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class="body__ner-ntaer"><figure data-ttid="IameEmbed" class="IameEmbedWrapper-sc-dRedg cjyRVU iame-embed"><div data-ttid="IameEmbedContaer" class="IameEmbedContaer-hptgUZ fXVBaX"><div class="IameEmbedAspectRatWrapper-hFVJps BKpgQ"><iame class="IameEmbedContent-cMdiev csnuAY IameEmbedContent lazyload" height="90" width="100%" sandbox="allow-scripts allow-same-orig allow-popups" tle="Embedd Frame" data-src=" allowfullscreen="" allow="toplay *; encrypted-media *; clipboard-wre; toplay; fullscreen; picture--picture"></iame></div></div></figure><p class="has-dropp has-dropp__lead-standard-headg paywall">In 1953, <a href=">Marilyn Monroe</a> asked her longtime makp artist Allan Snyr to sneak to the hospal where she was briefly admted after filmg “Gentlemen Prefer Blons,” so that he uld powr her nose. Acrdg to Snyr, Monroe also asked that he do the same after her ath, and gave him an engraved money clip to remd him to get to her while she was “still warm.” In 1962, Snyr touched up Monroe’s visage for her funeral, and served as one of her pallbearers. Not long ago, Mar Dedivanovic, who has spent twelve years patg the face of the realy-TV mogul <a href=">Kim Kardashian Wt</a>, and who nsirs Snyr a spirual mentor, texted me an article om a women’s magaze revealg Snyr’s “eight bety secrets.” He noted that Snyr had ed Vasele as a highlighter—Dedivanovic do, too, though he prefers another emollient jelly, Elizabeth Arn’s Eight Hour Cream, which is the lor and nsistency of ln honey. Snyr was known to dt the tip of Monroe’s nose wh blh orr to give the imprsn of beg more snubbed; Dedivanovic often engeers a siar trompe l’oeil on Wt’s nose, applyg dark powr onto eher si—part of the procs known as ntourg—to make appear narrower. “Omg the siari are unnny,” Dedivanovic wrote. “I often wonr what was like. I n image actually what was like.”</p><p class="paywall">Wt, who has a hundred and eighty-six ln Instagram followers (only five people, cludg Wt’s half sister Kylie Jenner, have more), has spired untls women to sport the “soft glam” look that Dedivanovic first gave her 2008: airbshed sk, sculpted cheekbon, peachy-pk blh, a “bronzy eye,” long false eyelash, and wy highlighter, all “baked”—an dtry term for settg wh loose powr—to a matte fish, like the shell of a ge-ee egg. Dedivanovic’s method is a twist on a practice that dat back to the Elizabethan era, and that was later adopted by the drag muny. Contourg was ial for black-and-whe film, a medium of light and shadow, and was ed early Hollywood by makp artists such as the Polish betician Max Factor (né Maksyian Faktorowicz). It also proved, a century later, to look great on Instagram. Wt started g the app to post selfi 2012, and her signature look seemed to replite spontaneoly on the se: untls mi-Kims wh pouty nu lips (dubbed, wh no small amount of snickerg misogyny, “duck face”), beige on every surface, and hair pulled back to a bun so severe that doubled as an eye lift.</p><p class="paywall">In 2015, ntourg was a “prry tegory” at Sephora, which began to sell a wi variety of ntourg “palett,” featurg powrs and creams ton om vanilla to prso bean. Some ks me wh stctns: pat strip of dark lor on featur you want to rece (jowls, hairle, ch) and light lor where you want to draw foc (cheekbon, the bridge of the nose, the philtm), then furly blend. The backlash me swiftly. The legendary makp artist Bobbi Brown said an terview 2015, “When I see ntourg on people’s fac, looks like dirt.” That year, Pati Dubroff, a makp artist for Charlize Theron and Dakota Johnson who now works for Chanel, posted a picture on Instagram of a ntoured face progrs, which was striped like the sk of a lnfish, and wrote, “i would NEVER SUFFOCATE THE SKIN or create a MASK LIKE CREATURE like this.”</p><p class="paywall">The Kardashian fay face ntued to flood the visual field. (Wh the exceptn of <a href=">Kendall Jenner</a>, a high-fashn mol, Wt’s sisters all wore the look.) Prevly, makp artists had worked almost secret; Dedivanovic soon found himself an unexpectedly public posn. Wt seemed genuely fascated by Dedivanovic’s abily to mold her face to different shap, and she spoke often about his work, to anyone who would listen, wh the giddy enthiasm of a llege stunt who has jt disvered existentialism. When Dedivanovic would sually mentn a product an terview, such as Ben Nye’s “banana powr,” a pale-yellow talcum mixture om a theatril-makp brand that has been bs sce 1967, would sell out, or quickly triple price. (Dedivanovic, for his part, banana powr ls than he once did, havg found that the daffodil lor, on certa sk ton, turns slightly garish when illumated by flashbulbs.)</p><div><div class="ConsumerMarketgUnThemedWrapper-iUTMTf jssHut nsumer-marketg-un nsumer-marketg-un--article-mid-ntent" role="prentatn" aria-hidn="te"><div class="nsumer-marketg-un__slot nsumer-marketg-un__slot--article-mid-ntent nsumer-marketg-un__slot---ntent"></div><div class="journey-un"></div></div></div><p class="paywall">Dedivanovic, who is thirty-seven, grew up the Bronx. His parents are Albanians om Montenegro. He has an angular, lupe jawle and the bifurted mtache of a young Errol Flynn. He is soft-spoken and, by his own admissn, sometim secure. He is prone to cryg, particularly when talkg about his mother. For years, he hated the way his nose looked, and ntemplated rhoplasty. He did not talk at all terviews or vios about his private life, and mataed the same discretn wh his celebry clientele. “Mar is probably one of the only people that I uld tst—like really tst, like ‘Oh, my God, don’t tell anyone I’m pregnant’ kd of tst, you know?” Wt told me last year by phone, om Los Angel. “I’m not pregnant, by the way,” she add.