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If you’re not too full after dner, the Big Gay Ice Cream shop is a short walk. Big Gay Ice Cream. If you love ice cream, then you need to drop by Big Gay Ice Cream.

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I don’t eat soft serve — except at Big Gay Ice Cream.

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Gay Rtrant. 657 Washgton Ave., Brooklyn; Gay Ice CreamFound by Brooklyn Doug Qut and his partner, Bryan Petroff, this lorful, unirn-emblazoned soft-serve shop is known for cheeky n like the Salty Pimp and the Dorothy, as well as nt shak served rabow cups.

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But several plac around the untry, they rema anchors of safety and Raff for The New York TimPublished May 28, 2021Updated May 29, 2021Stt Frankel’s favore memori of New York gay rtrants aren’t about food.

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Manat was so gay, had a sobriquet: rtrants, said Mr. ”But all those plac he so fondly remembers are long closed, as are Harvt, Orb’s and several others listed an article, headled “Rtrants That Roll Out the Wele Mat for Gay Ders, ” that ran this newspaper 27 years ago.

The panmic h the untry’s urban gay rtrants pecially hard, said Jt Nelson, the print of the Natnal LGBT Chamber of Commerce. MeMe’s Der, a popular queer rtrant Brooklyn, permanently closed November, cg shutdown measur and a lack of ernment rtrants, like gay bars, are also facg cris of inty and purpose a time that is many ways more welg than the past, when gay people sought out gay rtrants bee they offered safety and acceptance that uldn’t be found elsewhere. Gay men equented plac like Orphan Andy’s, a mpy der om the same that’s still bs the Castro neighborhood of San Francis.

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Atlanta had Waterworks, which a 1992 newsletter for the group Black and Whe Men Together lled the cy’s “only Black-owned gay rtrant. And shiftg nceptns of sexualy and genr extend beyond what words like gay, lbian, male or female n acmodate. A gay rtrant n jt sound fuddy-duddy.

“Many of the more privileged young queer people have grown up wh cln, so they don’t feel the need to be a place where you’re sheltered om heterosexism, ” said Julie Podmore, an urban geographer at Conrdia Universy may be the se New York Cy, where gay rtrants are gog the way of dosrs (if not yet extct — Elmo and other spots are still keepg their gay fan base fed) elsewhere the untry, many gay rtrants are thrivg — as treasured lol bs, facto muny centers, refug om ntug anti-queer vlence and potential paths forward for a rtrant dtry a recent Saturday night the Dupont Circle neighborhood of Washgton, Annie’s Paramount Steak Hoe was by, and was gay. Three 20-somethg gay men shared i.

Katas says nobody her fay is gay, yet Annie’s surely is. That seed was planted by her great-nt Annie was beyond supportive of the gay muny and beme, for many of the rtrant’s racially diverse ders, a mother figure before her ath 2013.

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Katas said, “people are g back wh tears their ey” bee they “missed beg a space where they’re not the only gay people. ”Derr Andra and Zack Sands weren’t lookg for a gay rtrant when they moved to Dupont Circle four years ago.

”For Steve Herman, 79, who has eaten at Annie’s sce 1976, that reason is the fact that Dupont Circle isn’t as gay as once was.

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“I thk ’s a great thg that gay people are more mastream and fortable gog other plac, ” he said. ” It sells shirts emblazoned wh the words “Tastg Good” and “Tastg Gay. ”“If there’s a way food is queer, ’s beg non-homogeno, beg lateral and multiple, ” Mx.

”The historian Gee Chncey trac gay eatg plac New York Cy back to the cheap urban dg halls that tered to unmarried workers the late 19th century. In the 1920s and ’30s, the police often raid feterias like Horn & Hardart, where gay men gathered to “ridicule the domant culture that ridiculed them, and nstct an alternative culture, ” as Mr.

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