexually charged homoerotic settg uld also be seen as the ultimate act of polil fiance, too. And, durg a time when social progrs was barely a mumble public disurse, Fland's visn has been herald as forward-thkg by some, wh many drawgs of Black men and men of lour picted wh his work. The too have faced accatns of hypersexualisatn by crics – a racist trope often and wrongly suffered by the very peopl – but supporters champn as an early form of clivy. Everythg, after all, Tom Of Fland's universe is hypersexualised. The ntroversy still stands.</p><style data-emotn="css rw1kpk">{--data-embed-display:flex;-webk-align-ems:center;-webk-box-align:center;-ms-flex-align:center;align-ems:center;display:-webk-box;display:-webk-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;marg-bottom:0.9375rem;}@media(m-width: 20rem){{clear:both;marg-left:to;marg-right:to;width:100%;}}@media(m-width: 30rem){{clear:both;marg-left:to;marg-right:to;width:100%;}}@media(m-width: 40.625rem){{width:60%;marg-left:1rem;marg-right:0rem;float:right;clear:right;}}@media(m-width: 48rem){{width:60%;marg-left:1rem;marg-right:0rem;float:right;clear:right;}}@media(m-width: 64rem){{width:50%;marg-left:1rem;marg-right:0rem;float:right;clear:right;}}@media(m-width: 73.75rem){{width:50%;marg-left:1rem;marg-right:0rem;float:right;clear:right;}}@media(m-width: 75rem){{width:60%;marg-left:1rem;marg-right:0rem;float:right;clear:right;}}@media(m-width: 90rem){{width:60%;marg-left:1rem;marg-right:0rem;float:right;clear:right;}} a span{right:1rem;} img{width:to;height:85vh;} a{display:-webk-le-box;display:-webk-le-flex;display:-ms-le-flexbox;display:le-flex;posn:var(--posn, relative);} img:not(.ewcw41w1){display:block;width:100%;height:to;-webk-align-self:flex-start;-ms-flex-em-align:flex-start;align-self:flex-start;}</style><div size="large" data-embed="body-image" data-no-id="15" class="align-right size-large embed css-rw1kpk e1xqj1sx4"><div class="css-uwraif e1xqj1sx3"><img alt="tom of fland pri" tle="tom of fland pri" loadg="lazy" width="600" height="765" dg="async" data-nimg="1" style="lor: transparent; width: 100%; height: to;" siz="100vw" srcSet=" 640w, 980w, 1120w, 1200w, 1920w" src="" class="css-0 exi4f7p0" /><div class="css-78jldq e1xqj1sx2"><div class="css-8h7i7x e1xqj1sx1">Stamp duty: the postage seal that set the world of philately ablaze</div><figptn class="css-1am3yn9 enfs9c50"><span class="css-1mcfn5x e6iqd2">Itella Posti Oy / Fland. Origal imag (1978,1979) © Tom of Fland Foundatn / USA.</span></figptn></div></div></div><p data-no-id="16" class="css-aeyldl et3p2gv0">Ultimately, Fland wanted to illtrate a salvatn of sorts. "My drawgs are primarily meant for guys who may have experienced misunrstandg and opprsn and feel that they have somehow failed their liv," he said 1990. "I want to enurage this mory group, to tell them not to give up, to thk posively about their act and whole beg.” Of urse, this took time and an entire ongog movement that only saw the artist's sexualy crimalised his home untry at the grand old age of 61. There's still a long way to go. Though now, there is a wir appreciatn of Fland's work. In 2014, three Fnish first class stamps were released celebratg Tom Of Fland – a world first the mail dtry as the first postage stamp to pict homoerotic art. "Pretty risqué" said a <em><a href=" target="_blank" data-vars-ga-outbound-lk=" data-vars-ga-ux-element="Hyperlk" data-vars-ga-ll-to-actn="Washgton Post " class="body-lk css-umdwtv et3p2gv0">Washgton Post </a></em><a href=" target="_blank" data-vars-ga-outbound-lk=" data-vars-ga-ux-element="Hyperlk" data-vars-ga-ll-to-actn="article" class="body-lk css-umdwtv et3p2gv0">article</a> at the time. Pretty great, said everyone else, as beme one of the bt-sellg stamps the natn's history. He was also the subject of a 2017 feature film that was pched as the Fnish entry of Bt Foreign Language Film at the Osrs. The Amy, then still the doldms of out-of-touchns, failed to echo the legn reviews.</p><p data-no-id="17" class="css-aeyldl et3p2gv0">He's also your wardrobe. In JW Anrson and CDLP, y. But <a href=" target="_blank" data-vars-ga-outbound-lk=" data-vars-ga-ux-element="Hyperlk" data-vars-ga-ll-to-actn="bare chts are back as well. Buttons are to be undone" class="body-lk css-umdwtv et3p2gv0">bare chts are back as well. Buttons are to be undone</a>. Perhaps our drowned world of PornHub and OnlyFans and social liberatn has sensised to such imag: we're OK to mol our menswear about men who like men bee that's chill and we're progrsive and we're ol. But Tom Of Fland was dog this before the lights h green, before lawmakers even acknowledged our existence, and rporatns followed su. 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