</p><p class="paywall">Dedivanovic me up the dtry before the advent of “bety fluencers”—onle personali who prent smetics tutorials on platforms like YouTube and <a href=">TikTok</a>—but he is arguably at ground zero for ntemporary Inter bety culture. Arabelle Sirdi, a journalist who is currently wrg a book about the ncept of “bety as terror,” scribed Dedivanovic to me as “the Venn-diagram middle pot of Inter and celebry.” His client roster has expand beyond Wt to clu other famo women, such as Kate Bosworth, Naomie Harris, Jennifer Lopez, Salma Hayek, and Demi Lovato. He did Lovato’s makp for the most recent Grammys, where she shed a sgle tear durg her performance. Dedivanovic, who was watchg her on a monor om about twenty feet away, told me that he briefly feared that his “reer would be over” if her masra ran. It stayed put.</p><p class="has-dropp has-dropp__lead-standard-headg paywall">Dedivanovic is perhaps bt known for the Masterclass, a live event attend by aspirg makp artists, who pay as much as seventeen hundred dollars (when Wt ss as the mol) to observe him dog makp for up to eight hours. A natural pedagogue, Dedivanovic told me that he feels his ma purpose now is to te other artists on how to pare back the excs that he himself partially spired. He ntourg only spargly the days, and never, he told me, on very pale sk. Earlier this year, he tght a group of stunts a small workshop Chelsea. “My goal was to get them there and see the type of work that they’re dog and then help them to sort of elevate a ltle b,” he said. “And I lerally, you know, I went one by one to all the stunts, like, ‘No, don’t ntour her nose. No, don’t ntour her ch.’ I probably redid nety per cent of the eyebrows.” Makp n be a form of personal exprsn, but, for a profsnal makp artist, one of the allur of the job is the abily to have total ntrol—over how a person looks and over products that require precise implementatn. What bothered Dedivanovic most about watchg the ntourg trend explo, he told me, was that “took on a life of s own”—one that he uld not nta.</p><p class="paywall">In November of last year, Dedivanovic accepted the Artistic Achievement Award at the send annual Amerin Influencer Awards, Los Angel. Wt, drsed a srlet Dr gown wh a high neck, prented him wh the prize. “We’ve worked together for eleven years,” she said. “Eleven years of fights. You guys, we fight like, you don’t even unrstand, we fight like brother and sister. But he’s created some of my most magil memori, and really, I believe, ma me who I am today.”</p><div data-attr-viewport-monor="le-recirc" class="le-recirc-wrapper le-recirc-observer-target-1 viewport-monor-anchor"></div><p class="paywall">In his speech, Dedivanovic me out public, llg himself “a proud gay man.” He said that, the summer of 2018, he had purchased a plot of land ral Montenegro, where his father was born. “But I n’t build the home that my father dreams of,” he said, weepg openly, “bee I still feel ashamed when I set foot on that land.” The revelatn might have seemed a relic of another time—but, the followg month, Dedivanovic told me that had changed everythg. “I was always ashamed,” he said, as we sat his office space midtown. “In my md, I was a prison.” He no longer wanted a nose job. “I love my nose right now—I would never change ,” he said. “And I would go naked right now, hontly, the middle of the street, and not give a sh. My life has opened up. Every block that I had built, every fense mechanism that I’ve built om the age of two or three, has jt one by one been g down.” His sister had given him a pumpk pie, and he offered me a slice. “I eat pie now,” he said.</p><p class="paywall">He was also ready to realize a dream that he had been harborg for two s: to lnch a makp le of his own. While some have suggted that the bety market is so saturated that even a major name like Dedivanovic’s uld have trouble drawg ctomers, he explaed to me that what would make his le stand out was his almost manial attentn to tail. Dedivanovic had spent years ttg and refg products. Most laboratori allow the brands they work wh to make three tweaks on a product before is manufactured. Dedivanovic told me that he had far exceed that number, often askg for dozens of tweaks.</p><div class="Contaer-bkChBi byNLHx"></div><p class="paywall">The packagg for his brand, Makp by Mar, had been falized when, March, New York Cy went on lockdown. Overnight, Dedivanovic, who liv on the Upper East Si, found himself whout an e. He ncelled his celebry bookgs and scuttled the remag Masterclass ssns on the lendar. The dtry was chaos. It seemed ludicro to pastakgly dab on ncealer that would be vered by a mask. Still, he believed that there was a need for a le that would enable bety enthiasts to do their fac like profsnals. When thgs are chaotic, orr and rual bee even more ccial. “I’m creatg a legacy brand,” he told me. “Every product is gog to help people out there to fix thgs and to clean thgs up.”</p><p class="has-dropp has-dropp__lead-standard-headg paywall">The Masterclass is n by Dedivanovic’s olr sister Mara, his Diana Benez, and another ’s wife, Ga Dedivani. On a swelterg day last summer, Dedivanovic met them at the Bronx home of his parents, to discs an upg class Chigo. The hoe, which is ranch style, a suburban neighborhood lled Country Club, smelled of potpourri and ied ssag. Lula, Dedivanovic’s seventy-three-year-old mother, a pete woman wh a chtnut bob, had set out a full Albanian buffet, cludg a bowl of boiled beets and a tray of pickled bbage.</p><p class="paywall">In the dg room, Mara, a forty-year-old former nurse, wh straight ash-blond hair and wire-amed glass, sat at the head of a cherrywood table a black rdigan, takg not on a laptop. Dedivanovic sat across om her a whe T-shirt and baggy black athletic shorts, strokg the ty skull of a Chihuahua perched on his lap and worryg about the qualy of the projector at Chigo’s Victory Garns Theatre. Next to Mara sat the Masterclass’s social-media manager, Bana Beckovic, who is not related to Dedivanovic (although, he told me later, “she is also Albanian”). Beckovic was the only person at the table wearg the type of heavy makp, cludg false eyelash, that evoked Wt’s. In the livg room, Dedivanovic’s father, Tom, a tall, gff man wh a woolly mtache, sat on the uch watchg Fox News.