Throughout the twentieth century, clothg has been ed by lbians and gay men as a means of exprsg self-inty and of signalg to one another.
Contents:
A HANDY GUI TO ALL GAY MEN
* gay culture wear *
But when one particular look cropped up the post-Stonewall gay scene of the 1970s, was so popular—and so distct—that the guys who sported were dismissed as “clon. )And while the nickname was ially pejorative, the clone perd marked perhaps the first time that gay men prented themselv wh a queer-signalg uniform that was a direct rponse to societal stereotyp.
“The clone was a reactn to thgs you would see movi of gay men beg flty and nelly, ” says John Calendo, a wrer who lived LA and New York Cy throughout the 70s and 80s, and worked as an edor at the clone-cubatg sk mags Blueboy and In Touch for Men. He pots to the gay mstrel stereotyp the 1967 film The Producers, along wh the timid-lookg guys on the illtrated vers of gay pulp books wh nam like All the Sad Young Men.
HOW GAY CULTURE BLOSSOMED DURG THE ROARG TWENTI
Gay culture is not jt an affectatn. It is an exprsn of difference through style — a way of rvg out space for an alternate way of life. * gay culture wear *
(Not to mentn the 1964 article Life magaze lled “Homosexualy Ameri, ” which scribed a “sad and often sordid world.
”) “That’s the kd of imagery”—backwards stereotyp that basilly villaized queer people—“that a lot of my generatn who beme the clone people grew up wh the ccible of the 60s, ” Calendo ntu, when the civil rights and gay liberatn movements were expandg ias of equaly and eedom. Drsg like a clone, he says, was a rejectn of those olr gay ’s not so easy to ppot precisely who origated the clone ial, guys who were alive at the time ually brg up Al Parker, an adult film star turned producer and director who worked om the 70s to the early 90s. (Parker would eventually bee an advote for gay rights and safe sex, producg only safe-sex films before he passed away om plitns due to AIDS 1992.
It was like, Oh that’s somethg wh a ltle work I uld atta, and I thk that’s why beme so quickly absorbed to the gay muny. “When I thk back on havg lived through the time, was like gay guys were pg om this stereotype that was jt culted to the culture of sissi and faggots, ” says Woodff. “The clone look was certaly about a whe gay man’s rponse and engagement wh those archetyp, ” says Ben Barry, the an of the school of fashn at the New School’s Parsons School of Dign, whose rearch foc on fashn’s relatnship to masculy, sexualy, and the body.
The gay world is often reprented as some sort of monolhic whole that has the same culture. That is a lie. It is actually broken down to a handful of substrata to which each gay belongs. Here they are. * gay culture wear *
”)Prentg as mascule public was physilly safer for gay guys, but the clone stume pulled double duty, Barry says, tweakg tradnal masculy while also signalg to other queer folks.
Durg Prohibn, gay nightlife and culture reached new heights—at least temporarily. * gay culture wear *
“There’s this munal thg happeng right now where people are more open that they’re trans and non-bary or bisexual and not jt on the spectm of beg straight, gay, male, female. Newspapers nounced Athet as effemate, not least one of the proment lears of the movement, Osr Wil, who equently remisced about his “purple hours” spent wh rent boys, and provoked a moral sndal wh the homoerotic them “The Picture of Dorian Gray. Gay men Ameri were tnted for posssg a “dash” or “streak” of lavenr, thanks large part to Abraham Lln’s bgrapher Carl Sandburg, who scribed one of the print’s early male iendships as ntag a “streak of lavenr, and spots soft as May vlets.
Durg the McCarthy era, there was state-sanctned discrimatn when print Eisenhower signed Executive Orr 10450, which beme part of a natnal wch-hunt to purge homosexual men and women om the feral ernment. Lavenr sash and armbands were distributed to a crowd of hundreds a “gay power” march om Washgton Square Park to Stonewall Inn New York, to memorate the Stonewall rts that had jt taken place a month before.
The lor, St Clair said, has been buoyed by the ton achieved by the LGBTQ muny recent years, cludg some untry’s mov to legalize same-sex marriage, and the US, gay mayor Pete Buttigieg’s printial n and last year’s Met Gala theme of “Camp: Not on Fashn. ” The “attacks on gay and transgenr civil rights by the current admistratn, ” she add, has also creased the spotlight on the muny, enuragg them “to rally around each other and explore and celebrate intifyg symbols that have been important to them the past. Throughout the twentieth century, clothg has been ed by lbians and gay men as a means of exprsg self-inty and of signalg to one another.