</p><p class="paywall">Lula took a seat next to Dedivanovic. “Mar is the bt child,” she said, beamg. “The <em>bt</em> one.” Lula grew up a shepherdg fay a mounta village lled Tuzi, Montenegro, a ty untry wedged between Serbia and Albania. She did not go to school. She knew of Tom, who worked as a mail rrier, through a . She saw him when he me to ask her father for her hand marriage, she explaed, and “maybe one other time, church.” The next time she saw him was on their weddg day. The Dedivanovics emigrated 1974. Tom eventually found work as the supertennt of an apartment buildg the Bronx, where he, Lula, and their three children—Mar is the youngt—occupied a small apartment. When Mar was three years old, Lula went to work as a cleaner Manhattan, lavish Upper East Si hom and at the rporate headquarters of the smetics nglomerate L’Oréal. Lula didn’t wear makp—she still don’t—but she often brought ee products home om work for her two dghters.</p><p class="paywall">Dedivanovic remembers an early attractn to the L’Oréal swag. “I would see a product the bathroom or somewhere the hoe when I was alone, and I would pick up and feel ,” he said. “I wouldn’t have dared to touch my face wh , but I fely swatched and touched and felt them.” When he was elementary school, he often asked his father to drive him north of the Bronx to see “the betiful garns Wtchter,” which he liked for their symmetry. “My dad wasn’t really fond of ,” he said. Dedivanovic was twelve when he got his first job, baggg groceri. His next job was at the Bronx Zoo, where he sold pretzels and was later promoted to manager of the hot-dog stand. He then began bg tabl on the weekends at a red-sce rtrant Ltle Italy. In 2000, when he was seventeen, he and his mother walked past the tri-level Sephora flagship store, on Fifty-first Street and Fifth Avenue. The French multatnal bety cha, whose black-and-whe striped exterr rembl a travellg-rnival tent, had opened s first outlets Manhattan the year before. It was a novelty ncept: half partment store, half profsnal supply bet.</p><p class="paywall">That day, Dedivanovic applied to bee a Sephora “st member.” (Sephora’s termology has an operatic qualy: the store is known as “the stage,” the shelv are lled “gondolas.”) He got a job the agrance partment of the Neteenth Street store. Cast members at the time wore a sgle black glove; female employe had to wear red lipstick. Dedivanovic bleached his hair and got a fake I.D. so that he uld go to downtown clubs like Limelight and the Roxy wh his new -workers. Kara Capone, who now works product velopment for smetics pani cludg Estée Lr and Revlon, worked makp—what Sephora lls the “lor partment.” Dedivanovic, Capone relled, was “this slick, skny blond kid who kd of looked like Leonardo DiCapr, but super nice, you know?” She ntued, “Slowly, I uld see makp was pullg him . Always, when we had a shortage of staff on the floor, he was very exced and willg to help the ctomers that were lookg for the foundatn.”</p></div></div></div><div class="GridItem-buujkM fVLMby grid--em grid-layout__asi"><asi class="PersistentAsiWrapper-VGrR daRVRt persistent-asi" style="posn:absolute;top:to;height:to" data-ttid="PersistentAsiWrapper"><div class="StickyBoxWrapper-jfYB jxBcTH sticky-box"><div class="StickyBoxPrimary-dzWDWL cdhYoN sticky-box__primary"><div class="AdWrapper-dQtivb fZrssQ ad ad--rail"><div class="ad__slot ad__slot--rail" data-no-id="1uz3"></div></div><div class="ConsumerMarketgUnThemedWrapper-iUTMTf jssHut nsumer-marketg-un nsumer-marketg-un--display-rail" role="prentatn" aria-hidn="te"><div class="nsumer-marketg-un__slot nsumer-marketg-un__slot--display-rail"></div><div class="journey-un"></div></div></div><div class="StickyBoxPlaceholr-grPmrg dxAvXx"></div></div></asi></div></div><div class="RowWrapper-UmqTg HEhan full-bleed-ad row-mid-ntent-ad"><div class="StickyMidContentAdWrapper-fSBzwl drzyIa ad-stickymidntent"><div class="AdWrapper-dQtivb fZrssQ ad ad--mid-ntent should-hold-space"><div class="ad__slot ad__slot--mid-ntent" data-no-id="uuccue"></div></div></div></div><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK kHBDeH grid grid-margs grid-ems-2 ArticlePageChunksGrid-hfxa bjczjj grid-layout--adrail narrow wi-adrail"><div class="GridItem-buujkM stRKV grid--em grid-layout__ntent"><div class="BodyWrapper-kufPGa bDyAMU body body__ntaer article__body" data-journey-hook="client-ntent" data-ttid="BodyWrapper"><div class="body__ner-ntaer"><p class="paywall">Dedivanovic brought home smetics sampl om work and stashed them a Nike shoebox unr his bed. One day, his olst sister, Vicky, showed the box to his mother, and the rult was a fay argument. “I was unhappy,” Lula said. “Bee we don’t know nothg about makp. Not those days. I said, ‘No, honey, you have to do somethg. You have to fish school.’ ” Dedivanovic ran away om home, stayg Stuyvant Town, at the apartment of a iend he had ma while hangg around the rtrant Cafeteria, Chelsea. When he returned to the Bronx, two weeks later, he shoved the shoebox back unr his bed, and his parents did not mentn aga.</p><div data-attr-viewport-monor="le-recirc" class="le-recirc-wrapper le-recirc-observer-target-2 viewport-monor-anchor"></div><p class="paywall">Dedivanovic’s first -store makeover on a Sephora shopper took almost three hours. “I ed this pearly-whe eyhadow,” he relled recently. “And I remember my boss said, ‘Mar, ’s betiful, but took too long.’ ” Later, after transferrg to the lor partment at the flagship lotn, Dedivanovic was reced by a reprentative for Lorac, a smetics le found 1995 by the makp artist Carol Shaw, whose clients clud Nile Kidman, Cdy Crawford, and Debra Msg. He beme a kd of travellg salman for the brand, visg Sephoras all over Manhattan to ph rosewood lip lers and tawny blh.</p><p class="paywall">Dedivanovic’s makp reer outsi Sephora began 2001, when he assisted several tablished makp artists, cludg Billy B., Isabel Perez, and Kabi Starshe, who worked on “Sex and the Cy” and created the eccentric club-kid looks (Kiss-que whe greasepat, spdly spir lash, overdrawn, clownish lips) that the 2003 film “Party Monster” ma famo. In the meantime, Dedivanovic gathered his iends his apartment to take “tt shots” for his portfol. In 2007, he land a part-time job dog touch-ups for the on-air talent at Fox News.</p><p class="paywall">The female anchors on Fox wanted to look battle-ready yet feme, wh cheekbon that “popped” on televisn. Dedivanovic turned to a style of ntourg, which he lled his “glam look,” that requir a great al of blendg and buffg. He gaed a reputatn around the Fox News buildg for makg women look lacquered and priste. Julie Banras, who was then the host of “Fox Report Weekend,” told me, “The first time he did my makp, people thought I’d had a nose job. People thought that my cheeks were more sunken, that I had lost weight.”</p><p class="paywall">Dedivanovic met Wt 2008, on a shoot for the ver of the Hamptons life-style publitn <em>Social Life.</em> She had grown up the shadow of the <a href=">O. J. Simpson</a> trial; her father, the attorney Robert Kardashian, had been a longtime iend of Simpson’s, and her mother, Kris Jenner, had been a iend of Nile Brown’s. The realy show “Keepg Up wh the Kardashians” had débuted on E! the year before. “I don’t really know how to expla ,” Wt relled. “I jt me alive when Mar did my makp.” Immediately after the shoot, she asked Dedivanovic to walk wh her through Henri Benl to buy every product he’d ed. In the next year, Dedivanovic did her makp a seri of three fns vios lled “F Your Jeans by Friday,” which she did abdomal cnch a latex bodysu and silver hoop earrgs. Wt also ntued to hire him for photo shoots and prs junkets New York and Los Angel.</p><p class="paywall">Dedivanovic often tells the story of how, when he started dog Wt’s makp, his bookg agent told him that, if he ever wanted to work on a <em>Vogue</em> ver, he need to cut ti wh her. “I get ,” he told me. “At this time—and we’re talkg eleven years ago—a realy star was not a known thg. They jt knew Paris Hilton, that was .” He and his agent parted ways, and he kept workg wh Wt. He went on to do her makp for six <em>Vogue</em> vers, cludg one which she posed a cherry-red helmet, her lips glassy crimson. He was also the head artist for Wt’s weddg to the rapper Kanye Wt, 2014, which took place over several days at Versaill and at an Italian stle once owned by the Medici fay.</p><p class="paywall">As Wt broadst her life, she documented and promoted the people rponsible for her image, such as her longtime hair stylist, Chris Appleton, and her brow expert, Anastasia Soare. In 2009, she suggted that she and Dedivanovic film a YouTube vio together. In , he re-created the bistti-hued maquillage he had ed on her for a recent ver of <em>Vegas</em> magaze. In the first moments of the vio, Dedivanovic, wh the gelled, spiky hair of a boy-band tenor, looks jtery, but he soon fds his rhythm, affectg a profsorial tone. He grabs a hot-pk ovoid sponge. “This is lled a Betyblenr,” he says, holdg the sponge like a science teacher holdg up an owl pellet. “And you n get at plac like Ricky’s or Alne, New York. You basilly wet , and you squeeze , and be fluffy, and jt really prs the makp and blends betifully.”</p><figure class="AssetEmbedWrapper-eVDQiB byBkf asset-embed"><div class="AssetEmbedAssetContaer-eJxoAx dBHGoQ asset-embed__asset-ntaer"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW kKwZhx rponsive-asset AssetEmbedRponsiveAsset-cXBNxi eCxVQK asset-embed__rponsive-asset"><div data-attr-viewport-monor="" class="RponsiveCartoonWrapper-iTMMjI eXTYsS rponsive-rtoon AssetEmbedRponsiveAsset-cXBNxi eCxVQK asset-embed__rponsive-asset viewport-monor-anchor"><a class="external-lk rponsive-rtoon__image-lk" data-event-click="{"element":"ExternalLk","outgogURL":"" href=" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa RponsiveCartoonImage-hzNqyc ikeCcH rponsive-rtoon__image rponsive-image"><noscript><img alt="A hamster ns on a hamster wheel ma out of a tamboure." class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src=" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w, 960w, 1280w, 1600w" siz="100vw"/></noscript></picture></a><div class="CaptnWrapper-jSZdqE gdZTpI ptn RponsiveCartoonCaptn-dokfdF hJgaLQ rponsive-rtoon__ptn"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ CaptnText-bHjzlu iUEiRd hWyo bsWloa ptn__text">“I need mic when I n.”</span></div><div class="CaptnWrapper-jSZdqE iTuhkZ ptn RponsiveCartoonCred-bKlQqO faLAFb rponsive-rtoon__cred"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ CaptnCred-ejegDm iUEiRd iicloT bmQtfn ptn__cred">Cartoon by Jeremy Nguyen</span></div><div class="RponsiveCartoonCTA-eiqqMB iDCQRs"><div class="RponsiveCartoonCTAWrapper-CYIqa iTbFtf"><div class="RponsiveCartoonLkButtonWrapper-hqDAJK eSEhbj"><button aria-label="Copy lk to rtoon" class="BaseButton-bLlsy ButtonWrapper-xCepQ bqVKKv YsOBB button button--primary-pair RponsiveCartoonInButton-hBCBMq lpsjql" data-event-click="{"element":"Button"}" data-ttid="Button" type="button"><span class="ButtonLabel-cjAuJN bBWXSg button__label">Copy lk to rtoon</span><div 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10.0365 18.4477 10.0365 19ZM11.0365 19C11.0365 20.1046 10.1411 21 9.03652 21C7.93195 21 7.03652 20.1046 7.03652 19C7.03652 17.8954 7.93195 17 9.03652 17C10.1411 17 11.0365 17.8954 11.0365 19ZM18.0365 19C18.0365 19.5523 17.5888 20 17.0365 20C16.4842 20 16.0365 19.5523 16.0365 19C16.0365 18.4477 16.4842 18 17.0365 18C17.5888 18 18.0365 18.4477 18.0365 19ZM19.0365 19C19.0365 20.1046 18.1411 21 17.0365 21C15.932 21 15.0365 20.1046 15.0365 19C15.0365 17.8954 15.932 17 17.0365 17C18.1411 17 19.0365 17.8954 19.0365 19Z" fill="black"></path></g><fs><clipPath id="clip0_3732_178638"><rect width="24" height="24" fill="whe"></rect></clipPath><clipPath id="clip1_3732_178638"><rect width="24" height="24" fill="whe"></rect></clipPath></fs></svg></div></button></div></div></div></span></div></figure><p class="paywall">Shortly after the tutorial appeared on YouTube, Dedivanovic, who lived Astoria, Queens, at the time, found his MySpace and Facebook pag flood wh msag. “Makp qutns like ‘I have dark circl. What do you remend?’ Or ‘My highlighter ns. What n I do?’ ” He took to spendg hours of every day answerg the qutns, and disvered that he had an aptu for tn. In 2010, he briefly moved to Los Angel to be closer to Wt, and there he lnched an early versn of the Masterclass, which he lled the Workshop. He did a send, siar urse New York. Lula ma chicken and Albanian bread to serve as a buffet. The class grew to a full-time bs, sellg out theatr Miami, Sydney, London, and Dubai. His largt class, at the Palace of Congrs Tirana, Albania, had more than two thoand stunts.</p></div></div></div><div class="GridItem-buujkM fVLMby grid--em grid-layout__asi"><div class="StickyBoxWrapper-jfYB jxBcTH sticky-box"><div class="StickyBoxPrimary-dzWDWL cdhYoN sticky-box__primary"></div><div class="StickyBoxPlaceholr-grPmrg dxAvXx"></div></div></div></div><div class="RowWrapper-UmqTg HEhan full-bleed-ad row-mid-ntent-ad"><div class="StickyMidContentAdWrapper-fSBzwl drzyIa ad-stickymidntent"><div class="AdWrapper-dQtivb fZrssQ ad ad--mid-ntent should-hold-space"><div class="ad__slot ad__slot--mid-ntent" data-no-id="qqpmij"></div></div></div></div><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK kHBDeH grid grid-margs grid-ems-2 ArticlePageChunksGrid-hfxa bjczjj grid-layout--adrail narrow wi-adrail"><div class="GridItem-buujkM stRKV grid--em grid-layout__ntent"><div class="BodyWrapper-kufPGa bDyAMU body body__ntaer article__body" data-journey-hook="client-ntent" data-ttid="BodyWrapper"><div class="body__ner-ntaer"><p class="paywall">In his early urs, Dedivanovic tght the method that he ed on Wt when they began workg together, startg wh thick, Nutella-lored strip across the cheeks. In the years sce, he has strsed that this exaggerated applitn should be rerved for formal events. For the daytime, he prefers a subtler, sun-kissed glow—a ceptively “natural” effect that tak more than a dozen products and at least an hour to achieve. Still, at a Masterclass Chigo last Augt, which began before ne the morng, I noticed that most atten had shy blowouts and were wearg high-drama looks, cludg false eyelash.</p><div data-attr-viewport-monor="le-recirc" class="le-recirc-wrapper le-recirc-observer-target-3 viewport-monor-anchor"></div><p class="paywall">When Dedivanovic teach, he works offstage, the wgs, while a meraman films his hands, beamg the feed to a giant high-fn screen. This way, he n stand close to a large table, visible to the dience, vered wh unr-eye ncealers every sha, lipsticks smooshed to clear tackle box, stacks of shearlg-soft powr puffs, breath mts, and Wet On baby wip. The Masterclass follows an unual Socratic format: stunts are enuraged to shout out their qutns om their seats. Dedivanovic answers, g a headset microphone, a mmerizg stream-of-nscns monologue. “I’m gog to e a lot of makp, a shload of products,” he said to the packed room the day I attend. “But pay attentn to my layerg and blendg. You are gog to see the end that, once the makp is done, even though I’ve ed so much product and so many techniqu on this mol’s face, person she’s gog to look softer, more feme, not timidatg. Very doll-like.” The woman stg next to me scribbled the word “doll” her notebook and circled .</p><p class="paywall">He began the class by manicurg the mol’s eyebrows. The trick for gettg the brows to stay put, he said, is to e the latex adhive Pros-Ai. A few members of the dience gasped. “This glue is very strong,” he said. “I don’t want you to all go out and buy this if you’re not ed to , bee will stay on your hands for days.”</p><p class="paywall">Around hour three, he started applyg eyeler. “Do you want me to e brown or black?” he asked. Several people the crowd yelled out, “Brown!”</p><p class="paywall">“Oh, wow, why?” Dedivanovic said.</p><p class="paywall">“Bee ’s softer!” one woman yelled om the back of the theatre.</p><p class="paywall">“You guys need to stop actg like you’re not all drag queens,” Dedivanovic teased; for all his emphasis on rtrat, he is aware that somethg else ma him famo. “I know what you guys wear, I know how you wear your makp. You guys want to act all chic and natural but . . .”</p><p class="paywall">Cri of “Black!” started to e om var rners of the room.</p><p class="paywall">Dedivanovic lghed. “You see how the tth out?” he said.</p><p class="has-dropp has-dropp__lead-standard-headg paywall">In the years sce Dedivanovic started dog Wt’s makp, <a href=">fluencers</a> have bee some of the most powerful people the bety bs. Zoella Sugg, a Brish “hler”—a term ed to scribe people who show off their purchas vios—has more than eleven ln subscribers on YouTube. Jefee Star, a rabow-haired electro-pop mician, was a fixture on MySpace before he migrated to YouTube, where he now has more than seventeen ln subscribers; sce 2014, he has had his own le of Day-Glo smetics. Huda Kattan, an Iraqi-Amerin om Oklahoma, started her bety empire wh a WordPrs blog 2010; she now has more than forty-seven ln followers on Instagram. She also has her own gondola at Sephora, and, 2017, <em>Time</em> named her one of s “25 Most Influential People on the Inter.” On TikTok, an even younger crop of stars has emerged, wh their own hyper-specific skills: ethereal raver pastels spired by the HBO show “Euphoria,” neon cut creas, splay smetics, makp you n apply to your character the popular Ntendo vio game Animal Crossg. Jt this summer, a group of TikTok-famo bety fluencers, cludg La Demi and Cole Carrigan, cid to move to a Beverly Hills mansn they ll the Glam Hoe, om which they will broadst primpg ntent around the clock.</p><p class="paywall">As the Inter has opened up new avenu of experimentatn and tn, smetics have ballooned to a multibilln-dollar bs. The makp-le “drop” is ak to the release of a limed-edn sneaker or a pop album. When <a href=">Rihanna</a> released her le, Fenty Bety, Sephora stor, 2017, the brand pulled more than a hundred ln dollars ls than forty days. KKW Bety, Wt’s own brand, which lnched 2017 as well, sold $14.4 ln ntour ks ls than three hours. Influencers get on the actn, too, releasg regular “llaboratns” wh brands cludg Anastasia Beverly Hills and Morphe. Sephora remas a valuable showroom for products, but newer, direct-to-nsumer brands, like the mimalist le Glossier, have also flourished.</p><div data-attr-viewport-monor="le-recirc" class="le-recirc-wrapper le-recirc-observer-target-4 viewport-monor-anchor"></div><p class="paywall">Dedivanovic claims not to be petn wh any other brand, but a stroll through Sephora on a drizzly afternoon last October told a slightly different story. As he walked past a gltery, highly pigmented eyhadow palette, he took a swipe of an acid-green lor wh his fger and wrkled his nose. He lgered over the Nars gondola, llg François Nars, a legendary makp artist who lnched his brand 1994, an spiratn. Dedivanovic is most drawn to product l veloped by other succsful makp artists: Troy Surratt, <a href=">Pat McGrath</a>, Lra Mercier, Bobbi Brown. In late 2019, he hired Alicia Valencia, a bety executive, to serve as his global print. Valencia had overseen the global expansn of McGrath’s and Brown’s l, and worked at Estée Lr for twenty-three years. She told me, “Mar is, to me, this generatn’s Bobbi Brown. It’s, like, y, he uld glam up so much more than Bobbi did, but, I mean, the realy is that he do thgs a way where ’s easy to unrstand, and there’s a <em>why</em> to every product and technique.”</p><p class="paywall">In December, Dedivanovic released a technil bsh llectn wh Sephora; was, a reprentative told me, the fastt-sellg llaboratn the store’s history. What Dedivanovic is really sellg, perhaps, is his proximy to celebri and the tst they put him. The new bety fluencers, by ntrast, don’t need to touch stars’ fac; they are the stars. The hugely succsful twenty-one-year-old YouTuber Jam Charl, who, at seventeen, beme the first male face of CoverGirl, mak elaborate vios for his sixteen ln subscribers, but, as he told me, he is neher a makp artist nor a profsnal teacher. “What I do is make entertament ntent that happens to be about the bety topic,” he said. He admir Dedivanovic, he hastened to add: “I thk ’s always important to, like, rpect your elrs.”</p><p class="paywall">The bety-fluencer world is rife wh cliqu and fds, sndals and thronements. Dedivanovic has, for the most part, risted such drama. He refed to put his Masterclass onle, even as the panmic wiped out his live-event revenue; he was wag for a way to stream that uld tch the micro-movements of his bsh. He had never ed himself as a mol until quarante pelled him to tt out his product le on his own face. As he sists to his stunts, is ntrol and nsistency, not gimmickry, that make for a staable smetics reer. He opens every Masterclass by tellg atten that, above all, he wants them to be able to make money dog timels, glamoro makp for weddgs or quceañeras. He also warns them that took him two s to perfect what he is about to do. “I tell you that,” he says, “so you don’t give up on your dream, or on yourselv.”</p><p class="paywall">There are fewer weddgs happeng durg the panmic. And yet, as Dedivanovic put , “we all have more time now.” There is a savvs to his bs mol, which reli on the language of tn and mastery. Time-tensive, absorbg hobbi—sourdough bakg, lligraphy—give everyone what he lled an “stant h of dopame.” It was the playful, addictive si of makp that Dedivanovic learned om Sephora, where amatrs were given the opportuny to feel like profsnals. “They ed to have this gondola at Neteenth and Fifth, right the ont of the store,” he told me last fall, when we were walkg through the Sephora near his apartment. He shut his ey, rellg the moment when he felt he had bee an artist. “It was like a rabow of lipstick. I mean, yellow, green, blue, any lor you n image. And that was the area where a woman asked me to help her choose a lipstick.” He had selected a “reddish sha” for the ctomer, who tried on and told him she loved . “That was the first time I thought, I n actually do this,” he said, his voice breakg. “It was like an epiphany: This is . This is what I want to do.”</p><p class="paywall">A moment later, several salpeople—the days known as “bety advisers”—nervoly approached Dedivanovic to ask for selfi. One young bte, wh a bright streak of magenta eyeler nng across her lids, said, “I know you’re om the Bronx, and your parents are immigrants, and you really didn’t have much when you first started.” She took a breath. “I n relate to that. My parents are om Colombia, and I was born on Long Island.”</p><p class="paywall">“Y!” Dedivanovic said, noddg along emphatilly. She told him that she planned to work for ee, dog makp at children’s hospals.</p><p class="paywall">“I worked for ee for many years myself,” Dedivanovic said. “You have to take the job you have here and e to your benef. This will make you a stronger person, a stronger artist, a stronger woman.”</p><p class="paywall">Another employee, wh a slicked-back ponytail and unrstated makp a sandy sha, tapped Dedivanovic on the shoulr. “Is really you?” she asked. He nodd, starg at her face. “How did you put together your look?” he asked.</p><div data-attr-viewport-monor="le-recirc" class="le-recirc-wrapper le-recirc-observer-target-5 viewport-monor-anchor"></div><p class="paywall">“The are three-dollar lash,” she said, gigglg. Later, as the woman walked away, he pursed his lips and softly haled, a small gture of light.</p><p class="paywall">“Her look was very edorial her own ltle way,” he said. “Like, she’s a glam girl, wh full verage on. But she did a way which is almost remiscent of how I like , where she left a lot of elements out. No ler, no shadow.” He looked sudnly revigorated. “I love . That’s what gets me exced.” ♦</p><p class="paywall">An earlier versn of this article misstated the name of a theatre Chigo.</p></div></div></div><div class="GridItem-buujkM fVLMby grid--em grid-layout__asi"><div class="StickyBoxWrapper-jfYB jxBcTH sticky-box"><div class="StickyBoxPrimary-dzWDWL cdhYoN sticky-box__primary"><div class="AdWrapper-dQtivb fZrssQ ad ad--rail"><div class="ad__slot ad__slot--rail" data-no-id="sw9l1"></div></div><div class="ConsumerMarketgUnThemedWrapper-iUTMTf jssHut nsumer-marketg-un nsumer-marketg-un--display-rail" role="prentatn" aria-hidn="te"><div class="nsumer-marketg-un__slot nsumer-marketg-un__slot--display-rail"></div><div class="journey-un"></div></div></div><div class="StickyBoxPlaceholr-grPmrg dxAvXx"></div></div></div></div></div><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK kHBDeH grid grid-margs grid-ems-2 PaywallInleBarrierWhWrapperGrid-fyrGfS kLQIUk grid-layout--adrail narrow wi-adrail"><div class="GridItem-buujkM stRKV grid--em grid-layout__ntent"><div class="body body__le-barrier article__body"><div class="ntaer ntaer--body"><div class="ntaer--body-ner"><asi class="PaywallInleBarrierWrapper-iBnuqk lfXXa-D" data-ttid="PaywallInleBarrierWrapper"><div class="ConsumerMarketgUnThemedWrapper-iUTMTf jssHut nsumer-marketg-un nsumer-marketg-un--paywall-le-barrier" role="prentatn" aria-live="pole" aria-hidn="te"><div class="nsumer-marketg-un__slot nsumer-marketg-un__slot--paywall-le-barrier"></div><div class="journey-un"></div></div></asi></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK kHBDeH grid grid-margs grid-ems-2 ContentWrapperGrid-fvkmBv brYtrA grid-layout--adrail narrow wi-adrail"><div class="GridItem-buujkM stRKV grid--em grid-layout__ntent"><div class="body body__ntaer"><div class="ntaer ntaer--body"><div class="ntaer--body-ner"></div></div></div></div></div></div></article><div class="ContentFooterWrapper-jVNdRG dTJkpP ArticlePageContentFooterGrid-ccsXYy eMZRHU article-body__footer"><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK kHBDeH grid grid-margs grid-ems-2 grid-layout--adrail narrow wi-adrail"><div class="GridItem-buujkM stRKV grid--em grid-layout__ntent"><footer class="ContentFooterMagazeDisclaimer-gzKAqo iZIuUU" data-ttid="MagazeDisclaimerWrapper">Published the prt edn of the <a href="/magaze/2020/09/07" data-reactroot="">September 7, 2020</a>, issue, wh the headle “Back to School.”</footer></div></div><div class="RowWrapper-UmqTg HEhan"><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK kHBDeH grid grid-margs grid-ems-2 grid-layout--adrail narrow wi-adrail"><div class="GridItem-buujkM stRKV grid--em grid-layout__ntent"></div></div></div><div class="RowWrapper-UmqTg HEhan"><div class="GridWrapper-cAzTTK kHBDeH grid grid-margs grid-ems-2 grid-layout--adrail narrow wi-adrail"><div class="GridItem-buujkM stRKV grid--em grid-layout__ntent"><div class="ContributorsWrapper-eNpWFu GWFsc ntributors" data-ttid="Contributors"><div class="ContributorBWrapper-bnVHbt gMon"><div class="ContributorBAvatar-bIGTqf eMWbvj"><a href="/ntributors/rachel-syme"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW jvZaPI rponsive-asset"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa rponsive-image"><source media="(max-width: 767px)" srcSet=" 120w, 240w" siz="100vw"/><source media="(m-width: 768px)" srcSet=" 120w, 240w" siz="100vw"/><img alt="" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src="></picture></span></a></div><div class="ContributorBContent-ubQdr jZTSSi"><div class="ContributorBHear-ledood XOIEx"></div><div class="ContributorBB-fBolsO giFhKz"><a href="/ntributors/rachel-syme">Rachel Syme</a> is a staff wrer at The New Yorker. 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dqlGhv" role="button" tabx="0"><div class="SummaryItemAssetContaer-gwhFFH VOyg summary-em__asset-ntaer"><a class="SummaryItemImageLk-dshqxb USLvL summary-em__image-lk summary-em-trackg__image-lk" href=" aria-hidn="te" tabx="-1" data-ponent-type="recirc-river" data-recirc-id="em-image-2" data-recirc-pattern="summary-em" target="_self"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW kGxnNB rponsive-asset SummaryItemRponsiveAsset-hjGIGg egpoQR summary-em__image"><div data-tt="aspect-rat-ntaer" class="AspectRatContaer-bJHpJz jMoLpX"><div class="aspect-rat--overlay-ntaer"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa SummaryItemRponsiveAsset-hjGIGg egpoQR summary-em__image rponsive-image"><noscript><source media="(max-width: 767px)" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w" siz="100vw"/><source media="(m-width: 768px)" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w" siz="100vw"/><img alt="Followg the Succs of Twter for Instagram People, We Brg You Other Meta Versns of Apps You Already Have" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src="></noscript></picture></div></div></span></a></div><div class="SummaryItemContent-eiDYMl bcywvc summary-em__ntent"><div class="RubricWrapper-dKmCNX kImuKS bric bric--disvery SummaryItemRubric-dguGKN fYiFyD summary-em__bric"><span class="RubricName-fVtemz cLxcNi">Daily Shouts</span></div><a class="SummaryItemHedLk-civM cZPaWG summary-em-trackg__hed-lk summary-em__hed-lk" data-ponent-type="recirc-river" data-recirc-id="em-hed-2" data-recirc-pattern="summary-em" href=" target="_self"><div class="SummaryItemHedBase-hiFYpQ iIjKeM summary-em__hed" data-ttid="SummaryItemHed">Followg the Succs of Twter for Instagram People, We Brg You Other Meta Versns of Apps You Already Have</div></a><div class="SummaryItemAssetContaer-gwhFFH VOyg summary-em__asset-ntaer"><a class="SummaryItemImageLk-dshqxb USLvL summary-em__image-lk summary-em-trackg__image-lk" href=" aria-hidn="te" tabx="-1" data-ponent-type="recirc-river" data-recirc-id="em-image-2" data-recirc-pattern="summary-em" target="_self"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW kGxnNB rponsive-asset SummaryItemRponsiveAsset-hjGIGg egpoQR summary-em__image"><div data-tt="aspect-rat-ntaer" class="AspectRatContaer-bJHpJz jMoLpX"><div class="aspect-rat--overlay-ntaer"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa SummaryItemRponsiveAsset-hjGIGg egpoQR summary-em__image rponsive-image"><noscript><source media="(max-width: 767px)" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w" siz="100vw"/><source media="(m-width: 768px)" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w" siz="100vw"/><img alt="Followg the Succs of Twter for Instagram People, We Brg You Other Meta Versns of Apps You Already Have" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src="></noscript></picture></div></div></span></a></div><div class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ SummaryItemDek-CRfsi iUEiRd jxOIpm cPtisA summary-em__k">We’re thrilled to announce that we’re velopg a whole sue of new products that are like products you already know but signed to pture a larger dience than ever before.</div><div class="SummaryItemByleWrapper-boCfbi cuRXdL summary-em__byle-date-in"><div class="SummaryItemBaseByle-fFbXkY cgDBtc summary-em__byle"><div class="summary-em__byle__ntent"><div data-ttid="BylWrapper" class="BylWrapper-KIudk irTIfE byl"><p class="ByleWrapper-jWHrLH dSEWiO byle byl__byle" data-ttid="ByleWrapper" emProp="thor" emType="><span emProp="name" class="ByleNamWrapper-jbHncj fuDQVo"><span data-ttid="ByleName" class="ByleName-kwmrLn cYaBaU byle__name"><span class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ BylePreamble-iJolpQ iUEiRd jslZfG gnILss byle__preamble">By </span>Sleha Kamal</span></span></p></div></div></div></div></div></div><div class="SummaryItemWrapper-iwvBff ewgXAt summary-em summary-em--ARTICLE summary-em--no-in summary-em--text-align-left summary-em--layout-placement-text-below-sktop-only summary-em--layout-posn-image-right summary-em--layout-proportns-33-66 summary-em--si-by-si-align-center summary-em--si-by-si-image-right-mobile-false summary-em--standard SummaryCollectnGridSummaryItem-WColm dqlGhv" role="button" tabx="0"><div class="SummaryItemAssetContaer-gwhFFH VOyg summary-em__asset-ntaer"><a class="SummaryItemImageLk-dshqxb USLvL summary-em__image-lk summary-em-trackg__image-lk" href=" aria-hidn="te" tabx="-1" data-ponent-type="recirc-river" data-recirc-id="em-image-3" data-recirc-pattern="summary-em" target="_self"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW kGxnNB rponsive-asset SummaryItemRponsiveAsset-hjGIGg egpoQR summary-em__image"><div data-tt="aspect-rat-ntaer" class="AspectRatContaer-bJHpJz jMoLpX"><div class="aspect-rat--overlay-ntaer"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa SummaryItemRponsiveAsset-hjGIGg egpoQR summary-em__image rponsive-image"><noscript><source media="(max-width: 767px)" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w" siz="100vw"/><source media="(m-width: 768px)" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w" siz="100vw"/><img alt="We Don’t Need a New Twter" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src="></noscript></picture></div></div></span></a></div><div class="SummaryItemContent-eiDYMl bcywvc summary-em__ntent"><div class="RubricWrapper-dKmCNX kImuKS bric bric--disvery SummaryItemRubric-dguGKN fYiFyD summary-em__bric"><span class="RubricName-fVtemz cLxcNi">Cultural Comment</span></div><a class="SummaryItemHedLk-civM cZPaWG summary-em-trackg__hed-lk summary-em__hed-lk" data-ponent-type="recirc-river" data-recirc-id="em-hed-3" data-recirc-pattern="summary-em" href=" target="_self"><div class="SummaryItemHedBase-hiFYpQ iIjKeM summary-em__hed" data-ttid="SummaryItemHed">We Don’t Need a New Twter</div></a><div class="SummaryItemAssetContaer-gwhFFH VOyg summary-em__asset-ntaer"><a class="SummaryItemImageLk-dshqxb USLvL summary-em__image-lk summary-em-trackg__image-lk" href=" aria-hidn="te" tabx="-1" data-ponent-type="recirc-river" data-recirc-id="em-image-3" data-recirc-pattern="summary-em" target="_self"><span class="SpanWrapper-umhxW kGxnNB rponsive-asset SummaryItemRponsiveAsset-hjGIGg egpoQR summary-em__image"><div data-tt="aspect-rat-ntaer" class="AspectRatContaer-bJHpJz jMoLpX"><div class="aspect-rat--overlay-ntaer"><picture class="RponsiveImagePicture-cWuUZO dUOtEa SummaryItemRponsiveAsset-hjGIGg egpoQR summary-em__image rponsive-image"><noscript><source media="(max-width: 767px)" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w, 640w" siz="100vw"/><source media="(m-width: 768px)" srcSet=" 120w, 240w, 320w" siz="100vw"/><img alt="We Don’t Need a New Twter" class="RponsiveImageContaer-eybHBd fptoWY rponsive-image__image" src="></noscript></picture></div></div></span></a></div><div class="BaseWrap-sc-gjQpdd BaseText-ewhhUZ SummaryItemDek-CRfsi iUEiRd jxOIpm cPtisA summary-em__k">It’s time to move beyond the flawed ia of a global nversatn platform.</div><div class="SummaryItemByleWrapper-boCfbi cuRXdL summary-em__byle-date-in"><div class="SummaryItemBaseByle-fFbXkY cgDBtc summary-em__byle"><div 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